SweetLeef's Gone Muy Loco! Tijuana EbbnFlow - 4 Autos in Supersoil

[SweetLeef]

Hello

And welcome to my second grow journal!

This journal should be a lot of fun. I am stepping up my game and growing 1 plant basically copying the style of TheCapn and AfricanGrower. and 4 Autoflowers in TGA SuperSoil

Assembly has not yet begun on the ebb and flow, however almost everything has been ordered. The plan is as follows

Ebb and Flow Bucket:

20 gallon res or sterilite tote (bigger than I need, but it was free)

5 gallon HD orange bucket, will be painted black and then white for light reflection and to keep the roots nice and dark

185 GPH submersible water pump

Flood and Drain kit

1/2" and 3/4" tubing black, or gorilla taped so algae doesn't grow in the tubes

Rockwool cubes or croutons will be the media in the largest pot that will fit into the 5 gallon bucket. The #5 3.7gal pot I have is too small for the 5 gallon bucket. If the next larger pot is too big for the bucket, I will use a lid with a hole to hold the pot ala AfricanGrower

A hole will be drilled in the bottom of the bucket for the 1/2" nozzle and a hole in the side near the top of the bucket for the 3/4" nozzle of the flood and drain kit. The pump will move water from the res and begin filling the bucket from the bottom "Flooding" the bucket and soaking the media. Once the water level reaches the 3/4" nozzle, it will drain into the res, once the pump shuts off the water in the bucket will drain back into the res through the fill nozzle. Very simple setup that should produce crazy yield. I will be training the pant during her long veg. and adding a screen once the autos are gone. Looking at around 75-80 days of veg. all depending on the autos. I definitely don't expect to put out a 20 ouncer, but I think with the very long veg time I will produce a very respectable yield despite my lack of experience.


Nutrients and Beneficial Tea:
For Nutes, I am going to give Maxibloom Powder a try. It's supposed to have everything the plant needs. It's supposed to be the equivalent of the Lucas Formula, and it's pretty cheap. I figure I'll give it a whirl and if it doesn't work, I'll just get exactly what TheCapn uses and be fine. I'm not afraid of a little error in my trial

A little information on the Maxibloom Powder:
Total Nitrogen (N) 5.0 %
0.5% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
4.5% Nitrate Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P205) 15.0 %
Soluble Potash (K20) 14.0 %
Calcium (Ca) 5.0 %
Total Magnesium (Mg) 3.5 %
3.5% Water Soluble Magesium
Combined Sulfur (S) 4.0 %
Iron (Fe) 0.1 %
0.1% Chelated Iron(Fe)
Derived from: Ammonium Nitrate, Ammonium
Molybdate, Calcium Nitrate, Cobalt Sulfate, Copper
Sulfate, Iron DTPA, Iron EDTA, Magnesium Sulfate,
Manganese Sulfate, Potassium Borate, Potassium Nitrate,
Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sulfate and
Zinc Sulfate.

If it does what it's supposed to do, I will be using 7g of Maxibloom powder per gallon of ph adjusted water throughout the grow. Plus the beneficial tea.

The Beneficial Tea recipe I chose:

PER GALLON of distilled, aerated or RO water

- 1 tsp (5mL) Mycogrow soluble

- 1 tsp (5mL) ZHO powder

- 3/4 tbsp (11.25 mL) unsulfured molasses

- 1/8 cup (30 mL) Ancient Forest EWC

Strain Information:
In the bucket I will be growing Tijuana by Blim Burn Seeds, that I received as a freebie with my most recent order of seeds. I don't know much about it, Sativa, and it is supposedly a high yielding strain. I've heard Salivas can be a bitch to grow, but if I talk sweet to her I think we'll be alright.

The Autos
The autos will be once again grown in Supersoil, this time in 5 gallon smart pots hoping they will go bigger this time.

As for the Strains, I think I am going with
Smurfberry - Sagarmatha Seeds
Vertigo - Paradise Seeds
Hobbit - Kannabia Seeds
Auto Pounder With Cheese - Auto Seeds

I may change my mind, but it looks good on paper.

As of now, I have ordered most of everything I need, just need to make a quick run to that hardware store for some odds and ends once everything else arrives, then I can assemble and test! After my current grow finishes up in the next couple weeks, I can kick this one off. Due to a bout with The Borg, I have to bomb my place and bleach everything before I can start this grow. Starting this now is just a way to get my plans out of my head and a little more organized.

