Some advice needed please

[gazmufc]

Defo not as deflated looking

 

[Azimuth]

I seen a lady adding yuccka extract, and barley to that. What u think?malted Barley for extra feeding to the microorganisms, is that correct?

Adding ground up malted barley is a Clackamas Coot idea and you can read an interview he gave Here. Its a little long but I bolded certain phrases to make finding certain parts easier. If you don't want to read the whole thing, scroll down near the end looking for the phrase "Talk a little more about barley".

But basically he noted several great features for an organic grow including insect fighting, the ability to help break down organic matter faster, and have plants finish up to 15-20% faster.

And the yucca (or aloe) will add good things like salicylic acid (aspirin) to help plants fight off disease as well as to help rehydrate hydrophilic soils and help spread the water around. Also good stuff when mixed in with foliars to help whatever you're spraying stick to the leaves rather than simply rolling off.

4tbl of incest frass

Careful with that one...

 

[Doctor Trevor]

Careful with that one...

congratulations on winning the internet today.

 

[gazmufc]

Adding ground up malted barley is a Clackamas Coot idea and you can read an interview he gave Here. Its a little long but I bolded certain phrases to make finding certain parts easier. If you don't want to read the whole thing, scroll down near the end looking for the phrase "Talk a little more about barley".

But basically he noted several great features for an organic grow including insect fighting, the ability to help break down organic matter faster, and have plants finish up to 15-20% faster.

And the yucca (or aloe) will add good things like salicylic acid (aspirin) to help plants fight off disease as well as to help rehydrate hydrophilic soils and help spread the water around. Also good stuff when mixed in with foliars to help whatever you're spraying stick to the leaves rather than simply rolling off.


Careful with that one

Adding ground up malted barley is a Clackamas Coot idea and you can read an interview he gave Here. Its a little long but I bolded certain phrases to make finding certain parts easier. If you don't want to read the whole thing, scroll down near the end looking for the phrase "Talk a little more about barley".

But basically he noted several great features for an organic grow including insect fighting, the ability to help break down organic matter faster, and have plants finish up to 15-20% faster.

And the yucca (or aloe) will add good things like salicylic acid (aspirin) to help plants fight off disease as well as to help rehydrate hydrophilic soils and help spread the water around. Also good stuff when mixed in with foliars to help whatever you're spraying stick to the leaves rather than simply rolling off.


Careful with that one...

Thanks for that, will read over that today. When u are giving teas to ur living soil, do u always keep to a set schedule or so u wait till the plants look like they are lacking?

I will be picking up yucca on my next shop visit as well. Thanks..


Oh and yeah I'm not into incest wee bit of a typo that, as I hope u gathered lol..

 

[Nunyabiz]

Hey thanks for the comment.
Yeah I messed up my cover crop from the get go. Next run il be doing that weeks before I seed up. That will give the surface of the soil more protection.

One thing I noticed about this community, and its a big plus. Most people are respectful to each others methods. I never knew watering was a debated topic, with many having their own ways of doing it. It's all always good to hear of other people's opinions. Many way to shell a pea as the say

The manufacturer of the soil I'm using suggested that bottled nutes shouldn't be needed if u keep up with the fortnightly top dressing with their amendments. So I'm just using comopost teas every 3rd week as extra. Just using worm casting, molasses.

Most were saying that's all u need as base tea for veg, others say u can add to it. Do u make teas for you're 20g pots? I seen a lady adding yuccka extract, and barley to that. What u think?malted Barley for extra feeding to the microorganisms, is that correct?
Do u top dress?

I usually top dress several days prior to starting flower.
I use an amendment mixture called Craft Blend which is equal parts of:
Kelp meal
Flax seed meal
Alfalfa meal
High P Bran
Camelina meal
Crustacean meal
Fish meal
Fish bone meal
Soybean meal
Langbeinite
Malted Barley
Volcanic tuff
Micronized Basalt
Gypsum
Oyster Flour

And top that off with a nice handful of Bokashi to help the worms break it all down.
In my water it varies depending on where I am at in the grow cycle.

