Understanding High-Brix

GigaGrew

New Member
A lot of people are asking for basic information on the High-Brix method of growing plants, but very little is availible to actually give us a basic comprehension of what its all about. Here is something i found on one of the many hbx sites that actually makes sense to a newbie.

Remineralize and Balance the Soil

In college classes soil has been endlessly classified according to its’ proportion of organic mater, sand, silt, and clay while soil typing assigns names to various soils based on its structure, texture, and other parameters.
In the real world of growing high brix plants none of this matters one hoot. What really matters is things like; how much calcium is available for the crop to build healthy cells? Is calcium in correct ratio with magnesium? Is there sufficient available phosphates in the soil needed to carry other nutrients into the plant and provide the energy transfer within the plant? Is there a broad-spectrum of trace minerals available to the plant? How active is the soil biology? These are the important issues that must be addressed if we are to achieve high brix.
Lets start with calcium. Calcium is needed in every healthy cell—no life can survive without it. It takes good microbial activity to make calcium available in the soil. At the same time when soil biology is increasing rapidly they will utilize available calcium—even taking it away from what the plants need. High brix foods are higher in calcium than low brix foods. Consequently it is imperative for available calcium to be addressed when embarking on the Path to High Brix.
Lets move on to phosphates. High brix foods cannot be built with low phosphates—it just doesn’t happen. Dr. Reams said it this way: “Available phosphates determine the sugar content in plants.” High Brix foods are not particularly high in phosphates; rather they are significantly higher in calcium, sugars, and trace minerals. Phosphates are the catalysts that transport nutrients within the plant. Once the nutrients are transported to the correct location the phosphates recycle and again carry more nutrients to the correct location within the plant. Phosphates are the trucker moving nutrients and joining these nutrients to the plant. They are the catalysts of chemical reactions but are not part of the union. When phosphates are low fewer minerals are transported within a plant—hence lower mineral density. Phosphates also play a major role as the energy source in the Krebs cycle. This is just a fancy way of saying that phosphates help the plant get more energy out of the sunlight, which leads to a greater production of carbohydrates.
Trace minerals have received a lot of coverage in the health world lately. They are vital and must be in our diet for good health. A few come to mind: selenium, iodine, cobalt, lithium, and vanadium. They all play a role in our health and we know it. Unfortunately most people just aren’t getting enough in their diet because they are not in our foods. Most trace minerals are quite heavy and when foods contain rare earth minerals they weigh more than low brix foods. In other words if two apples of differing weights are the same size the heavier apple will be the most nutritious because it contains more minerals. So how do we get trace minerals into our foods? Obviously the first thing we have to do is apply them to the soil. Since trace minerals are so dense uptake also requires high levels of calcium and phosphates in our plants.
Other important nutrients to consider when remineralizing soil include potassium, nitrogen, and sulfur. Potassium plays a key role in plant health and yield but its use in recent times has been excessive to the detriment of calcium availability. Nitrogen, like potassium, has also been over used and rarely understood. Sulfur, in the form of sulfates, is indispensable for proper protein formation within plants.
Soil Remineralization is the best time to add microbiology. By combining biology with rock powders, soil amendments, and fertilizers, the soil has greater digestive capacity to make the minerals available for plant uptake. In the High Brix Garden program soil remineralization is accomplished by the annual broadcast of nutrients that is custom formulated according to the results of the soil test.
An important consideration in growing high brix is to achieve balance. Excesses and deficiencies are equally debilitating. Deficiencies are, however, much easier to overcome. Many gardeners have so imbalanced their soil with excessive phosphorous and potassium from manure or compost that their soil is virtually ruined for growing high brix. By following the roadmap of the soil test we can avoid the extremes while supplying the missing nutrients. Once we have begun soil remineralization, we need to follow it up with an equally important step:

Create and Maintain Soil Energy

Energy in the soil is measured by electrical conductance. The unit of measurement is microSiemens (mS) per centimeter on a conductivity meter. On the soil test electrical conductance is shown as ERGS. This is an acronym, given by Dr. Reams, which stands for Energy Released per Gram per Second.

