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Viparspectra lights

fanleaf

Well-Known Member
Since when do you need 600w for a seedling or up to 3 to 4 weeks in veg?
300w of mostly blue spectrum has worked very nicely for me.
You don't...It was an example and I think you know that. The OP's light is 260w. Besides that, it's not about wattage at all, it's about ppfd or par at the canopy. At full blast his light tests at 290umol/s in only a 1'x1' square at 24" and about 150umol/s in a 2x2...
Why the hell would you turn any part of that light down?
My point, and I'm sure you understand is that why would you kill the ppfd numbers by turning half the light off in an attempt to shorten node space? The 2 are opposite of each other. Keep the light at 100% in full spectrum, provide more photons=faster growth and shorter node spacing than blue only because we are twice or more the par levels.

2 things shorten node space right? Strong light and blue spectrum.....Strong full spectrum will win every time over 1/2 power light in blue spectrum.

I think you know these things and get the picture, you just like to be combative at times if anyone says anything contrary to your "wisdom". I'm good with that too but after 50 or 100 cycles striving to grow big dense, tight plants I know what has given me the results.
If lowering par levels to a lettuce grow level works for you that's great and I'm happy for ya!

Now, if the OP had a 1200 actual watt light that has the same adjustments then yes, turn the red down because you can still provide huge amounts of par with blue because you have so much more power on each side of the light. But with only a 260w light I would never run it at 100-130 watts in mostly blue thinking it's going to make internode spacing tighter than if I run the whole light. Not going to happen with that setup. Sorry sir.

Blue equals more leafy finish too. No thanks. Oh, and red spectrum photons carry more energy than blue.
 

Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
You don't...It was an example and I think you know that. The OP's light is 260w. Besides that, it's not about wattage at all, it's about ppfd or par at the canopy. At full blast his light tests at 290umol/s in only a 1'x1' square at 24" and about 150umol/s in a 2x2...
Why the hell would you turn any part of that light down?
My point, and I'm sure you understand is that why would you kill the ppfd numbers by turning half the light off in an attempt to shorten node space? The 2 are opposite of each other. Keep the light at 100% in full spectrum, provide more photons=faster growth and shorter node spacing than blue only because we are twice or more the par levels.

2 things shorten node space right? Strong light and blue spectrum.....Strong full spectrum will win every time over 1/2 power light in blue spectrum.

I think you know these things and get the picture, you just like to be combative at times if anyone says anything contrary to your "wisdom". I'm good with that too but after 50 or 100 cycles striving to grow big dense, tight plants I know what has given me the results.
If lowering par levels to a lettuce grow level works for you that's great and I'm happy for ya!

Now, if the OP had a 1200 actual watt light that has the same adjustments then yes, turn the red down because you can still provide huge amounts of par with blue because you have so much more power on each side of the light. But with only a 260w light I would never run it at 100-130 watts in mostly blue thinking it's going to make internode spacing tighter than if I run the whole light. Not going to happen with that setup. Sorry sir.

Blue equals more leafy finish too. No thanks. Oh, and red spectrum photons carry more energy than blue.
On that as far as his PPFD you are correct.

I was just making an observation of the difference between blue and red spectrum and the growth pattern and keeping plants short thick with tight node spacing.

But you really dont need a high PPFD the first few weeks.
That's why the lights are usually up 22 to 30" in early veg.

We're both saying virtually the same thing you know.

And where exactly am I being "combative"?
You might have me confused with Emily.
 
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fanleaf

Well-Known Member
On that as far as his PPFD you are correct.

I was just making an observation of the difference between blue and red spectrum and the growth pattern and keeping plants short thick with tight node spacing.

But you really dont need a high PPFD the first few weeks.
That's why the lights are usually up 22 to 30" in early veg.

We're both saying virtually the same thing you know.

And where exactly am I being "combative"?
You might have me confused with Emily.
Perhaps combative was a bad choice of word. Apologies.
 

ajr1030

Member
So the first image was the day we last spoke and here it is today after following your advice. About 10 days since it sprouted.
 

Zogs

Well-Known Member
I may not have the experience of others here but when I see my leaves doing that I raise the lights. As I mentioned earlier in this post, watch the edges of your leaves for starting to curl up. That is what yours are doing now. That is a sign to me you lights are too close. I would move them up.
 

fanleaf

Well-Known Member
I may not have the experience of others here but when I see my leaves doing that I raise the lights. As I mentioned earlier in this post, watch the edges of your leaves for starting to curl up. That is what yours are doing now. That is a sign to me you lights are too close. I would move them up.
I don't see any leaf issues here however usually any upward curl would be due to humidity and temp combination. Heat is okay as long as you have humidity with it.
 