In early veg I will make a sprouted seed tea of Alfalfa and a Fermented Plant Juice of Alfalfa.
Every two weeks I add some Ferticell Algae.
I also inoculate with Rootwise Microbe Complete every two weeks in veg.

Since I water small amounts everyday, I always have microdoses of something in my water.
Yucca extract is always there.
Sometimes I add small amounts of Fermented Plant Juice of Alfalfa, Comfrey, Peach.
In early veg I will add some Aloe Vera.
Just before flower I will inoculate with Rootwise Biophos to get microbes mobilizing phosphorus.
Starting as soon as the first white hair appears i add a full dose of Buildabloom which is a mixture of:
Non GMO micronized soy meal
Micronized soft rock phosphate
Fulvic acid
Gypsum
Horticultural Epsom
I do that once a week.

I have two 5 gal buckets of filtered water that goes through a long activated charcoal filter to remove most of the sadness from tap water.
And I keep them rotating to make sure the cold water warms up to about 73⁰ which is usually what my soil temp stays at in 20 gal pots in an 80⁰ grow room.
73⁰ is about the max temp that holds high dissolved oxygen in water.
I super oxygenate my water with o2 emitters daily to give as much oxygen as possible to the soil and roots.
And 73⁰ doesn't lower my soil temp.

I try to keep my roots as happy as possible. Not cold, not over saturated, definitely never dry, always right in that sweetspot of nice and moist.
Two things roots hate the most is over saturated and bone dry.

My worms are adding fresh worm castings daily, they break down the amendments and turn them into little time released nutrient pellets that's about 7x better.
The Bokashi also helps break down everything.
I add Rove beetles and predator mites to take care the fungus gnats.

 

[gazmufc]

I usually top dress several days prior to starting flower.
I use an amendment mixture called Craft Blend which is equal parts of:
Kelp meal
Flax seed meal
Alfalfa meal
High P Bran
Camelina meal
Crustacean meal
Fish meal
Fish bone meal
Soybean meal
Langbeinite
Malted Barley
Volcanic tuff
Micronized Basalt
Gypsum
Oyster Flour

And top that off with a nice handful of Bokashi to help the worms break it all down.
In my water it varies depending on where I am at in the grow cycle.

In early veg I will make a sprouted seed tea of Alfalfa and a Fermented Plant Juice of Alfalfa.
Every two weeks I add some Ferticell Algae.
I also inoculate with Rootwise Microbe Complete every two weeks in veg.

Since I water small amounts everyday, I always have microdoses of something in my water.
Yucca extract is always there.
Sometimes I add small amounts of Fermented Plant Juice of Alfalfa, Comfrey, Peach.
In early veg I will add some Aloe Vera.
Just before flower I will inoculate with Rootwise Biophos to get microbes mobilizing phosphorus.
Starting as soon as the first white hair appears i add a full dose of Buildabloom which is a mixture of:
Non GMO micronized soy meal
Micronized soft rock phosphate
Fulvic acid
Gypsum
Horticultural Epsom
I do that once a week.

I have two 5 gal buckets of filtered water that goes through a long activated charcoal filter to remove most of the sadness from tap water.
And I keep them rotating to make sure the cold water warms up to about 73⁰ which is usually what my soil temp stays at in 20 gal pots in an 80⁰ grow room.
73⁰ is about the max temp that holds high dissolved oxygen in water.
I super oxygenate my water with o2 emitters daily to give as much oxygen as possible to the soil and roots.
And 73⁰ doesn't lower my soil temp.

I try to keep my roots as happy as possible. Not cold, not over saturated, definitely never dry, always right in that sweetspot of nice and moist.
Two things roots hate the most is over saturated and bone dry.

My worms are adding fresh worm castings daily, they break down the amendments and turn them into little time released nutrient pellets that's about 7x better.
The Bokashi also helps break down everything.
I add Rove beetles and predator mites to take care the fungus gnats.

Very good. You certainly have a structured detailed outset. When u talk about sprouted tea. Do u mean growing the seed of alfalfa to a few inches and then adding them to waterfor fermentation, and then water with that water?