Thanks for stopping by my Second Journal! I'm really excited about this one! Questions, comments, and suggestions are always welcome! This is going to be a really fun grow and hopefully we'll all learn a lot!

 

[Skybound]

Hey Sweet Leaf, saw your invite on AG's journal and since I also am growing Capn Style, I figured I'd swing by.

Plans look great and I'm eager to see how your nutrients work with the cubes. I do have a few questions and at least one concern to express. First up, what size/type of lighting will you be using? Secondly, how much space do you have to give her (xyz)? My concern for you to consider is that traditional Ebb & Flo systems use hydroton with the roots dangling into a root chamber, but because the roots are too sit in the water for an extended period of time (maybe 30 minutes), people would include an air stone to keep the water very well aerated. With your system (AG's too), you will not have this option, or you may have it, but the aeration will not be the same. My concern is that this might lead to asphyxiation in the root zone. I like that you covered any possible pythium issues by using a compost tea. I too learned the hard way the difference between a sterile and live root zone and will take live now 11 out of 10 times. Does your compost tea recipe have room to add Aqua Shield? Both Heisenberg and The Capn use AS in their teas with great results. I also use Capn's tea and his seedling recipe with my clones and the AS works wonders. If I am not mistaken, I believe the AS has slightly different beneficial bacteria than the other mycorrhizal products which equates to a more diverse army of bennies.

At any rate, I look forward to experiencing your journey with you!

 

[AfricanGrower]

>>> The #5 3.7gal pot I have is too small for the 5 gallon bucket.

I also purchased a set of two 5 gallon 'bottom-mesh' pots with an apparent 12" diameter...these still don't fit the lip of the 5 gallon buckets I have. I wonder where these mysterious "#5 Nursery Pots" that the Capn uses in his grows

>>>A hole will be drilled in the bottom of the bucket for the 1/2" nozzle and a hole in the side near the top of the bucket for the 3/4" nozzle of the flood and drain kit.

Hey, I know my design had the hole at the bottom of the bucket, but I can assure you...stick with the way the Capn has it set up. If I could redo it (which I eventually will), I will drill the holes on the sides of the 5 gallon bucket. I don't know how your setup is going to look, or how the buckets will be propped up, but I can say it is a pain in the a$$ to maneuver and adjust the buckets once they are in place! Between transplants is when I was able to check the bottom of the buckets, and to my surprise, not that much built up salts were at the bottom. If you are flooding more than once a day, then that little bit left over won't do any harm.

>>>The pump will move water from the res and begin filling the bucket from the bottom "Flooding" the bucket and soaking the media. Once the water level reaches the 3/4" nozzle, it will drain into the res, once the pump shuts off the water in the bucket will drain back into the res through the fill nozzle.

Just to firstly say, I am not trying to burst your bubble, or trying to ruin your enthusiasm in your planning, but I only offer what I have learned from adapting the Capn's setup.

That being said, essentially what I took from reading all of his articles is that soaking the ENTIRE medium is the most effective way to get nutrients to the majority, if not all of the root mass. As you know I started with a flood system, then stepped back and forth between flooding and top-feed. I finally have landed on my preference of top-feed for a couple of reasons.

1. It is the most easiest and manageable feeding methods

2. No need for a drain line (chance for flooding or spillage)

3. Easier to to run a 15min recirculation (again, less chance for leaks from pressure)

4. No salt build-up lines. When you flood and drain, the level at which the nutrient drains is where there will be a build up of salts.

In no way do I mean you shouldn't go with the flood and drain, but I, the Capn, Sl1ng, and Sky all are getting the same, if not better results with the top-feed method as well. That I leave to you

>>>Looking at around 75-80 days of veg.

Nice What is the breeders harvest time?

>>>For Nutes, I am going to give Maxibloom Powder a try.

Is this just an 'All-Stage' formula?

>>>I've heard Salivas can be a bitch to grow, but if I talk sweet to her I think we'll be alright.