The governor for electrical conductance in soils is humus. When humus levels are high the Ergs reading is stabilized and does not “climb the highest peak and then plunge to the deepest valley.” When striving for high brix plants on soils with low humus levels it is important to keep the Ergs up. As the growing season progresses plants draw heavily on soil reserves and the Ergs reading drops. In other words the soluble nutrients in the soil are taken up by the plants, which results in a decrease of electrical conductance in soils. Low soil energy causes plant growth to slow way down.
A monthly nutrient drench increases the soil’s electrical conductance and thereby keeps plants growing at optimum rates. This is especially important when it has been raining heavily and the soil solution is already diluted from the additional water in the soil. The nutrient drenches used in the High Brix Garden Program includes Perk-Up!, WildCat, OND, ErgsBlaster, Inferno, and DroughtBuster. Nutrient drenches are used at the rate of 1 quart per 1,000 square feet mixed with 30 gallons of water and applied at the root level of plants. By regularly applying small doses of nutrient drenches we insure a steady growth of plants because soil energy is being maintained. The next step to achieve high brix is to …

Foliar Feed Regularly

Have you ever used an old-fashioned hand pump to draw out water from the ground? The first thing it needs is some water poured down the shaft followed by vigorous pumping on the handle. It only takes a small amount of water to “prime the pump.”
Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.

Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pass through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.
When a foliar program is properly applied the mineral density within the plant is increased, as are the carbohydrates or plant sugars. This increase of plant sugars and minerals are sent to the roots of the plants, some of which are excreted out of the roots as plant exudates. This increase of plant root exudates, caused by the foliar spray, creates a ready food supply for the bacteria that live symbiotically on the plant roots. Bacteria respond to this increased food supply by making more nutrients in the soil available to the plant. These minerals are picked up by the roots and sent to the aerial part of the plant. This process explains how a foliar spray can increase brix readings.
In addition to increasing nutrient density, a foliar spray is a command to a plant’s physiology. A foliar spray can either push a plant toward vegetative production i.e. growth of leaves, stems, and stalk or it can push a plant toward reproduction i.e. promotion of blossoms, flowers, and fruit set.
Systematic foliar spraying will exhibit a cumulative affect of increasing yield along with mineral density and plant sugars. In the High Brix Garden Program we emphasize a weekly foliar spray of either BrixBlaster or Qualify! beginning one month after transplanting or emergence. BrixBlaster is used for crops making reproductive growth such as tomatoes, peppers, and sweet corn. Qualify! is used on crops making vegetative growth such as lettuce, kale, and spinach. It can also be used on early growth of crops that will later need BrixBlaster.
The High Brix Garden Program also uses two other foliar sprays; Enthuse and ShowTime. Enthuse is used on a monthly basis or as needed for plant stress. It contains a broad-spectrum of trace minerals, bio stimulants, and single L-amino acids to help plants cope with stress. ShowTime is used once a month or as needed to enhance the visual appearance of plants and to repel noxious insects. This is a great product to use 1 day before you show your garden off to friends and family and you want it looking its best.
In summary the Path to High Brix is really quite simple—just create the right environment for plants to express their full genetic potential. To do this we must have a vision and a roadmap as we do the following 3 steps;
1. Remineralize and Balance the Soil starting with a Soil Test,
2. Create and Maintain Soil Energy with monthly Nutrient Drenches, and
3. Foliar Feed Regularly with Foliar Sprays

Other Important Considerations

Lastly there are several other important considerations when aiming for high brix.
Water
No plant will grow indefinitely without adequate water. If you do everything else right but do not provide your plants with water you still cannot achieve high brix.
Weeds
Weeds need to be kept under control because they compete with the garden plants for moisture and sunlight. A good way to do this is to use a woven vinyl mesh to keep weeds down but still allow movement of water and air.
Tillage
Working the soil has definite benefits and should be part of preparing the land to be used for a high brix garden.
Sunlight
If plants do not have access to adequate light they will not reach their full potential. Light is the basic energy source for all crop growth. Even several cloudy days can significantly reduce brix readings.
Hybrids
As a general rule hybrid genetics do not pick up as much mineral from the soil as do open-pollinated genetics. It is strongly suggested to use open-pollinated genetics when striving for high brix.
Green Manures
Green manures are an important tool used to keep soils healthy, biologically active, and producing carbon dioxide. It is suggested that a high brix garden be divided into 5 parts. Every year 1 part can be used in rotation to grow green manure crops that can be worked back into the soil. Thus every 5 years the garden will have had 1 year of rest and fertility building.
 
