420 Magazine Background

Triple Cheese, Pineapple Chunk, Homemade Nutes, Vero29 COBs

Skybound

Well-Known Member
Here's some pics of the last run of Triple Cheese. Aside from the visible leaf damage of Ca deficiency, I also see the leaves are definitely on the dark side and I do keep the N fairly high well into bloom. This elevated N did seem to affect the Cheese more than the PC, and I will also see how that plays out with the other strains, by then I'll know if I should lessen the N sooner in bloom. I feel cutting it too soon will affect bud development, but I'll have to read more about N to make a better informed decision. At any rate, I personally am going to miss this Cheese. She is a great yielder, smells like a sweeter version of Boo Berry cereal. I will have to lock away a small quantity for myself to enjoy this summer.

1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
Well water is just fine, but IMO, regardless of the style you use, you should have your water tested to know what dissolved solids you already have naturally. GH for example at full strength is so far into the toxic range, and even still with a 30% reduction it's still toxic, but manageable. Well if using unfiltered water, it would likely elevate the calcium and magnesium back up into severely toxic ranges, but if you knew in advance what those levels in your water were, you might could adjust the feed with that in mind. The way I'm going you most definitely could adjust to account, but maybe not so much with liquid nutes. The good thing about Hydro Buddy is that you can create "custom solutions" which means you can label your well water as a custom solution and just input your water analysis report values into the app for storage and always include it in with your mixtures. HB will keep your presets in mind and still try to resolve all of the other solutions to get as close to your targets as possible. I admit, that does sound complex, and in reality, doing things that way is complex, but if you don't want to filter your water, that choice would itself add a complication to the process, so the added burden would be felt somewhere along the line.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I wish more than anything we lived 50 years in the future because then I'm certain we'd have the ability to share scents over the internet much the same way I can share a 3D model and your printer produce it, because this Cheese smells more abundantly sweet than she ever has. Previously, I was using 60PPM of sulfur and she smelled so sweet then, but now I target to 100PPM, but only achieve 82PPM of sulfur which is still about 22PPM higher than what I did previously.
 

Weaselcracker

Nug of the Year: 2016 - Member of the Month: Sept 2015, Nov 2016 - Nug of the Month: Oct 2016 - Plant of the Month: May 2016
I wish more than anything we lived 50 years in the future because then I'm certain we'd have the ability to share scents over the internet much the same way I can share a 3D model and your printer produce it, because this Cheese smells more abundantly sweet than she ever has. Previously, I was using 60PPM of sulfur and she smelled so sweet then, but now I target to 100PPM, but only achieve 82PPM of sulfur which is still about 22PPM higher than what I did previously.
Ha! This has been a recurring thought for me lately, for a bunch of reasons. The latest reason was a few hours ago when I had the joy of opening up my experimental bucket of rotten kelp I started back in the winter. Holy shit... even the maggots are fleeing from it now.

Thanks kindly for the awesome info dump. I’ll be revisiting and digesting it for a while. :48:
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I just recently started using kelp again, well, beginning next res change. I thought it was the kelp that was getting stinky in my bottles, so I bought fulvic/humic w/o the kelp, whipped up a concentrate and a few weeks later it stank again. I wonder if GH is adding a preservative to Floralicious Plus? That product would still turn, but not as quick as what I whipped up did. I'd like to solve that mystery one day. Floralicious Plus is a great product when it doesn't go bad. It's sad too b/c it costs $85 a quart in the local hydro store.

@Weaselcracker If you want to try to get more sulfur into your feed, just find brands or feed stocks that are deficient of Magnesium and add in Epsom salt. My studies suggest that it's hard to give too much sulfur so we can pretty much give as much as we can squeeze in there and let's face it, pot can never be too stinky, lol.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
I just want to appreciate these thick stems again. Man they're beefy. Thin stems that I just chopped returned only about 17.5 zips, but much of that is whispy unattractive crap. Thick stem chop gave me about 50% very dense colas.

In the Veg pics, there's one thin stem on the left that will likely die very soon, a cheese in the middle looking beautiful, but also will likely die soon, and the 2 thick stem cuts on the right. They all look very healthy and happy, but I will be needing to thin out the herd very soon to make room for the glues that all stood up out of their cubes. Em Dog is still hiding in her cube and I don't think Purple Dreams will be getting out of the shell.

Thick Top 1.jpg
Thick Top 2.jpg
Veg 1.jpg
Veg 2.jpg
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
plants look good sky that cheese has some different looking leaves!
Despite Cheese being a cousin of Pineapple Chunk (Chunk = Cheese/Skunk), the PC seems to be a bit more fussy and expresses reddish petioles, yet with the same feed, and half into bloom, the Cheese leaves are much darker with N tox, yet her colas are stupid fat, she matures quicker and smells way sweeter. If I were to keep the Cheese around, I would only need to make a minor correction to the feed (less N in mid-late bloom). But in veg, the Cheese looks very Sativa with those thin bladed leaves.

Side note, I just made a BOM for all salts, and links to each and posted that to my "How to Use Hydro Buddy and Mix Nutes" thread, and including the preservative, and all salts I use, was still less than $160 before shipping so if I ever have to leave Earth (or the internet lol) everything I've learned has been memorialized. I just hope mods don't stomp on my Johnson because this is very good information, it took me a long time to hunt down, and flesh out and will DEFINITELY enrich the community as most of the info was extracted from RIU and condensed and regifted on 420 which IMO, would benefit 420 the most. End sales pitch.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
there ya go looks to be about 7 now you no where you stand anyway now to figure out how to get a higher reading if anyone can it would be you im going to be interested in that good luck bud!
Some light reading and Conradino are leading me to rethink the ratios between Ca:N:K. I'm also thinking of how to best adopt more organics into my grow w/o switching it up to soil. If only I could have my cake and eat it too?
 

ilikemsticky

Well-Known Member
Some light reading and Conradino are leading me to rethink the ratios between Ca:N:K. I'm also thinking of how to best adopt more organics into my grow w/o switching it up to soil. If only I could have my cake and eat it too?
theres a science behind it for sure its over my head ill bet you will get that reading up a few points at least good luck bud!
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
heard anything from doc bud yet?
I got a lot of feedback on his HighBrix thread, but none from Doc himself and after reading through his website, I'm not entirely sure I can get from Doc what I need. His high brix super soil is preloaded with 18 times more calcium than potassium, and that's because it takes the soil microbes a considerable amount of time to eat up various complexes and poop out nutes ready for uptake by the roots. What I do is feed the roots immediately on contact, so right off the bat our recipes will differ greatly.

I do hope that he tests the PH of the leaf sap to advise me that way. From what I've read, I predict that will be the direction that this path leads to.
 

Skybound

Well-Known Member
that would be cool maybe bring them to a certain ph will translate to higher brix!
From what I gather from looking at this chart is that depending the PH of the sap, the grower can adjust the feed element ratios as needed to reach equilibrium, and once reached, high brix will be achievable or likely.

sap-ph.png
 

ilikemsticky

Well-Known Member
From what I gather from looking at this chart is that depending the PH of the sap, the grower can adjust the feed element ratios as needed to reach equilibrium, and once reached, high brix will be achievable or likely.

View attachment 1775397
ya im thinking once your at the 6.4 ph then you can manipulate it tweek things a little get the brix up good luck and I will be paying attention!
 
Top Bottom