The Myth of Fragile Roots and Transplanting

If I remember correctly the Root Builder pot is the original, from the original inventor of air-pruning pots. Dr. Carl E. Whitcomb was the first to perform air-root-pruning in 1968.

I like them for more then the holes in the sides, they are fantastic for transplanting, super easy. Just unravel them and transplant. Also you can turn your 5 gallon pot into a 1, 2 or 3 gallon simply by raising or lowering the bottom of the pots.

Those combined with the air-pruning, drainage and longevity make it worth it for me, personally ;)
 
Im sure id probably like fabric pots more. But I get 15-20 gallon normal pots for 2 or 3 bucks.

20 gallon smart pots are 15 bucks.

To me 15 bucks for a single pot seems outrageous.

My little pots like 1 gallons or half gallons or such I get for like 10 cents each too. Smartpots are at least a few bucks. for those size.
I am begging you, try a couple of airpots then compare the root development and nutrient uptake, you will burn your plastic pots forever (true story)
 
screw real air/smart pots if your on a tight budget....fabric shopping bags do just as well =)
Airpots, there is nothing better, here is a 50 litre airpot. Try getting that root development out of anything but an airpot. Try one and you will burn your plastic bucket

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TRANSPLANTING TIPS & MYTHS!

Ive seen alot of different techniques on transplanting by different growers, and i have created my own way for transplanting, that not only on here i have gotten the wag of their finger at me saying "Thats not good". Until now i was unable to back up my theory that disrupting the roots during transplant is a good/healthy thing to do for there growth.

Here are some images of the amount of roots that have accustomed in my 5 gal BEFORE transplant, my method is to CUT about 2-3 inches deep into the root ball/root system. After setting it in the dirt i separate the cuts and stuff fresh dirt in between the cuts and fill container around it.

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Here is the information that i found that more thoroughly explains why this helps the plant.
:welcome:

Information taken from Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University.


The Myth of Fragile Roots
"You shouldn't disturb the rootball when transplanting trees and shrubs"

The Myth
"When you transplant, try not to disturb the roots, just take the whole pot-shaped lump of soil/roots and
pop it into its new home." This and similar advice can be found on web sites and in gardening books, all
which warn us of the fragile nature of roots. When we upend a container and slide out the root ball, it's
an innate response to handle those tiny white and brown strands gingerly so as not to break them. Since
the survival success of a newly installed tree or shrub is dependent upon healthy, functioning roots, it
seems obvious that the more intact the root system the better the chances of establishment. Anything that
damages this intricate web would seem to add to transplant shock.

The Reality
Though gentle handling of roots is good advice when transplanting seedlings, especially annual flowers
and vegetables, woody perennials, shrubs, and trees all benefit from a more vigorous approach. There are
several reasons for this, and surprisingly some of the harshest techniques result in the healthiest plants.
Containerized materials, especially those in gallon sized pots, often have serious root problems as a result
of poor potting-up techniques. Potbound plants exhibit circling root systems, which if not corrected
become woodier and more troublesome the older they get. Eventually these circling root systems become
girdling roots, which can lead to the early death of otherwise healthy trees and shrubs. At transplant
time, a more aggressive approach to root preparation can discover potentially fatal root flaws. Circling
roots, J-hooked roots, knotted roots, and other misshapen roots can often be corrected by careful pruning.
In this manner it's possible to remove those root problems before they threaten the survival of your shrub
or tree.

It's important to realize that roots respond to pruning in much the same way as the crown: pruning
induces new growth. Roots that are pruned at transplant time, especially those that are excessively long
or misshapen, will respond by generating new, flexible roots that help them establish in the landscape. It
is vital that these new transplants are kept well-watered during this time.
A second problem with containerized materials can also be avoided during your root inspection. In
general, the media in the container is a soilless mix with a large proportion of organic matter and pumice.
If transplanted with the plant as part of the root ball, this material will inhibit root development outside
the planting hole. Furthermore, the porous texture of this planting media will often lose water more
rapidly than the surrounding native soil, resulting in increased water stress to your new transplant. It is
much better for root establishment to remove as much of the container material as possible before the
plant is installed. The best use for the discarded container mix is as a topdressing over the disturbed soil.
When covered with wood chips or another mulch that will reduce weed colonization, the container media
serves as a nice source of slow-release nutrients.
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The Bottom Line
- Plants with woody roots often need corrective root pruning before transplanting
- Containerized plants are notorious for concealing fatal root flaws
- "Bare-rooting" container plants is a more successful transplanting technique as root flaws can be
corrected and container media removed
- In a healthy, well-watered plant, root pruning at transplant time will induce vigorous new root
growth and assist in establishment
How many cuts, or how far apart? Is it just quarters? I do not understand why people do not just use airpots. Here's a 50 litre. I should have repotted it long before this, but I didn't. Do you think I need to cut the roots?

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