You'll be just fine mayne It's going to give you the chance to train her to be nice and even on the ScrOG net. (That is the one mistake I have made.) You might want to re-evaluate your total grow time as Sativas are known to be stragglers in harvest

Nice Journal so far man. I'm subscribed of course. Can't wait for this one to kick off

 

[COorganics]

Subbed

Lets see how the hydro works out for a first timer. Reading this cements in my head that I know nothing about hydro. The terminology is like another language. So even if I never apply the knowledge, I am excited to learn, expand the skill set a bit. Thanks for the journal.

Oh yeah and did I mention seeing a big single plant scrog is always awesome.
Get some bud!

 

[SweetLeef]

Hey Sweet Leaf, saw your invite on AG's journal and since I also am growing Capn Style, I figured I'd swing by.

Plans look great and I'm eager to see how your nutrients work with the cubes. I do have a few questions and at least one concern to express. First up, what size/type of lighting will you be using? Secondly, how much space do you have to give her (xyz)? My concern for you to consider is that traditional Ebb & Flo systems use hydroton with the roots dangling into a root chamber, but because the roots are too sit in the water for an extended period of time (maybe 30 minutes), people would include an air stone to keep the water very well aerated. With your system (AG's too), you will not have this option, or you may have it, but the aeration will not be the same. My concern is that this might lead to asphyxiation in the root zone. I like that you covered any possible pythium issues by using a compost tea. I too learned the hard way the difference between a sterile and live root zone and will take live now 11 out of 10 times. Does your compost tea recipe have room to add Aqua Shield? Both Heisenberg and The Capn use AS in their teas with great results. I also use Capn's tea and his seedling recipe with my clones and the AS works wonders. If I am not mistaken, I believe the AS has slightly different beneficial bacteria than the other mycorrhizal products which equates to a more diverse army of bennies.

At any rate, I look forward to experiencing your journey with you!

Hey Sky, glad you could make it! I was hoping you would, you bring a nice perspective to the journals you visit.

I will be starting the grow with a 400w T5. I will run all 8 6500k bulbs until the autos start to flower at which point I will switch out 4 of the bulbs with the 3000k or with an HID if I am able to scare one up by then.

My tent is 5x5x7. Once the autos are out, the EnF plant will have the entire room to her self. Although I am inexperienced, my first grow gave me some idea of what a plant can take, so I will go all LightAddict on her and train her pretty hard until the autos are gone and I can sceen up.

As far as asphyxiation of the roots, I hadn't thought of that. (there's that perspective I was talking about) I'm gonna have to think about that as I don't have an answer at this point

I think that I may have room in the compost tea. The more the merrier right?

Thanks for the questions and concern Sky! I'm really glad you are aonng for the ride

 

[SweetLeef]

>>> The #5 3.7gal pot I have is too small for the 5 gallon bucket.

I also purchased a set of two 5 gallon 'bottom-mesh' pots with an apparent 12" diameter...these still don't fit the lip of the 5 gallon buckets I have. I wonder where these mysterious "#5 Nursery Pots" that the Capn uses in his grows

>>>A hole will be drilled in the bottom of the bucket for the 1/2" nozzle and a hole in the side near the top of the bucket for the 3/4" nozzle of the flood and drain kit.

Hey, I know my design had the hole at the bottom of the bucket, but I can assure you...stick with the way the Capn has it set up. If I could redo it (which I eventually will), I will drill the holes on the sides of the 5 gallon bucket. I don't know how your setup is going to look, or how the buckets will be propped up, but I can say it is a pain in the a$$ to maneuver and adjust the buckets once they are in place! Between transplants is when I was able to check the bottom of the buckets, and to my surprise, not that much built up salts were at the bottom. If you are flooding more than once a day, then that little bit left over won't do any harm.

>>>The pump will move water from the res and begin filling the bucket from the bottom "Flooding" the bucket and soaking the media. Once the water level reaches the 3/4" nozzle, it will drain into the res, once the pump shuts off the water in the bucket will drain back into the res through the fill nozzle.

Just to firstly say, I am not trying to burst your bubble, or trying to ruin your enthusiasm in your planning, but I only offer what I have learned from adapting the Capn's setup.

That being said, essentially what I took from reading all of his articles is that soaking the ENTIRE medium is the most effective way to get nutrients to the majority, if not all of the root mass. As you know I started with a flood system, then stepped back and forth between flooding and top-feed. I finally have landed on my preference of top-feed for a couple of reasons.

