Strange looking leaves on Super Skunk - DIY Cree LED Grow

[alex69nos]

Hi everybody i've assembled a cree cbx 3070 and i'm vegging a SS. I'll add another cree led on flowering stage.
I've some problems with some leaf can u give me some advice?

Seed: Sensi Seeds Super Skunk
Soil: Bio Bizz Light Mix
Humidifier: Pro Mist 4
Box: 50 x 100 x 150
Nutes: Advanced Nutrients Organic Iguana Grow

 

[Kingsnake235]

the curling leaves look like heat/light stress, and the tearing leaves could be a pH imbalance or nutrient issue, i can't say for sure.

if you tell us some more about your grow, someone might be better able to assist you.

how old is this plant?
how far away is the light from its top?
what are the temperature and relative humidity in your cabinet?
how often are you feeding and watering, and how much nutrient are you using?
do you have ventilation and air circulation in your cabinet?

hopefully this information will help someone to make a diagnosis.

 

[alex69nos]

the curling leaves look like heat/light stress, and the tearing leaves could be a pH imbalance or nutrient issue, i can't say for sure.

if you tell us some more about your grow, someone might be better able to assist you.

how old is this plant?
how far away is the light from its top?
what are the temperature and relative humidity in your cabinet?
how often are you feeding and watering, and how much nutrient are you using?
do you have ventilation and air circulation in your cabinet?

hopefully this information will help someone to make a diagnosis.

she's 22 days old;
20 cm from the top;
24°C 70% RH day 19°C 80% RH night
i fed her the 1st time 3 days ago with 2 mL of Advanced nutrients organic iguana grow juice;
yes i've two fan one takes fresh air from outside and the other one extracts air from the grow room

Thank you

 

[Kingsnake235]

ok, about 7" from the top.

I've haven't used these type of lights yet, but i think that may be a bit too close. What size is your grow space? Can you raise the light?

Do you take your temps from the soil level or canopy level?

your humidity is a bit higher than i am used to, what's it like without the humidifier? Can you just turn it down to make it ~50-60%?

How often do you water?

I haven't used those nutrients, but if you're following the directions (usually people start with 1/4-1/2 recommended and work up to it) then thats probably ok.. maybe even a bit late. Do you check the pH of your water, before feeding and after it runs out the pot? if not, you should investigate that as well.

if its a small space you may not need the intake fan, but do you know what size the fans are? make sure the larger one is on the output if they are different sizes.

lots of questions i know, haha, but like i said, the more information the better.

---

Im no expert, but personally, i would start with a hand test, then check the temp/RH at the canopy. I won't be surprised if you find its hotter than you think, in which case, i'd move the light up at least 5 inches and do the same test in a couple hours. If the canopy temp is good, (21-26C) then either turn off or turn down the humidifier until its between 50-60%, or turn off the intake fan and check in 30 minutes. Its important to only make one gradual change at a time, so you can know what to change back in case it doesn't work.

either way, once the canopy temp is stable and comfortable and the humidity is down, i'd watch it for 3-4 days and wait for improvements. If it doesn't get worse and the new growth looks good, problem solved; If no improvement or the problem worsens, hit the forum again.

Check the pH of your local water, so you know whats going into your pots. 7 is as high as you want it to be ideally, 6.5 is better, 6.3 or 6.8 are ok too. Next watering check before it goes in and after it comes out, to check the pH of your soil, which is most effective between 6.3-6.8

pH and nutrient uptake charts

It looks like you may have a bit of overwatering droop going on there too, so make sure you let them dry out well. There is a link in my signature that i found very useful for learning how to water effectively.

 

[alex69nos]

ok, about 7" from the top.

I've haven't used these type of lights yet, but i think that may be a bit too close. What size is your grow space? Can you raise the light?

Do you take your temps from the soil level or canopy level?

your humidity is a bit higher than i am used to, what's it like without the humidifier? Can you just turn it down to make it ~50-60%?

How often do you water?

I haven't used those nutrients, but if you're following the directions (usually people start with 1/4-1/2 recommended and work up to it) then thats probably ok.. maybe even a bit late. Do you check the pH of your water, before feeding and after it runs out the pot? if not, you should investigate that as well.

if its a small space you may not need the intake fan, but do you know what size the fans are? make sure the larger one is on the output if they are different sizes.

lots of questions i know, haha, but like i said, the more information the better.

---

Im no expert, but personally, i would start with a hand test, then check the temp/RH at the canopy. I won't be surprised if you find its hotter than you think, in which case, i'd move the light up at least 5 inches and do the same test in a couple hours. If the canopy temp is good, (21-26C) then either turn off or turn down the humidifier until its between 50-60%, or turn off the intake fan and check in 30 minutes. Its important to only make one gradual change at a time, so you can know what to change back in case it doesn't work.

either way, once the canopy temp is stable and comfortable and the humidity is down, i'd watch it for 3-4 days and wait for improvements. If it doesn't get worse and the new growth looks good, problem solved; If no improvement or the problem worsens, hit the forum again.

