The Happy Cola Company's Official Ground Up Medical Cannabis Grow Op

[The Happy One]

This next hurtle probably deserves a thread of it's own, however, in adhering to my "keeping it real" mentality, I'm determined to include whatever real life hurtles we run into, and this one is a doozy.
It is also a long read, but I've done my best to explain the theory. .
I previously had mentioned an issue with our 1 hp (11,000 btu) chiller barely being able to maintain a 69-70 deg reservoir. It IS doing the job, but when we crank the lights up in bloom we are going to run into problems, plus I have several more flower rooms to bring online.
Also, first and foremost money is always the issue and when you don't have a lot of it and refuse to give in, you find a work-around. Here is mine.
I need a 4 ton chiller, and 4 ton chillers aren't cheap so I began to research chillers. Now, I am an HVAC contractor, and know my way around air conditioning blindfolded, but chillers? So I went to calling on chiller manufactures. What I have found out is chiller manufactures don't like sharing their knowledge with the outside world and even tend to size their equipment in KW and not tonnage, and refuse to share trade secets. OK. I get it, but that won't stop me. Google has the ability to provide a crash course in just about anything your heart desires, so I enrolled a few evenings in research and came up with a gameplan.
I'm going to take a used 4 ton Dichlorodifluoromethane (R-22) condensing unit and make a chiller. How hard can it be?
(Not as hard as you may think)
Lemme offer a scenario. In most homes you have a condensing unit that sits outside and a furnace/evaporator inside. The condenser pumps refrigerant into the evaporator with a fan blowing across the evaporator effectively cooling your home. To create a chiller we keep the outdoor section, (the 4 ton condenser) and perform two modifications to it.
1. Add an accumulator. Think of this as two liter sized reservoir placed just in front of the compressor suction line. (the big one) It acts as a liquid reservoir to catch any liquids before the vapor enters the compressor, and can be found on most heat pumps. It's required on heat pumps and chillers because the outdoor unit runs both summer and winter, and in the wintertime the head pressures are far lower than on a hot summer day and liquid refrigerant can migrate back to the compressor....and liquids don't tend to compress that well. This will prevent compressor failure.
2. Add a suction or low side pressure switch. This will cycle off the compressor on very cold days when suction and discharge pressures are too low. (I might incorporate a variable speed controller for the condenser fan motor, as it needs very little air movement across the condenser in the wintertime)

That's it for the outside anyway. Now lets move on to the indoor section. First up, we have NO USE for a furnace, air handler or conventional evaporator which is pretty much EVERYTHING in the indoor section, so what do we do?

We'll put together the parts we need, and it isn't all that much. First thing we need is a thermostat/controller. It's job will be to maintain the 175 gallon reservoir to the mid to low 50's and control the 24 volt signal to the outdoor condensing unit. The far best way I found was to take notes from those fella's that make chillers for home brewing, and that's using one of these.

This little tool cost right at 15 bucks, and will operate the condensing unit as well as maintain temps in the 175 gallon reservoir. It comes with a temp probe, but I purchased a stainless steel version for dependability. It aslo cost about 15 bucks

I also need a way to shut the system down and provide a safety lockout. This solution cost me about 5 bucks on Amazon.

I'll end up gutting the box for the switches, and install them in a scrap piece of aluminum I have for the unit cover.
You don't have to do this step, but I am going to simply because I'm in the mechanical room throughout the day, and I'm seldom outside with gauges connected to the condensing unit, and I like to see how the high and low side pressures are operating at, and do so at a glance, so I'm installing suction and discharge gauges on the indoor control unit. These gauges panel mounted and are liquid filled, far more accurate than my refrigeration gauges.

I may add a few light indicators on the front panel, but besides the chiller evaporator coil. that's about it. I DO have to spring for a chiller evaporator, so I went on the search for one that flowed 4 tons. The first issue I ran into, was they were rated by KW, and not by tonnage so I had to do a little math to find the correct evaporator. The one I've chosen is rated right at 17.5 kw. Converted it brings me right at a 10% over my 4 ton requirement, perfect for our needs. Hard to believe a 4 ton chiller evaporator in a brazed plate configuration is only around 4 inches by 12 inches and about another 4 inches deep, so designing a box shouldn't be too bad.