1. It is the most easiest and manageable feeding methods

2. No need for a drain line (chance for flooding or spillage)

3. Easier to to run a 15min recirculation (again, less chance for leaks from pressure)

4. No salt build-up lines. When you flood and drain, the level at which the nutrient drains is where there will be a build up of salts.

In no way do I mean you shouldn't go with the flood and drain, but I, the Capn, Sl1ng, and Sky all are getting the same, if not better results with the top-feed method as well. That I leave to you

>>>Looking at around 75-80 days of veg.

Nice What is the breeders harvest time?

>>>For Nutes, I am going to give Maxibloom Powder a try.

Is this just an 'All-Stage' formula?

>>>I've heard Salivas can be a bitch to grow, but if I talk sweet to her I think we'll be alright.

You'll be just fine mayne It's going to give you the chance to train her to be nice and even on the ScrOG net. (That is the one mistake I have made.) You might want to re-evaluate your total grow time as Sativas are known to be stragglers in harvest

Nice Journal so far man. I'm subscribed of course. Can't wait for this one to kick off

Hi AG! Thanks for stopping by, and thank you so much for the advise! I am very fortunate to have the opportunity to learn from what you and others have done, so that I may find new struggles to help the next person.

That's very solid advise about the hole on the bottom of the bucket. As soon as I read that I was like, DUH of course that would make the bucket almost impossible to put anywhere. I will heed your word, my friend.

So with the top feed... I am working all this out in my head while I am typing. I could go look at yours, sky, slings, and the Cap's but I'm gonna see if my brain can do it. So with the top feed, I could set a bucket with a few drain holes on the bottom, over corresponding holes in the lid of the res, and top feed so it would recirculate like that? or would I be top feeding to waste? I could just use the whole 5 gallon bucket as a final pot then couldn't I?

I am a about the path of least resistance and less chance of leakage


Auto Pounder with Cheese 75-80 days
Vertigo 65 days
Hobbit 65 days
Smurfberry 56 days

I may even let the autos pop before I drop the Tijuana

The Maxibloom isn't marketed as an all stage formula, but apparently 7g per us gallon is almost identical to the Lucas formula. and I've read of a couple people on this and other forums that have had great success. Figured I'd give the most simple method a try first.

My grow time is absolutely plant dependent. I am growing the autos so that I don't get antsy and rush the main event. She can straggle all she wants It's her world.

Thanks again AG! I really appreciate your presence on this forum, and of course my journal. I too can't wait for this grow to take off.

 

[SweetLeef]

Subbed

Lets see how the hydro works out for a first timer. Reading this cements in my head that I know nothing about hydro. The terminology is like another language. So even if I never apply the knowledge, I am excited to learn, expand the skill set a bit. Thanks for the journal.

Oh yeah and did I mention seeing a big single plant scrog is always awesome.
Get some bud!

Yeah man, it's a different language for sure. And it's for those who like to tinker, but it's not a overwhelming as it looks once you wrap your head around it. I would probably be very intimidate by hydro, but it was the first thing I started reading about when I decided to get into this.

I hope that we can both learn a lot from this journal. Stoked your checkin' it out!

 

[AfricanGrower]

>>>So with the top feed, I could set a bucket with a few drain holes on the bottom, over corresponding holes in the lid of the res, and top feed so it would recirculate like that? or would I be top feeding to waste? I could just use the whole 5 gallon bucket as a final pot then couldn't I?

Basically the what I'm sure the rest of us growing 'Capn Style' and using top-feed recirculate the drain back into the res bucket where the feed pump is located. In my setup specifically, I ran the bottom drain holes (remember, these holes that I originally drilled on the bottom where used as the fill hole for the Ebb&Flow system) back into the res located outside my grow tent. It only takes a little less than 7.5 gallons of nutrient solution to keep a reasonable level of nutrient flowing through the system without shortage on the pump.

I once top-fed to waste, but I can assure you deficiencies started to arise the following weeks to come. Every time I leave my plants unattended for a period of time, I hook up an automated system that top-feeds to waste. I do this to avoid the daily pH swings that come with using tap water and bacteria. Every time I come back, a slight deficiency is always upon me.

