Slinks
Well-Known Member
I have a 4x4x2 tent running 400w + 600w lights my current rvk fan is rated at 365m3/h my temps are hitting 33c should I upgrade my ducting n fan to 700m3 or would money be better spent on Aircon for the room?
What's correct ventilation for 1000W
- Thread starter Slinks
- Start date
i shoot for an air exchange every 2 to 5 min. that may be overkill. i size it for the room not the lights. would consider air con if exchange is towards the 2 min level and temps persist.
Purpsmagurps
Well-Known Member
if your outside humidity lets you move that much air without getting too dry. Might need a humidifier to get back into vpd
good point. never had a hassel with humidity. if anything it was a bit high due to hydro. i wanna try coco and that may change things up. testing all this with my new set up. exchange is currently every two minutes. sorry i'm threadjacking now...d'oh
- Thread starter
- #5
Slinks
Well-Known Member
Outside humidity is 65%+ curing/drying weed is a bitch....
And I also never have a problem with getting high humidity, its the other way round for me.
Ha threadjacking is fine its relevant..
I normally use the extraction to provide enough air exchange every 3 minutes or less... but with 33c heat if im exchanging hot air for cool air quicker than before, then my air temp heat will come down right???
And I also never have a problem with getting high humidity, its the other way round for me.
Ha threadjacking is fine its relevant..
I normally use the extraction to provide enough air exchange every 3 minutes or less... but with 33c heat if im exchanging hot air for cool air quicker than before, then my air temp heat will come down right???
- Thread starter
- #6
Slinks
Well-Known Member
Its the same money for portable aircon/evaporative cooler.. as bigger extractor fan... so whatever is gonna bring my heat down. Unless someones got a better method??? more fans??? u can see my tent in my sig journal
1,000 watts of light works out to roughly 3,412 BTU per hour of heat.
What's the temperature of your intake air? If the differential is low enough, it takes significantly more airflow to control temperatures (obviously). If it's 30°C where you're getting your intake air from... then your tent only being 3°C higher is not bad. If, OtOH, that intake air is only 20°C, then you have an airflow problem.
Are you actually getting 365 m³/hour of airflow from your exhaust fan? Most fan ratings are "no-load" ratings - and some brands'/models' performance really tanks under any kind of load (carbon filter, et cetera).
Are the 400-watt and 600-watt lights both HIDs? If so, do you have them in air-cooled reflectors? IF SO... do you have those lights on a separate ventilation run? And have you added those "reflector insulator" blanket/wrap things? They seem to help (a little) minimize heat transference from one's lights to one's grow space, and they're a one-time expense.
Air-cooled HID setups are awesome, IMHO. Big LED panels with little computer-style fans in their cases and no attached duct flanges so that one cannot easily connect them to ventilation runs... much less so. It means the user is forced to treat his/her lighting and grow space as one thing instead of two. Also, the power supplies for most LED grow light panels are inside the case - which is much like having an HID and deciding to place its ballast into the grow room, LMAO... an extra heat-producing device that has no reason to be inside the grow space.
Most portable air conditioners suck. The remaining few... well, they suck, too, lol, just a wee bit less. IF you are forced to go this route, make sure you get a dual-hose model. That'll help a little. A window (or through-the-wall) unit would be cheaper, more efficient (cost less per month to run), and cool better. An inverter mini-split air conditioner setup would be even more efficient, and could potentially cool more than just your grow tent (I've seen mini-split kits with up to five individual room units, but three seems more common) - but is significantly more expensive to purchase (and you may require a professional to install it). All the portable a/c units I looked at (I researched them for my mother, who - like me - melts at 20°C
) had really short hoses - and, although a couple stated in their documentation that the user could link two hoses together, I think the longest I found that one could be placed from a window was something like nine feet (about 2¾ meters). That might cause some inconvenience, if your tent happens to be hidden in a closet instead of placed relatively close to a window. I did look at a halfway-decent Whynter unit, and this was a dual-hose model. It was rated 14,000 BTU. In practice, though, it was probably on par with a 8,000 window a/c unit (or slightly more) - whilst using as much electricity as a good 14,000 BTU window unit.
What's the temperature of your intake air? If the differential is low enough, it takes significantly more airflow to control temperatures (obviously). If it's 30°C where you're getting your intake air from... then your tent only being 3°C higher is not bad. If, OtOH, that intake air is only 20°C, then you have an airflow problem.