This isn't the actual coil, but you get the idea. Now, I need to start putting stuff together, so I hit the scrap bin and came up with a piece of aluminum plate big enough to hold the controls as well as the heat exchanger. After a measuring and marking, I went to work cutting two 2.5" holes for the gauges and holes for the key on and safety disconnect.

My wife thinks it looks like a smiley face. The price I pay to be so OCD. Oh well. Once the parts are jammed in, it takes on a functional look

Next up: Outdoor condenser mods, running a lineset and buying an evaporator....

 

[Chief Stickyfingers]

Here in Midwest City Ok. Nice set up think i will sit in if you dont mind..you been workin hard.nice set up.

 

[BeanTownFan420]

 

[Greenlizard]

This build is still just as interesting as when it began. Keep up the great work. I too have OCD but as we can clearly see it's not a hinder to be OCD. It's a gift when it comes to doing things like this in my opinion.

 

[BeanTownFan420]

Group OCD hug!

 

[Chief Stickyfingers]

I am not a prescribed OCD but, my wife has prescribed or describes it as a perfectionist`s dream with a LOT of OCD and twist of borderline psychotic.. love this guy..hope for a grand tour when finished, hell i would even volunteer some time just to learn hydro grow and what it takes to maintain something that size.. i dont have no fancy master grower certification. But, i bet what my grandma taught me about organic gardenin beats what most of them are taught. I am with you now that i moved to the big city a 4x4 tent only. This Okie was raised up around Wanette and i had a 15 plant organic greenhouse grow 25 years ago, felt like a full time job everyday then.

 

[BeanTownFan420]

I am not a prescribed OCD but, my wife has prescribed or describes it as a perfectionist`s dream with a LOT of OCD and twist of borderline psychotic.. love this guy..hope for a grand tour when finished, hell i would even volunteer some time just to learn hydro grow and what it takes to maintain something that size.. i dont have no fancy master grower certification. But, i bet what my grandma taught me about organic gardenin beats what most of them are taught. I am with you now that i moved to the big city a 4x4 tent only. This Okie was raised up around Wanette and i had a 15 plant organic greenhouse grow 25 years ago, felt like a full time job everyday then.

That's what i always hear "The wife say's"! LOL

 

[The Happy One]

Wow! I didn't realize there were so many OCD'ers like me! We should start an OCD club...
However, the same rules apply to us OCD induced relics, being all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy...
So... I took the morning performing my true labor of love, and that's tending the ladies, something I haven't had the time to do...BUT my partner is a mad scientist relic like I am, and really excels in the grow rooms, so any way I shake it, all is well.

About a dozen of so of what we've titled "Fast Jack" have lived up to their name. So much so we had to bring the lights up close to a foot on about half a row. Remember the light system raised and lowers the entire row at the same time, so the chains I incorporated into the lights have came in real handy for fine tuning each light. Some strains grow faster, ect., you get the idea. For now, cheap zip ties. I'll end up finding a deal on a few hundred of those cheap spring loaded aluminum phony climbers hooks.

We needed to thin out the mother room as we simply had too many of the same strain in mothers. I'd rather a few big mothers than a dozen small ones. I let my partner Old Santa (We gotta come up with a name for him) thin out the ladies. I don't have the heart to put the girls down

Time to get back to work, so I started welding up a frame to house the indoor section of the chiller. 1x1 square tubing is cheap and easy to work with.
(Yes, that's an unpainted and unfinished 12 pack, Stage ll Veg Table I'm welding on. I have a bakers dozen of these that need scuffed and painted, but that's another story).
The indoor chiller section needs to be 11.5"x24"x24". Why these dimensions? Because the scrap piece of aluminum plate I had laying around happened to be 11.5"x18", and I need a full 24", so I'm gonna to fudge a piece in at the bottom in the most OCD acceptable way I can

Anyway, before I get back to the chiller issue, and being so OCD (great excuse, huh?), I first must medicate.... as soon as I medicate, it's like some kind of magic fairy dust get's sprinkled on my projects and SHAZZAM! Stuff gets done!

Even though the actual heat exchanger for the evaporator side of the chiller is only about 4 inches by 12 inches or so, I need room to fit the remainder of the electronics as well as a handful of high and low side copper, fittings and the expansion valve used for metering the refrigerant into the evaporator and a few access ports if I need to add or remove refrigerant, and be able to do so without having to go outside to the condensing unit.