The reason for this is, as the Capn simply puts it, the beauty of the recirculating system through an inert medium like croutons makes the need to check run of pH unnecessary. When we adjust the pH of our res, we are also adjusting the pH of the medium where the root mass can successfully uptake nutrients.

I had thoughts of using the whole 5 gallon bucket as an airpot as the Capn suggested during the time of dire transplant-need. I have a few ideas that I might implement next grow to allow the roots to utilise most of the 5 gallon bucket without the need of a nursery pot. Basically I want to fill the whole 5gal bucket with croutons, then run a Flood and Drain, as well as a Top-Feed system. This will ensure that the whole root mass is watered evenly, and to ensure that there are no build ups in one specific area of the bucket.

Here's a drawing I sketched of my future plans.

>>>I am a about the path of least resistance and less chance of leakage

Well after looking at that pic, the chance of leakage is much greater than running each system independently of each other. But I am willing to see if the challenges are worth the reaping in the end.

Auto Pounder with Cheese 75-80 days
Vertigo 65 days
Hobbit 65 days
Smurfberry 56 days

Nice, So the longest strain is the Auto I see! Which one of these are the photo-period strain you will be growing in the croutons.(Sorry if you mentioned it already, I tried scrolling up and finding it)

I may even let the autos pop before I drop the Tijuana

>>>The Maxibloom isn't marketed as an all stage formula, but apparently 7g per us gallon is almost identical to the Lucas formula.

I have heard of Lucas Formula, I should really research both of these in depth though.

>>>My grow time is absolutely plant dependent. I am growing the autos so that I don't get antsy and rush the main event. She can straggle all she wants It's her world. Thanks again AG! I really appreciate your presence on this forum, and of course my journal. I too can't wait for this grow to take off.

That is great to hear! Hope that you run everything smoother than I had things this past run. Read, Read, Read...and learn from our mistakes

 

[CronicHempHog]

ok subbed Happy Sativaday

 

[SweetLeef]

>>>Well after looking at that pic, the chance of leakage is much greater than running each system independently of each other. But I am willing to see if the challenges are worth the reaping in the end.<<<

That design looks awesome AG! Very awesome indeed!

I was thinking about how our #5 pots slide into the bucket, and since they are lower than the ledge, couldn't one, attempt at least, to line up the drain tube so it's about even with the top of the grow cube line, but still drain before it reaches the tops of the bucket? hopefully causing the water level to be even with or just below the vey top of the croutons, thusly evenly watering everything, but eliminating the need for the top feeder? With a 15 minute timer, I don't see asphyxiation being a problem or ebb and flow probably wouldn't work in the first place? I really don't know. Only one way to find out I guess Alternately, couldn't one use the bucket as the pot and just make the top of the croutons level with or half way to the top of the drain hole? Does that make sense?

I wish I had your drawing skills AG, these kinds of projects and questions would be so much easier if I could draw just a little. Oh well. I just have to really visualize things like this to be able to put them together

As far as the 4 strains, those are all autos and that is roughly their entire life cycle from popping out of the dirt to harvest. Give or take a few days/weeks. The Tijuana is the photo plant that I will be ebbing and flowing for quite some time. I was thinking instead of a tray I would use different lids cut to the different sized pots until I get to the final one that fits the bucket or fits in the bucket, or is the bucket. I don't know. But I cant wait to find out!

Thanks for subbing up Chronic Wouldn't be a Genuine SweetLeef journal without you!

And Canna, wouldn't be genuine without Canna. But, I'm sure she'll be round soon enough

 

[AfricanGrower]

>>>I was thinking about how our #5 pots slide into the bucket, and since they are lower than the ledge, couldn't one, attempt at least, to line up the drain tube so it's about even with the top of the grow cube line, but still drain before it reaches the tops of the bucket?

That is what my pots already do anyway. They slide in deep enough to meet my drain line on my buckets. I would say I have my drain lines drilled 6inches form the top of the buckets.

>>>hopefully causing the water level to be even with or just below the vey top of the croutons, thusly evenly watering everything, but eliminating the need for the top feeder?