Are you actually getting 365 m³/hour of airflow from your exhaust fan? Most fan ratings are "no-load" ratings - and some brands'/models' performance really tanks under any kind of load (carbon filter, et cetera).
Are the 400-watt and 600-watt lights both HIDs? If so, do you have them in air-cooled reflectors? IF SO... do you have those lights on a separate ventilation run? And have you added those "reflector insulator" blanket/wrap things? They seem to help (a little) minimize heat transference from one's lights to one's grow space, and they're a one-time expense.
Air-cooled HID setups are awesome, IMHO. Big LED panels with little computer-style fans in their cases and no attached duct flanges so that one cannot easily connect them to ventilation runs... much less so. It means the user is forced to treat his/her lighting and grow space as one thing instead of two. Also, the power supplies for most LED grow light panels are inside the case - which is much like having an HID and deciding to place its ballast into the grow room, LMAO... an extra heat-producing device that has no reason to be inside the grow space.
Most portable air conditioners suck. The remaining few... well, they suck, too, lol, just a wee bit less. IF you are forced to go this route, make sure you get a dual-hose model. That'll help a little. A window (or through-the-wall) unit would be cheaper, more efficient (cost less per month to run), and cool better. An inverter mini-split air conditioner setup would be even more efficient, and could potentially cool more than just your grow tent (I've seen mini-split kits with up to five individual room units, but three seems more common) - but is significantly more expensive to purchase (and you may require a professional to install it). All the portable a/c units I looked at (I researched them for my mother, who - like me - melts at 20°C
) had really short hoses - and, although a couple stated in their documentation that the user could link two hoses together, I think the longest I found that one could be placed from a window was something like nine feet (about 2¾ meters). That might cause some inconvenience, if your tent happens to be hidden in a closet instead of placed relatively close to a window. I did look at a halfway-decent Whynter unit, and this was a dual-hose model. It was rated 14,000 BTU. In practice, though, it was probably on par with a 8,000 window a/c unit (or slightly more) - whilst using as much electricity as a good 14,000 BTU window unit.- Thread starter
- #8
Slinks
Well-Known Member
1,000 watts of light works out to roughly 3,412 BTU per hour of heat.
What's the temperature of your intake air? If the differential is low enough, it takes significantly more airflow to control temperatures (obviously). If it's 30°C where you're getting your intake air from... then your tent only being 3°C higher is not bad. If, OtOH, that intake air is only 20°C, then you have an airflow problem.
Are you actually getting 365 m³/hour of airflow from your exhaust fan? Most fan ratings are "no-load" ratings - and some brands'/models' performance really tanks under any kind of load (carbon filter, et cetera).
Are the 400-watt and 600-watt lights both HIDs? If so, do you have them in air-cooled reflectors? IF SO... do you have those lights on a separate ventilation run? And have you added those "reflector insulator" blanket/wrap things? They seem to help (a little) minimize heat transference from one's lights to one's grow space, and they're a one-time expense.
Air-cooled HID setups are awesome, IMHO. Big LED panels with little computer-style fans in their cases and no attached duct flanges so that one cannot easily connect them to ventilation runs... much less so. It means the user is forced to treat his/her lighting and grow space as one thing instead of two. Also, the power supplies for most LED grow light panels are inside the case - which is much like having an HID and deciding to place its ballast into the grow room, LMAO... an extra heat-producing device that has no reason to be inside the grow space.
Most portable air conditioners suck. The remaining few... well, they suck, too, lol, just a wee bit less. IF you are forced to go this route, make sure you get a dual-hose model. That'll help a little. A window (or through-the-wall) unit would be cheaper, more efficient (cost less per month to run), and cool better. An inverter mini-split air conditioner setup would be even more efficient, and could potentially cool more than just your grow tent (I've seen mini-split kits with up to five individual room units, but three seems more common) - but is significantly more expensive to purchase (and you may require a professional to install it). All the portable a/c units I looked at (I researched them for my mother, who - like me - melts at 20°C
My incoming air is about 24c.. I live in lanzarote, 70miles off coast of morroco and sahara desert I had a 400w in cooltube with same extraction and the tent was sitting between 24c and 27c day and night roughly.
