lassus
New Member
I've recently had success with the pyrethrins. I wish I discovered this sooner!
Spider Mites
- Thread starter kickstart1227
- Start date
420
Founder
Try our Sponsor Sierra Natural Science
007Leagues
New Member
what do you do about the webs all over the buds?
lassus
New Member
Pyrethrins. I like Hot Shot Flea and Bedbug Spray, it's .3% and most others are .1%.
Spray it over and under side of the leaves and then do it again a week later. By the time you're ready to smoke it, it'll have evaporated and broken down. Like J-Freak says, if you see webs, you have to take off the gloves and get serious.
Spray it over and under side of the leaves and then do it again a week later. By the time you're ready to smoke it, it'll have evaporated and broken down. Like J-Freak says, if you see webs, you have to take off the gloves and get serious.
Chronik_smoka
New Member
best 80 bucks ive spent, got rid of my mites instantly, but only temporarily, it slows them down metabolically and makes it so they also wont be able to lay eggs, slowing growth and reproduction then after you harvest use pyrethens on your room and equipment to kill off any stragglers that abandon the drying plants in search of greener pastures (usually my clones)
its hard to get rid of mites in the northwest because there in the forests and the bushes all around us. after you kill em all, a few will find there way in your room.
NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING ON YOUR BUDS AFTER WEEK 1!
as soon as flowers develop, you will be smoking that, why do you want anything else but dank?
only water after week 1 water will slow the mites but not very well what works best is if you use water in a pump sprayer and spray the mites off the bottoms of the leaves with pressureyou gotta slow the mites before you flower hit your room with pyrethium and spray your ladies with some azamax right at the end of week 1 and you wont have mite problems at all, right after you trim your lower branches at the end of the first week spray them so then you have less leaves to spray and then remove all old leaves from the room.
the key isnt always getting rid of them but making it harder for them to become a problem keeping there population as low as possible, keeping humidity above 50% i dont ever see webs or anything like that, but i see spider mites every now and then, speckling a leaf...either wipe the leaf off with a damp paper towel or remove the whole leaf if it has alot of mites/eggs and then crush the leaf into a little ball, every one you kill now wont lay 100 eggs later.
insects are naturally drawn to plants they will find them, and if you havent had spider mites awesome, they are a real pain in the ass i hope you never have to wage war on these tiny little bastards.
There are only 3 kinds of growers:
Those who have Spider Mites
Those who are about to have Spider Mites
Those who lie about not having Spider Mites
This post is for the first and second type of grower. The third type is dangerous and will often use a dangerous chemical late in flower in order to sell a crop that may not be fit for consumption. Such a person should test the pesticide on themselves first, prior to selling a crop that should have been trashed.
The idea is to plan for mites and manage them so that safe, healthy crops are produced.
Mites have an amazing ability to reproduce, and can live many months in hibernation, only to wake up, eat your leaves, screw and have hundreds of thousands of babies, who grow up, screw and then have even more.
What this means is that if you use ANY product exclusively---with one exception---the handful of mites that you don't kill will produce mites that have a natural ability to survive whatever spray you were using. Do this for a few cycles and you've now got mites that pyrethrin won't touch.
Same with Avid, Floramite, Forbid, or any other miticide.
The exception is Azadathracin, which is found in Mite Rid, Azamax and Azatrol. The mites cannot build up a tolerance to this substance, because of the way it works. However, while this stuff is good for controlling an infestation, it doesn't have the knockdown power that some other stuff has.
Here's what I've learned from professional nursery folks, who need to kill mites in order to put food on their table:
Low temps and high RH slow the mites down. Hot and dry make them go crazy. If you want to save your crop, keep temps in the '70s and RH between 50 and 60. To avoid but rot and powdery mildew use Serenade or some other product if necessary.
Buy several Primary products and rotate them.
1.)Floramite
2.)Forbid
3.)Avid (or another one. Avid is nasty, but effective)
You can only spray each product ONCE per year!
Then, get several secondary products, and rotate them:
1.)Azatrol/Azamax
2.)Pyrethrin (Doctor Doom)
3.)Mite Rid (stronger version of Azadathracin that can also be systemic)
Finally, get some bug bombs and Hot Shot strips.
