Supersoil Variant - 3 Strains - 18 Liter - Soil - 250/400 HPS - 2014

Thread starter #1
Hello Folks
I'm posting this thread only half a way my budding cycle but I will write a few posts with pictures to track the developments since the beginning


What strain is it? 1 Northern Light (100% indica) White label, 1 White Widow (60% sativa, 40% indica) Sensiseeds, 1 Kosher Kush (90% indica) DNA Genetics/Reserva Privada
Is it in Veg or Flower stage? Flower
If in Veg... For how long? 50 days
Indoor or outdoor? Indoor
Soil or Hydro? Soil
If soil... what is in your mix? Supersoil variation
If soil... What size pot? 0.3 l, 1.5 litres and 18 litres
Size of light? 250 HPS agro for veg and first 2 weeks of bloom and the 400 HPS
Is it air-cooled? AAW for veg and cooltube for bloom
Temp of Room/cab? 75/89 F - 24/32 C
PH of media or res? About 6.5
Any Pests ? No
How often are you watering? 0.5/0.7 L every 3 days
Type and strength of ferts used? No fertilisation, only compost tea

MY GROWROOM

Grow Secret J 65cmx65cmx17cm (3ftx3ftx6ft)
Ballast Lumatek 250W/400W
Digital timer
Extractor: 355 mc/h (208 cf/min) + carbon filter about the same size
Humidifier
Higrostat
1 small fan
3 axial fans


SUPERSOIL VARIANT


Peat soil 12.5 Kg (25 lb)
Humus 2.7 Kg (5.5 lb)
Organic N-P-K (made of chicken manure, bone meal, castor bean) 200 gr (1/2 lb)
Bone meal 1/2 cup
Lime dolomite - 1 spoon
Oat meal - 1/2 cup
Rockdust 1/2 cup
Humic acid - 1/2 spoon
5 crushed egg shells
3 orange shells (just to improve the smell since I'm doing tho sin my apt)
1/2 spoon kelp
8 liters coco coir (hidrated)
10% in volume of aquarius rocks (white granite)
25% perlite

I didn't add Epson salts at the beginning but I did it half a way because of a deficiency as explained later on

I left all of this baking for 60 days before using it

 
Thread starter #2
I think throughout the whole cycle the EM has been extremely useful. It lowered automatically my pH. EM works in such a way that microorganisms decompose the nutrients in a way that they can be readily available to the plants. I've been watering my plants with activated EM about once every 3 weeks together with molasse (3 spoons every 1.5 litres).

 
Thread starter #4
On the 20th day since emergence I put them on the final pot (18 l/about 5 gals). This has probably been a mistake. I should have had at least another middle pot of 5 litres (1.5 gals) and then 10 litres (2.5 gals) to see if the 18 litres was ok. I think the plants have had a tuff time colonising the whole pot



On day 22nd of veg I started bending them. I may have also done it a bit prematurely.



On the 32nd day they showed some deficiencies on Manganese. I watered with Epson Salt, 2 spoons in 2 litres, and the deficiency was gone in a few days.



On the 42th day of vegetation (49th day since emergence) I switched to 12/12. I thought they were a bit small to be 49 days since emergence. I think this is because I put them into 18 l pot directly form the previous 1.5 l... If anyone has ideas on why they still were little, please let me know

 
Thread starter #6
I did some gradual pruning during early flowering but on day 19th I did a heavy one as shown in the pic. I may have made a mistake here also. I should have waited until the 3rd week or so.

Before pruning


After pruning


Before pruning


After pruning


Close up
 
Thread starter #8
Day 40 flowering.... Trying to understand how they will look at the final stage... I've read that the NL's buds shouldn't get much bigger and fatter than that... but I hope they'll keep growing of course. Not too sure of the final result

 
Thread starter #9
Harvest day for the Northern Light and White Widow.... 99 grams + 2 gram of a small taste I did a couple of weeks ago for the NL and 101 for the WW... total 202 gr wet (7.1 ounce)... I expect at least 50 gr for the 2 plants (1.76 ounce). I hoped to get to 1 oz per plant but I am not too sure I'll be able to get there... let's see after drying...

