Stardawg17, Dutch Bucket, Photo, Fall 2022

[stardawg17]

Finally got my first grow of my 3rd year going. 1 week ago today I dropped 6 seeds into water. 3 Alaskan Thunder Fuck and 3 Northern Lights. Seeds purchased from Pacific Seed Bank. I could be harvesting in about 13 weeks

Alaskan Thunder Fuck
Strain Details

As hybrids go, Alaskan Thunder Fuck marijuana is a rare strain unto itself, offering up a whopping 22% THC with a sweet and spicy, down-to-earth fragrance that will make colors brighter and the world seem better almost instantly.


Everyone’s in agreement – Alaskan Thunder Fuck will hit you like a freight train, inspiring action and creativity with an enjoyable buzz and clear-headed high that is great for daytime use. You’ll want to be careful who you smoke this around, however, since its fragrance is powerfully pungent – like diesel and skunk (or ammonia-rich cat pee). Thankfully, it’s flavor is a bit sweeter, with a touch of fruity earthiness, and a hint of citrus.


Patients participating in medical marijuana programs know that Alaskan Thunder Fuck marijuana is a cure-all, popular for treating chronic pain, muscle spasms, PTSD, depression, and migraines.


A nod to its heritage, Alaskan Thunder Fuck grows best in conditions that mimic its origins – it will thrive in a cool dry climate. You may want to consider this pretty but stinky strain for outdoor gardens, however, since the average yield jumps from 500 grams to 850 grams per plant when grown as nature intended.

Strain Data

Breeder	Original Kush
Cannabis Species	Hybrid
Genetics	50% Sativa/50% Indica
Flowering Time	55-65 days
THC	22%
CBD Level	Low (<2%)
Feels Like	Euphoric, Happy, Uplifting
Yield Indoors (per m²)	Up to 500g/m²
Yield Outdoors	Up to 850 gr
To Treat	Depression, Lack of Appetite, Pain
Taste	Earthy, Spicy, Sweet
Skill Level	Intermediate
Plant Sex	Feminized
Flowering Type	Photoperiod
Cultivate	Indoor/Outdoor
Size	Tall

Report Date	Seed Drop	Days Old	Week		Harvest	Days Old	Week
10/1	10/01	0	0	est flip	1/2	93	13
Flower Days	flip	10/29	4	10/29
65	In Flower	-28	-4
Proj Harvest	Remaining	93	13
01/02

Northern LIghts
Strain Details

Regardless its descriptors, Northern Lights remains one of the most famous marijuana strains of all time, adored for its resinous buds, short flowering period, and overall resilience. A hybrid combination of landrace Afghani and Thai strains, it has also become the cornerstone of many other well-known breeds since its conception in 1985.


Redolent of the woods with hints of sweet, sweet candy, Northern Lights provides the kind of effect you expect from a classic indica, with a euphoria that settles throughout the body, bringing with it dreamy relaxation that lets you feel comfortably lazy. Many patients, past and present, have sought out Northern Lights feminized marijuana seeds to treat conditions like pain, insomnia, depression, and stress.


Rather on the short side, Northern Lights is a relatively easy growing strain, and indoors gardeners can expect the often purple-hued buds to yield up to 650 grams per plant, after around two months of flowering.

Strain Data

Breeder	Original Harvest Seeds
Cannabis Species	Indica
Genetics	80% Indica / 20% Sativa
Flowering Time	50-60 days
THC	19%
CBD Level	Low (<2%)
Feels Like	Euphoric, Happy, Relaxing
Yield Indoors (per m²)	Up to 550g/m²
Yield Outdoors	550-650 g/plant
To Treat	Insomnia, Pain, Stress
Taste	Earthy, Sweet
Skill Level	Intermediate
Plant Sex	Feminized
Flowering Type	Photoperiod
Cultivate	Indoor/Outdoor
Size	Medium

Report Date	Seed Drop	Days Old	Week		Harvest	Days Old	Week
10/1	10/01	0	0	est flip	12/28	88	13
Flower Days	flip	10/29	4	10/29
60	In Flower	-28	-4
Proj Harvest	Remaining	88	13
12/28

 

[stardawg17]

Sunday 10/02
Moved the seeds into rapid rooters...