So, here's how to use the products:
If you had mites on your last grow:
1.)Mop, bleach, clean, scrub the grow room.
2.)2 Bug bombs, 5 days apart.
3.)No Pest strip hung for 10 days
4.)After doing 1-3, start another crop.
5.)Before switching to 12/12 spray plants with a primary product (Floramite, Forbid, Avid)
Watch carefully for mites throughout the grow. If you find any, treat them with a secondary product from the list. These products are safe if used properly, some of them up until the day of harvest. Continue spraying the secondary products in rotation every 5 days, until no more mites can be found.
---------------------------------
If you were lucky enough to NOT have had mites on your last grow:
1.)Mop, bleach, scrub the grow room.
2.)Bug bomb once
3.)Hang No Pest strip for 10 days
4.)Begin the grow
5.)Just before going 12/12 spray plants with a secondary product
6.)continue to monitor for signs of mites throughout the grow and use only secondary products to manage them.
At the conclusion of the grow, start the process listed above "If you had mites on your last grow."
By doing this, you will manage the mites, produce safe and healthy product and most importantly, You will not breed supermites!
One other thing, carefully examine each and every clone before they enter your grow room. If they have mites, start the process as if you had mites on your last grow! Because, if you bring mite-infested clones into your grow room, you've now got mites.....Pray that whoever produced the clone didn't create super mites because they have a favorite product that they use over and over and over.
I'm told the mites in Humbolt area are immune to almost everything.
Those who have Spider Mites
Those who are about to have Spider Mites
Those who lie about not having Spider Mites
This post is for the first and second type of grower. The third type is dangerous and will often use a dangerous chemical late in flower in order to sell a crop that may not be fit for consumption. Such a person should test the pesticide on themselves first, prior to selling a crop that should have been trashed.
The idea is to plan for mites and manage them so that safe, healthy crops are produced.
Mites have an amazing ability to reproduce, and can live many months in hibernation, only to wake up, eat your leaves, screw and have hundreds of thousands of babies, who grow up, screw and then have even more.
What this means is that if you use ANY product exclusively---with one exception---the handful of mites that you don't kill will produce mites that have a natural ability to survive whatever spray you were using. Do this for a few cycles and you've now got mites that pyrethrin won't touch.
Same with Avid, Floramite, Forbid, or any other miticide.
The exception is Azadathracin, which is found in Mite Rid, Azamax and Azatrol. The mites cannot build up a tolerance to this substance, because of the way it works. However, while this stuff is good for controlling an infestation, it doesn't have the knockdown power that some other stuff has.
Here's what I've learned from professional nursery folks, who need to kill mites in order to put food on their table:
Low temps and high RH slow the mites down. Hot and dry make them go crazy. If you want to save your crop, keep temps in the '70s and RH between 50 and 60. To avoid but rot and powdery mildew use Serenade or some other product if necessary.
Buy several Primary products and rotate them.
1.)Floramite
2.)Forbid
3.)Avid (or another one. Avid is nasty, but effective)
You can only spray each product ONCE per year!
Then, get several secondary products, and rotate them:
1.)Azatrol/Azamax
2.)Pyrethrin (Doctor Doom)
3.)Mite Rid (stronger version of Azadathracin that can also be systemic)
Finally, get some bug bombs and Hot Shot strips.
So, here's how to use the products:
If you had mites on your last grow:
1.)Mop, bleach, clean, scrub the grow room.
2.)2 Bug bombs, 5 days apart.
3.)No Pest strip hung for 10 days
4.)After doing 1-3, start another crop.
5.)Before switching to 12/12 spray plants with a primary product (Floramite, Forbid, Avid)
Watch carefully for mites throughout the grow. If you find any, treat them with a secondary product from the list. These products are safe if used properly, some of them up until the day of harvest. Continue spraying the secondary products in rotation every 5 days, until no more mites can be found.
---------------------------------
If you were lucky enough to NOT have had mites on your last grow:
1.)Mop, bleach, scrub the grow room.
