TheFrizz - Girl Scout Cookie Autos In RDWC - A Defoliation Experiment!

TheFrizz

Well-Known Member
Hello friends and wonderful 420 Magazine community! :welcome:

First off, a bit of introduction. I am a high school science teacher from the Seattle area, and my long term goal is to create an easy-to-follow grow strategy optimized for medical patients who require large amounts of high quality medicine. My first grow taught me that manifolding along with defoliation in DWC and a strong light is a recipe for a big yield. However, many medical patients grow auto flowering strains, and I want to find out if these same training methods can be employed with autos.

The purpose of this grow is to investigate the effects of defoliation on autoflowering cannabis. Why? Well, I have read (and personally experienced) that strategic defoliation can increase yields for photoperiod strains (see my first grow and many others for evidence:D) However, the general rhetoric towards autos seems to be "remove as little growth as possible because this can stunt the plant" :hmmmm:. I have done research and I have not been able to find a grow where someone runs a controlled experiment to test out the effects of defoliation on autos. So I decided to answer my own question by conducting this grow! :cheer:

Grow setup and methodology:

Light: 1,000 watt MH/HPS, air cooled, possibly some small 30w LED's for supplementing
Light cycle: 20 hours on, 4 hrs off
Grow Room: 4x4x7 sealed tent w/ carbon filter
Strain: Girl Scout Cookies Auto by FastBuds
Medium: Recirculating DWC+ Hydroton, 4x5 gallon buckets, 1x5 gallon reservoir
Nutes: Jack's Hydroponics (had read a lot of good things quality-wise and powder based nutes should save money as well!)

Below is an image of what the tent will look like, as you can see I will be using LST (bending and tying branches) as well as topping each plant twice. The difference is that with the two plants closest to the tent opening, I will be removing fan leaves consistently throughout the grow. I will start from the bottom and work my way up to the top. By harvest day there will be little to no fans left. The other 2 plants will be left untouched other than the initial plant training.

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Here are the babies in Rapid Rooters waiting to sprout! I have them under the MH set to 500 watts, approximately 3 feet above them. I have germed under lights before and appreciate the nice sturdy seedlings that result from it :love:

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Washing out the Hydroton....so much silt, but so worth it!
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I am experimenting with soaking the Hydroton in water with EarthJuice Catalyst (contains enzymes, hormones, vitamins, amino acids, nutrients etc) and HydroGuard (friendly bacteria that promote healthy roots) added (2 ml each). I am hoping that this infusion of gentle "boosters" will help the roots spread through the hydroton more quickly. For my grow strategy to be successful, the roots need to be established ASAP and the faster they hit the water, the better!

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Expectations and goals:

I am hoping to achieve the same yield as my first grow (roughly 2 lbs dry/ 8 oz per plant avg). I believe that well trained auto's in RDWC can absolutely reach 8oz on avg. My prediction is that the defoliated plants will out-perform the un-trimmed plants by at least 25%. I am still unsure WHY defoliation works, whether via extra light exposure, a hormonal reaction to stress at the budsite, or otherwise, but I am convinced of its efficacy after my first grow. Now we get to find out if autos can handle it, or if I will end up with two Derpy's! :laugh:

Peace, love, and happiness to all of you, and thank you for joining me on my new journey!
:thanks::Namaste:
~TheFrizz
 
Cool. Please do not leave out any details so I can reference this journal when I am ready to try DWC. I know it's tedious to journal step by step, but it sure helps newbies like me out. :blalol:

My next grow actually includes the same strain! Will be interesting to see the differences.
 
