Stix Test Grow

Re: StiX' Test Grow

yeah...i'd say it's nute burn...your nute PPM is at 850...and they're still really young. There are some plants that are strong enough from seed to survive the nute strength...like the one you have. I think mine are short because I ran full nutes the first week I popped them in the rockwool. Then i dropped it down to half strength...cuz i realized this is prolly how i turned out with MiniWeed to begin with. It's really best not to use ANY nutes until after a few weeks to a month of vegging...from what i've read. Right now my plants are 32 days old, and i'm running on half nutes... so I'm at like 590 PPM right now. I just started flowering yesterday...so after a week or two into flowering i'll bring my nutes up to full strength...and then back down to NO nutes for the last 2 weeks of flowering so i can flush them out...

Also since they seem to be getting more exposure to water & nutes...i think i read earlier...8 hours total a day. mine only get 3 hours a day...but i'm running ebb & flow...so i don't know what the recommendation is for the rainforest. Typically from what i've read...either the following 2 schedules work best. Either 3 times a day for 1 hour....or 10-15 minutes every hour and a half to two hours. this allows the roots to get saturated...and then when the water is released..they get oxygen the whole length of the root.

prolly doesn't matter though...because other methods just leave the roots constantly soaking in moving water...who knows...but that's my two cents.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

hey blazintrees have you ever heard of this prob? someone on another forum said this

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It's not nute burn your suffering from my friend, it looks to me like your suffering a magnesium deficiency. If it was nutrient burn then just the tips of the leaves would be turning brown, not inbetween the veins like yours are.

You haven't mentioned whether you have added any Epsom Salts to your nute mix, I would highly recommend that you add some to give your plants a good magnesium boost, read the packaging to attain the correct dosage for your system.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

ok, I've done alot of researching on the problem my plants are having. I may have caused the problem myself. I put PH down in my resevoir, but for some reason it went to low. it was around 4.5. So I added PH up to get it to around 5.6 - 6. Apparently that is not good to do. It is recommended to do a total nute change if this occurs. I found a post about magnesium and ph and how it affects your plants. I'll post it here, if the mods wanna move it to growing problems section they can.

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PH & Magnesium Deficiency

Hello everyone! :D

It has come to my attention that some advice I was giving out was incorrect. :eek: In particular, my advice about Magnesium Deficiency and Epsom Salt. When I first started growing I was told (at another site that will remain nameless :rolleyes: ) that Marijuana had very high needs for Magnesium and most hydro nutrients didn't have enough. So adding Epsom Salt was the trick to keeping Magnesium Deficiency away. So for every grow since then I've used Epsom salt, and I have advised others to do the same. :D

Well, The other day Ozgrowa informs me that, that is incorrect. :eek: Well, I was shocked to say the least. He informed me that a low PH usually 'locks out' Magnesium and most hydroponic nutrients have plenty of it.... And some have too much. ;)

So, being the computer geek that I am.. I immediately started researching this and found him to be quite correct. ;)

Here is the truth about Magnesium Deficiency :D

First let's start off defining a few terms. ;)

Magnesium (Mg)- is essential to photosynthesis in plants. It's the "main molecule" in chlorophyll, the green coloring in green plants! Photosynthesis is the process by which plants use the sun's energy to create carbohydrates. Without magnesium, plant leaves turn yellow (usually at the bottom) and will soon die.

PH- is measured on a scale of 1-14 with 7 being "neutral". Acids are lower than 7 and alkalis (bases) are above 7. To be technical, the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen-hydroxyl ion content of a solution. Solutions ionize into positive and negative ions. If the solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions then it is an acid (1-6.9 on the pH scale). Conversely if the solution has more hydroxyl ions than hydrogen it is alkaline (or base), with a range of 7.1-14 on the pH scale.
Pure water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (OH-) ions and is therefore pH neutral (pH 7). When the water is less than pure it can have a pH either higher or lower than 7.