Check the pH of your local water, so you know whats going into your pots. 7 is as high as you want it to be ideally, 6.5 is better, 6.3 or 6.8 are ok too. Next watering check before it goes in and after it comes out, to check the pH of your soil, which is most effective between 6.3-6.8

pH and nutrient uptake charts

It looks like you may have a bit of overwatering droop going on there too, so make sure you let them dry out well. There is a link in my signature that i found very useful for learning how to water effectively.

i take the temp over the canopy near the light;
i give her water every 4-5 days the ph is 6.7

 

[Kingsnake235]

cool, pH should be fine - is that water in or water out? test your runoff pH as well; and if you're checking temps at the canopy then thats good.

water 4-5 days sounds ok, as long as its getting dried out well between waterings - what size pot? - but if the plants are drooping down like that after watering and stay droopy for more than a day, you've likely watered too soon. Are there holes in the bottom of your container?

Besides that, my other suggestion stands - back the light off a bit (maybe 3") bring down the RH to ~60% and wait a few days.

unfortunately the damaged leaves won't repair themselves, so you have to wait for new growth to see if the issue has abated.

is your intake fan by any chance blowing right on the leaves that are bent downwards and split? if so, try turning it off for a while; i noticed my plants dont like having a constant breeze on them when they were young.

beyond that I'm not sure what else to say at this point.

I have read that too much chlorine can cause your leaves to split, but haven't seen a confirmed image of that happening.
If you can find a water report for your city, that may shine light on the chlorine content of your water - leaving your water in the sun or in an open container for 24 hours will help lower or eliminate the chlorine if present.
My city uses Chloramine, which is similar, but different.

From what i understand leaves curling down is typically overwatering or Nitrogen deficiency; edges curling up is typically light/heat related, and then the splitting/twisting is pH or chlorine related. Which is where my suggestions come from

 

[alex69nos]

the pH is of the water that i give, do u mean i've to test the water that runs out off the bottom of the pot?;
i've backed the light now and turned off the humidifier (about 60% RH now during day);
yes the fan blows directly on the plant but not on the damaged side so i don't think that is the problem;
i let a cup of water for a few days and its ph was about 8 instead the water directly from the tap is about 7 why do u think this happened?

Greetings

 

[Kingsnake235]

… do u mean i've to test the water that runs out off the bottom of the pot?

yeah, this is how we get an idea of the pH of the soil. When you put in 7 pH, the soil effects a change in it because it takes what it needs and the pH is altered.

I recently had pH issues, using 7pH water in, it was coming out at around 4pH, so i used a pH up to make my water 8pH and flushed it with lots to correct the pH of the soil until it was back to 6.5. Im not recommending you do this, just explaining a bit how it works.

i've backed the light now and turned off the humidifier (about 60% RH now during day)

cool, leave it that way for a couple days and see how the plant responds and where your canopy environment stabilizes at; then adjust one or the other if necessary.

yes the fan blows directly on the plant but not on the damaged side so i don't think that is the problem;

thats good, i'd agree, it was just a thought - they do need some circulation after all.

i let a cup of water for a few days and its ph was about 8 instead the water directly from the tap is about 7 why do u think this happened?

i'm no scientist, but its probably because the chemical composition of the water has changed due to impurities like chlorine being evaporated increasing the potential hydrogen capacity of the water - pH.

next time you water or feed, whatever is next for you, measure the pH of your base water, whether its from the tap or been left out;
then add your nutrients and check it again, this is where you want it to be around 6.5-7, I understand the reason being that you want your soil to be around 6.5 and watering with 6.5-7 allows the soil to drift down through the range of 6.3-6.8 where the most nutrients are absorbed, until you water again and repeat the process.

when you get runoff water, measure the pH of that as well.
I sometimes measure the first, middle and last water that runs off, cause I'm not sure exactly which reading is more important, but unless you're flushing to correct pH they should all have fairly similar readings.

runoff should measure around 6.5 +/- 0.3

the chart i posted above is a handy one that many people refer back to

 

[rhetorrikz]

Dam. Looks like you have a few problems there.
Starting with ph and temps .. then possible overwatering
Also the reflective material? And air exchange?
Are your dimentions inches or cm?
You havent really given much info.