Thanks Hyperluv! I will be taking a particular interest in your grow as well especially as flowering progresses, I am really curious to see how the Perfect Sun performs! Also, super cool that you will be running GSC too, when are you planning on starting that grow? :high-five:

As far as details go, I will be including a lot more information throughout this grow since it is going to be a controlled experiment. However, I will NOT be adjusting nutes/pH daily, I will stick to once/week like I did with my first grow. Why? Well, because I want to prove that DWC/RDWC does not have to be time consuming or "finicky" and because having the pH swing (from about 5.5-6.5) on a weekly cycle allows the plant to uptake more nutrients than if it was static at a "perfect" 5.8 the whole grow. This is because different nutrients are absorbed at different pH levels (see chart below).

plant-nutrient-absorption-at-different-pH.jpg


:Namaste:
 
Thanks Hyperluv! I will be taking a particular interest in your grow as well especially as flowering progresses, I am really curious to see how the Perfect Sun performs! Also, super cool that you will be running GSC too, when are you planning on starting that grow? :high-five:

Hey TheFrizz! Yeah the Perfect Sun 1000 is a beast. My small Bluetooth plant is doing much better than it was under the T5's and it's near the 5' mark (the LED is only 4' long) and it has to get by the Critical Thunder's and the Lemon Haze's leaves to reach it. :thedoubletake:

I'm planning on starting that grow next year (hopefully Jan or Feb). I do not want to start a new grow until the current one is completed.
 
Hey Frizz, definitely going to tag along here, very interesting in your results.

My theory I am using in my current grow is: keep as much foliage as possible while vegging (up to week 6), then I am going to defoil and add bloom nutes, but will still leave moderate amount of leaves...we shall see.

Can't wait to see your results here, especially after the last one, IMPRESSIVE!
 
Hey Frizz, definitely going to tag along here, very interesting in your results.

My theory I am using in my current grow is: keep as much foliage as possible while vegging (up to week 6), then I am going to defoil and add bloom nutes, but will still leave moderate amount of leaves...we shall see.

Can't wait to see your results here, especially after the last one, IMPRESSIVE!

That is perfect, a 3rd option to add to our collective data set! Between us we will have: non defol, constant defol, and post week 6 defol to analyze, very cool stuff! :cheer:
 
I've found that the lazy grower style of toss them in there, get stoned and forget them for three days at a time works fairly well. :) If they want to drop a leaf or grow up into the lights I typically let them. Well not grow into the light, but damn near. :biglaugh:
 
I've found that the lazy grower style of toss them in there, get stoned and forget them for three days at a time works fairly well. :) If they want to drop a leaf or grow up into the lights I typically let them. Well not grow into the light, but damn near. :biglaugh:

Hey props Rifleman, if that turns plants into beach ball sized masses of bud like in your profile picture! :thumb::goodjob:
 
Hi folks! So, throughout this grow I will be measuring the light intensity with a lux meter (lux is the unit of light intensity, representing lumens/sq meter) and using it to inform my decisions and ensure a controlled and fair experiment. Here is a bit of general information about lux from my own tinkering and also compiled from other gardeners research :)

-Seedlings like to have at least 20,000 lux to avoid stretching
-20,000 to 45,000 lux is a solid range for veg state
-45,000 to 85,000 lux is a solid range for flowering (but watch out for light bleaching at the upper end of the spectrum!)
-85,000+ means you have reached the light saturation point for cannabis and will definitely start to experience bleaching
-Most lux meters can only measure "white light" like HID's and florescent's and are not calibrated to accurately detect red and blue LED's.
-The sun has a lux output from around 30,000 (morning sun, high latitides) up to 120,000 (equatorial location, summer, noon).


Ok enough blabbing, time for pics!:cheer: It has been 3 days since the babies emerged from the top of their Rapid Rooter plugs. I initially was going to keep them underneath the MH light after popping but I had a hard time balancing the temps, so I switched to my T5's. I placed the plants on a tray 3 inches under the bulbs. Each day before work I add an ounce of pH 6.5 tap water to the bottom of the plastic container to encourage the plants to send their roots down quickly and to maintain humidity.

Current stats
Humidity range: 50-60%
Temperature range: 74-86 degrees F
Lux reading: 27,000 under the T5's

Here they are shortly after popping, this was 3 days ago. They were still in the tent under the MH at this time. I moved them under my T5's in the closet a few minutes after this picture was taken because it was 100 degrees in their mini greenhouse :O.

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3 day time lapse *POOF!*

Ok here they are now, these were taken an hour ago.
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Close up, you can see the root tips starting to poke out!
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I think it is fascinating to see how different they are in appearance! I placed them all in the Rapid Rooters at the same depth (1/2 inch) and they have been given equal access to light and nutrients. Just goes to show how powerful genetic variation can be!

