What is pH?

Re: Common household items for ph adjustment

Unless you have some extremely high ppm water, then it shouldn't really need ph adjusting anyway. The ph of a low ppm solution (as water should be) doesn't really matter much since it's easily shifted. But what matters in the end is what gets fed to the plant. So there wouldn't be any reason to adjust ph till you're at your final mix. If your water is so hard that it's causing precipitation or some sort of a bad reaction with your nutrients then it's best avoided anyway.
 
4Dutchess said:
The Health Wiser meter cost $25. and can be kept dry. I checked mine with Cal. fluid and it was 4.20 with 4 cal and 7.0 with 7 cal.
Anyone know the cause of this.....
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looks like nute burn or could be extremely low humidity ? Just a couple wild guesses.
 
Re: Common household items for ph adjustment

Weaselcracker said:
Unless you have some extremely high ppm water, then it shouldn't really need ph adjusting anyway. The ph of a low ppm solution (as water should be) doesn't really matter much since it's easily shifted. But what matters in the end is what gets fed to the plant. So there wouldn't be any reason to adjust ph till you're at your final mix. If your water is so hard that it's causing precipitation or some sort of a bad reaction with your nutrients then it's best avoided anyway.
Click to expand...
How does hard water cause precipatation?
 
Re: Common household items for ph adjustment

After thinking/researching a little more.

It wouldn't.

I least I don't think it would.

My bad. I think? I was grasping at straws trying to think under what conditions it would ever be necessary to neutralize plain water before adding nutrients. And there may be reasons- I just can't think of any.

What lead me to saying that is- some things will precipitate out of the nutrient solution when facing an opposing ph. Pretty much all my nutrients are acidic. The only thing that isn't - is silica, and it loves to precipitate in an acidic solution so I add it first and hope for the best. My ph- and ph+ solutions also both precipate to some extent when facing an opposing ph. So- in trying to think of a reason why you might want to neutralize plain water before adding nutrients- precipitation was the only possible reason I could think of. But reading up on it more I don't find any info about calcium precipitating out of water in an acidic solution. And when I think about it more, it doesn't make sense that it would. But I'm not a chemist. As you can see
 
Re: Common household items for ph adjustment

Weaselcracker said:
After thinking/researching a little more.

It wouldn't.

I least I don't think it would.

My bad. I think? I was grasping at straws trying to think under what conditions it would ever be necessary to neutralize plain water before adding nutrients. And there may be reasons- I just can't think of any.

What lead me to saying that is- some things will precipitate out of the nutrient solution when facing an opposing ph. Pretty much all my nutrients are acidic. The only thing that isn't - is silica, and it loves to precipitate in an acidic solution so I add it first and hope for the best. My ph- and ph+ solutions also both precipate to some extent when facing an opposing ph. So- in trying to think of a reason why you might want to neutralize plain water before adding nutrients- precipitation was the only possible reason I could think of. But reading up on it more I don't find any info about calcium precipitating out of water in an acidic solution. And when I think about it more, it doesn't make sense that it would. But I'm not a chemist. As you can see
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Well you're much closer to being a chemist, than I !! And this is why I'm paying thru the ass for nutrients. If I was a chemist, i'd start making nutrients. Must be pretty simple ??
By precipatation, I was thinking water coming out of the plants leaves. I find water drops on my plants, and couldn't figure out where the hell it came from . And you think the silica does that ?? I started using silica because It's supposed to build stronger stems & limbs ?
 
As cannabomb said- it could just be high RH. I can't think of any other cause- I haven't seen that issue myself - and I have pretty high RH. But I'm not a botanist either.
Just a lowly weasel exterminator.
 
I got a digital pH meter I just don't trust, NOT @ ALL

I can put it calibration solution 4.0, 7.0 & 10.0 and it reads right on the money, but in practical application it's off by a solid + 0.7. Granted it was a cheap-o on Amazon but WTF? How can it be so accurate in buffer solution an so inaccurate in application?