Is using a tea bag necessary? I don't have them, I juts added 5tbl of worm. Castings, 1 tbl spoon of molasses, and then 1 tbl of malted barely, and I bubbled that for 24hrs.. Is it not recommended to add the dirt from compost tea?

At the moment I'm actually getting the materials together for my own worm bin. I got a big bin for them, just need a lid. Have a good source of horse manure that's already loaded worms.

I've a fallow area close to my house that no one has access to. I'm gonna plant comfrey and alfalfa there and hope they take over. Going forward a wanna try and produce as much inputs as I can.

I watched a guy make his own fish tea. He just placed a whole fish in a bucket for 6 months with rain water, and few scouos of leaf mould from the forest for microbiology to break it down. Is that literally all that fish shit we see on the markets, just watered down versions of that?

 

[CaptainLucky]

Hmm, if this is supposed to be an organic soil, especially a living organic soil where you are not using bottled nutrients then this should never be allowed to dry out "IMO".
I know basically every person says exactly the opposite but I strongly disagree.
I keep my soil quite moist, I put a thick mulch layer on top to keep it moist even on the surface, my soil is never dry not even the top 1/4".
I have a very good soil tilth, at least 30% of my soil is aeration of pumice, rice hulls and biochar combined with worms and a little cover crop to get roots into the soil all this keeps the soil from getting overly saturated even if I watered the piss out of it.
Even on the bag of your soil is says water a little but often which is what I do.
I go into my grow room about 6x a day and usually add a cup or two of oxygenated water every time.
I always have Yucca Extract in the water which is a wetting agent that helps spread the water to moisten the soil evenly.
I can virtually guarantee that if you're waiting 9 days between waterings then one of two things is true.
1. Your soil is dry as a bone and hydrophobic .
2. If that soil has any moisture after 9 days other than maybe dead center then you don't have enough aeration.

I am in 20 gallon fabric pots with thick mulch on top, no plants in them, no lights on, I am just letting them cook a few weeks to get ready for another grow and I still water them a little every other day to keep a nice moisture level. It keeps the soil alive.
Water is never the problem, its lack of oxygen and if you have proper aeration then you never have lack of oxygen, water has dissolved oxygen in it and is what delivers it to the roots and the nooks and crannies in the pumice and biochar.
I keep my water highly oxygenated with o2 emitters so every time that I pour a cup or two several times a day its a shot of fresh oxygen many times a day.
Water is not the enemy.

Also adjusting water temp is important. At 68-71 degrees water has 10 times the oxygen molecules then at 73 and warmer temps can lead to root rot and pathogens. CL

 

[Nunyabiz]

Also adjusting water temp is important. At 68-71 degrees water has 10 times the oxygen molecules then at 73 and warmer temps can lead to root rot and pathogens. CL

That's a bit of a stretch in soil. It may be more of a "hydro" grow problem so they use chillers to keep their water at lower temps for oxygen uptake.
My soil temp stays about 73⁰ which is what roots like.
The biggest cause of pathogens (in soil) etc is when let's say like my situation where my soil temp likes to stay in the 73⁰ range give or take 1⁰
Now my water coming out of my tap right now is about 61⁰ and in a couple months will be colder than that.
If I were to just dump 61⁰ water in my soil especially if I were like most that water to runoff then that would chill my soil down quite a bit then its going to heat back up.
That causes root stress and is a much worse trigger for pathogens, its the temp fluctuations you need to worry about.
In fact soil temps of about 76⁰ is really supposed to be prime for cannabis roots, I stick mine at 73⁰ because thats naturally where it settles because I keep my grow room temp between 78-82⁰ and that 73⁰ is about max for water holding the maximum amount of dissolved oxygen.
So 73⁰ water into 73⁰ soil doesn't cause root stress.

I am not sure what the cut off is but low soil temps can cause absorption problems for magnesium.
lots of times people see the plant showing signs of magnesium deficiency but the problem is they water with 60⁰ water and the pot is sitting on concrete so the soil temp is too low.
Also my microbes and worms pretty much keep pathogens away.