Alright now for the best part....these ladies need names! Start throwing ideas out here, and I will pick their official names when they are transplanted into the net pots! :party:I also welcome your input in selecting which one to cull. I am obviously leaning towards snipping the one that decided to wear her seed as a hat for 2 days (far right one) but I kind of also want to keep her as a cool underdog that we can all root for...:love:

As always, questions, comments, and feedback are appreciated! My next update will be this weekend when I move them into their net pots and give them names.

:thanks:
:Namaste:
~TheFrizz
 
Don't cull. From my limited experience, I found that how seedlings look (small, large, etc...) does not always mean anything as far as its potential goes. You may end up with a smaller plant, but that's ok. Or it can turnaround and be bigger than the rest.
Let her live. :green_heart:
 
Don't cull. From my limited experience, I found that how seedlings look (small, large, etc...) does not always mean anything as far as its potential goes. You may end up with a smaller plant, but that's ok. Or it can turnaround and be bigger than the rest.
Let her live. :green_heart:

Oh boy see this is a tough moral dilemna...because 4 plants is our legal limit and I am trying to do things "by the book". So I had planned on culling whichever one had the least developed root structure after a week. Maybe I can find her a new home instead of snipping :)
 
Saturday update time! Today the girls are 5 days old and the roots are starting to extend out of the plugs so I transplanted the 4 with the most successful root systems into the RDWC system.

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A side view of the roots

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The Derpy of this batch, notice how she is several days behind in terms of leaf size and root development.

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I swapped out the systems default 1.5 inch air stones for 3.5 inch ones, look how many bubbles there are! :cheer:

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Using the lux meter to ensure they are all receiving the same amount of light, between 38-40k lux.
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Front left plant (Defol 1) and Derpy next to her until I decide what to do with her :laugh:

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Front right plant (Defol 2)

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Back left plant (No Defol 1)

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Back right plant (No Defol 2)

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Side view, I tried to get them as close to the same height as possible. As far as the nutrient solution goes, I added Jack's Hydroponic 5-12-26 and Jack's Hydroponic Calcium Nitrate at 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons, and I also added 1 tbsp of DynaGrow ProTekt (Potassium silicate) per 5 gallons. The system holds about 20 gallons of liquid total. I then added my trusty Hydroguard (friendly bacteria that feed on root rot) and also Earth Juice Catalyst (an organic blend of enzymes, micronutrients, amino acids) at 2 tbsp each per 5 gallons. This resulted in a solution with a pH of ~6.0 and a ppm reading of 160. I did not adjust the pH because I am happy with where it is at. :cheer:

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And finally the big picture shot, I am avoiding the left side of the tent because the lux levels are nearly 30% lower! This is due to the asymmetrical nature of the grow light.

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Over the next few days the roots will creep through the Hydroton down to the water that is splashing up into the net pot. Once they hit the surface of the water the crazy exponential growth begins, so that is when I will start training the plants.

As always, questions, comments, and feedback are appreciated! Let me know if I am leaving out information or if you have any general questions about how DWC or RDWC works. :) I need some ideas for what to do with that 5th plant....maybe I can take her to the Humane Society?

:thanks:
:Namaste:
~TheFrizz
 
This is going to be good.
I am a big believer in selective defol for increasing yields and it will be cool to see a side by side.
I think you will be happy with the results of your "improved" hydroton. I started doing something like this my last grow (soaked in ph'd ro and doused with great white, superthrive and hydroguard and I've noticed faster root growth since then.
Good luck!
 
This is going to be good.
I am a big believer in selective defol for increasing yields and it will be cool to see a side by side.
I think you will be happy with the results of your "improved" hydroton. I started doing something like this my last grow (soaked in ph'd ro and doused with great white, superthrive and hydroguard and I've noticed faster root growth since then.
Good luck!

Thanks Lazarus! It is gratifying to hear someone else using the same technique and getting positive results, yay! :cheer: It makes sense though, if you think of the Hydroton as a desert that the roots have to trudge through to reach the "promised land" of the water. Anything we can do to make that journey easier for the roots is going to result in faster growth which is essential in the first couple weeks for autos since every day of veg time counts.
 
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