 
Nice buds! I do love organic soil, I use a variation of supersoil, I now have some unexpected vermiculture going on! I hadn't intended to have wrigglers in my pots but it honestly never occurred to me the castings wouldn't be treated to remove the cocoons. Be warned if you use worm castings for your humus you may also get as lucky as me!
 
Thread starter #11
man... that's the best.. it means you have a living soil... i tasted my grass this last weekend and the taste was simply AMAZING... no comparison with the regular stuff you buy by unknown people and telling you the truth it is even beating commercial high grade MJ... do you have any recepies to reuse supersoil?
 
I reused the soil from last go and added various things, I don't measure anything, I judge amounts by what I have available, my soil contains ordinary potting compost, worm castings, gypsum, calcium, excelrite, bat guano, chicken manure, rock dust, coco coir, perlite and I bought some mycos stuff but completely forgot to add that lol! Doesn't seem to have to made a difference, my soil is alive without it.
 
Thread starter #13
Congrats man... I love organic weed... people who don't do it have no idea what they'r missing... a bit more work at the beginning but the no/little headaches along the way... please let me know if you have a jornal or any other website where you grow your stuff... I'm always willing to learn new things
 
I wish more people would consider organics, to me it is the way forward, I want the best quality weed packed with terpines, organics will do that and once you have the soil amendments it's so easy compared to using nutes. I don't journal, too paranoid I'm afraid, it took me eons just to pluck up the courage to finally join but if you haven't already checked the high brix grows on here they might be a good read for you, I think the guys name is Dr Bud, lots of really interesting stuff.
 
Thread starter #15
what a coincidence... yesterday another 420 fellow told about high bris grow... i'll make sure to read... where can i find the posts? under which category?
 
It will have been in either the current or completed journals, can't remember which, saying that I'm sure there's more than just one high brix journal but if you go to the journals and put high brix into the search engine hopefully you'll find it. If not try googling Dr buds high brix, I found a lot of the journals via google.
 
Thread starter #17
cool man thanx i' m already checking it out... the only problem I see are the ingredients and quantities... he's nt saying much about that... gives only principles... that's mind bugging... need to do some more reading... if you know of any complete high brix receipt let me know :Namaste:
 
Thread starter #19
I agree... true brix is difficult but I've already learnt one thing: put a lot of Calcium and not too much Magnesium. The relation Ca:Mg must be 10:1


By the way... about you being afraid of posting... I was also afraid but then I realised that if this was really a threat, a lot of people would be cought in this way... but very few or almost none is... otherwise we would know already... I got the key rules not to have problems forms serial growers around this and other forums:
#1. Tell nobody what you'r doing, not even to your best friend. This is the basic rule and should be respected.
#2. Make sure nobody knows about it (odor and visual control, etc)
#3. Don't put yourself in situation that someone can find out
#4. Don't show to anybody that you always have a better grass than them coz they'll figure it out sooner or later.

If you follow these simple rules, you decrease your risk. It is way riskier to get cought by breaking only one of these rules that pasting a journal on 420 Mag in my opinion... Until when MJ will be illegal, unfortunately this is the price we have to pay...