 

[alex69nos]

Dam. Looks like you have a few problems there.
Starting with ph and temps .. then possible overwatering
Also the reflective material? And air exchange?
Are your dimentions inches or cm?
You havent really given much info.

i give her water each 4-5 days, and the pH of the water is 6.6;
the box is surrounded by mylar as u can see, and there's a 120 mm extractor fan and a fan tht blows directly on the plant;
centimeters

Greetings

 

[alex69nos]

yeah, this is how we get an idea of the pH of the soil. When you put in 7 pH, the soil effects a change in it because it takes what it needs and the pH is altered.

I recently had pH issues, using 7pH water in, it was coming out at around 4pH, so i used a pH up to make my water 8pH and flushed it with lots to correct the pH of the soil until it was back to 6.5. Im not recommending you do this, just explaining a bit how it works.



cool, leave it that way for a couple days and see how the plant responds and where your canopy environment stabilizes at; then adjust one or the other if necessary.



thats good, i'd agree, it was just a thought - they do need some circulation after all.



i'm no scientist, but its probably because the chemical composition of the water has changed due to impurities like chlorine being evaporated increasing the potential hydrogen capacity of the water - pH.

next time you water or feed, whatever is next for you, measure the pH of your base water, whether its from the tap or been left out;
then add your nutrients and check it again, this is where you want it to be around 6.5-7, I understand the reason being that you want your soil to be around 6.5 and watering with 6.5-7 allows the soil to drift down through the range of 6.3-6.8 where the most nutrients are absorbed, until you water again and repeat the process.

when you get runoff water, measure the pH of that as well.
I sometimes measure the first, middle and last water that runs off, cause I'm not sure exactly which reading is more important, but unless you're flushing to correct pH they should all have fairly similar readings.

runoff should measure around 6.5 +/- 0.3

the chart i posted above is a handy one that many people refer back to

the only problem is tht i don't have runoff water for coz the pot is 25 L and when i water i add just 1 L for now wht do u think?

 

[Papageno]

Yeah but what he is saying is that isn't working. It is clear in the pics that you have a few nute deficiencies that are commonly related to pH. There also appears to be overdosing of nitrogen but that may actually just be the Humidity problem.

There is more than one thing wrong here and it isn't just the nutes being off. So the fix is kind of step back and think about what is going on in there.


I would start with a pile of Cal / Mag after a good pH'd flush (since there is clear Magnesium Def). I can't find the ingredients of that bag online but the description sounds like it is a soilless mix which would mean you want to run the pH much lower.

 

[escutobelchio]

Can we have more info about you diy led? Do you have another topic to explain the led?

 

[Papageno]

Actually I was thinking about this a bit while waking the dog and I think I see the problem. It would appear that you just opened up a bag and stuck a plant in there. that is not a good idea for many reasons.

The most basic thing in watering in that type of medium is you need 20% run off each time. So do you have holes in the bottom of the bag allowing for good drainage and can you measure the pH of your runoff?

I suspect there is too much water at the bottom of the bag creating rot and a toxic mess down there. It is shifting the pH way low causing the magnesium problems.

 

[alex69nos]

Can we have more info about you diy led? Do you have another topic to explain the led?

It's a Cree CBX 3070 BB 3500K (~50W consumption) simply mounted with 2 holders on a Artic Cooler 11 plus cpu fan and powered by a Meanwell driver

 

[alex69nos]

Actually I was thinking about this a bit while waking the dog and I think I see the problem. It would appear that you just opened up a bag and stuck a plant in there. that is not a good idea for many reasons.

The most basic thing in watering in that type of medium is you need 20% run off each time. So do you have holes in the bottom of the bag allowing for good drainage and can you measure the pH of your runoff?

I suspect there is too much water at the bottom of the bag creating rot and a toxic mess down there. It is shifting the pH way low causing the magnesium problems.

yes i think u'r right...coz for now i don't have runoff..i water with only 1 L and the pot is 25L with holes at the bottom ofc

 

[Kingsnake235]

I see village idiot is helping you, my work here is done.

do whatever he says.

 

[alex69nos]

I see village idiot is helping you, my work here is done.

do whatever he says.

i'm very interested in ur opinion too...if u have time obviously!
take a look now wht do u think?
25 days from germination, 18/6
when do u think i can switch to 12/12?

 

[alex69nos]

Actually I was thinking about this a bit while waking the dog and I think I see the problem. It would appear that you just opened up a bag and stuck a plant in there. that is not a good idea for many reasons.

The most basic thing in watering in that type of medium is you need 20% run off each time. So do you have holes in the bottom of the bag allowing for good drainage and can you measure the pH of your runoff?

I suspect there is too much water at the bottom of the bag creating rot and a toxic mess down there. It is shifting the pH way low causing the magnesium problems.

take a look now wht do u think?
25 days from germination, 18/6
when do u think i can switch to 12/12?

 

[Papageno]

I would wait until the plant is minimum looking healthy. The leaves should be standing up not sagging. Going into bloom all stressed out like that is a recipe for disaster.