Quest for mold-resistant strains, Hawaii outdoor greenhouse grow

Does anyone know how low-stress training (LST) affects the roots?

I'm not an indoor grower, and I've never done LST, but it would make sense if you were using small-ish pots and trying to get a great harvest, if LST slowed down root growth or made the root ball more compact in the container, thus avoiding a root bound condition. I read today that LST makes the roots grow more laterally.

It makes sense that a smaller canopy achieved by LST would require a smaller root mass to support. Is it true?
 
Greetings Growmies,

I added day length and night length (hours). As would be expected, day length follows the solar angle. Curiously, the longest days of the year, 13.43 hours, June 14 through June 26, don't correspond to the max solar noon angle of 90°. It turns out this is because the sun angle goes beyond 90° between May 26 and July 15. In other words, 90° is straight overhead, and beyond 90° is tipping to the north. Most of the year, between July 15 and May 26, the sun angle is to the south. I have adjusted the angle when it goes beyond 90°, shown in pink, and included the June 20 solstice when the angle is at its maximum.

1735777916598.png

key:
angle=angle of the sun at solar noon; time=time of day at solar noon; day=day length in hours; night=night length in hours; *=solar noon angle at 90°; *=max solar noon at solstice; *=solar noon angle at its lowest
 
The middle of the "solar summer" is June 20, as opposed to the middle of the "astrological summer" which is August 6.

Who cares about the astrological summer?!!

For my whole life up until now, I've been in the dark about solar summer! Gregorian calendar programming! The pagans called the summer solstice "midsummer".
 
"The solstices (as well as the equinoxes) mark the middle of the seasons in East Asian calendars."
 
Big news!

The China refractometer aka Brix-O-Meter has arrived!

Looks like a fairly well-built unit, nice and solid. Needs to be calibrated...

ATC_refractometer.jpg


The "User Mannual" is so instructive... at our house we get a big kick out of China instructions... sometimes we laugh our heads off uncontrollably, for example over the hilarious instructions that came with the ultraviolet light bug zapper unit (which we never used by the way)...

user_manual2.jpg

... interesting way to spell "manual", but I like it!

user_manual1.jpg

... hmm, "about" 68°? shouldn't it be at my normal outdoor daytime ambient temperature? I mean, where the heck am I gonna find an air conditioned room set on 68°F?!! Maybe the post office!!

user_manual3.jpg

... shoots, now I'll need to remove all the corrosive gas out of my kitchen. And about those "connection part", hmm... colliding with what? Anyway, I am not going to dropping the thing.🤣

Now I am told by someone on the forum here (to remain nameless) that I will tear my hair out trying to figure out how to get a drop of liquid out of a cannabis leaf. ...Something about a pair of pliers... I'll figure it out. 😆
 
It's always surprised me that they don't pay someone to translate the instructions into normal english. :rolleyes:

And, yes, getting of drop of the almost non-existant sap is a challenge. :laughtwo:
 
Sweet! and yes, colliding loose parts while shaking intensely during exposure to corrosive gases, especially corrosive kitchen gases, may not give you a stellar outcome in an air conditioned room unless it's about 68 degrees!🤣

But I mean come on, we all knew that right🤣
 
Azimuth said:
It's always surprised me that they don't pay someone to translate the instructions into normal english. :rolleyes:

And, yes, getting of drop of the almost non-existant sap is a challenge. :laughtwo:
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What? when I break a stem the sap spats in my eyes..
Do you have garlic press? just bunch a leaf up in there and press no? or is that too muddled?
 
Gee64 said:
Sweet! and yes, colliding loose parts while shaking intensely during exposure to corrosive gases, especially corrosive kitchen gases, may not give you a stellar outcome in an air conditioned room unless it's about 68 degrees!🤣

But I mean come on, we all knew that right🤣
Click to expand...
🤣
 
Fenderbender said:
What? when I break a stem the sap spats in my eyes..
Do you have garlic press? just bunch a leaf up in there and press no? or is that too muddled?
Click to expand...
This is too easy.
 
Fenderbender said:
What? when I break a stem the sap spats in my eyes..
Do you have garlic press? just bunch a leaf up in there and press no? or is that too muddled?
Click to expand...
I haven't tried a garlic press yet. But I may...
 
Greetings Growmies and SIPsters!

Here's some pics from Saturday...