"The Ideal Soil
This chart reflects our current level of knowledge. It has been put together over a period of years from many sources, including a lot of personal experience. It is meant to represent an ideal balance of minerals and trace elements for growing nutritionally perfect food for people and animals, not necessarily the ideal soil for pine trees or rhododendron flowers. It is fine for lawns, though.
If this is your first time on this page, please read why get a soil test, then take a look at the chart below. Scroll down and read the "Caution, Warning. and Introduction" that follows it. It may appear a bit confusing or intimidating at first, especially if you are not familiar with soil chemistry (or any chemistry). Rest assured that it will start to make sense after a while. We have packed a lot of information into this website. Look around, read a few articles. This information is not easy, but we believe it is the most important missing piece in sustainable agriculture and the health of the planet and its inhabitants.
The Ideal Soil
(Agricola’s best guess, version 1.5, April 2007) Based on a standard soil test
[TABLE]Organic Matter (OM)|4% — 10%|Ideally, as humus.
pH|6.0 - 6.5|Not 7.0. Balance the minerals and pH will take care of itself[/TABLE]
Bases (cations) as % of exchange capacity
[TABLE]Calcium (Ca)++|60% — 70%|Ca & Mg together should add to 80% of exchange capacity Magnesium (Mg)++|10% — 20%|Ca & Mg together should add to 80% of exchange capacity Potassium (K)+|3% — 5%|See Phosphorus (P)
Sodium (Na)+|1% — 4%|See Chlorine (Cl)
Hydrogen (H)+|8% — 10%|Exchangeable Hydrogen, not a cation (cat-eye-on). See pH explanation. [/TABLE]
Other major nutrients (anions)
[TABLE]Phosphorus (P)-|Equal to Potassium (K){br}(actual P = actual K)|Needs a highly bio-active soil to keep it available
Sulfur (S)-|1/2 of Phosphorus{br}(up to 200 ppm.)|Needed for synthesis of essential amino acids. Chlorine (Cl)-|1x to 2x Sodium|NaCl, of course, is table salt.[/TABLE]
Minor elements (of Major importance)
[TABLE]Iron(Fe)|Fe: 100-200ppm|Iron and Manganese are twins/opposites/synergists, as are Copper and Zinc.
Manganese(Mn)|Mn: 1/2 x Fe{br}(up to 50 ppm)|Iron and Manganese are twins/opposites/synergists,

as are Copper and Zinc.
Zinc (Zn)|Zn: 1/10 x P{br}(up to 50ppm)
Copper (Cu)|Cu:1/2 x Zn|Keep Copper out of fish ponds.
{colsp=3}all four are bases (cations) +
Boron (B)|1/1000 of Calcium{br}(up to 4 ppm)|Essential for Calcium utilization.[/TABLE]
Trace elements (also of Major importance)
[TABLE]Chromium (Cr)+|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough. Cobalt (Co)+|2-10ppm
Iodine (I)-|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough.
Molybdenum (Mo)+}|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough. Selenium (Se)-|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough.
Tin (Sn)+|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough.
Vanadium (V) +|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough.
Nickel|Essential in small amounts. 1 - 2ppm is enough.[/TABLE]
*Some of the trace elements (e.g. Mo, Se) can be toxic to plants and soil organisms in quantities above 2ppm. Take it easy.
*There are probably 30 or so other elements needed in a perfect soil. They may be found in various soil supplements such as seaweed, sea solids (sea salt), and ancient seabed deposits, e.g. Azomite, greensand, Planters II etc.
Read the notes and explanation below that go with this chart. Please.
Caution, Warning and Introduction to Agricola’s best guess: The Ideal Soil [version 1.5] April, 2007
Do not just go out and buy minerals and throw them on your garden, field, or pasture. Please. Read this:
This chart reflects our current level of knowledge. It has been put together over a period of years from many sources, including a lot of personal experience. It is meant to represent an ideal balance of minerals and trace elements for growing nutritionally perfect food for people and animals, not necessarily the ideal soil for pine trees or rhododendron flowers. It is fine for lawns, though.
In high doses, many mineral elements can be toxic to people, animals, plants and soil organisms. This is true regardless of whether they are in a naturally occurring or a purified, concentrated form. Keep them out of ponds and streams. Any of them, if used in excess, can screw everything up, so let’s take it easy. It is much easier to put them in than to get them back out of the soil.
High levels of some minerals in the soil may inhibit sprouting of seeds. Boron is definitely known to do this. High levels of free minerals (not biologically assimilated) can also “plug up” the vascular systems of young plants, stunting their growth. They may sprout fine but stall out after the first set of true leaves. This seems to be particularly true after adding high amounts of calcium. For these reasons it is best to wait until the minerals are chemically and biologically a part of the soil before starting seeds in it. Transplants usually do fine if you wait a few weeks after adding minerals before replanting them, and we have seen few problems with established plantings, trees, or pastures. Adding minerals in the fall or in the very early spring works best.
If minerals are added directly to potting mixes they need time, like a few weeks, to “settle in” before the potting mix is used. Adding a biological activator such as beneficial bacteria or fungi to the soil will greatly speed up the process.
The mineral concentrations shown on this chart are safe enough once they are assimilated into the living soil. If the chart’s guidelines are followed you won’t end up with too much of anything–many soils naturally contain higher levels of available minerals than the chart calls for.
First of all, primarily, and before anything else, please get a professional soil test. Soil testing is not expensive and most testing labs pride themselves on getting your results back to you quickly, usually within a few days of receiving the soil sample. You must have a soil test before you add any minerals at all. This is not to make us happy, but to ensure your happiness in the long run. You will want to
Preparation