I bought a 600w with adjust-a-wing and so I have currently carbon filter in tent > fan -> 400w cool tube -> ducting to outside. Im proabably not getting 365m due to the bends and shiz in the ducting line. I could buy a 600w cool tube and put the light in the run? Ive never heard of the blanket insulater but i'll look it up,
Ideally id like to reduce my temps to at least 24c in the tent all the time, so whilst another cool tube might help i doubt i'll get the 24c i want more like 27c as before... its not even summer yet. So my best option i think is cooling the air coming in. So either higher extractor m3/h and more ossicallating fans? to make sure that 33c air is removed quicker and my air temps or a colder intake, aircon for the room or tent???
I'm not a big fan of Cool Tubes in general, but your 600-watt HPS needs to be in some kind of air-cooled ("sealed") reflector, IMHO.
I don't know whether or not they make those insulator products for Cool Tubes. I doubt it, but it would be worth checking into.
BtW, a lights-on temperature of 27°C wouldn't bother me in the least, especially if I was providing the plants enough light to support it (they can utilize more light-energy at higher temperatures, and that's not the top of the range - or even the top of the range with no supplemental CO₂). Much higher and I'd start getting pretty concerned, because I wouldn't want to end up with airy buds. To be honest with you, if I was giving the plants all the light-energy that they could possibly use, I'd probably shoot for a maximum temperature of 86°F to 88°F (30°C to 31.1°C) - and grow them in LARGE DWC reservoirs, 20 to 25 gallons (75.7 to 94.6 liters) each, one plant per reservoir (they can support large plants, lol), provide massive amounts of DO (dissolved oxygen) at the rootzone, and a high amount of airflow across and through the plants' canopies. This kind of setup both allows and encourages plants to "self-cool" by transpiring massive amounts of water every day.
This is how plants can not only survive but thrive outdoors, even in hot regions. And why an average oak tree can transpire 40,000 gallons (151,000 liters) of water per year.
As you have mentioned, it isn't even Summer yet. Therefore, what I'd suggest is to do everything you can other than adding air conditioning NOW. Keep the a/c option open, though, for when the ambient temperature becomes really murderous, lol. At worst, you'll have to go ahead and buy one anyway - but, even then, what you do now will help you when you do. IMHO, of course.
DISCLAIMER: I do not live in an oven (although it feels like it to me every Summer), lol, and the absolute highest indoor cannabis garden temperature I have ever personally experienced was "only" around 105°F (40.6°C) - and that was for just under a week (remainder of the flowering phase was mostly very high 80s to low-mid 90s). Those plants survived with no real issues, but the buds were somewhat airy that year - and I was doing the DWC thing (soil-grown plants might have become compost
).
I don't know whether or not they make those insulator products for Cool Tubes. I doubt it, but it would be worth checking into.
BtW, a lights-on temperature of 27°C wouldn't bother me in the least, especially if I was providing the plants enough light to support it (they can utilize more light-energy at higher temperatures, and that's not the top of the range - or even the top of the range with no supplemental CO₂). Much higher and I'd start getting pretty concerned, because I wouldn't want to end up with airy buds. To be honest with you, if I was giving the plants all the light-energy that they could possibly use, I'd probably shoot for a maximum temperature of 86°F to 88°F (30°C to 31.1°C) - and grow them in LARGE DWC reservoirs, 20 to 25 gallons (75.7 to 94.6 liters) each, one plant per reservoir (they can support large plants, lol), provide massive amounts of DO (dissolved oxygen) at the rootzone, and a high amount of airflow across and through the plants' canopies. This kind of setup both allows and encourages plants to "self-cool" by transpiring massive amounts of water every day.
This is how plants can not only survive but thrive outdoors, even in hot regions. And why an average oak tree can transpire 40,000 gallons (151,000 liters) of water per year.
As you have mentioned, it isn't even Summer yet. Therefore, what I'd suggest is to do everything you can other than adding air conditioning NOW. Keep the a/c option open, though, for when the ambient temperature becomes really murderous, lol. At worst, you'll have to go ahead and buy one anyway - but, even then, what you do now will help you when you do. IMHO, of course.
DISCLAIMER: I do not live in an oven (although it feels like it to me every Summer), lol, and the absolute highest indoor cannabis garden temperature I have ever personally experienced was "only" around 105°F (40.6°C) - and that was for just under a week (remainder of the flowering phase was mostly very high 80s to low-mid 90s). Those plants survived with no real issues, but the buds were somewhat airy that year - and I was doing the DWC thing (soil-grown plants might have become compost
).
