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Spider Mites


New Member
Are spider mites near invisible when they are young? I had a single one on a baby, that i could clearly see and identify. i cleaned the leaves by hand with a wet sponge but im still getting some light browning on the edges of my leaves and if i look close with a 12x magnifying glass, i can see small black dots. Could those be larval mites eating my leaves???

Smokin Moose

Fallen Cannabis Warrior
Chemical Control - "Soft Pesticides". Most spider mites can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps. The oils, both horticultural oil and dormant oil, can be used. Horticultural oils can be used on perennial and woody ornamentals during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4 percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. The insecticidal soaps are useful in the warm season. Remember that mites are very tiny and soaps and oils work by contact only. Therefore, thorough coverage of the plant is necessary for good control. Neem oil is an excellent option but attention must be given to correct application.

Chemical Control - "Miticides". Spider mites are usually not killed by regular insecticides, so be sure to check the pesticide label to see if "miticide" is present. Pesticides claiming "for mite suppression" are usually weak miticides and will not perform well. There are few products available to the homeowner. Dicofol (=Kelthane) is registered for over-the-counter use but is difficult to find. Acephate (=Orthene), dimethoate (=Cygon), chlorpyrifos (=Dursban), diazinon, disulfoton (=Di-syston), and malathion have over-the-counter product labels but are considered weak miticides. I have used Kelthane with excellent results.


New Member
Thank you Moose. That will help me find a good Chemical that i can water down a bit an apply, based upon acidity and chemical content.

DaMagoMan. Thank you also. That is what i suspected. I've been removing them by hand as well as i could. This may cause small areas of leaves to turn yellow at first and die, i would assume? I've read a few of your threads and I am rather sure you have quite a bit of suitable talent. I am currently in college and majoring in botany. I have, my entire life(since my first rip), had a strong urge to open a shop and grow my own strains. I love plant life and I hope to gain further knowledge from yourself, as well as many other of the dedicated members of this forum. Thank you all. Wishes of strong growth to all.


New Member
Insecticidal Soaps kill mites by penetrating its protective outer shell, disrupting their respiratory system and causing damage, which in turn causes them to dehydrate and die. They must be sprayed directly on to the mites in order to kill them. When applied properly, insecticidal soaps have very little to no toxicity to humans, animals, or most beneficial insects. And is only effective before the solution evaporates.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Oils such as horticultural oil and dormant oil, can also be used sparingly. These oils are a highly refined mineral oil that kills dormant adults and their eggs by suffocating them. Apply it early in the season to kill eggs, but not on very young plants - make sure you that they are diluted according to package directions. Heavy use can cause a buildup and damage plants. [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Neem Oil is a completely safe, non-toxic, biodegradable substance made by crushing the seeds of the Neem tree which has natural insecticidal properties. Different parts of the Neem tree are used in natural medicines, toothpastes, soaps, and spiritual food to millions in India. It is only in the past decade, that the pest control potential of Neem is being rediscovered. Neem oil makes the plant unpalatable to pests, it does not kill them but affects their behavior and physiology. Though subtle, Neem's effects such as repellence, feeding and reproductive cycle, growth inhibition, mating disruption, chemo-sterilization etc. are now considered far more desirable than a quick knock-down in integrated pest management programs as they reduce the risk of exposing pests natural enemies to poisoned food or starvation. [/FONT]

If you have to attack and remove quickly a large mite population, it is practical and efficient to use an organic Pyrethrum. The two most popular ways of using pyrethrum are dusting or spraying. It is important to note that cool temperatures enhance the effects of pyrethrum. It is therefore recommended to apply in late afternoon so that cooler evening temperatures will improve efficiency, The effect of pyrethrum is immediate. Insects are paralyzed on contact. If a very low dose is used you need to take care that the mites are dead and not simply stunned to recover several hours later.
One of the added benefits of Pyrethrum it disrupts pests from their hiding places forcing them to get out and to get exposed to the insecticide. Although pyrethrum is highly effective, and no toxic, it is also nonselective so it can destroy many benificial insects.

I did find some very interesting info about mites and temperatures. ..

A female lays about 100 eggs during her lifetime. Depending upon climate conditions, the eggs hatch in as little as 2-3 days, and the adult stage is reached in 7-10 days. The females reproduction is greatly affected by climate and humidity with a significant difference in the days till their maturity dependant upon the temperature i.e.) egg to adult. For instance at 60 degrees Fahrenheit, it takes 30 days for the egg to become an adult, at 70 degrees 14.5 days and here is the astounding number - 90 degrees Fahrenheit they reach adulthood in just 3.5 days! So now imagine those populations increases over a month when the offspring start to reproduce less than a week after hatching - at 70 degrees she and her offspring number 13,000; at 80 degrees she and her offspring represent a staggering potential of 13,000,000 individuals over a single month - huge population increases

Just so happens that I have been gathering info about mites and other such pests recently. . .lol

Bagz :peace:


New Member
Get On 'Em and Stay On 'Em, it's Key.

Not just the plants you gota' spray the Whole Farm!!!

If you can spray and Clean the room.
Everything needs to be sprayed/treated!!!
I have done some experimenting
since one of my breeding goals is a More Mite resistant strain.
Even in dirt infested and allowed to freeze a few times, outdoors where they are preyed upon, da'Friggin' Thangs come back.
Oh damn, that last batch of mites did come off some Florist bought roses, they maybe Columbian ... no wonder they are sooo hard to kill.

Kill 'em All and Let God sort 'em Out :3:


New Member
It's true,mite control is a daily task i've had to get used to.Neem oil spray seems to work as do bug bombs,but they wont go away,and both of these fixes only work for 2-3 days.i SPRAY MISTY WATER TO DETECT MITE WEBS WHEN THE LIGHTS ARE DIM.{CAPS LOCKED]ANYWAY,WHO KNOWS HOW MITES ARE BROUGHT IN ,IS IT IN THE POTS OR SOIL??


New Member
I've got 2 small plants at the moment, and what I assumed may become a "spider mite infestation". I know I had eggs. Most likely from having them outdoors to pop a sunlight cherry and get some light. Regardless, I have been using a light, all organic soap, very lightly in water, with a moist sponge to whipe the bottems of my leaves and it seems to have gotten rid of any mature mites. I get a few spots turning up on my leaves. Maybe 1 a day. Other than that, its become a neutral threat. Should I expect it to become more of a problem later on? Will one mite egg getting passed my guard present a real threat?

Smokin Moose

Fallen Cannabis Warrior
I would use a systemic miticide if you are that concerned. Your daily regimen that you have now seems adequate though, but will become more difficult as the plant foliates.


New Member
they live in the soil and you'll not be able to kill them you need to wash your plants all the time to controll them is the best you,ll do untel you can clean the room by bleach and water, I just did this in my room and no mates back !
I use it in a sprayer and do the hole room vary well let dry , leave room right after spraying you do not want to breath it, after drying turn on your fan to clear all air!


New Member
for god sakes do not spray the carpet with bleach you will destroy it !

You need to put borax ?? Did I spell it right ?
You can buy it at the dollar store.


New Member
the Borax is a sope you can use it to clean just about anything , you need to stop all growing and go to cleaning , on the carpet you just but the Borax on and let it sit, after you clean the carpet, I steam clean it 2 time to get all the BOrax out ,

It will Kill the eggs,

Bleach the rest:37:

Beet the band down man :3:

:cool027: I hope I helped you and you understand what I said.

Take the time to clean well and air out after,

It may be a pain but you'll get 2 times tha mount and it will be so much better is all way's

For now just use water to wash your plants.
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