The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

[Emilya Green]

I've grown some auto's in 3's and wished I'd gone for 5's.

After seeing @Jon 's Titan Auto, I have been convinced. She is going to get one of my special tall 5 gallon hard sided containers one of these days very soon.

 

[StoneOtter]

After seeing @Jon 's Titan Auto, I have been convinced. She is going to get one of my special tall 5 gallon hard sided containers one of these days very soon.

WOW! I've lost the fact Titan's an auto! Nice!

 

[jokerlola]

Yes, don't let your plant sit without new water more than 4 days, but if there is still water in the bottom you don't want to give a lot... maybe up to 1/3 of what it would normally take to water to runoff. Remember, in a weed there are two sets of roots. You want the water you give on these in-between waterings to be immediately taken up into the plant by the upper spreader roots, which will be doing exactly the job they evolved into doing. A weed, with its spreader roots, can quickly gather up a morning dew or a light shower, stealing that water from any of the surrounding plants. A weed, with these specialized roots is a predator to the other plants around it in the field. You can also take advantage of these spreader roots by doing these in-between waterings to keep the roots growing and the plant's metabolism high.

I have another seedling that is

Yes, don't let your plant sit without new water more than 4 days, but if there is still water in the bottom you don't want to give a lot... maybe up to 1/3 of what it would normally take to water to runoff. Remember, in a weed there are two sets of roots. You want the water you give on these in-between waterings to be immediately taken up into the plant by the upper spreader roots, which will be doing exactly the job they evolved into doing. A weed, with its spreader roots, can quickly gather up a morning dew or a light shower, stealing that water from any of the surrounding plants. A weed, with these specialized roots is a predator to the other plants around it in the field. You can also take advantage of these spreader roots by doing these in-between waterings to keep the roots growing and the plant's metabolism high.

Emilya, I started another seed and the sprout is about 10 days old. I gave it sprays of water until the 2nd set of leaves emerged and then I watered to run off (on the 13th, 4 days ago). I did have a mishap right after watering where the cup fell and the soil and plant came out on the floor. I don’t know how long it sat like that but I was able to repot it and it’s still alive but could account for it’s current condition. So 4 days after watering to runoff the weight is now 134 gram. Weight of the completely dry soil was 94 gram. You are saying you should not go more than 4 days without watering again. So I should water again now that it’s been 4 days but the cup still has weight or let it drain the cup for a few more days.? By this picture, this is stunted right?

 

[Emilya Green]

I have another seedling that is

Emilya, I started another seed and the sprout is about 10 days old. I gave it sprays of water until the 2nd set of leaves emerged and then I watered to run off (on the 13th, 4 days ago). I did have a mishap right after watering where the cup fell and the soil and plant came out on the floor. I don’t know how long it sat like that but I was able to repot it and it’s still alive but could account for it’s current condition. So 4 days after watering to runoff the weight is now 134 gram. Weight of the completely dry soil was 94 gram. You are saying you should not go more than 4 days without watering again. So I should water again now that it’s been 4 days but the cup still has weight or let it drain the cup for a few more days.? By this picture, this is stunted right?

give it just a little water, just enough to soak down about the first inch or two... and that will get it through while you are waiting for the cup to become dry.

 

[Besmirched1]

It did seem that you were making that comparison Versai, but lets look at what you have asked more carefully. Roots need oxygen and in soil it is done by the water table creating suction to pull oxygen down into the soil. In hydro you either aerate your water or you cycle your pumps, allowing the roots to see oxygen during part of the process. Nothing appears to contradict anything else here. Please explain what a cycle-less hydro method is and why getting oxygen is not part of this process. In DWC we use an airstone, and in my aquaponics setup, I cycled the pumps every 4 minutes... either way, we are still dealing with how to get oxygen to the plants.

Great info Emliya! Having grown bonsai, the wait a bit resonates greatly, you have time. The other bits of advice I was given are;
As above so below, in that the foliage structure will always be a mirror image of the root structure.
The top 100 millimetres of soil NEED to get dry as all the important gas and microbe exchange happens here.
Feed your soil, not the plant. Feed for good soil integrity and microbe diversity as this allows the plants to uptake micro nutrients and develop a healthy root ball containing both main and feeder roots.
The other little trick I have done for years, it to tailor the soil in the depot to what I want out of the plant, ie. Nitrogen rich for seedling stage. Well rounded with some decayed fish, frog or other dead animal for growth stage, still nitrogen rich though. And phosphorus and potassium rich with little or no nitrogen for flowering. Keep in mind you can always add if you notice deficiency during watering. Oh and molasses and beer castings seem to help the oxygen and microbe exchange, also combats nematodes, ugh Bain of my existence.
This year I tried a 2% mix of sphagnum moss in the soil to help with moisture retention and hoping that the little pockets of sphagnum would act like the top 100 mil of soil. Have to check that when done, but it has certainly helped with the insane winds we have had by keeping a little extra moisture in the pots.