Happy clones in the veg house, ready for planting. Some of these are just phenos that I'm saving, so they'll get re-cloned.
clones.jpg


Chunky loves to hang out in the flower house 🐈‍⬛. Foreground is CBD #18 indica pheno. Back left is Sweet Critical CBD. Back right is Blueberry. [EDIT: All in 5 gal SIP buckets.] Both the Sweet Critical and Blueberry are struggling with leaf spot mold, and they seem to be very root bound, since the reservoirs are not filling properly. The CBD #18 is a little indica plant, and she is well foliated and seems not root bound. My theory is that indica dominant plants do a lot better in the 5 gal SIPs at this time of year (low sun) than sativa/indica hybrids. This was certainly the case with CBD #9, which is also an indica, grows larger than the #18, and formed a beautiful Christmas tree shape in the SIP.
flower1.jpg


The #18 pheno of Cherry Blossom CBD in my Triforce SIP. She's a small indica plant... should do OK in the SIP. Just transferred to flower. I'll try to check brix on this one soon.
cbd18-3.jpg


CBD #18
cbd18-1.jpg


CBD #18
cbd18-2.jpg


:ciao:
 
Greetings,

More confirmation that 5 gal SIP outdoor with LOS in winter is a dumb idea, even in Hawaii!

I ended up throwing the whole thing away... a Blueberry and a Sweet Critical CBD, end of flower. Hammered by leaf spot mold, plus premature senescence. Just junk.

The #18 CBD is hanging in there (above pics). She's very much indica dominant, whereas the other two were hybrids. She's also getting hit with the leaf spot, but resisting, and she's heavily foliated with deep green leaves. Just topped up the rez today via the fill tube, and also put a quart on the soil surface. Fed her high-N liquid fert, plus solution-grade Langbeinite (K, Mg, S), solution grade Ca, and soaked solution of seabird guano (P) and kelp powder.

All good. I'll try my SIP bucket again, probably in late spring when the sun is high, and probably indica-dominant only. Also, up-potting to the SIP early, and shorter duration vegging. In the mean time, I've got a couple 10 gal fabric pots now. Need to make 20 gal of my usual super soil. I'm not sure if I'll plant any of the young clones, though, because they are past the sweet spot in 1 gal. I'll probably just re-clone

:ciao:
 
Azimuth said:
Do you brix your plants?
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Not yet, but I'll check the CBD #18 soon. The others were pathetic. Sun angle at solar noon is still only 53°.
 
cbdhemp808 said:
Not yet, but I'll check the CBD #18 soon. The others were pathetic. Sun angle at solar noon is still only 53°.
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For me, the wicking action of an active SIP was keeping the soil too wet leading to low brix and bug issues. I would imagine a healthy plant would be better able to fight off fungus and molds as well.

So next round I'm going to try a non-wicking connector cup with the idea that it will provide a path to the water for the roots, but not do much to move water on its own.
 
Azimuth said:
For me, the wicking action of an active SIP was keeping the soil too wet leading to low brix and bug issues. I would imagine a healthy plant would be better able to fight off fungus and molds as well.

So next round I'm going to try a non-wicking connector cup with the idea that it will provide a path to the water for the roots, but not do much to move water on its own.
Click to expand...
In my mind, the primary reason to try SIP was to get the amazing performance in a small container (5 gal). Achieving that is a feeding issue, not a watering issue. Nutrient absorption in LOS requires the soil and the microbes. Nutrients in water is a hydro situation, and for that, synthetic or synthetic-like liquid ferts. So, without the magic combo, and with less-than-ideal light, SIP is a no-go for me. I'm not willing to give up LOS and my organic fert powders.

So, it's back to the pots for me. Going to 10 gal was a big breakthrough, and I got great performance in terms of the fungus/molds as compared to smaller pots. Now I'm going to improve on that by going to 10 gal fabric. ...need to make soil now!

That all said, I may still tinker with my SIP when the sun is high starting in late spring. I may try out focusing more on the high-N liquid fert, top fertigating and using the soil as a biofilter to pre-condition the fert (bacteria), and then also do what you are saying... in my case, put a barrier above the domes to restrict wicking. (EDIT: see Anthroponics)
 
cbdhemp808 said:
In my mind, the primary reason to try SIP was to get the amazing performance in a small container (5 gal). Achieving that is a feeding issue, not a watering issue. Nutrient absorption in LOS requires the soil and the microbes. Nutrients in water is a hydro situation, and for that, synthetic or synthetic-like liquid ferts. So, without the magic combo, and with less-than-ideal light, SIP is a no-go for me. I'm not willing to give up LOS and my organic fert powders.

So, it's back to the pots for me. Going to 10 gal was a big breakthrough, and I got great performance in terms of the fungus/molds as compared to smaller pots. Now I'm going to improve on that by going to 10 gal fabric. ...need to make soil now!

That all said, I may still tinker with my SIP when the sun is high starting in late spring. I may try out focusing more on the high-N liquid fert, top fertigating and using the soil as a biofilter to pre-condition the fert (bacteria), and then also do what you are saying... in my case, put a barrier above the domes to restrict wicking. (EDIT: see Anthroponics)
Click to expand...
FYI - High N crashes brix.
 
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