The brains of the system is divided into two sections, both involving the use of step down transformers.
1. The 12 volt side. We take 115 volt wall power and step in down to 12 volt DC. That is what the Inkbird temperture control requires to operate. This 12 volt feed also operates the Bosch 12 volt relay used for the key on function and the emergency shut off circuit. Yes, you can buy this simple relay at any auto parts store in the Help section I presume, but if I were you, I'd hit up a pull a part foreign auto salvage and snag a handful of them. Trust me, a 10 year old Bosch relay will outlast a brand new auto parts relay by probably another 10 years. Quality control is what I'm talkng. Do it once and never look back. Probably a lot cheaper too, and I'm thrifty like that.Anyway, here's the permanent power supply for that section. About 9 bucks with 1 day shipping. Love it!

2. The 24 volt section. This also requires it's own step-down transformer, just like the one that runs the furnace in your house. Even though we don't have a furnace anymore, we still need the transformer off one to control the condensing unit outside. Those can be had off just about any old furnace. I have a few acres of them... Here's what they look like.

Here's a view of the inside which basically boils down to only three components right now. The Inkbird controller/thermostat, the key on switch and the momentary lockout button. For protection from unauthorized fingers, I set up a locking relay. This allows me to key power on and energizes the relay while locking in the coil via it's own normally open contact. This allows me turn it on, then key off and remove the key. The system will run normally but will still allow anyone to hit the emergency stop button to shut the pumps and the condensing unit completely down by hitting only one button. Think big red button. Easy enough!

I still need to add a few things. For one, a few lights. One to show green when all is well and a red one if the system goes into lockout. I also upgraded the temp probe, and it uses an 1/8" earbud jack, so I'll probably add one to the front cover for easy probe plug in access. Those cost about 3 bucks or so each.

 

[cr8grow]

Loving the “behind the grow” facility build...great work HO (and Old Santa).

 

[The Happy One]

Today, the bazed-plate chiller evaporator was ordered, and I began doing some digging as to what water pump to use for the 4 ton chiller.
After doing the math, it was determined we needed 12 GPM (3 gallon per ton per minute) to circulate from the 175 gallon reservoir through the homemade chiller and back to the reservoir.
I went through this when I had to deal with the R.O. water distribution pump. Matter of fact, I have one that needs a pump kit, and a little investigation revealed the pump we use for our R.O. water just happens to be....wait for it...
44.5 liter per minute, right on par with our requirements!
So I ordered a rebuild kit for 25 bucks and BOOM! Problem solved, on the cheap like me...
Now, I just need to be able to ham it all into the case I built. Gonna be tight.

I built the side panels from 18 gauge sheet metal, and gave them an inch of insulation. Even though the evaporator itself is insulated, I want the cabinet shielded from heat. I used some scrap 1x2 square tubing for the motor mount and drilled oversized holes in the bottom so I could press the round headed bolts in place. This will allow easy pump removal without fear of a bolt spinning in a blind area.

I sandwiched the pump between rubber washers to help with any vibration

Metal washers and nylon locking nuts. Tighten and forget.

I still have room for the evaporator and plumbing. No doubt it's tight. Not sure where the pump outlet will go.
At this stage, I need to wait for the evaporator. We still have a hall effect flow meter, a TXV for refrigerant metering, a high and low side pressure switch and somewhere I still need to braze in both high and low side service ports.
With the long lineset and all the homemade with spare parts equipment in this project, we'll charge by subcooling and shoot for around 8 deg.

Once the pump and the 18 gauge insulated covers were in place, it's kinda taking on a Billy Bob look with bling...

I put a 1/8" earphone female plug in the faceplate. This allows easy plugging in of the temperature sensor. I also put a green and red light light on the control panel. If I get a pump failure, a high or low pressure switch issue, a temperature probe issue or a problem with the 24 volt circuit or outdoor unit, the system goes into a lockout, shutting everything down except a big, fat red light.
This way all you need to know is green is good and red is bad. Real bad since the root temps of our ladies staying a cool 68 degrees depends upon this unproven contraption to function dependably. Seems the last year I have lived under pressure in so many ways. This is just another one to conquer and move onto the next hurtle, whatever it may be...