I'm trying a different method I saw in a YouTube video with 1 of the Northern Lights. I made a wick with a paper towel and threaded it through the net cup. At the bottom of the Folgers can is a 1/4 strength DynaGrow nutrient solution.

I started with the dome on and the light off. The light is on just for the picture.

Seeds and I don't have a good relationship. I've had about 100% germination rate and then about 90% die before they break ground or shortly after. I've used rockwool cubes in the past and this is my first time using rapid rooters. God willing things go better this time

 

[stardawg17]

Saturday 10/08/22
Week 1 report...

Report Date	Seed Drop	Days Old	Week
10/8	10/1	7	1
Flip Date	In Flower	-23	-3	harvest
10/31	Remaining	93	13	1/9
Nutes	ml/gal	gallons	Total ml	Schedule 0
Hormex	2.8	0.25	0.625
DynaGrow Grow	2.5	0.25	0.625

ATF

NL

You may have noticed some new dials on the dashboard. I've added soil moisture and lux sensors to the MCUs. I've only created 2 MCUs so far but I plan to have 1 per plant. I've also learned how to calibrate my temperature and humidity sensors. I'm not sure if them being inaccurate caused my issues for my last grow, but, it couldn't have helped.

Controlling the environment based on Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) is a lot more finicky than just using basic temperature and humidity ranges. The target bands are very tight and having inaccurate sensors just makes it useless. Hopefully my calibrations help and things go better this time around.

All 3 of the Northern Lights are showing signs of life, but, nothing from the ATF seeds yet. Just in case I put my sentry on guard...

Now that the NL seeds have broken through I'll leave the light on.

I upgraded my environmental control system to a Raspberry Pi 4 running the OS from a USB 3 SSD hard drive. I'm hoping this brings stability to the system, although, I had some kinks I had to work out this work so there are some gaps in my data. Today I added the second MCU to the environment and put the soil moisture sensor in 1 of the ATF rapid rooters.


I discovered that the TV tray I have this setup on in my office is not exactly level, so the ATF plugs have more moisture. I hope I didn't drown them.

 

[stardawg17]

Below you can see the soil moisture measured in % wet for the week. Wednesday night it dropped down to the lowest at 16%. I've been keeping a pretty close eye on it and when it drops to about 30% I give the plugs a couple of spritzes with the 1/4 nute solution. It usually brings it back up to about 40-45%. I only had the sensor in one of the NL plugs and I just found out today that the ATF plugs probably had more moisture.

 

[InTheShed]

with the germination and sprouting! Seeds and new sprouts definitely don't need nutes so I think that technique doesn't add anything to the process. No idea if it would hurt though...

 

[stardawg17]

with the germination and sprouting! Seeds definitely don't need nutes so I think that technique doesn't add anything to the process. No idea if it would hurt though...

Hey shed... Thanks for dropping by.

I've seen posts where some add nutes some don't. Probably not needed until the first set of true leaves. Propagation is where I've had the most failure. People rave about rapid rooters so I figured I'd give them a go. And the wick method... I've always gotten tap roots using the paper towel method and if I can grow in hydroton without any rockwool or rapid rooters why not

I've got some pretty big changes going on in the lab and hope everything comes together. I'm really hoping to get a clone from each strain so I can have some mothers. I put together 2x2x4 tent out there today and plan to move the seedlings into it in a few days.

Thanks again for stopping by.

 

[stardawg17]

Well...the seed killer strikes again

Maybe it was self-sabotage. I really wasn't very methodical and was too sloppy. The first mistake was not picking a strategy and sticking with it. I also shouldn't have worried about the seedlings having light the second they popped through the soil. Leggy seedlings are better than dead seedlings. Because of this, when I put the seeds in the rapid rooters I cut the corner off and stuffed it into the hole to cover the seed. I think this is why the seedlings had such a hard time breaking through.

This was one of the ATF seeds that never popped through...

These are the NL that popped out but then never grew...

And this NL looked promising but just stopped growing...

These 2 are ATF seeds that look like they never even cracked so I'm trying the process all over again with them...

