No offence taken and thanks for looking out for me @Momma’s Kitchen :love: . I'm not saying I'm right or wrong and I do know Em's personality. It is up to the grower as you mentioned to determine what they think is best for them and right now they are listening to Em so there's no sense in debating the problem as it would lead to more confusion for the OP.

Now I'm off to smoke my after work blunt :)
 
thanks for everyone for concern all your input is very appreciated.

so its bee 3 days and no change.. this is her now

should i flush maybe?

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hey everyone, I already have a post on this plant and the link is here, Sick plant, need help

I wanted to show an update with a new post so I can get some extra eyes on it.. I hope thats okay


this is my autoflower and shes showing some yellowing at the top as well as rust.

some helpfull people in the OP informed me it may be a Def. because I have been going easy on the nutes, you can read that all in the link.
so i gave her a full dose of ff tiger bloom ph 6.8ish and its been 3 days, yet no sign of remission.

any ideas?

Emilia if you see this, any ideas what next step might be?

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i think it is, hard to tell after only 3 days but if you check out the link with the original post you can see the pics from a few days ago and i think it looks a bit worse

and yea i was kindof expecting the leavs to go back idk why im kinda new still..
 
The pH you are adjusting to is part of this problem. 6.8 is out on the upper portion of usable range of 6.2-6.8 and by setting it up that high you are locking out several vital nutrients. As said above, the damaged leaves will not repair themselves, but the undamaged portions of them can green back up. Be patient, it is going to take a couple of watering cycles to get the nutes where they belong. Keep giving full strength and lets make sure you are doing the pH thing correctly, adjust down to 6.3 from now on.
 
okay will do, i just fed it again last night but im pretty sure my ph meter was off because i just had to add PH UP to the gal so that didnt seem right, but i didnt realize the meter was off until after i already watered..
my meter was saying (after adding calmag) my ph was at 5.9 from spring water.. i didnt think about it, added ph up, watered, and then was just like "hey wait a minute, it nver gets that low"

so in short, i just watered it last night with water that probably had too high of ph...
BUT
im using roots organic with dolomite so if my ph went too high (or low for that matter) wouldnt the dolomite just negate my mistakes? or take the edge off at least? or am i, once again, just plain wrong -___-
 
The Roots Organic with dolomite is designed so that its base pH is 6.8. This is done intentionally, and it is the dolomite that makes that happen.
What this means is that if you water at a lower pH than 6.8, you temporarily set the soil pH to that lower number, such as the 6.3 that I recommended just by adding all this adjusted water. Then, as the water leaves the soil, the soil starts to return to its base pH (because of the dolomite), drifting your soil, the roots and your nutrients through the entire usable pH range of 6.3-6.8 as the plants use the water. This is exactly how things were designed to work.
Lastly, always measure the pH of you fluids immediately before applying them to the soil. If you are giving only water on the feed/water/feed/water cycle, then pH that water to 6.3 before pouring it in there. If you are giving nutes that round, add everything that you are giving the plants that time, and then adjust the pH. Typically on nute day you have to adjust up to get to 6.3 and on water days you adjust down.
Don't worry about the soil pH. The good soil designers at Roots Organic did that for you by adding in the perfect amount of dolomite for that soil so as to get it to 6.8 pH.
 
Love you MrSauga, but I strongly disagree on this one. Oftentimes a potassium deficiency is mistaken for a burn, but that is exactly what I see. Mindrage, you have second guessed the good scientists at FoxFarms, who are bright enough to have been able to say that if you are running an Auto, use this amount, and if it is a photo, use this other.
They did not however... and it just goes to prove what I say on here over and over again, an Auto is just another plant with no special needs or desires for less nutes than any similarly sized plant. Big plants can use big nutes, and FF knows that and steadily ramps up the nutes to take care of these needs, even in an Auto.
You second guessed them and gave much less than was recommended. Do not be surprised that you now have a deficiency. Feed these plants at full strength one time and then tell me 3 days later what they look like. They are starving for this non-mobile nutrient.

You tagged it... but there are only 3 major non-mobile nutrients... it has to be one of them. Trust your gut... you were correct.
:morenutes:


hey Emilya i am about to flush 15 gal throught my 5 gal pot because things arent looking so good, going to flush with PH 6.3 with all 15 gal, afer im done should i give it a gal of nutrients or should i just flush it and leave it alone for a few days then feed?
 
hey Emilya i am about to flush 15 gal throught my 5 gal pot because things arent looking so good, going to flush with PH 6.3 with all 15 gal, afer im done should i give it a gal of nutrients or should i just flush it and leave it alone for a few days then feed?
Since almost every nutrient company out there recommends nutes on one pass and water the the next, nutes/water/nutes/water all through the grow, it makes sense to time a flush for one of the water only days. Then, since you are "flushing" out all of the leftover nutes from that soil, there is no need to pH adjust that water... just plain old tap water is perfectly fine. Then let the plant dry out as normal, and on the next watering day come back with the proper pH adjusted nutes and follow up the next time after that with pH adjusted water.
 
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