Root Zone Temperature Optimization for Cannabis - rootssat

Root Zone Temperature Optimization for Cannabis Our technology increased dry weight yield between 40-270% in Cannabis across 11 different strains in open fields and greenhouses! One of the most often overlooked elements in Cannabis and general AG growing is root zone temperatures. Besides water...

rootssat.com

 

[CaptainLucky]

That's a bit of a stretch in soil. It may be more of a "hydro" grow problem so they use chillers to keep their water at lower temps for oxygen uptake.
My soil temp stays about 73⁰ which is what roots like.
The biggest cause of pathogens (in soil) etc is when let's say like my situation where my soil temp likes to stay in the 73⁰ range give or take 1⁰
Now my water coming out of my tap right now is about 61⁰ and in a couple months will be colder than that.
If I were to just dump 61⁰ water in my soil especially if I were like most that water to runoff then that would chill my soil down quite a bit then its going to heat back up.
That causes root stress and is a much worse trigger for pathogens, its the temp fluctuations you need to worry about.
In fact soil temps of about 76⁰ is really supposed to be prime for cannabis roots, I stick mine at 73⁰ because thats naturally where it settles because I keep my grow room temp between 78-82⁰ and that 73⁰ is about max for water holding the maximum amount of dissolved oxygen.
So 73⁰ water into 73⁰ soil doesn't cause root stress.
Also my microbes and worms pretty much keep pathogens away.

Root Zone Temperature Optimization for Cannabis - rootssat

Root Zone Temperature Optimization for Cannabis Our technology increased dry weight yield between 40-270% in Cannabis across 11 different strains in open fields and greenhouses! One of the most often overlooked elements in Cannabis and general AG growing is root zone temperatures. Besides water...

rootssat.com

I’m not disputing soil temperature and you can Google the best temperature for watering cannabis. And before you say you can’t trust Google it’s a grower’s site that says it. CL

 

[Nunyabiz]

Very good. You certainly have a structured detailed outset. When u talk about sprouted tea. Do u mean growing the seed of alfalfa to a few inches and then adding them to waterfor fermentation, and then water with that water?

Is using a tea bag necessary? I don't have them, I juts added 5tbl of worm. Castings, 1 tbl spoon of molasses, and then 1 tbl of malted barely, and I bubbled that for 24hrs.. Is it not recommended to add the dirt from compost tea?

At the moment I'm actually getting the materials together for my own worm bin. I got a big bin for them, just need a lid. Have a good source of horse manure that's already loaded worms.

I've a fallow area close to my house that no one has access to. I'm gonna plant comfrey and alfalfa there and hope they take over. Going forward a wanna try and produce as much inputs as I can.

I watched a guy make his own fish tea. He just placed a whole fish in a bucket for 6 months with rain water, and few scouos of leaf mould from the forest for microbiology to break it down. Is that literally all that fish shit we see on the markets, just watered down versions of that?

To make sprouted seed tea of Alfalfa you sprout them until about the size of the seed, so 1/4".
Then put those in a blender with fresh dechlorinated water and blend a few seconds.
No need for tea bags.
Be careful where you plant Comfrey, once there its always there so it will be Comfrey in that spot for life.

 

[Azimuth]

Be careful where you plant Comfrey, once there its always there so it will be Comfrey in that spot for life.

And get the sterile kind. I grow Bocking 14 which is supposed to be the one with the highest levels of certain compounds compared to others.

Don't plant the kind that will seed. Imagine your plant throwing seeds all over your's and your neighbor's yards. Those will produce 1,000's of new plants that you'll also never be able to get rid of. They are propagated by root cuttings and the roots can go down dozens of feet. So if you sever a root trying to dig it out, you instead just created new plants, each of which you'll also never dig out.

A good fertilizer for you plants, though.

 

[gazmufc]

And get the sterile kind. I grow Bocking 14 which is supposed to be the one with the highest levels of certain compounds compared to others.

Don't plant the kind that will seed. Imagine your plant throwing seeds all over your's and your neighbor's yards. Those will produce 1,000's of new plants that you'll also never be able to get rid of. They are propagated by root cuttings and the roots can go down dozens of feet. So if you sever a root trying to dig it out, you instead just created new plants, each of which you'll also never dig out.