2.)Bug bomb once
3.)Hang No Pest strip for 10 days
4.)Begin the grow
5.)Just before going 12/12 spray plants with a secondary product
6.)continue to monitor for signs of mites throughout the grow and use only secondary products to manage them.
At the conclusion of the grow, start the process listed above "If you had mites on your last grow."
By doing this, you will manage the mites, produce safe and healthy product and most importantly, You will not breed supermites!
One other thing, carefully examine each and every clone before they enter your grow room. If they have mites, start the process as if you had mites on your last grow! Because, if you bring mite-infested clones into your grow room, you've now got mites.....Pray that whoever produced the clone didn't create super mites because they have a favorite product that they use over and over and over.
I'm told the mites in Humbolt area are immune to almost everything.
Check this out: My Experience Using Sierra Natural Science Spider Mite Spray Theres a review and picts of the product and how it worked. I Definetly recommend it. Its worked thus far. As the weeks role on I will update the thread with the progress of the plant and weather the mites come back or not.
Check this out: My Experience Using Sierra Natural Science Spider Mite Spray Theres a review and picts of the product and how it worked. I Definetly recommend it. Its worked thus far. As the weeks role on I will update the thread with the progress of the plant and weather the mites come back or not.
That looks like a great product! I think I'll get some for my "secondary" list.
I followed my own advice, listed above, and I did not have any mites on my last grow....but I also spent about 200 bucks on my Spider Mite arsenal.
Thanks DOC. Glad you got your infestion under control. Nothing worse. I just about had a heart attack when I saw the webs. I know how I got it too. My was workin on my rosebushes and thought I had spotted them. So I sprayed them, but some must have gottin some on me and transfered while I was in the flower garden(outdoors). Tahts one benifit of the SNS spray it smells of such a strong scent of rosemary it will actually help to keep other pest away out there and not ruin the smell of fresh flowers.
CaliforniaTHC
New Member
live ladybugs are my favorite......LIQUID LADYBUG AND MITYWASH BOTH GOOD. Once you see webs, its late already. Need to find them much sooner . If my new leaves are looking sick.........I have mites. by the time you see webs its almost to late. microscope will find bugs and mold real good and soon enough to save them. They look like monsters under scope.
jd8611
New Member
Has anyone used habanero's for spider mites?
GreenPinky
New Member
If feasible in your situation, I find that physically removing them by spraying them off + dunking is the only sure fire way that works for me. It sounds like your plants are still small enough to where you can do this. You may have to repeat the process if the initial removal didn't get all the eggs.
The problem with chemical controls is that if it is not effective, the problem will only get worse as it is more likely that the survivors are at least partially resistant to your treatment.
The problem with chemical controls is that if it is not effective, the problem will only get worse as it is more likely that the survivors are at least partially resistant to your treatment.
420
Founder
We've seen the best success with SNS-217 from Sierra Natural Science and it's all natural. 
SNS 217 Spider Mite Control Spray | Sierra Natural Science
SNS 217 Spider Mite Control Spray | Sierra Natural Science
jd8611
New Member
I have seen the SNS 217 on here and I may very well try it. Currently, I have a 8 plant perpetual garden every 30 days. Last month I found spider mites in my flower room (they do look like monsters under a scope!) I blasted them with a homemade habanero juice spray and it killed them all, however, they eggs remained and they did re-appear a couple weeks later. I treated them again yesterday and all looks good, so far. The biggest issue is it's PEPPER SPRAY and not very friendly to humans. The SNS 217 claims to KILL the EGGS as well as any living critters, and is natural. Spider mites are survivor's and extremely difficult to totally eradicate, I am going to do some research on the aforementioned product. I wonder if the mites are able to create an immunity to the SNS 217 as with other methods?We've seen the best success with SNS-217 from Sierra Natural Science and it's all natural.
SNS 217 Spider Mite Control Spray | Sierra Natural Science
Came across that little ditty, but couldn't recall where....lol
Thanks for the great info guys. Asked a personal friend (non pot grower) to check on neem oil or such at one of the stores that might have mite controls things and they already had a spray bottle of it and just brought it to me.
Will read directions and start sprays soon.
Thanks...420 is the place*
Similar threads
- Sticky