Why should you care about any of this? :lol:

When the pH is not at the proper level marijuana will lose it's ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for healthy growth. For all plants there is a particular pH level that will produce optimum results. Marijuana likes it's hydroponic solution to be 5.5 to 6.1. Although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH of 5.0 to 7.5.

If the pH is too high, marijuana suffers from a lack of iron, zinc, manganese, copper and boron. If the pH is too low, it lacks phosphoric acid, calcium, and magnesium. At lower pH (more acidic) ranges, diseases can thrive. Normally, plants tend to take up more acidic elements, causing pH levels to increase or drift up the scale.

Now, from my understanding of this is, you should let your hydroponic solutions 'drift' up to 5.9 to 6.0 to allow the Magnesium to be available without the addition of Epsom salt (which results in EDTA lockouts because we are adding too much Magnesium.)

Please correct me if I'm wrong on this Oz. ;)

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I think that summizes the situation very well st0ney, good job with that man!

Id also say that the whole system of nutrients is a delicate balance of +ve and -ve ions, adding a certain element such as Mg usually has the effect of altering the potential with a sudden and drastic availability of the element within solution, the plant uptakes this solution and the problem is further compounded as the plant goes further away from centre...I have read so many growers say "wow the plants have gone really green bafter I added the Epsom Salts" (excess Mg symptoms) then a few days later its "my plant has stopped growing and is starting to yellow in the leaves" (Iron lockout).... as a further example or approach to the overall picture of nutrient solutions think of ph correction....adding ph up (+ve ions) to a solution that you have added too much down ie acid (-ve) to, it shouldnt be done, the whol solution should be dicarded. As it is in DWC, NFT, Dripper,etc etc in hydroponics, if we discard and completly replace our solutions regularly (and use a hydroponics nutrient to begin with) deficiencies will become non existant. Occasionally, and I mean occasionally we will need to add a slight amount of Mg, and it should be fractional, but this should be such a rare situation if the other practises are correct.

Ph drift is a great thing, letting it climb to 5.9- 6.1 isnt going to have an adverse effect whatsoever, in fact the inverse is true, the rise will permit correct iron, potassium and phosphorous uptake and prevent the deficiencies that people claim to be experiencing. This is especially the case during flowering, the PH rise will result in slightly more P being absorbed so the constant battle to keep the PH at 5.5 or even lower I think is a little futile.

Oz

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So I guess that if you use hydro nutes there is really no reason to add Epsom Salts unless you see definite signs of Mg deficiency. And even if you do, the pH is more than likely causing a nute lockout problem rather than an actual lack of Mg. So the bottom line is that Epsom Salts are an unnecessary addition to our hydro systems, right?

I guess the amount of Epsom Salts that have been recommended must not be enough to cause significant harm (or we all probably would have noticed by now) but I will be happy with one less ingredient to worry about.

Thanks to St0ney and OzGrowa (The 'Nute Masters :) ) for setting the record straight!

Oh yeah, awsome work on the chart St0ney! :D
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

I put 16 gallons of water in my sink last night incase I would have to change the nutes. Lucky me! I hope that my putting ph down and up in the resevoir had an adverse affect to my plants. changing the nutes should fix the prob. However, I am gonna take blazintrees advice and lower the PPM to about 600, that shouldnt hurt anything. in a week or so I'll bring it back up. If I have the same problem then I'll know blazin was right :grinjoint: AH yes, the importance of a TEST GROW!
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

I just changed the nutes again. I took blazintree's advice and lowered them a little.
Florabloom 2.5 ML/gallon same as before
Floragrow 8 ML/gallon was 12.5 ML/gallon
Floramicro 5 ML/gallon was 7.5 ML/gallon
Hygrozym 8ML/gallon (I just started this today, it's suppose to be some kick ass shit according to the hydro store) I bought it way back but wasnt gonna use it till the (good) grow.

PPM 560 It was 850 PPM (which is ok for veg, I may have started it to soon, It may have still been a seedling, not sure when a seedling is not a seedling anymore. How many leaves/branches does it have to have to not be a seedling anymore?