I've ordered new seeds and upgrades to my propagation system. This time I'll be sure to pH test my water and verify PPM of my nutrient solutions. The light I used is made specifically for propagation and was within the specified distance from the plants so I don't think that was the problem.

I'll also have my tents setup in the lab and I'll try a different method in each tent. I'm also not going to use the soil moisture sensors just in case they played a role in my failure. As far as picking a strategy and sticking with it...I'll create step by step instructions for each method and post them here so I can refer to them daily and ensure I follow the process.

 

[InTheShed]

Way too complicated for me with meters in the rooters, pH, and nutes all before they're even above ground!

I'm old school with peat pucks, distilled water, and a curly CFL a couple of inches away.

with the next set.

 

[stardawg17]

Thanks @InTheShed

Think this next attempt I'll try the KISS principal

 

[InTheShed]

Thanks @InTheShed

Think this next attempt I'll try the KISS principal

Excellent idea!

 

[stardawg17]

Method 1:
Rapid Rooters...From Billy Dakid YouTuber

-soak Rapid Rooter plugs 24 hours minimum in solution of 100-200 ppm with a pH of 6.3-6.4. (use a VEG type solution of 4-0-0 or comparable at 120ppm. if you use granular nutrients, mix your solution at least a day before you soak your plugs to allow dissolution/suspension of the granular nutrients) -using tweezers, place seeds pit down, pointy side up in the Rapid Rooter plugs. -cut a small slice off of a Rapid Rooter plug and gently place over seed hole (to restrict light). -add the solution you soaked the plugs in to the bottom of the planting tray to a depth of approx. 1/4" in the tray. -cover with humidity dome. -maintain a root zone temperature of at least 68 degrees Fahrenheit. I employ heated seed mats to do so. -place covered trays under a T5 fluorescent light or comparable. I prefer to leave my light ON 24/7. -when germination has completed, remove humidity dome. very important!

heat mat stays ON until germination occurs. humidity dome stays ON until germination occurs. it is extremely important to remove humidity dome when germ is complete. maintain the water level in the tray. hand watering of plugs may be necessary for a day or two until tap root touches water reserve in tray. hand water about 5 to 10 ml solution per plug. even watering for even dryoff. i use a syringe.

Do you leave the plugs soaked or do you squeeze some water out?
Soaked

Do you find you have to refill the 1/4” of nutrient water in the bottom tray? Or is that first pour sufficient for how long the plugs stay in their starter tray before transplant?
yes, after you remove the lid, it requires a little topping off every day

Do the seeds need to be watered again before they sprout?
if you use a 24 hour pre-saok, dome, a heat mat and fill tray to level, you won't need to water until the second day following humidity dome removal (remove humidity dome once germination is complete).

once seeds are in plugs, 18x6 schedule in the tent?
i run my veg 24 hours on, always.

 

[stardawg17]

Method 2: @InTheShed Peat Pucks

No trouble at all stardawg! I'll take a crack at explaining my very basic system. I'm here to help.

I soak in the dark in a bowl of distilled water until it has a tiny tail. Then they go in the peat pucks soaked in distilled water and slightly wrung out.

Do you use a germination tray / solo cups? Humidity dome? Heat mat?

I use a heat mat under a shoebox with a desk light above it for extra warm (because it's a CFL).

I just put the peat pucks in little bowls to keep the cardboard dry.

Looks like this in operation:

The white wire is a temperature sensor. I keep it at 80°F the whole time.

Do you germinate in the dark or under lights?

Light light light 24/0. I want them to see light at the earliest moment possible.

Do you control temp / humidity?

Just temperature.

What is your watering schedule? How do you know when to water? How do you water?

I just keep it damp until it sprouts.

When do you transplant?

As soon as they sprout they get planted in solo cups.

How's that?


Thanks @InTheShed for providing these detailed instructions

 

[stardawg17]

Method 3: coco coir - Burpee Self-Watering Seed Starter System

Step 1: Kit Preparation​

Place watering mat (black side up) over black tray insert (flat side up) and allow mat to drape over both ends evenly. Next, prepare tray by placing one Burpee growing pellet per plant cell on top of the self-watering mat and tray insert. Slowly add hot tap water over the growing pellets so they expand. Growing Pellets will expand to fill each plant cell in approximately one minute.