Zogs

Well-Known Member
I don't see any leaf issues here however usually any upward curl would be due to humidity and temp combination. Heat is okay as long as you have humidity with it.
You can see the edges of the leaves starting to roll up. Have a close look in the first pic. It's not from heat it's from too much light stress. I'm willing to bet if he hasn't raised his lights already his next set of pics it will be more pronounced and starting to taco and twist.
 

fanleaf

Well-Known Member
You can see the edges of the leaves starting to roll up. Have a close look in the first pic. It's not from heat it's from too much light stress. I'm willing to bet if he hasn't raised his lights already his next set of pics it will be more pronounced and starting to taco and twist.
Well, it's like this. If you start a plant out inside under artificial light, then you move it outside in the sun to grow and flower it will stress a bit because of the huge difference in the weak indoor light and the sunlight. Once a plant gets use to the sunlight though, growth rates go crazy fast.
So, if y'all want to grow nice and soft with a light during the seedling stage and then be careful not to light stress your plant because it's only use to x amount of light then go for it.

There is no reason a seedling cannot handle 100% power of our weak little lights from day 1. This way, there is nothing they need to get use to. Again, seedlings outside get full sun from day one and never get light stress right? So why do people think starting this a seedling indoors under softer light is a good idea?
All this does is cause issues if you plan to turn up the light later. It's like having a plant under a humidity dome....You cant just remove the dome or you shock the plant. You have to harden the plant or ween it off the humidity dome.
If you want the fastest growth rates, start them from day one under intense lighting so they have nothing to get use to.
 
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Zogs

Well-Known Member
I'm still learning as I go and soaking up all the info I can. But can we agree this is light stress ?
I just don't see the benefit , especially with an auto. The young plant cant absorb that amount of light , and it seems like you would be essentially stunting your plant giving it no room to stretch. I've never grown outdoors, but I dont think i would give seedlings full on sun right away either.

I like to top/fim my auto's asap. Seems like early light stress might slow it down. With photo period I think I might be sold on pushing harder early, auto's I am not so sure.
Don't get me wrong, I'm only arguementative for the sake of learning and becoming a better grower.
 

fanleaf

Well-Known Member
I'm still learning as I go and soaking up all the info I can. But can we agree this is light stress ?
I just don't see the benefit , especially with an auto. The young plant cant absorb that amount of light , and it seems like you would be essentially stunting your plant giving it no room to stretch. I've never grown outdoors, but I dont think i would give seedlings full on sun right away either.

I like to top/fim my auto's asap. Seems like early light stress might slow it down. With photo period I think I might be sold on pushing harder early, auto's I am not so sure.
Don't get me wrong, I'm only arguementative for the sake of learning and becoming a better grower.
I too top my autos if it can be done by day 14 from the day the seedling pops from soil and above the 4th node and have produced some very big autos. I am known here to get very good yields from autos and I don't do that by treating them softly. Light=growth, if they get strong light from day 1 they don't need to get use to anything. No, I do not agree we are seeing light stress. It could be just as much an indicator of temperature and or humidity.
Does any weed plant grown outdoors where they get HUGE get softer light as a seedling? Nope, they don't. Do they light burn outside? Nope, they don't. Does the sunlight provide more intense light than ANY of our indoor lights? BY FAR!
Growing seedlings under soft light is simply something that has been parroted all around the internet and so people think it's just fact. Kinda how some people also swear FFOF soil is too hot for seedlings haha, no, it's not at all. It's another bit of parroted information.
My soil is 10 times hotter than FFOF and don't burn seedlings. My lights are wayyy more intense than ANY blurple LED can provide and they don't burn of stress my plants because they have seen intense lighting from day one.
Getting up to 6+ ounces from auto's my style works. Light equals growth. Changing from soft light to intense light can stress plants yes, but there will be no stress if the plants have always gotten that intense lighting under proper environmental conditions.
 

Zogs

Well-Known Member
It could be just as much an indicator of temperature and or humidity.
I saw the same curling on your auto seedlings. Was it temp or humidity problem ? Your girls grew out of it quite well, but could they have been better in the end ? I'm going to have to disagree with you that this isn't light stress, but you have me considering pushing my auto's harder into the light.
 

fanleaf

Well-Known Member
I saw the same curling on your auto seedlings. Was it temp or humidity problem ? Your girls grew out of it quite well, but could they have been better in the end ? I'm going to have to disagree with you that this isn't light stress, but you have me considering pushing my auto's harder into the light.
With hundreds of plants and seedlings yes, I have seen all sorts of issues along the way. Is every seedling perfect? No, and nor will yours be. Sometimes you have a weak seed or a weak set of genetics and there is nothing you can do about it. Now, after you run 50 or more grow cycles you get an idea of what works and what don't as well at affects the plants long term and what don't.
Not to mention when you grow several strains at the same time some of those strains like an environment better slightly different than the others. You can't please them all when you mix strains in a grow room.

Now, I'm about done hijacking the OP's thread espesially that we seem to be at a point to where going through journals to spot any flaws on seedlings is where we are. You have 1, 2 page journal here showing a nice looking 2 oz plant. Let me know when your auto's hit 6 dry ounces with nice soft light. I'll stick to what grows em big. Autoflowers are are the more reason to push them hard. You have a limited time of growth so taking it easy on them is not going to do it.
 

ajr1030

Member
The only concern I see is you're in a plastic pot that's only 1/2 full of soil.
Do you have a fan blowing on it 24/7?
I do have a small oscillating fan blowing 24/7. And yeah I couldn’t fill it toc to the tip top but that’s just because I didn’t have enough soil to fill all three 3.5 gal pots.
 
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