Scarfinger68's - Soil - CFL - Aurora Indica Journal - 2013
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yuyo
Well-Known Member
whoa scar don't play around!!
been gone 2 days one cause i couldn't get to the site for some weird malware go figure,
anyway ok i went and obtained some cheap cloning powder and followed your process for the most part. a few minor variations , example i cut the top off a 2 litre soda pop bottle and use it for dome. i am gonna recheck by reading back a few pages
but a question i have sir is do you leave them under light 24/7? cause if i am not mistaken dark time is good for root development. i did try cloning before in water only and got 2 of 5 to take,during that try i let them be in the dark while i slept and was wondering if i was wrong to do so.
take care and keep up the good works
been gone 2 days one cause i couldn't get to the site for some weird malware go figure,
anyway ok i went and obtained some cheap cloning powder and followed your process for the most part. a few minor variations , example i cut the top off a 2 litre soda pop bottle and use it for dome. i am gonna recheck by reading back a few pages
but a question i have sir is do you leave them under light 24/7? cause if i am not mistaken dark time is good for root development. i did try cloning before in water only and got 2 of 5 to take,during that try i let them be in the dark while i slept and was wondering if i was wrong to do so.
take care and keep up the good works
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- #243
Scarfinger68
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I run 20 on and 4 off in my VEG room. For clones I keep them from direct light. Sometimes I place them under a mother plant. This time I just raised my lights up higher because my mother plants are pretty short after the trimming.
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- #244
Scarfinger68
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- #245
Scarfinger68
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I was surprised concerning the lack of smell and the actual smell. For one I expected them to be a lot stinkyer which may still happen closer to harvest time. The actually smell I was expecting was a more musky skunky smell. I did a little on-line research and I see a lot of grower report a lemony zest type smell during the grow but less lemony with the actual smoking of it.
Well time will tell... and we will see what I end up with
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- #246
Scarfinger68
New Member
Day 44 of Flower:
I have some yellowing which I am attributing to age of the plants. But on one plant I have some yellowing combined with brown spots and leaves cupping up and down. This is happening on the plant that has the strongest lemon zest odor. My hypothesis is that it is a slightly different phenotype and not tolerating the increased fertilizer. I check the PH run-off and it looks to be in the 6.0 range which I would say is good. PH looks the same as the other plants.
So my only remedy is to.... Flush with plain water. You should flush with 2x the size of your container for soil. I only did 1 gallon of plain water flush per plant. I also used water straight out of the sink. You probably shouldn't use chlorinated tap water if you can afford not to.
Some pictures:
This would be normal nute burn of acceptable levels in my experience
This is the lemon zest smelling plant with nute burn/problems:
Some bud shots of the above plant
For African
Group shot
Trichomes look to be mainly cloudy with some half cloudy/clear and a few clear. No ambers so far.
I am not really concerned about the brown spots considering I have had issues similar in the past and they turn out ok. Also after my defoliation experiment last run... do they really need all those fan leaves?
My harvest day is really coming at a bad time. I am going to be going out of town for a week right around day 60 of flowering. I could wait until I get back which would be around day 70. Only problem is my wife would have to water them and she doesn't have a green thumb
It will work out somehow. Until next time
I have some yellowing which I am attributing to age of the plants. But on one plant I have some yellowing combined with brown spots and leaves cupping up and down. This is happening on the plant that has the strongest lemon zest odor. My hypothesis is that it is a slightly different phenotype and not tolerating the increased fertilizer. I check the PH run-off and it looks to be in the 6.0 range which I would say is good. PH looks the same as the other plants.
So my only remedy is to.... Flush with plain water. You should flush with 2x the size of your container for soil. I only did 1 gallon of plain water flush per plant. I also used water straight out of the sink. You probably shouldn't use chlorinated tap water if you can afford not to.
Some pictures:
This would be normal nute burn of acceptable levels in my experience
This is the lemon zest smelling plant with nute burn/problems:
Some bud shots of the above plant
For African
Group shot
Trichomes look to be mainly cloudy with some half cloudy/clear and a few clear. No ambers so far.
I am not really concerned about the brown spots considering I have had issues similar in the past and they turn out ok. Also after my defoliation experiment last run... do they really need all those fan leaves?
My harvest day is really coming at a bad time. I am going to be going out of town for a week right around day 60 of flowering. I could wait until I get back which would be around day 70. Only problem is my wife would have to water them and she doesn't have a green thumb
It will work out somehow. Until next time
AfricanGrower
Well-Known Member
Haha, thanks for the the lighter pic Scar, you know I like lighter pics 
...for size comparison ofcourse!
I agree with you about not worrying about the nutrient burn this late in flower, but when will you start your pre-harvest flush? Before or after you come back?
...for size comparison ofcourse!I agree with you about not worrying about the nutrient burn this late in flower, but when will you start your pre-harvest flush? Before or after you come back?
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- #249
Scarfinger68
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I agree they do seem nitrogen deficient. You brought up molasses which I have used in the past but for some reason I haven't during this grow.