1
know what you started with. And if you insist on adding minerals without a soil test, don’t say we didn’t warn you!
A good soil test will give readings for most of the minerals on this chart and will also tell you the CEC (cation exchange capacity), the TEC (total exchange capacity) and the base saturation percent of Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Sodium and Hydrogen in your soil sample. The soil test should also tell you the amount of Boron, Iron, Manganese, Copper, and Zinc. These are minerals whose function we understand well and it is essential that they all be in your soil in sufficient quantities. You do not need to know the amounts of the minor trace elements to start with (those at the very bottom of Agricola’s chart), and ordinary soil tests don’t measure them anyway.
If you are a very cautious or doubtful person, or the expense seems too great, you may choose not to balance the minerals on the whole farm or the whole garden or pasture at once. Start with maybe one-half of the area and see how things go, or divide it into two or more parts and treat them slightly differently, for instance putting the whole amount called for on one part and only half that amount on the other. And it is always a good idea to leave a small representative area untouched as a control. After a year or so you will enjoy pointing out that area and saying “See, that’s what I started with!”
The mineral balancing process will probably take around three years. As the minerals settle into the soil ecology, some will become available to the plants and soil microorganisms and others may get tied up for a while. Adding a little bit of a badly needed mineral nutrient to the soil may greatly increase microorganism and fungal activity, and may catalyze the release of other previously bound- up minerals. Adding a little copper may make more Zinc available (or less Zinc available). You won’t know until the next soil test.
If you are truly serious about gardening or farming and having the healthiest soil and plants possible you will want to get a soil test once a year. For commercial growers, twice a year, in the spring and in the fall is even better. The spring test will show you what you should apply for this years crop, and the fall test will tell you what to add to settle in over the winter. Calcium and Magnesium, for example, become much more bio-available if they are spread on top of the soil in the fall and allowed to leach into the soil with the winter’s rain or snow.
Ignore the pH. It will self- correct as the minerals are balanced.
Mother Nature and the soil are very forgiving and you do not have to be exact in these proportions. It would be unlikely to find two soil samples taken one foot apart that were identical. The soil test will give you the general idea, and as long as you go slow and take it easy everything will be fine.
In the beginning, pay a lot of attention to Calcium and Magnesium. They are fully as important in the soil as they are in the human body. In a sandy soil with a low exchange capacity you will want about 60% Ca and 20% Mg. In a heavy clay soil with a high exchange capacity, about 70% Ca to 10% Mg. This is because the higher the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium, the looser the soil gets, and as the Magnesium portion gets higher, the soil gets tighter. You want to tighten a sandy soil and loosen a clay soil. Once these two are balanced and in the right saturation they will bring many other things into line and a new soil test will guide you to your next step.
Calcium sources: Sweet lime (calcium carbonate) and gypsum (calcium sulfate) are the preferred sources of calcium. Gypsum will not make your soil more acid, it supplies readily available calcium, and is also a good source of sulfur, an element that is seriously lacking in many soils. Sweet lime supplies carbon as well as calcium. Carbon helps make a soil less sticky. If you already have plenty of carbon in your soil as organic matter, but are low on sulfur, gypsum is a better bet. The various rock phosphates are also significant calcium sources.
As a rule, don’t use Dolomite lime, regardless of what you may have read in various gardening books, unless you are sure that you need Magnesium. Dolomite is a high Magnesium limestone. Using dolomite will tighten the soil, reducing air in the soil and inducing anaerobic alcohol fermentation or even formaldehyde preservation of organic matter rather than aerobic decomposition. If the soil test calls for more magnesium, magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) or K-Mag (also known as Sul-Po-Mag or Langbeinite), are generally safer and quicker acting sources of magnesium than dolomite. Dolomite is an inexpensive source of Magnesium and Calcium, but it is slow acting. Magnesium oxide is the purest and quickest acting Magnesium additive, but is not presently allowed under USDA NOP

