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Sensi’s Eagle Bill Gets Its First Grow On 420 Mag

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Aroxol

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Moved the flowering eagle into my tent today and figured I’d ease her into some of the good lights for the next few weeks. I also had a long convo with the appropriate ppl about the soil, state of my plants, and validated some thoughts/ concerns. Good news is a) turns out I’m not quite as big of a dipshit as I felt like with soil and b) I now have a surefire approach/ methodology to be successful with SoHum in Autopots.

Where I could use help from the soil gurus, “cough @bobrown14 @Emilya “ is with a good soil for young baby plants. Today I root seeds/ clones into RW and then move to Solo cups with coco/ perlite. If I wanted to swap coco with <insert good base weak soil here>, can you point me in a good direction? Just need something very great that won’t have any risk of burning or being too hot, or has a history of coming with bugs/ eggs.
:thanks:
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019
The key is in using layers. It is a very good method to put a good super soil as the bottom third of the container while putting a more inert soil at the top. Let the plant "find" the strong stuff, and instead of burning the plants, the roots will easily adapt to what they find there. I have started many a plant in a rich (I am not going to say hot) soil such as FF Ocean Forest, and FF Happy Frog used to be considered a starter soil for developing strong roots, but if you insist on an inert lifeless soil as that top third, your local hardware/garden store will have plenty of weak potting soils for you to choose from. As far as bugs go, any commercial soil has the potential of gathering bugs, especially if it is warehoused or shipped incorrectly. No brand is immune from this and none have eliminated the problem. Your best bet as a consumer is to not buy into soils preloaded with myco and other living stuff, just go with the good organic soil, and then when you get it home, sterilize it just to be sure. 20 minutes in a 250° oven will kill all the bugs and larvae that might have made their way to your door, without harming the soil in any way.
 

Aroxol

Well-Known Member
The key is in using layers. It is a very good method to put a good super soil as the bottom third of the container while putting a more inert soil at the top. Let the plant "find" the strong stuff, and instead of burning the plants, the roots will easily adapt to what they find there. I have started many a plant in a rich (I am not going to say hot) soil such as FF Ocean Forest, and FF Happy Frog used to be considered a starter soil for developing strong roots, but if you insist on an inert lifeless soil as that top third, your local hardware/garden store will have plenty of weak potting soils for you to choose from. As far as bugs go, any commercial soil has the potential of gathering bugs, especially if it is warehoused or shipped incorrectly. No brand is immune from this and none have eliminated the problem. Your best bet as a consumer is to not buy into soils preloaded with myco and other living stuff, just go with the good organic soil, and then when you get it home, sterilize it just to be sure. 20 minutes in a 250° oven will kill all the bugs and larvae that might have made their way to your door, without harming the soil in any way.
Thanks, just so we’re on the same page the lifeless soil so to speak is only going to occur for the period of being moved to out outgrowing a solo cup, then it’s onto the good stuff.

1. Start life in RW to get throughly rooted.
2. Move to Solo cup of soil <basic hw organic based on reply>
3. Move to larger container of LOS
4. Move to even bigger AP final home of LOS
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019
a thin layer of WC is fine or adding them as a percentage to another soil, but two things happen with a thick layer of WC... first, the flow through rate stinks and you can really mess up flow through with a layer that blocks everything. Second, WC tend to break down quickly, leaving a large void in the container where that layer used to be. WC are temporary.
 

Aroxol

Well-Known Member
a thin layer of WC is fine or adding them as a percentage to another soil, but two things happen with a thick layer of WC... first, the flow through rate stinks and you can really mess up flow through with a layer that blocks everything. Second, WC tend to break down quickly, leaving a large void in the container where that layer used to be. WC are temporary.
Alright, good info thank you. I’ll just run the basic soil for the solo cup phase and then get more creative with the layering for the next stop 1 gal. Appreciate the information.
 

Aroxol

Well-Known Member
Day 60 Flower

Trying to capture a lot of decent photos so I can compare against the regen under dif lights, CO2, etc..

Here are pics of the phenos so you can see how different they are, and at the end of the grow I'll match some pics of the plants in veg/flower and summarize data to better tie everything together. Plants look and smell great, but with the fade and yellowing of 2/3 phenos it will be a long 10-12 additional days.

Example 1
IMG_1434.jpg



Example 2
IMG_1433.jpg


Example 3

 

Aroxol

Well-Known Member
Looking good in here man that light set up looks killler. Are those the logic pucks. I was thinking about those. I can’t wait til I can get space for a 5x5
Thanks man, and yes on the pucks. They’re definitely very solid and Id recommend them, the only thing is I’d recommend placing the driver outside of your grow tent and then get a boatload of wiring so you can place the pucks wherever/ however you want. I think my only gripe with them (and really it’s a driver issue more than pucks) is just that you can’t turn them all the way off out of the box. You can dim down to 10%, but in order to shut completely off you either need to add a switch (which I haven’t done yet) or just unplug the driver from the wall.

Other than that, they are very bright, from what I can tell the exact same thing as an HLG QB in a different form factor, and easy to assemble.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
I run meanwell drivers. They can be dimmed to off.

I start my seedlings in promix it's inert
Not all of them. The HLG-240H-C1750Bs I use cannot be dimmed to zero, or turned off without an external switch.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
That's surprising mine are the 480h-c2100b. I would have thought those were pretty similar models.
I thought so too, so I checked the datasheets. They show the HLG-240H-C1750B dims down to 10%, but the HLG-480H-C2100B dims to zero. There is a small area at the control resistance/voltage/PWM where the HLG-480H-C2100B does not respond (is off), and then a small step up to 5%, it's lowest intensity.
 

Old Salt

Member of the Month: Apr 2019
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