With the 380 dollars we had to cough up for the chiller evaporator, we have right at 600 dollars total invested in this project. The rest of the stuff needed will come from donor hvac equipment, so my cost is zero. The 4 ton outdoor condensing unit is a good used unit we took out on a commercial renovation project, so I have zero dollars tied up in the condenser, plus it has a scroll compressor, so efficiency goes up there as well.
Why I bring all this up? For two reasons.
1. To prove you don't have to be wealthy to chase and fulfill a dream. There is ALWAYS a workaround.
2. When your faced with what seems an insurmountable obstacle and you bloody your nose in the process, you simply get up, wipe the blood and you remind yourself failure isn't an option. Period.
We have been faced over the last year with one obstacle after another and yet against all odds every day we get a little closer to celebrating that stiff drink with one of those little umbrella thingies on a white sand beach far away from home.
You can bet I WILL post a picture of that drink and my feet overlooking that beautiful white sand beach.

 

[The Happy One]

Today, I finished up on the wiring for the indoor section of the chiller, adding the pump circuit into the mix. I kept this circuit independent from the refrigeration circuit, mainly because the pump needs to run 24/7 while the refrigeration circuit will cycle on and off with the thermostat. I did add a few lights on this circuit as well. Green is good. Red, not so good with a simple toggle switch to bring the pump on.


Also, because this is entirely home-built, and we have to jump through hoops involving inspections, I have to make things look.... what's the word? Acceptable?
Anyway, these power plugs cost about a buck and let you use computer power cables, or HPS ballast power cords, something we have a lot of. Anyway, this gives us a finished look, and on the cheap!

Tomorrow, the chiller evaporator comes in. Then I get the joy of figuring out how to jam it and the required plumbing into what's left of the box. I also decided to incorporate a way to know water is truly circulating, so on the outlet of the cold water side of the chiller evaporator I want to squeeze in a Hall Effect drive. Think of it like a waterwheel connected to a tachometer.

Then for the readout, I'll connect a tachometer, like this.

Now, I haven't a clue what the RPM is going to be, but whatever it is, it will provide a visual readout with no tools required. When I fire it up and verify proper pump circulation, I'll make a note on the RPM at normal operation.

 

[The Happy One]

The stuff came in to finish the indoor refrigeration circuit.
Fist step was to find a location to mount the chiller evap and the related refrigerant tubing and low voltage electrical

In usual fashion, I hit the scrap iron pile and built a 1x1 frame

After a mock-up, I drilled a few holes and designed the mount to be removable in the event I ever have to remove the chiller evap for service
*Note the yellow wires. One set is tied to an auto-reset low side pressure switch, while the other set is tied to a manual reset high side pressure switch. If this one trips it has to be manually reset

There is a lot going on with both the high and low side, making mocking up a requirement. Hindsight sucks...

After running the electrical controls though the various safety switches for proper operation I began buttoning things up.

The only thing left in here is running the chilled water section and finding a place to install the hall effect motor inline on the pump outlet and cut out a one more spot on the front cover for the LED readout.
I'm fricking ready to put this behind me and move on to the outdoor section

 

[The Happy One]

The indoor section of the freshly dubbed 4 Ton Happy Chiller is finally complete. I got a good week tied up in constructing this.
Now I get to move on to running better than 100 feet of 1 1/8" and 3/8" copper from the mechanical room then modifying the outdoor section and converting it into a chiller.

 

[Ladon]

Nice and clean fabrication...I love it! Thanks for sharing your endeavour with us

 

[The Happy One]

Thursday morning upon arriving to work, as soon as I opened the door I was greeted with the kind of sound that nothing ever good comes from.
Following the sound I arrived in the mechanical room, greeted with a fan motor locked up and a chiller compressor making a helluva noise and had to be shut down.
Running into the flower room I quickly checked the reservoir temps, which had climbed to the mid 70's. I shut the lights down and went to assess the situation.
Inspection revealed the fan motor crapped, and it looks to be a proprietary motor made in China and used on Echo water chillers, which incidentally does me absolutely no good when I need a fix NOW!
So......
What's a country boy with nothing to lose do?
Improvise..... which is just what I did. The butt-ugly workaround actually moves a little more air through the evap and condensor than the tiny Chinese fan did, so much so this stays as it is until the 4 ton homemade HappyChiller is ready.

The good news is we averted a potential issue, plus I've just got done converting the condenser for chiller use and only lack one item- a low ambient outdoor fan control, then tie it all together. I cant wait to put this nightmare behind us!