 

[jokerlola]

give it just a little water, just enough to soak down about the first inch or two... and that will get it through while you are waiting for the cup to become dry.

I did give it a little water then 2 days later a full water to run-off and it's now doing the wet/dry cycle well. It's about 4 inches tall now and the leaf tips are to the edge of the cup so it's doing fine now!

 

[Emilya Green]

I did give it a little water then 2 days later a full water to run-off and it's now doing the wet/dry cycle well. It's about 4 inches tall now and the leaf tips are to the edge of the cup so it's doing fine now!

very good! I bet it looks a whole lot happier now too!

 

[jokerlola]

very good! I bet it looks a whole lot happier now too!

Yes it does! Thanks!

 

[Besmirched1]

lol, well, the bad lineage crack was sort of a joke, but also truth. Even the world's best blue ribbon prize winning ruderalis is still going to pale when compared to sativa and indica lines... but I see your point. They are getting better at this.
I will consider the 5 gallon. Considering how huge this thing is going to be, I am going to have to make special accommodations anyway.

I would have to agree with Jon on this. A few reasons, but an electricians saying, it is better to be looking at it than looking for it.
If the plant root system is a mirror image of the foliage system then the bulk you have on-top is what you have in the pot.
So a double in size from flower start ( I am assuming similar for rudialis?) will fill that 3 gal about half way through the flower cycle.
I would think on the linage and genetics point, that all 3 diverged to allow for environmental pressures over time from essentially the same plant. Rudialis went with short light cycle flowering, sativa went with quick, tall and easy to grow, and indica went with short, bulky and intense. They all have their advantages and disadvantages and our challenge is to get the best out of them.
Well that my thoughts on it.
Great discussion, am enjoying it.

 

[Besmirched1]

The depth of the roots on the others are the same height and width if the canopy. You got me I had to repot them.

 

[Jon]

Yes it does! Thanks!

Wow! What improvement!

 

[Jon]

I would have to agree with Jon on this. A few reasons, but an electricians saying, it is better to be looking at it than looking for it.
If the plant root system is a mirror image of the foliage system then the bulk you have on-top is what you have in the pot.
So a double in size from flower start ( I am assuming similar for rudialis?) will fill that 3 gal about half way through the flower cycle.
I would think on the linage and genetics point, that all 3 diverged to allow for environmental pressures over time from essentially the same plant. Rudialis went with short light cycle flowering, sativa went with quick, tall and easy to grow, and indica went with short, bulky and intense. They all have their advantages and disadvantages and our challenge is to get the best out of them.
Well that my thoughts on it.
Great discussion, am enjoying it.

Excellent points @Besmirched1 - as far as the when they fill 3s part you mentioned - if mine didn’t fill a 3 til then I wouldn’t grow them. I think with targeted watering you can fill a three WAY sooner. And I know factually you do every time in coco. So not sure about that part. And I agree, good discussion! Thanks!

 

[Besmirched1]

The other point I will make is that we also forget about the initial depth we plant at and the space taken up. This would make a 3 gallon pot more like 2 and a half at the least. I saw a post on putting the 3 gallon on-top of the 5, therefore creating a massive surface area for feeder roots during any cycle. But during flowering that wedge shape is super attractive sounding.

 

[Jon]

The other point I will make is that we also forget about the initial depth we plant at and the space taken up. This would make a 3 gallon pot more like 2 and a half at the least. I saw a post on putting the 3 gallon on-top of the 5, therefore creating a massive surface area for feeder roots during any cycle. But during flowering that wedge shape is super attractive sounding.

That was my post and I’m trying it in my auto grow as soon as the tent empties up, fyi!

 

[Besmirched1]

That was my post and I’m trying it in my auto grow as soon as the tent empties up, fyi!

Thought it was but wasn't sure. Love the potential and I think it will prove out.

 

[Canachris]

How critical is the up potting process ? I am physically unable to handle the plants and containers after the solo cup size. Can following these watering methods get similar results ?

 

[Emilya Green]

How critical is the up potting process ? I am physically unable to handle the plants and containers after the solo cup size. Can following these watering methods get similar results ?

