Slipdog01

Well-Known Member
Question on the Cure in the Jar and the rh factor of the cure. I do know a little on the Mason Jar and I am a week from putting buds in Jars. As of now on 2nd of hang, fan and in 95%dark.

rh has to do with Humidity. Drier, easier to keep your stick lit. But as thru cure and flip in the jar and burp, how do I judge it as dried properly? By feel or do you dudes have a meter of sort?

I take it regular Mason Jars with good seals will work. But thru storage do you need this?



And how does that pack adjust the rh in the Jar?
 
They make little "stick temp/humidity gauges" that fit in your jar, search internet for part in " to see what I mean. Used by the Cigar folks as similar idea but diff RH% slightly it appears that cigar folks like it slightly less than most go with.

Once RH is stable you can take meter out of jars as it will only change if you opened jar and left open for humidity in your room/outside to mingle with it.
 
You probably know most of this but I would rather tell you what you already know than than have you miss a good cure. Drying and curring are two different things. drying will make it burn easier. Curing makes it smoother and the turpin flavors come out. It decomposes then gasses off the chlorophylls. Too dry and they don't decompose. Too wet and it can mold.

As the plant hangs it will dry. When you hold the stem and apply slight pressure pushing the bud away from the stem it will pop clean off with an audible snap when dry. If the stem at the base of the bud bends it is not ready, let it hang longer. After drying fill a mason jar 1/2 to 2/3 full and seal.

Without a meter; Open the jar 15 for minutes twice a day for a week. Then once a day for a week. Then once a week for a month. Pulling samples at that point is enough to burp it.

If you use a humidity meter, when the humidity stops changing between burps it is done curing. From this point it will begin aging and if stored correctly it will continue to improve for a year or two.

Bova packs are silicate like the "do not eat" pouch in with new shoes. They hold a set amount of moisture. If humidity raises above that point it absorb the water. When humidity drops below that point it relics moisture.
 
You probably know most of this but I would rather tell you what you already know than than have you miss a good cure. Drying and curring are two different things. drying will make it burn easier. Curing makes it smoother and the turpin flavors come out. It decomposes then gasses off the chlorophylls. Too dry and they don't decompose. Too wet and it can mold.

As the plant hangs it will dry. When you hold the stem and apply slight pressure pushing the bud away from the stem it will pop clean off with an audible snap when dry. If the stem at the base of the bud bends it is not ready, let it hang longer. After drying fill a mason jar 1/2 to 2/3 full and seal.

Without a meter; Open the jar 15 for minutes twice a day for a week. Then once a day for a week. Then once a week for a month. Pulling samples at that point is enough to burp it.

If you use a humidity meter, when the humidity stops changing between burps it is done curing. From this point it will begin aging and if stored correctly it will continue to improve for a year or two.

Bova packs are silicate like the "do not eat" pouch in with new shoes. They hold a set amount of moisture. If humidity raises above that point it absorb the water. When humidity drops below that point it relics moisture.
Thank ya Much, I should be good on things now Satava, Store the jars in a dark spot for clairty?
 
@Slipdog01

Copy and pasted from another post >
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I feed right up to harvest.

The last watering is three days before chop. Up till then they were taking a gallon every two days.

Harvest is when ALL the white pistils have turned color and receded. AND the trichomes are all at least white, some amber is good.

I chop when lights normally come on, no dark period other than regular lights off.

My last crop I wet trimmed on the plant, seemed to be quite a bit faster.

Then I cut off the branches and hang in the dark. Best I could do was 45% RH and 70 degrees.

I had a staggered harvest so I built a frame and threw a tarp over it o_O

And had a 50cfm fan blowing in. Takes six to seven days for the buds to feel "crispy", I never did get the hang of the "snap the branch" thingee..

KG & GG#4 hanging.jpg


Cut the buds off the branches and loose fill a food grade container to at least 3/4's full. Anything less is too much air.

OR multiple jars, your choice :cool:

Pop in a hygrometer (less than $20 for 5 off Amazon) and check it the next day. Takes a while to get a good reading, the crispy parts will absorb moisture from the bud interiors.

Ideally it won't be over 70. If it is leave the top off the contain for a half hour, three times a day. Much over 70% is mold area and I would either paper bag it or lay it out on newspaper for a while. You will get the hang of this part, no pun intended !

It's handy to have an extra container the same size. Place on top of the original and flip. Less harsh than fluffing up the buds and gives the bottom of the container access to the burp.

When RH hits the high 60's burp the container twice a day for a couple of minutes until it reaches 58%.

Hopefully this will take at least two weeks.

Curing KG & GG.jpg


Then I vacuum seal in 1 L mason jars with a 58% Boveda pack.

Some prefer 62% but 58% works best for me to grind for joints or pipe.

The KEY to a good cure is paying attention to the RH !

Cheers
 
Store the jars in a dark spot for clairty

Yes, UV light and O2 break down THC. The curing process will use up the O2 in the jar. Store in a cool, dark place like a basement or interior closet. You want a steady cool room temperature like when aging wine. Do NOT store it in a refrigerator or freezer. Fridge causes condensation so it ages like lettuce. Frozen, trichomes easily fall off the bud. I freeze my surplus bud, trim and popcorn before making Nepalese temple ball hash.

My wifes' uncle stored an oz of Thai I gave him in his freezer door. Six months latter he tried a bud but didn't even get a buzz so he threw it all in the trash. Complained that it took for ever to scrub all that stick crap out of the bottom of the jar. I was speechless so called my wife into the room for him to tell the story again. She had plenty of words for him.

I never did get the hang of the "snap the branch" thingee..
I never could understand what they were talking bought either. They always say the branch snaps clean. It never will and that is why it makes such strong rope. Where the base of the bud attaches to the branch is where it will "snap" and pop off when fully dried. If you need scissors or and force to separate the bud from the branch, it isn't ready.
 
Where you dried it, what was the Humidity in the room? As soon as I dug out an old dehumidifier out of the basement. Humidity in the room was around 72-73%rh, hooked up that dehumidifier, set it to draw it down. Within an hour, it was58-62% rh and two hours later my 7 day hang, the buds snapped.
 
Sealed box for one plant. 3x3 and 7 foot tall. Temp controlled to 75 deg, humidity controlled at 55%. Exhaust fan turns on to change the air volume twice a day. Two small oscillating fans constantly on. Depending on the size of the plant 7-14 days latter the buds pop off with little pressure. Another 3+ weeks until the branches snap.

When the buds pop off is how I always knew it was done drying. Read on here to wait until the branches snap so I tried it. The buds were way over dried and never lost the chlorophyll smell after 4 months of cure. Turned it into hash because it was too rough to smoke as flower.

Enough people swear by the branch snap method that it must work. Personally I can not get a good dry using that indicator. !00% sure it is my misunderstanding what to look for. Maybe it is the size of the plant. I don't know. I have talked to several people that say it takes too long to get the branch to snap so it over dries for them as well.
 
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