That seems logical, yes. But I would want the drain line to be over the whole root mass and croutons(essentially flooding the whole system) so that the water level is sufficiently above the croutons as it drains. Even with a water a level right at the top of the medium, you would still need to top feed every so often to prevent build ups in the top most layer of the root system,

>>>With a 15 minute timer, I don't see asphyxiation being a problem or ebb and flow probably wouldn't work in the first place? I really don't know. Only one way to find out I guess

What I meant by this:

3. Easier to to run a 15min recirculation (again, less chance for leaks from pressure)

was that when running the Ebb&Flow whilst under 15 minutes of recirculation can create back-pressure in the lines, causing a delay in one line or the other. BUT then again this was with my design of two buckets per one pump. You may be right

>>>Alternately, couldn't one use the bucket as the pot and just make the top of the croutons level with or half way to the top of the drain hole? Does that make sense?

YES, it does. Perfect sense. I wish I clarified it in my drawing above, but the croutons fill the entire bucket (without the need for any type of pot) all the way to the top of 5 gal. I was planning on implementing some stainless meshing to prevent croutons or roots from becoming a problem in the system.

>>> I was thinking instead of a tray I would use different lids cut to the different sized pots until I get to the final one that fits the bucket or fits in the bucket, or is the bucket. I don't know. But I cant wait to find out!

I was also thinking this as well for each 'stage of transplant'. I need tp reorganize my grow space, now that I am thinking harder

 

[Skybound]

I did the lid thing with stepping up hole sizes and though it can be done fairly easy with a utility knife (razor blade), I remember wishing at the end that I would've first cut the largest size I was going to fit into the lid, then make inserts to rest on top with all of the smaller diameters. This will make swap outs so much easier. For me, I had to use 2 lids for the swap out as 1 was already holding the grow pot.

I wanted to ask AG is stabbing into the sides of 5gal bucket creates any leaks at the connection? I was fearing this might happen so I just decided to stab in through the flat surface on the bottom facet and support from below with a tilted table to quickly drain. Another option to consider before you conclude and invest is that whatever sized pot you're using, it all can be propped up in the catch basin by and object(s). Before I went with the lids, I was using chopped up propagation trays to keep the pots slightly lifted as all that's needed is a light block and some air.

The point about asphyxiation that I raised was that in traditional E/F systems, and airstone is used at the root zone to aerate the water as the roots dangle in it. I don't know what frequencies you'll be running it at, but if your root mass gets too large, is it possible for them to quickly deplete O2 levels built up in the water before you drain it all back down? Flooding the croutons, is a twist to the traditional E/F, at least the ones I've seen here and other forums and IMO can possibly lead to problems unless it is known that the roots won't deplete that much O2.

 

[SweetLeef]

>>>I would say I have my drain lines drilled 6inches form the top of the buckets.

That is a very nice nugget of info

>>>That seems logical, yes. But I would want the drain line to be over the whole root mass and croutons(essentially flooding the whole system) so that the water level is sufficiently above the croutons as it drains.

Yes, that makes sense

>>> Even with a water a level right at the top of the medium, you would still need to top feed every so often to prevent build ups in the top most layer of the root system.

Using the #5 inside the bucket, would top feeding by hand of the beneficial tea be sufficient to clear away the salt buildup at the waterline? Another thing I guess I'll find out

>>>was that when running the Ebb&Flow whilst under 15 minutes of recirculation can create back-pressure in the lines, causing a delay in one line or the other. BUT then again this was with my design of two buckets per one pump. You may be right

I wonder if your back-pressure could be relieved by adding a breather tube? Something like this, with a screen or something to keep debris and other things out of the system.

>>>YES, it does. Perfect sense. I wish I clarified it in my drawing above, but the croutons fill the entire bucket (without the need for any type of pot) all the way to the top of 5 gal. I was planning on implementing some stainless meshing to prevent croutons or roots from becoming a problem in the system.

Ah, I see. That makes much more sense. That is an even cooler design now that I fully understand what's going on in the picture The pump pushes enough water to just split it off one line? That's convenient Would you need a second drain tube to handle the water coming from the top feeder? I guess you haven't built this yet....

>>>I need tp reorganize my grow space, now that I am thinking harder

I feel like that is at least half of the fun +Reps for helping me think this through

>>>I did the lid thing with stepping up hole sizes and though it can be done fairly easy with a utility knife (razor blade), I remember wishing at the end that I would've first cut the largest size I was going to fit into the lid, then make inserts to rest on top with all of the smaller diameters. This will make swap outs so much easier. For me, I had to use 2 lids for the swap out as 1 was already holding the grow pot.