I use Indicator solution to check PH before adding noots. And I took a sufficient amount of chemistry (NOTE; before they let any one but the teacher have a digital pH meter ) so I know how to read indicator solution and test strips to know pH correctly

I do have a theory though, that it has something to do with the specific noots I use, HEAVY 16 I'm gonna call the 800# I think before I spend 4X as much on a new digital pH meter
 
Weedbud3393 said:
So what should the PH of soil be? Also how does this go for as far as fertilizer goes? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Mag :Namaste:

The soil should be around 6,5, and the fertilizers work in different ways depending on brand.
Don't stress about getting the pH of the soil just so, it rarely matters a lot and the micro organisms in the soil will regulate the pH.
If you grow organically, soil and run-off pH aren't worthwhile to measure let alone to try to control.

I use Biobizz nutes and for everyday watering I just use 2ml organic lemon juice per liter water to go from around pH 8 to around pH 7 before adding nutes, that's it. I only check the pH like every 3-6 months in case something has changed in the tap water.

Happy growing :passitleft:
 
UseMyName said:
I got a digital pH meter I just don't trust, NOT @ ALL

I can put it calibration solution 4.0, 7.0 & 10.0 and it reads right on the money, but in practical application it's off by a solid + 0.7. Granted it was a cheap-o on Amazon but WTF? How can it be so accurate in buffer solution an so inaccurate in application?

I use Indicator solution to check PH before adding noots. And I took a sufficient amount of chemistry (NOTE; before they let any one but the teacher have a digital pH meter ) so I know how to read indicator solution and test strips to know pH correctly

I do have a theory though, that it has something to do with the specific noots I use, HEAVY 16 I'm gonna call the 800# I think before I spend 4X as much on a new digital pH meter
Click to expand...
Get advanced nutrients ph perfect issue solved. Lol

Topping and F.I.Ming your Cannabis plants - YouTube how to top and Lst.

my journal
Auto Flower NYC Diesel & Regular Feminized White Cookies Grow
 
Using FFOF soil. Just transplanted to 1gal pots

Now am curious about my PH water.
Tap is about 7.5
RO from a dispence is at 6.2
Another dispencer is at 7.1


what water should I use.... im SOOOOOO Cornfused
 
They're both fine to use and probably both pretty much the same, which is -effectively neutral. As long as the ppm is low, meaning the water is quite pure, then the ph is basically a meaningless value and would be easily shifted by a drop or two of ph plus/minus
 
I do understand that promix hp is considered hydro. Therefor should get a ph of what? 5.5? What if it has been amended ? Will it make it soil and therefor a higher ph?
 
Eisenschwein said:
I do understand that promix hp is considered hydro. Therefor should get a ph of what? 5.5? What if it has been amended ? Will it make it soil and therefor a higher ph?
Click to expand...

I thought with the amount of people who insist ph is so important (I do believe it is) there would be more responses. Oh well.
 
if you're using straight soilless then the ph range is about 5.6-5.9 or so. I'm pretty familiar with that scenario.

If you treat your soilless like soil and add amendments like compost, and lime and other minerals, then yeah your ph range will shift more towards the soil range. Not having first hand knowledge of that though, I didn't post on here the first time I read this.
 
Weaselcracker said:
if you're using straight soilless then the ph range is about 5.6-5.9 or so. I'm pretty familiar with that scenario.

If you treat your soilless like soil and add amendments like compost, and lime and other minerals, then yeah your ph range will shift more towards the soil range. Not having first hand knowledge of that though, I didn't post on here the first time I read this.
Click to expand...

I added some lime, blood and bone meal and I added "fritted trace elements". That's why I'm a bit confused about the ph I should water with. Plants all looked good at the start till just about switch to flower. Now they all kinda look like lockout to various degrees. I checked my run off at 6.2 with my meter.
 

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