Water Temp 72 F was 78 F (it will rise to that in a short time)
PH 5.5 was 5.8/6.1
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

stix said:
I put 16 gallons of water in my sink last night incase I would have to change the nutes. Lucky me! I hope that my putting ph down and up in the resevoir had an adverse affect to my plants. changing the nutes should fix the prob. However, I am gonna take blazintrees advice and lower the PPM to about 600, that shouldnt hurt anything. in a week or so I'll bring it back up. If I have the same problem then I'll know blazin was right :grinjoint: AH yes, the importance of a TEST GROW!

well the magnesium defficiency seems to be the culprit in the case...looking at the symptoms. Nute burning does typically take place at the tips of the leaves and work their way back down...so it doesn't look like you're leaves were burning in this pattern. I know i had a little nute burn because some of the tips of my leaves started yellowing and turned brown...But still lowering the nutes at this point in the growth is fine...it's during that strong vegging period..and most of the flowering period that the nutes should be full strength to boost your plant to good yeilds. but yeah thank goodness for this being the test grow....wouldn't want to be fuggin up all those beautiful fem seeds you spent a grip on now would we?
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

well mine started to do that to with the yellowing and nute burning, but i was watering them kinda to much so i asked a good friend of mine and he said to water the plants for 15min 3 times a day and they're healthy and growing better than ever and i might start flowing this week :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

but were 80 percent of your roots swimming in nutes 24/7? I think the rainforest is a little different then most hydro systems. It's basically sucking up nutes all the time. When the rainforest kicks on its just misting the entire root system inside the cups as well.

Also, The main stem looks fine on the plants. But the leaf stems are purple in color. Is that bad?

One more thing. The rainforest has (6) 3 hole inserts that sit in the actual top of the rainforest. In the beginning I would take 1 of them out to see how the roots were doing while the mister was on. I noticed alot of mist came out of the hole. I'm sure some of the nutes made it to the leaves of the plants. Would this cause them to burn?
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

Yeah it looks some what like PH fluntuation. Keep ph steady around optimal. May be magni diff. I would keep checking my ph and just drop the nutes a tad bit like you did.

What iwas going to say was that some of your plants look overwatered. That is what sucks in hydro systems. If you grow different strains in one system some will have different water and nute requirments.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

O i forgot your above post. The stem of the leaf is sometimes normally purple. Are the viens of the leaf purple?

Yeah the rainforest is an areoponic system. Its a fine mist that is rapidly and very easyly absorbed by the roots. It maybe possible that the mist had burned the plant. Look up nutrient solution burn.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

so, its not a good idea to grow 3 different strains in one hydro system? That would suck! I know some strains differ on harvesting times. Seems most are the same in my assortment of strains. I would have to flush the system out a week in advance before harvesting. What if say white widow is ready to harvest and uhmmm. blueberry and skywalker isnt. could I flush out the system and then re-nute the blueberry and skywalker? The more I think about it the more I think I should grow 1 strain. Any ideas?
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

The reson I said is because some strains are light feeders were if they have too much nutes they burn. Then you can have a high feeder were it needs alot of nutes. How wold you have the both in the same system.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

I don't know. I'm suprised nobody has mentioned this before. My plan was to grow 3 different strains at the same time in the same system. This puts a damper on the whole (good) grow. Most of the strains I ordered come in a quantity of 10, I'm growing 18 at a time, Sigh. I may have to grow a few Mothers, keep them in veg and clone the hell out of them. I dunno, we'll see if any other ideas come about.

thanks for the heads up though smokey!

On a different note, how much weight should I expect to get from 18 White Widow? roughly 3 feet high.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

I would sy somewere around a pound. Maybe a couple oz more.

About the strains. I would set up a few mothers. Then I would get a couple clones of each and put them in the system. Try to see if the strains have compatible nutrient requirments.
 
Re: StiX' Test Grow

1 or 2 ounces is an average yeild per plant. 3 feet is average hight. You may get more due to hydroponics, nutrients, training or clipping. YOu could probably use a few more 400 w hps in there.
 
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