What is this mark

[BeginnerBud2]

Hello all I have recently upped my light from 250watts to 400watts. Upped .5ml to 1.0 ml of nutes still .75ml behind the feed schedule on my nutes chart. I am in coco and perlite. I need to get a ph pen and hygrometer asap.
I did give them a big drink last night which might mean over water?

 

[Homer Simpson]

Most people don't agree with me but here are my two cents for what they're worth.

Don't bother with a pH pen instead just use tap water and you will probably be fine in Coco. Don't worry about being behind in your nute schedule because when it comes to chemical fertilizers and cannabis plants generally less is more. Give them as little as possible to keep them healthy because more than they need just causes toxicity and won't give you bigger buds. It's hard to tell because you are focused on the soil and not the leaf but that discolouration just looks like some kind of problem the plant will grow out of so unless it gets worse ignore it.

If you are new to growing this video is probably about the most condensed general information on growing I have ever seen by someone who knows his stuff.

Good luck and welcome.

 

[Nunyabiz]

The mark is just leaf verigation.
Nothing to worry about.

There's virtually no such thing as over watering coco unless you just toss the pot into a swimming pool.
And every picture I see looks like they're dry as a bone.

 

[Pat Puffer]

I agree with Homer on the marks. It appears as a form of slight variegation or marbling of the cholorphyll.

I also am positive it will grow out of it.

 

[013]

Slight burn or discoloration from spilled nutes on leaf?

 

[BeginnerBud2]

Thankyou for the reply mate I might get a hygrometer to check temps and humidity. Thinking about getting a humidifier?
I wish I had my light set on all night when it gets cold and off during the warmer days I don't want to mess with there schedule now

 

[BeginnerBud2]

Slight burn or discoloration from spilled nutes on leaf?

I sometimes do get water on my leaves when the light is on, that could be it?

 

[Pat Puffer]

They are still very young.

Switching your "lights on" time would not send them in a tail spin.

 

[BeginnerBud2]

The mark is just leaf verigation.
Nothing to worry about.

There's virtually no such thing as over watering coco unless you just toss the pot into a swimming pool.
And every picture I see looks like they're dry as a bone.

The coco is really damp underneath the surface so I check that before I re water

 

[Homer Simpson]

Thankyou for the reply mate I might get a hygrometer to check temps and humidity. Thinking about getting a humidifier?
I wish I had my light set on all night when it gets cold and off during the warmer days I don't want to mess with there schedule now

I think a hygrometer is a good idea and they are pretty cheap to buy. I just leave my plants out in the open in the middle of my basement and I find if I keep my humidity at what is recommended for your home for your comfort and your house’s maintenance of between 30 and 40% in the winter and 40 to 50% in the summer plants are happy year-round at any stage of life.

My experience is people are overly concerned generally with humidity but try to avoid over 50% because of rot and mold. I bought a humidifier for my plants in the winter and it didn’t help them much but my allergies cleared up about 90% overnight. Your plants like what is good for you environment wise.

 

[BeginnerBud2]

The mark is just leaf verigation.
Nothing to worry about.

There's virtually no such thing as over watering coco unless you just toss the pot into a swimming pool.
And every picture I see looks like they're dry as a bone.

The coco is really damp underneath the surface so I check that before I

I think a hygrometer is a good idea and they are pretty cheap to buy. I just leave my plants out in the open in the middle of my basement and I find if I keep my humidity at what is recommended for your home for your comfort and your house’s maintenance of between 30 and 40% in the winter and 40 to 50% in the summer plants are happy year-round at any stage of life.

My experience is people are too overly concerned generally with humidity but try to avoid over 50% because of rot. I bought a humidifier for my plants in the winter and it didn’t help them much but my allergies cleared up about 90% overnight. Your plants like what is good for you environment wise.