I would call it essential, if you wish to grow big beautiful and healthy plants. You can grow without uppotting, but don't expect miracles on yield or even quality without actively forcing your roots to fill up your containers as you move upward. If you allow the roots to explore a second medium underneath, that is what they will do, and your rootball will never be formed. The only way to do it is by actively constricting the growing space while forcing the roots to fill in that space.

 

[almostfreegrower]

I've been growing outside for about 5 years. I grow primarily in 5 gal Smart Pots but also grow in various size plastic pots ranging from 2 to 10 gallon. I just read your article and it's excellent but I have a couple of questions. I was told when I first started growing to let the pots dry out almost completely until they feel very light or the plants starts to droop slightly which I have been doing from the very beginning. But sometimes, early on when the plants are still small, it can take over a week or even more for that to happen and it sometimes feels like the plants are just stagnating and not doing anything or growing fast enough during this dry up time. I see videos of other outdoor growers that even start very small clones in big 30 gallon and bigger pots who's plants seem to grow way faster than mine. (I know their plants will be bigger in a 30 gal than mine). You talk about not necessarily letting the plants do nothing for several days, so should there be a limit at first to how many days you let a pot dry out? And I should be watering in between that a small amount? Once my plants do get a bigger size the watering usually stabilizes to every 3 to 4 days with the bigger pots (5 gal and bigger) and every 2 to 3 days for the smaller pots. I'm looking for the best watering technique to make my clone seedlings grow as fast and big as possible for their size pots.

 

[Emilya Green]

I've been growing outside for about 5 years. I grow primarily in 5 gal Smart Pots but also grow in various size plastic pots ranging from 2 to 10 gallon. I just read your article and it's excellent but I have a couple of questions. I was told when I first started growing to let the pots dry out almost completely until they feel very light or the plants starts to droop slightly which I have been doing from the very beginning. But sometimes, early on when the plants are still small, it can take over a week or even more for that to happen and it sometimes feels like the plants are just stagnating and not doing anything or growing fast enough during this dry up time. I see videos of other outdoor growers that even start very small clones in big 30 gallon and bigger pots who's plants seem to grow way faster than mine. (I know their plants will be bigger in a 30 gal than mine). You talk about not necessarily letting the plants do nothing for several days, so should there be a limit at first to how many days you let a pot dry out? And I should be watering in between that a small amount? Once my plants do get a bigger size the watering usually stabilizes to every 3 to 4 days with the bigger pots (5 gal and bigger) and every 2 to 3 days for the smaller pots. I'm looking for the best watering technique to make my clone seedlings grow as fast and big as possible for their size pots.

Hi @almostfreegrower and welcome to the forum!
I don't let the plants go more than 3 or 4 days without getting something, even if it just a little bit of water. While waiting for the plant to drain a container, you can water just the top spreader root system in the first several inches of the container by giving a much smaller amount of water, typically about 1/3 of what it would take to produce runoff in that container. Typically I will apply these small drabs of water around the outside edges of the container primarily, so as to entice the roots to grow out horizontally toward this water.

This small in between watering will be quickly absorbed into the plant and if done correctly, and none of it should fall into the bottom of the container where there is still a pool of water that you are waiting to be drained. This will keep the plant metabolism high and will even allow you to bring in additional nutes with these mini waterings. Usually after 2 or these little waterings, the plant will have been able to finally drain the container and you will be able to fully water on the 3rd one. Usually the roots will be growing so rapidly at this point, that you will never see such a long dry out time again and each time you get through a wet/dry cycle, it will happen in less time than the time before.

 

[almostfreegrower]

Hi @almostfreegrower and welcome to the forum!
I don't let the plants go more than 3 or 4 days without getting something, even if it just a little bit of water. While waiting for the plant to drain a container, you can water just the top spreader root system in the first several inches of the container by giving a much smaller amount of water, typically about 1/3 of what it would take to produce runoff in that container. Typically I will apply these small drabs of water around the outside edges of the container primarily, so as to entice the roots to grow out horizontally toward this water.

This small in between watering will be quickly absorbed into the plant and if done correctly, and none of it should fall into the bottom of the container where there is still a pool of water that you are waiting to be drained. This will keep the plant metabolism high and will even allow you to bring in additional nutes with these mini waterings. Usually after 2 or these little waterings, the plant will have been able to finally drain the container and you will be able to fully water on the 3rd one. Usually the roots will be growing so rapidly at this point, that you will never see such a long dry out time again and each time you get through a wet/dry cycle, it will happen in less time than the time before.

Thank you! This is the ingredient I am missing in my watering routine!