organic rules, for some reason. If one is not concerned with being “certified” organic under USDA rules, Magnesium oxide is the best bet. MgO (Magnesium Oxide)is around 50% Mg, a much higher percentage than dolomite lime (13% Mg) or Epsom salts (10% Mg) and it is also a much cheaper source of Mg. If you are not concerned about being “certified by the government”, I would recommend using MgO.
Agricola’s chart says that Phosphorus and Potassium should be equal, but that’s not as simple as it looks. On a bag of fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, the numbers stand for Nitrogen-Phosphorus- K(Potassium), in that order, but they don't indicate pure elements. The N number tells you how much of some type of Nitrogen compound, while the P number actually stands for phosphate, P2O5, and the K number stands for potash, K2O (K is from the German word Kalium, meaning Potassium). Phosphate is 44% Phosphorus, while potash is 83% Potassium. So, one needs about twice as much phosphate as potash for the P and K to be equal. A 10-20-10 or a 2-4-2 fertilizer would have that correct ratio.
If you are going to learn to interpret your own soil test, it is also important to know what form of P and K the soil test results from the testing lab indicate. Most labs give the P number as phosphate, P2O5, so you can take that times .43 and find the actual amount of Phosphorus in your soil. Some give the K number as K2O, some as actual K. Ask the nice person who does your testing which they are using.
Although this chart emphasizes minerals, you would not have much luck trying to grow food in a soil that wasn’t bio-active even if it contained the perfect mineral balance. The goal is to get these minerals into the soil in a biological or at least bio-available form. We add them gradually and let the soil life assimilate them.
In some cases minerals may be added to the compost pile to start the bio-availability process, but we would recommend doing this only if you keep perfect records of exactly how much of what is in which pile. For example, one could mix a 50# bag of rock phosphate into a good sized compost pile , but it would be nice to know just how much Phosphorus, Calcium etc was in the bag to start with, and that it was all in that pile and could be spread over X amount of area.
Know all the ingredients of anything you add to the soil if at all possible. How much Calcium does that phosphate rock have in it? Montana rock phosphate contains around 30% total phosphate (13% actual P) but it also has around 30% Calcium. The Calcium is chemically attached to the Phosphorus in the form of Calcium phosphate. As the Phosphorus is made available by the soil microorganisms, so is the Calcium.
Glacial rock dust, granite dust etc. are great sources of fresh minerals, but they won’t help that much if your soil already contains plenty of the same minerals. Most of them have low enough numbers of the major nutrients that they won’t hurt anything, though, and because they are freshly ground up and sharp grains of rock, they will generally increase the energy level in the soil.
Handy Facts:
The top seven inches of an acre of soil is assumed by convention to weigh two million pounds.
This is referred to as the plow layer, and is where most of the growth happens and where most of the available nutrients are.
So, one part per million (1 ppm) of the plow layer equals two pounds per acre. An acre is 43,560 square feet, or close to 45,000 sq. ft.
A pound is 453 grams, or about 450 grams.
So one part per million = approx. 2 grams per 100 square feet.
"One cannot develop taste from what is of average quality but only from the very best." Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe
Post edited by c-ray on May 2013
 
Thanks for that, it was both fascinating and over my head at the same time, I'm going to have to reread that quite a few times to try and absorb and understand it all.