For indoor lighting the intensity of light at the top of the plant can be very different then the bottom. You don't want the flowers to mature at different rates for many reasons. To avoid that you top and train to get a flatter wider plant so that all the flowers ripen together and are ready to harvest at the same time after a flush. If you grow it lanky and tall then you have to harvest some without a flush, wait for it to recover from shock and wait some more and then some more and then just a bit more....for the bottom to finish. Not a very efficient fast way to go. OR you can harvest immature stuff and that is fine too just why?
A SCROG being one of the more modern versions of this.
But the same weight is easily achieved with just twine if trained correctly. (he used more than just twine but there are many many methods)
420 Magazine's Plant Of The Month - March 2016
Tag!
A SCROG being one of the more modern versions of this.
But the same weight is easily achieved with just twine if trained correctly. (he used more than just twine but there are many many methods)
420 Magazine's Plant Of The Month - March 2016
Tag!
Weaselcracker
Nug of the Year: 2016 - Member of the Month: Sept 2015, Nov 2016 - Nug of the Month: Oct 2016 - Plant of the Month: May 2016 - Photo of the Month: Nov 2020
Not a trick, but a tip. In my experience anyway, if you're growing in soilless or hydro, almost all 'mysterious problems' turn out to be related to ph imbalances.
A trick... Hmmmm...
Label all your electrical devices- lights, fans, ballasts, extension cords, - everything- at both ends.
Edit- Ok maybe you don't need to label everything at both ends. But for example I label my lights A, B, and C, with their wattages written next to the letter name if necessary, and separate them appropriately from left to right to keep things as simple as possible. Stuff like this can save a lot of confusion, especially if you're stoned as hell.
A trick... Hmmmm...
Label all your electrical devices- lights, fans, ballasts, extension cords, - everything- at both ends.
Edit- Ok maybe you don't need to label everything at both ends. But for example I label my lights A, B, and C, with their wattages written next to the letter name if necessary, and separate them appropriately from left to right to keep things as simple as possible. Stuff like this can save a lot of confusion, especially if you're stoned as hell.
I was saving the pH one for tomorrow but... 
If you see multiple deficiencies that is likely pH related.
Single nutrient deficiencies can happen but are not really common as much as immobility. Nutrient mobility is usually a pH problem. That shows as a deficiency. It may start with one but if it is more than one and you are feeding a decent plan then you have a pH problem and adding more may not help and may make things worse.
If you see multiple deficiencies that is likely pH related.
Single nutrient deficiencies can happen but are not really common as much as immobility. Nutrient mobility is usually a pH problem. That shows as a deficiency. It may start with one but if it is more than one and you are feeding a decent plan then you have a pH problem and adding more may not help and may make things worse.
- Thread starter
- #7
Weaselcracker
Nug of the Year: 2016 - Member of the Month: Sept 2015, Nov 2016 - Nug of the Month: Oct 2016 - Plant of the Month: May 2016 - Photo of the Month: Nov 2020
What do you think you most need tips with, or is it a fishing expedition for anything?
Weaselcracker
Nug of the Year: 2016 - Member of the Month: Sept 2015, Nov 2016 - Nug of the Month: Oct 2016 - Plant of the Month: May 2016 - Photo of the Month: Nov 2020
The best way to move forward through confusing problems, and to gain actual understanding of the situation- is to do side by side experiments . Growing small plants is helpful with this. For example- If I have an issue I think may be related to feeding levels, I could grow 3 or 4 clones of the same strain at different feeding levels, keep notes, and see how they do. It's a pain in the ass- but actually saves time in the long run. Not to say that the results might not still be confusing as hell, but any knowledge gained is permanent and of a much higher quality than the stuff we read second hand, IMO. There will always be hundreds of confusing 'what it's' and 'maybes', but I try to use any chance I get to stop googling and actually put ideas to the test.
- Thread starter
- #11
Major PITA
Member of the Month: Oct 2015, June 2016
Whatever the feeding instructions are, start with half.
About the only improvement I've seen in a leaf with nutrient problems is when it is 'N' and caught early. Other than that, don't expect an improvement in leaves with a nutrient imbalance.
Droopy stems and branches = thirsty (maybe/probably)
Droopy leaves = over watered or some other issue.
About the only improvement I've seen in a leaf with nutrient problems is when it is 'N' and caught early. Other than that, don't expect an improvement in leaves with a nutrient imbalance.
Droopy stems and branches = thirsty (maybe/probably)
Droopy leaves = over watered or some other issue.
- Thread starter
- #14
Dan Ultra
New Member
A great tip for new growers is to learn to love your plants from a far. Too many new growers try and do TOO MUCH and end up causing more issues or unnecessary stress. (to the plants and/or themselves)
It is important to always make changes slowly to the environment. If you change many things each time you start a new grow you will likely miss-attribute improvements to something you changed, not the actually reason, being you know more now and are not screwing up so much (usually where the bulk of the improvement comes from). People fail at something and make radical change to fail again instead of trying to learn and correct. Better to take things slow.
In hydro educate yourself early about the difference between a living and Sterile res and make a decision about what you want to do before starting to grow not after rot and disease have taken your roots.
For ventilation make sure the fan and carbon filter are overbuilt enough that you can run the fan below max speed. This improves the life of the filter and fan. This also improves filter performance running the air through slower.
If you want to save some cash on the electric bill look into the "Gas Lantern Routine" (GLR) which runs a 12 hour day but breaks up the night period preventing bloom and keeping the plant in veg running total of 13 hour days of on time in veg.
Harvest right before the lights come on the most potent time of the day is right before this lights come on and start destroying the resin. Many people do a long 48 hour night right before harvest to improve the potency.
there caught up...
In hydro educate yourself early about the difference between a living and Sterile res and make a decision about what you want to do before starting to grow not after rot and disease have taken your roots.
For ventilation make sure the fan and carbon filter are overbuilt enough that you can run the fan below max speed. This improves the life of the filter and fan. This also improves filter performance running the air through slower.
If you want to save some cash on the electric bill look into the "Gas Lantern Routine" (GLR) which runs a 12 hour day but breaks up the night period preventing bloom and keeping the plant in veg running total of 13 hour days of on time in veg.
Harvest right before the lights come on the most potent time of the day is right before this lights come on and start destroying the resin. Many people do a long 48 hour night right before harvest to improve the potency.
there caught up...
- Thread starter
- #17