My flower ferts do have nitrogen in them so I didn't really consider a nitrogen only fertilizer this late in flower. I actually fertilized twice in a row thinking that it may help give some more nitrogen. It only made it worse... So comes the plain water flush. Sometimes less is better.
But I will rethink about the molasses
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- #250
Scarfinger68
New Member
Haha, thanks for the the lighter pic Scar, you know I like lighter pics
I agree with you about not worrying about the nutrient burn this late in flower, but when will you start your pre-harvest flush? Before or after you come back?
So somewhere from 55 to 70 days is reported for harvest time.
Well... I was originally thinking of a 60 day harvest with a 15 to 10 day plain water before harvest. But that would leave my wife to at minimum check them and take them down at 3 to 4 days (its is a lot colder now so maybe 5 days) and put them in the plastic box and then burp them once a day.... Oh boy!
It will probably be best to go 70 days to harvest so all my wife has to do is add plan water until I get back. Start plain water flush at day 60. Hope for 20% ambers. Worst case I will end up with more ambers? Which isn't a bad thing. Just more night time medicine.
I agree they do seem nitrogen deficient. You brought up molasses which I have used in the past but for some reason I haven't during this grow.
My flower ferts do have nitrogen in them so I didn't really consider a nitrogen only fertilizer this late in flower. I actually fertilized twice in a row thinking that it may help give some more nitrogen. It only made it worse... So comes the plain water flush. Sometimes less is better.
But I will rethink about the molasses
biobizzs grow, which is molasses (and smells just like soy sauce) is rated as being a 3-0-8 feed
good luck
closetorganic
New Member
Hey Scarfinger68 I would be defoliating those hit leaves to let light hit anything shaded.I think leaves like that dont rejuvinate especially this far in flower. The flushing sounds right and good enough in my book ha ha but I am thinking what about plain water here out. You know Im not pro and this is just my thought that it seems it would be hard to regreen those up in 2 weeks to then start a flush.I think they look good and mature now and your in soil. Maybe in hydro that would work ,not sure, .
I have been watering only aerated tap water with no ph adjusting on 3 plants in flower to come down soon the last 3 waterings and buds are still growing, I feel you could almost harvest before leaving at 60 days and have those killer buds like usual
I have been watering only aerated tap water with no ph adjusting on 3 plants in flower to come down soon the last 3 waterings and buds are still growing, I feel you could almost harvest before leaving at 60 days and have those killer buds like usual
closetorganic
New Member
sorry after rereading this one you thought that and figured best for the boss which is always most important in my book
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- #254
Scarfinger68
New Member
sorry after rereading this one you thought that and figured best for the boss which is always most important in my book
I could pull the leaves off. But... in my case I don't think defoliating for increased light does much. For one I am using CFL's that don't have much if any penetrating power. Also I am thinking the plant can use what ever is left in the leaves to make up for my deficiencies in knowing exactly what it needs.
In my defoliation experiment I didn't see any noticeable difference between the defoliated and non-defoliated plant.
Maybe if I was using HPS lights or LED's it would make a bigger difference.
Thanks for your thoughts
Skybound
Well-Known Member
Is super cropping the leaf stems or just bending/tying them out of the way an option?
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- #257
Scarfinger68
New Member
I will do some super cropping early in flower... maybe up to day 25ish. There is no set rule. If I had a branch stretch out all the sudden I would super crop it more for height control. The most I do for light penetration is trim up the bottom section around day 21 and sometimes tuck some fan leaves down/under out of the way.
So the main purpose of the topping and FIM'ing is to get more tops to the surface. That is the main thing I do. After that it is low management/maintenance in flower for me.
High There Scar
Wanted to stop by and personally invite you and your subscribers to my new journal
4000 Watt Top-Feed Rec Grow Cubes Cap'n Style OG Kush
Hope to see you all there
Wanted to stop by and personally invite you and your subscribers to my new journal
4000 Watt Top-Feed Rec Grow Cubes Cap'n Style OG Kush
Hope to see you all there
yuyo
Well-Known Member
4000 watts holy cow! are you growing a warehouse?!!
been fightin' flu or cold and got behind, after reading back i see you are going away a while
just wanna wish safe travels and return
one question plz how tall do you estimate the AI were when you switched to 12/12 and what are they now? i know the one took a slight lead over the others, was it a bit taller before the switch?
been fightin' flu or cold and got behind, after reading back i see you are going away a while
just wanna wish safe travels and return
one question plz how tall do you estimate the AI were when you switched to 12/12 and what are they now? i know the one took a slight lead over the others, was it a bit taller before the switch?
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- #260
Scarfinger68
New Member
I can't say positively. But looking back I would say 8 to 10 inches. The LST and topping helps control the height. Now In flower my tallest is 20 inches from the top soil. So from the floor to the top for total height would be 25 inches.
My vertical grow spaces is maximum 28 inches. So 3 inches to spare
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