Question: what would happen if i just stopped fertalising my 'soil' (i use westlands general with john innes no2) like normal and instead gave them an 18-1-1 calcium-Phos-potas feed instead?

Snip- i now understand that compost is basically immature humus and soil is humus and pulverised rocks.

looking for a general rule here, not an overly scientific answer.

question: if i had a general compost, i added an equal amount of barren soil (the sterilised lifeless crap you can buy as topsoil) to reduce that which is too much, and then added a whole bunch of random rock powders, is this a crude and effective brix soil?

Final question of the post: you can buy humus i think, can you buy its counter part, so that x+humus=good normal earth?
 
Top soil is certainly not barren by any means, its just sterilised by heat from pests/desease's & other plant seeds...


Random rock dusts are slow release nutrients which may take many months of friendly soil microbes to break down & make em aviable for the a plant to use... in the short flowering time of MJ 2 to 3 months average these rock dust minerils hardly become aviable to the plant.

Rock dust would be more suitable for out door grows if you was to use same location for plants year after year !

If you do wish to use rock dust minerils choose a finely ground/dust product as these are only slightly more readly aviable, but still slow release...


Its a pretty crude soil mix, could do better...

I'm pretty sure humus can be purchased from most good garden centres/DIY stores etc & normally sold as a compost activator for new compost heaps.

All humus is decayed/well rotted plant matter 'n' other stuff.
 
Top soil is certainly not barren by any means, its just sterilised by heat from pests/desease's & other plant seeds...


Random rock dusts are slow release nutrients which may take many months of friendly soil microbes to break down & make em aviable for the a plant to use... in the short flowering time of MJ 2 to 3 months average these rock dust minerils hardly become aviable to the plant.

Rock dust would be more suitable for out door grows if you was to use same location for plants year after year !

If you do wish to use rock dust minerils choose a finely ground/dust product as these are only slightly more readly aviable, but still slow release...


Its a pretty crude soil mix, could do better...

I'm pretty sure humus can be purchased from most good garden centres/DIY stores etc & normally sold as a compost activator for new compost heaps.

All humus is decayed/well rotted plant matter 'n' other stuff.

Humus can definatly be bought, its the other half that im hoping to find ;)

the top soil i was refering to was a very specific one (sold in wickes hardware store) there have been loads of complaints about how nothing wll grow in it especially grass, which is the main use for bagged topsoil. in this example i was thinking of it as a bulking agen to a general purpose compost to reduce the n-p-k per sqft as brix growing requires a tighter control over this aspect.
 
Been an interesting read the copyed extract & pasted link :thumb:

Kind of achieved a home mix brix soil by accident with out the the rock dust...

Biobizz all mix preloaded with some nutrients & enough for 4 weeks plant growth on average, this product does include worm casts which are known to be humus rich with friendly microbes 'n' stuff.
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Farm yard manure, aged manure which is humus rich has low NPK value & trace micro nutrients from animal urine present.
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Bat guano 15% P-phosphorus, 15% Ca-calcium plus other macro/micro nutrients which are considored base foundational minerils for brix soil as mention here - Mineralized Soil
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To bolster NPK ratio i've added chicken manure pellets which i'm sure contains trace micro nutrients as well.
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Soil mix is per 6 litre air pot - 3l of biobizz all mix, 3l of farm yard manure, 25 grams of bay guano, 25 grams of chicken manure pellets with PH holding steady around 6.8 to 6.9


Also use biobizz nutrients at a reduce rate of application due to improved soil mix to add even more micro nutrients i use alg-a-mic (cold pressed sea weed) bio heaven more of the common micro nutrients, top max contains fulvic acids etc for flowering plus fish mix/bio grow/bio bloom nutrients.


:peace:
 
Hey GiGaBaNE, I think that's a good explanation of what high Brix is all about... :thumb:

Our early attempts at high Brix have been promising, but until you have the soil tested, and then build the soil accordingly you're not going to be able to achieve the highest Brix. True high Brix also requires a special foliar feeding schedule to coax as much as you can out of the plant. DocBud is working on a purpose built high Brix soil with Pro-Mix HP as the base...when he's done, anyone should be able to start with an ideal soil.