 

[The Happy One]

With the indoor section done, I pulled the 4 ton condenser into the shop for some fab work.
There isn't a lot required to convert any ordinary condensing unit into the hub of a chiller, so follow along.
First up is recovering all that priceless Chlorodifloromethane (R22) into a recovery jug (about 15 lbs worth, give it take) so we can open up the system and install a larger receiver at the suction line before it enters the compressor. This "can" will capture liquid refrigerant that migrated back to the compressor and insures only vapor enters the compressor. Here's a shot of what it looks like

I built a standoff and mounted the bottom of the can with a rubber washer from an auto shock. This prevents metal on metal contact when it's running and vibrating the lines.

Another thing we have to add is called a crankcase heater. This is a small heating element tightly wrapped around the bottom of the compressor. It's job is to keep the bottom side of the compressor warmer than outdoor ambient, so any liquids that might have migrated back will turn to a gas in short order. Most heat pumps have them and most AC's don't. The reason is AC's don't tend to operate in the cold winter.
Our chiller needs to be able to run year round, and this helps us do just that.
Cost: zero. Scavenged from a boneyard unit.

Now most of the time, these have 220 volts going to them, 24/7. They dont draw a lot of electricity, but they also dont need to run all the time, especially in the summertime. So, while in the boneyard, I found an outdoor freeze stat that will carry 10 amps. We draw a lot less than that, so I wired this in to control the crankcase heater. Anything below 50 degrees and the crankcase heater comes on.

This is the control for the crankcase heater. It has an expansion bulb that senses outdoor temp. I'll clamp the bulb outside of the cabinet to get a more accurate reading.
We have one more item, and it's an important one. Condensing units typically run the compressor and the condensor fan motor at the same time for the same length of time. When the thermostat is Happy, everything shuts off.
However, in our application, and because it runs as much in winter as it does in summer went have to change that....at least when its cold outside. I'll do that by controlling the speed of the outdoor fan, and I'll do that by measuring the saturated temperature in the condensing coils. It will sense this temperature and when it senses a pressure drop (via temp) it will slow the fan down to allow the head pressures to build. Without this, in the winter the head pressures would be way too low to function properly.
Here is what that looks like.

I put a bid/offer in on the 'bay and picked up a new one for 35 bucks delivered.

That's about it for the 4 ton chiller. I got the control wiring and lineset installed today.
I need to run 8-2 w/ground and an outdoor disconnect for the outdoor section. I plan on that tomorrow, then it's a matter of connecting our DIY "Happy Chill" together. Once it's singing along, it's time to flip some lights and get back with the program!

So....without any further obstacles, we move onto the girls, after all, in the end, it's ALWAYS about the girls...

 

[Sätkis]

With the indoor section done, I pulled the 4 ton condenser into the shop for some fab work.
There isn't a lot required to convert any ordinary condensing unit into the hub of a chiller, so follow along.
First up is recovering all that priceless Chlorodifloromethane (R22) into a recovery jug (about 15 lbs worth, give it take) so we can open up the system and install a larger receiver at the suction line before it enters the compressor. This "can" will capture liquid refrigerant that migrated back to the compressor and insures only vapor enters the compressor. Here's a shot of what it looks like

I built a standoff and mounted the bottom of the can with a rubber washer from an auto shock. This prevents metal on metal contact when it's running and vibrating the lines.

Another thing we have to add is called a crankcase heater. This is a small heating element tightly wrapped around the bottom of the compressor. It's job is to keep the bottom side of the compressor warmer than outdoor ambient, so any liquids that might have migrated back will turn to a gas in short order. Most heat pumps have them and most AC's don't. The reason is AC's don't tend to operate in the cold winter.
Our chiller needs to be able to run year round, and this helps us do just that.
Cost: zero. Scavenged from a boneyard unit.

Now most of the time, these have 220 volts going to them, 24/7. They dont draw a lot of electricity, but they also dont need to run all the time, especially in the summertime. So, while in the boneyard, I found an outdoor freeze stat that will carry 10 amps. We draw a lot less than that, so I wired this in to control the crankcase heater. Anything below 50 degrees and the crankcase heater comes on.