Sounds like it might not be worth getting a humidifier then I'll assess what my range is and temp ranges. Gonna get a hygrow meter in the next day or two

 

[Nunyabiz]

The coco is really damp underneath the surface so I check that before I

Sounds like it might not be worth getting a humidifier then I'll assess what my range is and temp ranges. Gonna get a hygrow meter in the next day or two

If you want your plants growing at peak growth you need to try to keep your Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) in range.
In general for veg stage that would be something like 78-80 degrees and 65-75% humidity.
In flower I would do 75-77 degrees and 60% humidity to start then each week of flower lower your humidity by 5% until your in the 30s at the end.
If your VPD is wildly off for an extended period you could get deficiencies.

Vapour pressure deficit (VPD) in cannabis cultivation

Temperature and relative humidity play an important role in indoor marijuana cultivation since much of the plant's activity depends on these factors. Incorrect values of these two parameters will result in an invalid VPD (vapour pressure deficit), which will in turn result in poor plant...

www.alchimiaweb.com

 

[BeginnerBud2]

If you want your plants growing at peak growth you need to try to keep your Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD) in range.
In general for veg stage that would be something like 78-80 degrees and 65-75% humidity.
In flower I would do 75-77 degrees and 60% humidity to start then each week of flower lower your humidity by 5% until your in the 30s at the end.
If your VPD is wildly off for an extended period you could get deficiencies.

Vapour pressure deficit (VPD) in cannabis cultivation

Temperature and relative humidity play an important role in indoor marijuana cultivation since much of the plant's activity depends on these factors. Incorrect values of these two parameters will result in an invalid VPD (vapour pressure deficit), which will in turn result in poor plant...

www.alchimiaweb.com

I have made a journal, can you please follow and give me some advice along the way? I'll give you some numbers when I get my hygrow meter and workout what I need to change and how, cheers

 

[nickeluring]

Most people don't agree with me but here are my two cents for what they're worth.

Don't bother with a pH pen instead just use tap water and you will probably be fine in Coco.

Unless you're using chelated nutrients I suggest you ignore this advice. Get a pH pen and pH adjust your nute mix to about 5.9, or use chelated nutrients and skip the pH pen.

How often do you feed?
Do you feed with runoff?

 

[Homer Simpson]

Unless you're using chelated nutrients I suggest you ignore this advice. Get a pH pen and pH adjust your nute mix to about 5.9, or use chelated nutrients and skip the pH pen.

How often do you feed?
Do you feed with runoff?

I would suggest ignoring the above advice and instead, read this thread which explains why most of us no longer adjust nutrient water pH.

Do we need to pH adjust our nutrient solutions?

Greetings all! I recently had a running email conversation with the "Grower Services & Product Development Director" at ProMix (aka Premier Tech). I began the conversation by posting a question on their website, asking if I should be treating ProMix HP as soil or soil-less when mixing...

www.420magazine.com

If you don't feel like reading the thread here are some pertinent excerpts:

"However, pH of nutrient water is irrelevant to the pH of any soil or growing media. It is the alkalinity of nutrient water and the potential acidity/basicity of the fertilizer(s) that influence the pH of the growing medium and root zone. For example, if the alkalinity of nutrient water is moderate or high, pH of growing medium will rise over time.
a. Plant roots are electrically charged and must maintain a neutral balance.
b. For ammonium nitrogen (NH4) fertilizers, plants release of hydrogen ions to take up NH4. Hydrogen released is essentially acid and this drives pH down.
c. For nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen in fertilizers, plant exchange hydroxyl ions for NO3 uptake, which causes growing medium pH to rise.
d. Alkalinity (CACO3) is essentially dissolved limestone. The higher the alkalinity of water, the greater tendency to raise pH of growing medium over time."

"And at the bottom of that summary I added one last direct question:
"If I’m growing in ProMix HP and I mix up the nutrient solution and it reads 7.4 pH, it is not necessary for me to adjust that number down using phosphoric acid or the like. I can pour it into the pot at 7.4 and my plants will be able to uptake those nutrients?"
His response was a direct "Yes." "