My grow didn't include any of the high Brix foliar sprays, just potting soil, a little hen manure, some minerals and some fish fertilizer...then some microbe tea/yucca weekly. I can tell you the plants were healthier than anything else I've ever grown.

Been an interesting read the copyed extract & pasted link :thumb:

Kind of achieved a home mix brix soil by accident with out the the rock dust...

Biobizz all mix preloaded with some nutrients & enough for 4 weeks plant growth on average, this product does include worm casts which are known to be humus rich with friendly microbes 'n' stuff.

Farm yard manure, aged manure which is humus rich has low NPK value & trace micro nutrients from animal urine present.

Bat guano 15% P-phosphorus, 15% Ca-calcium plus other macro/micro nutrients which are considored base foundational minerils for brix soil as mention here - Mineralized Soil

To bolster NPK ratio i've added chicken manure pellets which i'm sure contains trace micro nutrients as well.

Soil mix is per 6 litre air pot - 3l of biobizz all mix, 3l of farm yard manure, 25 grams of bay guano, 25 grams of chicken manure pellets with PH holding steady around 6.8 to 6.9

Also use biobizz nutrients at a reduce rate of application due to improved soil mix to add even more micro nutrients i use alg-a-mic (cold pressed sea weed) bio heaven more of the common micro nutrients, top max contains fulvic acids etc for flowering plus fish mix/bio grow/bio bloom nutrients.

:peace:

Fuzzy, I'm sure you'll be able to grow some great buds in that mix, but it's pretty far from what we try to do with high brix.

A mineralized soil is essential...trying to load up the soil with NPK is exactly the opposite of what you do when building a high Brix soil...not to mention that all that phosphorus in the guano can actually kill beneficial microbes and fungi that are needed to break down the minerals, fungi like Mycorrhiza, for example, are especially sensitive to P.

You are correct that they take a while to break down...when growing outdoors you'd be amending the soil in the fall for next spring...but the following year would be even better for growing high Brix crops. That's why we mix the soil, water it down with a microbe tea and let it cook for 1-2 months before use. It doesn't seem like a long time, but when you have a bunch of hungry microbes, you'd be surprised how quickly they can make short work of what's in your soil. But yes, you do want to use finely ground rock powders.

I think Doc is on vacation, but I'm sure he'll chime in once he returns...

:ganjamon:
 
Hey GiGaBaNE, I think that's a good explanation of what high Brix is all about... :thumb:

Our early attempts at high Brix have been promising, but until you have the soil tested, and then build the soil accordingly you're not going to be able to achieve the highest Brix. True high Brix also requires a special foliar feeding schedule to coax as much as you can out of the plant. DocBud is working on a purpose built high Brix soil with Pro-Mix HP as the base...when he's done, anyone should be able to start with an ideal soil.

My grow didn't include any of the high Brix foliar sprays, just potting soil, a little hen manure, some minerals and some fish fertilizer...then some microbe tea/yucca weekly. I can tell you the plants were healthier than anything else I've ever grown.



Fuzzy, I'm sure you'll be able to grow some great buds in that mix, but it's pretty far from what we try to do with high brix.

A mineralized soil is essential...trying to load up the soil with NPK is exactly the opposite of what you do when building a high Brix soil...not to mention that all that phosphorus in the guano can actually kill beneficial microbes and fungi that are needed to break down the minerals, fungi like Mycorrhiza, for example, are especially sensitive to P.

You are correct that they take a while to break down...when growing outdoors you'd be amending the soil in the fall for next spring...but the following year would be even better for growing high Brix crops. That's why we mix the soil, water it down with a microbe tea and let it cook for 1-2 months before use. It doesn't seem like a long time, but when you have a bunch of hungry microbes, you'd be surprised how quickly they can make short work of what's in your soil. But yes, you do want to use finely ground rock powders.

I think Doc is on vacation, but I'm sure he'll chime in once he returns...

:ganjamon:

Good comments, i appreciate them =)

since i dont know my soil yet, but expect it to have definate gaps in its make up. im not able to switch to highbrix yet (Budget) but im trying to take litterally 1 or 2 steps towards it (as per the question at the bottom of my sig),

Would microbe tea and a minor boost to calcium in the soil be the two best things i could do to a standard grow to point me in the right direction?