This is the control for the crankcase heater. It has an expansion bulb that senses outdoor temp. I'll clamp the bulb outside of the cabinet to get a more accurate reading.
We have one more item, and it's an important one. Condensing units typically run the compressor and the condensor fan motor at the same time for the same length of time. When the thermostat is Happy, everything shuts off.
However, in our application, and because it runs as much in winter as it does in summer went have to change that....at least when its cold outside. I'll do that by controlling the speed of the outdoor fan, and I'll do that by measuring the saturated temperature in the condensing coils. It will sense this temperature and when it senses a pressure drop (via temp) it will slow the fan down to allow the head pressures to build. Without this, in the winter the head pressures would be way too low to function properly.
Here is what that looks like.

I put a bid/offer in on the 'bay and picked up a new one for 35 bucks delivered.

That's about it for the 4 ton chiller. I got the control wiring and lineset installed today.
I need to run 8-2 w/ground and an outdoor disconnect for the outdoor section. I plan on that tomorrow, then it's a matter of connecting our DIY "Happy Chill" together. Once it's singing along, it's time to flip some lights and get back with the program!

So....without any further obstacles, we move onto the girls, after all, in the end, it's ALWAYS about the girls...

Nice work on the chiller! Heres a question, would you build me a facility like yours? I cant pay u but i make hell of a barbeque!! kidding aside, everything looking great. Girls look like they about to explode. Are they in flower allready?

 

[SteveJasmine]

Fantastic build @The Happy One I'm loving all the work you and santa have put in. Well done!!

 

[The Happy One]

Nice work on the chiller! Heres a question, would you build me a facility like yours? I cant pay u but i make hell of a barbeque!! kidding aside, everything looking great. Girls look like they about to explode. Are they in flower allready?

Thanks for the kind words, but no. I hope to never have to go through this again!
As far as the girls go, they are still in veg, patiently waiting for me to get the 4 ton chiller installed. As soon as it is up and running, we flip the lights. Reason being the one ton chiller is running all the time to keep the 4 reservoirs under 70 deg. I have the lights set at 200 watts per fixture. In flower, I bump them to 550 watts per light or about 137.5 watts per plant. This will heat the reservoirs up where the 1 hp 12,000 btu chiller cant keep up.

 

[The Happy One]

Today is day of celebration! I've spent over two weeks building a solution that was preventing us from being able to turn the lights up and flip into flower. Tonight, I removed the one ton chiller and installed my homemade 4 ton chiller I've dubbed "The Happy Chill", and it's earned it's name!
What began life as a used builders-grade 4 ton condenser, added some metal and some used hvac boneyard parts, and shazam! Problem solved! Not only has the problem been solved, but it's done so where I'll be able to add another flower room, if not two of them into this solution!
I can literally dial in reservoir temps, and the unit runtime has gone from 24/7 to maybe 10 minutes of runtime with a good 20 minutes before coming back on. THAT is a buffer my friends!

In the time it took me to dial the system charge in, it had brought the 175 gallon reservoir down from 68 deg to 60 deg. This was before I turned GR1 chiller loop back on. Once I turned it on and began cooling down the 4 reservoirs I began picking up tools and cleaning up my mess, and before I knew it, the 175 gallon reservoir was into the high 50's!

At that point, and since it's NEVER been that low, I thought I better check the temps in GR1's reservoirs. They had gotten to around 73 degrees while doing the swap out, and I had turned all lights off except the ones we call "overcast lighting" which is just enough to keep the light cycle happy.

BAM! She's never read that low! Digging this guys!
So I went about putting my tools up, checking the outdoor unit, ect.
Then, I thought I'd check the reservoirs again.

Whoa! That's getting TOO cool. No way, right?
Indeed. Being able to dial in a parameter as important as root temperature is second to none.
This also puts me where I needed to be....a step above the majority of the competition. Being able to truly control all parameters of a grow is pretty spiffy, to say the least.
Being able to react to changes "on the fly" gives us an edge I LOT of other growers simply don't have.
In closing tonight, being in the hvac industry has sent me to a handful of Oklahoma commercial grows dealing with heat and cool issues, and I have to brag a little.
They ain't got sh*t on me.....
My Hope's and dreams are to provide medicine to Oklahoma patients that is the most pure, undiluted and pesticide free medication available on the market, and to be able to do so in a consistent manner.
Now, finally this thread can move onto what it's really all about-your passion and mine....

Now, it's time for The Happy One to do something he seldom does....
I'm treating myself to a large Redneck Ice Tea! I've f'ing earned it!