Man really digging your design, Sky. I was thinking something along the lines of the inserts for a brief second the other day, but I would have forgotten it come time if you hadn't said that. Have some +Reps for reminding me of something I forgot to remember

>>>I wanted to ask AG is stabbing into the sides of 5gal bucket creates any leaks at the connection?

Yes, if I remember correctly, AG did have a little bit of leakage at the beginning that he easily fixed with a little epoxy.

>>>I was fearing this might happen so I just decided to stab in through the flat surface on the bottom facet and support from below with a tilted table to quickly drain.

Any problems with the bucket sliding once the plants and pots got bigger? Any dry spots in the media due to the slant, slight as it is?

>>>Another option to consider before you conclude and invest is that whatever sized pot you're using, it all can be propped up in the catch basin by and object(s). Before I went with the lids, I was using chopped up propagation trays to keep the pots slightly lifted as all that's needed is a light block and some air.

That is something I will definitely consider

>>>The point about asphyxiation that I raised was that in traditional E/F systems, and airstone is used at the root zone to aerate the water as the roots dangle in it. I don't know what frequencies you'll be running it at, but if your root mass gets too large, is it possible for them to quickly deplete O2 levels built up in the water before you drain it all back down? Flooding the croutons, is a twist to the traditional E/F, at least the ones I've seen here and other forums and IMO can possibly lead to problems unless it is known that the roots won't deplete that much O2.

Ah, I see what you are saying. I think that's one of the reasons the rockwool is so favorable to this technique. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think the rockwools sponge-like qualities allow it to soak up and hold onto some water, while trapping air at the same time. So the roots should have air available even if the media is flooded for 30 minutes. Obviously there is a limit. I don't want to be the one to push it, but I think you could be flooded for a while and be fine. Especially if you are running an airstone in res, the water should be carrying some air with it. Of course at this point everything I just said is based on a few things I think I know, and gut instinct

Thanks for the great conversation, boys! This is a nice way for my brain to enjoy my wakenbake

 

[CronicHempHog]

Happy Skunkday Sweet

 

[SweetLeef]

You too Chronic buddy!

 

[AfricanGrower]

>>>Using the #5 inside the bucket, would top feeding by hand of the beneficial tea be sufficient to clear away the salt buildup at the waterline? Another thing I guess I'll find out

Yea, this is what I did when I was using the Ebb&Flow, using the weekly Tea to prevent any buildups. But I would also water by hand whenever I caught the timer before the pump came on. I made that a habit.

>>>Ah, I see. That makes much more sense. That is an even cooler design now that I fully understand what's going on in the picture The pump pushes enough water to just split it off one line? That's convenient Would you need a second drain tube to handle the water coming from the top feeder? I guess you haven't built this yet....

A 185GPH pump will definitely be able to push enough water to feed both lines. The 185 pump pushes enough water to fill 2x 5 gallon buckets using my original Ebb&Flow bucket design. The only issue I had was the initial back-pressure one bucket enacted on the other since one was a little higher up, making it harder to fill. So being that I am only feeding a small top-feed line, OI assume everything should run smoothly.

 

[SweetLeef]

Awesome! I think that's what I'll do for this grow then. Thank's a million, AG You made me understand this so much more when I hadn't yet realized I didn't understand Somehow I missed the whole thing about the salt build up. I'm going on vacation for a week at the end of March. perhaps I'll set up a top feeder for that. Then again, my nephew will be keeping an eye on the grow for me. I think I'll teach him everything he needs to know to keep em going for a week. Mainly DONT TOUCH ANYTHING! If I time my Benies correctly, and I've set things up correctly, he shouldn't need to do anything except look at them every day anyway.

 

[c526]

subbed

my Cap'n experiment went great, I went top feed

second experiment heading into flower now

these 15 gallon totes are perfect, although, if I leave for 4-5 days then I use the 27 gal

 

[SweetLeef]

Thanks for stopping by c526 Glad you are here!

What's with the leaves in the upside down jar on the floor? Just curious

 

[c526]

those are twist ties, inside a mason jar, I use them on the scrog screen



ive enjoyed 4 day weekends with the capns method,hope yours goes as well