A good fertilizer for you plants, though.

Thanks for that. I see I can the the bocking 14 in root cuttings. It's easy to get in my country, Going to try and make as much of my own fertilisers. Starting with a worm compost bin.

On a funnier note, I used to be part of a allotment, and I remember planting comfrey all around the border of the allotment. That's about 4 yrs ago lol. It must be well spread out by now lol
I left that allotment tho cuz they were ment to be organic and people there were anything but. I must also order some alfalfa and barley seed next, and yucca powder...

 

[gazmufc]

Hey guys. Really appreciate the feedback and the advice I'm getting. You folks certainly know your game..

OK so I've noticed a few deficiencies that I'm gonna take a stab at diagnosis and you folks can tell me if I'm on the right track.

Noticing in between leaf viens is going a little yellow on some leafs. Going by looking at charts, it looks most like a potassium deficiency to me? What yous think?

 

[gazmufc]

Hey guys. Really appreciate the feedback and the advice I'm getting. You folks certainly know your game..

OK so I've noticed a few deficiencies that I'm gonna take a stab at diagnosis and you folks can tell me if I'm on the right track.

Noticing in between leaf viens is going a little yellow on some leafs. Going by looking at charts, it looks most like a potassium deficiency to me? What yous think?

The yellowing is located to the centre and in between the viens, and not to the outsides of the leaf, this is what has me thinking its potassium.

Abiut 2 months ago was reading that fermenting banana skins is a great foliar spray, or soil conditioner for organic living soil. I've got some and it's been brewing now for almost 3 months. Should I make up a small amount and give her a spray with it?

If not, what other way would u give you're plant a quick boost of potassium?

 

[gazmufc]

Actually on 2nd thoughts, going by the pictures I have, It looks more like a magnesium deficiency doesn't it?
I'm using RO water and don't add any cal mag.
What can I give them that wud boost the magnesium ?

 

[gazmufc]

I've some kelp powder that has decent levels of cal/mag. I cud either top dress it, (but afraid of adding more issue) maybe wud it be better to put it into water and give them a folier spray with it? Just wanna keep on top of this. Last time I got to flower stage my plant was wrecked lol.. Really trying to prevent that this time. I'm not even worried about bug harvests or lovely looking nugs. For now my main goal is to get to the end and plants still healthy.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Make sure soil pH is between 6-7
Are affected leaves at top or bottom of the plant?
You could make up a foliar spray with Epsom salts, use warm water and Yucca or aloe vera as a surfactant, let the water cool to room temp and spray top and bottom of every leaf do that every two days for a week.

 

[gazmufc]

Im only seeing this on the lower leafs. So that means it's a immobile nutrient right? It's going to be a few weeks before I can get yucca. Will any aloe Vera powder do?
Epsom salts is something I cud get today, is there a particular one I should get?

Yeah I've been bringing the PH down to between 6.0/6.5..using pH up and down.
Its a hit of a pin tho, water comes out of ro at 7.5..literally 1 tiny drop of pH down can crash it to 5.0..then I gotta use 5 or more pH up drops to get it back above 6. I've noticed as well the PH over the days will continue to rise.

 

[Azimuth]

I must also order some alfalfa and barley seed next, and yucca powder...

You can get "malted" barley from brew stores or on-line. Malted means they sprouted the seed then immediately dried it, shutting down the enzymatic activity. Not sure about alfalfa though.

Im only seeing this on the lower leafs. So that means it's a immobile nutrient right?

The plant will use mobile elements from the lower growth to help the new upper growth. A cal/mag deficiency is much more common at your stage of growth.

 

[gazmufc]

You can get "malted" barley from brew stores or on-line. Malted means they sprouted the seed then immediately dried it, shutting down the enzymatic activity. Not sure about alfalfa though.


The plant will use mobile elements from the lower growth to help the new upper growth. A cal/mag deficiency is much more common at your stage of growth.

Thanks Azimuth, appreciate the feedback. Have saved those videos in my playlist as well...