Edit: all i feed them is liquid seaweed atm, i did have bonemeal and potash dressings for flowering, but not sure now what comes next, dont want to add too much P
 
Good comments, i appreciate them =)

since i dont know my soil yet, but expect it to have definate gaps in its make up. im not able to switch to highbrix yet (Budget) but im trying to take litterally 1 or 2 steps towards it (as per the question at the bottom of my sig),

Would microbe tea and a minor boost to calcium in the soil be the two best things i could do to a standard grow to point me in the right direction?

Edit: all i feed them is liquid seaweed atm, i did have bonemeal and potash dressings for flowering, but not sure now what comes next, dont want to add too much P

Sorry... Just realized you had a question in your signature. I posted over there, but I'm not home at the moment...I'll read through the posts again when I get back.
 
Foliar Feed Regularly

I do not have it in me to do full on high-brix growing ... but... I had an issue with a new plant and thought I would try to blast it with a foliar feed to see if would come around. It came around alright! and so did the other plants. I am now a full time foliar feeder (only in the veg room for me) the problem plant was the blue moonshine (middle, front, blue letters)

DSC_8542_room.jpg
 
Foliar Feed Regularly

I do not have it in me to do full on high-brix growing ... but... I had an issue with a new plant and thought I would try to blast it with a foliar feed to see if would come around. It came around alright! and so did the other plants. I am now a full time foliar feeder (only in the veg room for me) the problem plant was the blue moonshine (middle, front, blue letters)

DSC_8542_room.jpg

ok what type of foliar feed should i use. its a normal soil grow so one that is good for that, but preferably one that is compatible with high brix foliar, so i dont have to change my spray when i move over?
 
ok what type of foliar feed should i use. its a normal soil grow so one that is good for that, but preferably one that is compatible with high brix foliar, so i dont have to change my spray when i move over?

I have no idea if the product I am using will do .... so,

You will have to get the blessing from high-brix growers on the product I am using. I was pointed towards this product at my local grow store, it is Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6

Again I have no idea if this meets the needs of a high-brix grow but look what it did to that blue moonshine!!
 
Fuzzy, I'm sure you'll be able to grow some great buds in that mix, but it's pretty far from what we try to do with high brix.

A mineralized soil is essential...trying to load up the soil with NPK is exactly the opposite of what you do when building a high Brix soil...not to mention that all that phosphorus in the guano can actually kill beneficial microbes and fungi that are needed to break down the minerals, fungi like Mycorrhiza, for example, are especially sensitive to P.

You are correct that they take a while to break down...when growing outdoors you'd be amending the soil in the fall for next spring...but the following year would be even better for growing high Brix crops. That's why we mix the soil, water it down with a microbe tea and let it cook for 1-2 months before use. It doesn't seem like a long time, but when you have a bunch of hungry microbes, you'd be surprised how quickly they can make short work of what's in your soil. But yes, you do want to use finely ground rock powders.

I think Doc is on vacation, but I'm sure he'll chime in once he returns...

:ganjamon:


I understand what ya saying about true high brix method & cheers for the pointers in the right direction, i'm experiementing a little with soil mix's to see what they can achieve 'n' potential problems !


not to mention that all that phosphorus in the guano can actually kill beneficial microbes and fungi that are needed to break down the minerals, fungi like Mycorrhiza, for example, are especially sensitive to P.

I am aware of high p-phosphorus dosage being problematic & that the bat guano is used at half the stated application rate... including some research into what is regarded as high damaging dosage of phosphorus which yielded very little information !


I'm still looking for hard facts on the matter so that i can make an educated decision on future amendments of soil mix's tho...
 
I think their is in general a lack of information regarding high brix method to growing MMJ & what info is aviable is dotted between a journal here 'n' their...


In How to Grow Marijuana Everything You Need to Know


I challenge the greatest minds of the subject of the :420: to contribute to such a rewarding grow style !
 
