I have a DR80 and am having a hard time keeping my temps below 80F. I am using a mini pulsar 250 watt switchable light which is an all in one lamp with ballast built in. I also have a 5" can-fan (206 CFM) that i am using for an exhaust at the top of my tent. my can-fan is sitting on top of my tent and is pulling air out of the tent. i have my can-fan hooked up to a carbon filter which sits inside of my tent. air is being pulled through the filter and out of the tent. I thought this would help with high temps but i was wrong. I went out and purchased a 250 CFM duct booster to see if that would help. I setup the duct booster in one of the ports located at the bottom of the tent to help get air into the tent. for a fan that is rated 250CFM it sure is weak when compared to the can-fan 206CFM. am i doing something wrong here? my tent is located in my stand up shower in my bathroom. it fits nicely in there and is stealth. the ambient temps in my bathroom are around 73F while the temps in my tent get to 86F when the lights are on. i am exhausting the air back into the bathroom but leave the door to the bathroom open. the tent has passive intakes down at the bottom but if they are opened, light will get in when lights are out. i was thinking of getting another duct booster but the first one I got didnt seem to help. can anyone help me out? thanks.
Please help with ventilating a dr80
- Thread starter phernando
- Start date
The light itself gives off radiant heat which you cannot just suck out of the tent. The only real way to control the inside temp is to lower the outside temp around the tent. But dont worry too much if your temps are floating in the 80's mine are almost always mid 80's in my tent or at least he very top where my thermo is, I have not suffered any ill effects. I do keep plenty of fresh air moving through the tent though.
If you are high 80;s 90's then yes start worrying.
If you are high 80;s 90's then yes start worrying.
- Thread starter
- #3
the 206cfm can-fan that i have certainly moves alot of air. it sucks the walls of the tent in when it is on. I thought this would do a better job of keeping things cool. i would like to resolve these high temps so that i can continue to grow throughout the summer. i thought that 80F was the highest that you would want your temps to get.
do you think using both of the ports at the bottom of my tent will allow more air in to cool things off? i am currently only using one of them which has a 250CFM duct booster attached to it.
oks226
New Member
can your light be aircooled?If not, I would suggest buying a air-cooled hood and hooking your fan up to that. I have 2 all in one 400 watt lights that are cooled by a 4" vortex. The cfm rating for it is only 172 cfm and my temps don't get above 87. My hoods are sealed and connected, then connected to the vortex.
- Thread starter
- #5
oks
my light cannot be aircooled. im using a mini pulsar which does not come with a hole in it to add ducting to it. I was thinking of modifying my light by cutting out a hole in it to allow for ducting, or taking it back and replacing it with something else.
my light cannot be aircooled. im using a mini pulsar which does not come with a hole in it to add ducting to it. I was thinking of modifying my light by cutting out a hole in it to allow for ducting, or taking it back and replacing it with something else.
oks226
New Member
agreed, if you can afford it, it will make your summer that much easier.
Smokeyjoe
New Member
Yes if air cooled is an option I say do it.
I also use a tent and am running a 268cfm (roughly, I'm loaded) with a vented hood and remote ballast and a similar intake and my temps at canopy height run average 75 daytime.
Get a 400-600 with a remote ballast and air cool it you wont be sorry and it will "pay for itself" in the end.
Just my 2 cents
I also use a tent and am running a 268cfm (roughly, I'm loaded) with a vented hood and remote ballast and a similar intake and my temps at canopy height run average 75 daytime.
Get a 400-600 with a remote ballast and air cool it you wont be sorry and it will "pay for itself" in the end.
Just my 2 cents