Step 2: Planting Seeds​

Sow 1-2 seeds into each cell following the seed packet instructions. It is recommended that you group seeds with similar temperature, moisture and light level needs within the same system. Once sowing is complete fill the bottom reservoir with water to the level where the water reaches the top of the mat. Place greenhouse dome on top of the plant tray. (Note: Place kit in a location near sunlight or under grow lights and in which the kit does not need to be relocated often).

Step 3: Transplanting seedlings​

Once seedlings start to emerge, remove the greenhouse dome and place seedlings in a sunny location or under grow lights. Continue to water when the reservoir is low. To transplant, use your finger or a ½" dowel to push the seedlings up and out of the bottom of the plant tray. Gently set the root block into the soil according to the seed packet instructions.

Helpful Tips:​

Light: Healthy seedlings require good light, preferably 14-16 hours of light. Adjustable growing lights are recommended when starting seedlings indoors. Keep lights approximately 3" or more above seedlings.
Plant Food: to keep your seedlings well nourished, a diluted solution of liquid plant food may be added to the watering tray.
Transplanting: For best transplanting results take the kit outside during day-light hours (once frost date is past for your area) for approximately 4 days. Then, take the kit out for approximately 3 more days and leave out over night. This will harden off the plants and allow easier removal of the seedlings from the growing kit cells.

 

[stardawg17]

Just dropped 7 seeds from Herbie's... 3 Purple Queen / 4 Northern Lights. Once the grow gets going I'll post more details on the strains.

For Method 1 I mixed the nutes w/ Super Thrive and pHed the solution to 6.4. The Dyna-Gro I have on hand is a little stronger than Billy Dakid recommended so I mixed it at 85 PPM. After adding the Super Thrive and pH up I'm at 125.

The rapid rooters are soaking...

The seeds were closed into the dark tent so I put my sentry on duty.

Tomorrow night they'll get split up into their respective starter systems.

 

[InTheShed]

 

[stardawg17]

Method 1:

Purple Queen on L Northern Lights on R
I deviated slightly from the instructions by using plain tap water in the tray. Since it's only purpose is to add humidity inside the dome I couldn't see any reason for having nutrients in the tray.

Method 3:

Northern Lights to the rear and Purple Queen in front. Unfortunately, when I pulled the trigger on this system on Amazon I didn't know it comes in smaller sizes. I put my extra rapid rooter plugs in to fill the empty holes as I figured it was designed for 72 seeds not 3. Anyway, it should help retain humidity inside the dome.

The light manufacture recommends distance of 6-9 inches above seedlings. It's at about 7 1/2.

 

[stardawg17]

Saw some signs of life yesterday:

Method 1:

Method 2:

Method 3:

 

[stardawg17]

Even More this morning...

Method 1:

Method 2:
The one on the right with more of a tail is the Northern Lights.

Method 3:
And we have another quick sprouter. Another Northern Lights.

 

[stardawg17]

And tonight:

Method 1:
The Northern Lights is standing tall but doesn't appear to want o take her helmet off. This setup really holds in the moisture. If I take off the lid I'll need to figure out another light source and I actually don't have another fixture lying about so I may need to head up to the local Ace.

Method 2:

Nothing really to report here. Temp is hovering right about 80F.

Method 3:

The cotyledon looked a little droopy so I raised the light to about 9". Also, I noticed the empty rapid rooters (I like to call em brownies) looked like they were drying out so I pushed down in their holes real good. Another weird thing is the water doesn't appear to distribute very evenly.

I also added more water to the tray and poured a little water over the top of the self-watering mat too. That mat really doesn't appear to transfer much water to the top. The bottom of it is fairly soggy, but the top doesn't seem too permeable. Never seen anything like it. Anyway my little sprout looks promising.

No real movement noticed from any of the Purple Queen seeds except the tiny tail coming out of that last seed that went into the starter plug for method 2 this morning.

 

[InTheShed]