I understand what ya saying about true high brix method & cheers for the pointers in the right direction, i'm experiementing a little with soil mix's to see what they can achieve 'n' potential problems !

not to mention that all that phosphorus in the guano can actually kill beneficial microbes and fungi that are needed to break down the minerals, fungi like Mycorrhiza, for example, are especially sensitive to P.

I am aware of high p-phosphorus dosage being problematic & that the bat guano is used at half the stated application rate... including some research into what is regarded as high damaging dosage of phosphorus which yielded very little information !

I'm still looking for hard facts on the matter so that i can make an educated decision on future amendments of soil mix's tho...

Yeah...it's funny how difficult hard facts can be to come by in the mmj community...that's one reason many of us look outside to the mainstream gardening community.

One of the products I began using is called BioVam...it's a mycorrhiza inoculant that I get from the same folks I get the Nature's Own Soil Life & Activator from. The documentation that came with it says the following:

Nutrient levels and precautions:

* Appropriate types of fertilizers: Use of BioVam Mycorrhiza requires that turf fertilizers have low soluble phosphorus levels. A percentage < or = to 2% by weight is safe to use. Higher levels of phosphorus are detrimental to the beneficial Mycorrhiza fungi. BE SURE TO INFORM ALL WHO MAY SHARE IN CARING FOR YOUR TREATED PLANTS, TREES, ETC., THIS CRITICAL INFORMATION ABOUT HOW TO CARE FOR THEM NOW THAT THEY ARE TREATED WITH BIOVAM. Examples of appropriate fertilizers: *Biosol Forte 7-2-1, *Ringers All Natural 10-2-6, *Milorganite 6-2-0, *Cottonseed Meal 6-2-1.

Avoid the use of green manure. The quick release nitrogen from green manure is not good for soil microbes. Use aged composted manure.

Avoid the use of chicken manure or Bat Guano. These substances are too high in phosphate and will damage your plants.

Certain fungicides, fumigants, and systemic substances can kill Mycorrhiza fungi. When the Mycorrhiza fungi die, it doesn't mean your plant will die, but the fungi are a primary source of nutrients coming into your plants and you may find your plants struggling to survive if they no longer have the Mycorrhiza fungi in their root systems.

Mycorrhiza cannot survive levels of steam pasteurization and fumigation, which are normally required to eliminate common soil pathogens.

Certain fungicides can also inhibit inoculation including Arasan, Benomyl, Botran, Mylone, and Thiabendazole.

Other fungicides, in selected studies, have shown little or no effect on infection and development of Endomycorrhiza. These include Ethoprop, Funsophothian, Ethazole, Captan, Maneb, Ridomil, Aliette, Pyroxzyclor, and Thiophanate. Some fungicides such as Ethazole (Terrazole and Truban), when applied at low rates (10-40 ppm) and at 30 to 60 days after inoculation can stimulate Mycorrhizal infection.
Now I'm not saying this is the final word by any means, but it's far more specific than the info available in any of my grow bibles, or books on organic gardening/compost tea that I've read.

The reason we don't have to worry a whole lot about NPK with high Brix is that plants use NPK...with a high Brix style you are almost ignoring the plants, and going out of your way to feed the soil (by that, I mean the microherd)...we just need a high mineral content (in the proper ratios) and enough organic materal for the microbes to stay happy. These little beasties break down the minerals in the soil which make them available to the plants when they die. There are even nitrogen fixing organisms (diazotrophs) that supply N to the plants by literally pulling it out of the air and converting it into forms usable by the plant, like ammonia.

I think their is in general a lack of information regarding high brix method to growing MMJ & what info is aviable is dotted between a journal here 'n' their...

In How to Grow Marijuana Everything You Need to Know

I challenge the greatest minds of the subject of the :420: to contribute to such a rewarding grow style !

GiGaBaNE is right...that is exactly what we are trying to do! There have only been a handful of high Brix cannabis grows so far, and none in a purpose built soil that I'm aware of. Thanks to DocBud that's going to change soon, but it's still going to take some time to nail down repeatable results. :thumb:

Anyway...I haven't vaped yet today, so I don't know if any of that is going to make sense! :)
 
all makes perfect sence.

one thing i have asked and hasnt yet got a response about is the use of a good mineral water as a substitue for mineralised soil?

i think there are some really enriched waters out there that might do the job.

Sorry...I don't have any information on that...
 
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