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What's wrong?

RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
I’m growing gorilla glue autoflower in living soil. It’s 37 days old today. A week ago I noticed brown spots on some of my big oldest fan leaves and now they are starting to yellow. These auto flowers according to the manufacture are supposed to be finished and 56 to 70 days. This is my very first grow so I have nothing to compare with. I did a top dressing of living soil and watered it in a week ago when this started and it didn’t help so then I did a supplemental feeding with some organic fertilizer 11/3/8 of nutrients 3 days ago and not helped. My water is ph adjusted rain water to 6.6. I’m Growing in fabric 3 gallon pot. I feel like since I just got bud sites about a week ago that I am not near close enough to be seeing the nitrogen deficiency that is normally seen a few weeks before it’s time to harvest. There are not any known insects in my tent that I am aware of. I have a moisture meter and I water about every 2 to 3 days at the most. Does anyone know what could be wrong?
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013

Member of the Month: Aug 2021
Hey RN,

Welcome to 420. Your girl looks pretty good. Typically the prong type moisture meters are very inaccurate and best used for roasting hotdogs or marshmallows. Think part of the discoloration is from watering too frequently. I did notice some tiny spots, bumps, chewed edges and specs on your leaves that could be pests. Mites and other garden pests are camouflaged or freaking tiny and most go unnoticed until they have a firm grip on the host plant. Do you have a jewelers loupe, mini microscope or magnification device? If not there is smartphone app called magnifyer that should work. I would snip a few affected leaves and scope the underside for eggs.

based on that pic I’m not seeing bud sites but I would get after the pest thing pronto cuz you want to figure out that part right away. Also don’t let your fabric pots sit in runoff water - if possible get them elevated on a grate above a drip pan and get airflow underneath, weed plants don’t like wet feet.

Can you add a few more pics?

that’s my 2 cents more will jump in soon
 
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Nunyabiz

Well-Known Member
Hard to tell by that one pic but doesn't appear to be a deficiency.
In a 3 gal fabric pot i wouldn't think you could over water it if you wanted to unless your soil is mud.
Iam thinking possibly an excess of something like nitrogen from a few clawed leaf tips I see plus the 11 on your NPK and that excess could be locking out other nutrients.

Maybe try a reboot.
Flush the pot with about 10 gallons of fresh dechlorinated water with a little Yucca Extract added to the water.
And I'd bump down the pH to 6.2
 
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RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
Hard to tell by that one pic but doesn't appear to be a deficiency.
In a 3 gal fabric pot i wouldn't think you could over water it if you wanted to unless your soil is mud.
Iam thinking possibly an excess of something like nitrogen from a few clawed leaf tips I see plus the 11 on your NPK and that excess could be locking out other nutrients.

Maybe try a reboot.
Flush the pot with about 10 gallons of fresh dechlorinated water with a little Yucca Extract added to the water.
And I'd bump down the pH to 6.2
Ok thanks so much
 

SoGnotSOG321

Well-Known Member
Will finish 50 to 70 days past the start of flowering. What? They got you too! You over did the top dressing thing ok? Way early for that. Not much to offer without a better picture and some more specs, add some extra calcium because rain water has no minerals in it like city tap water. Ph your water to 6.4 maximum. Better than the twig meter is a thermometer hydrometer combo, a couple, one for up high and another for lower down. Use those to guide your humidity levels rather than trying to keep your soil wet or moist. Keep the water away from the main stalk and off the leaves.
 

Bill284

Member of the Month: March 2021; April 2022 - Grow Journal of the Month: April 2021 - Plant of the Month: Nov 2021 - Member of the Year: 2021
Will finish 50 to 70 days past the start of flowering. What? They got you too! You over did the top dressing thing ok? Way early for that. Not much to offer without a better picture and some more specs, add some extra calcium because rain water has no minerals in it like city tap water. Ph your water to 6.4 maximum. Better than the twig meter is a thermometer hydrometer combo, a couple, one for up high and another for lower down. Use those to guide your humidity levels rather than trying to keep your soil wet or moist. Keep the water away from the main stalk and off the leaves.
Too much water can kill your girls. Especially autos. They are finicky buggers from what I've read. You should read the thread in emilyas signature about the proper way to water a potted plant. Its good info every new grower should read.
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019, June 2022 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020, Aug 2021, June 2022
The clawing, tip burn and dangerously deep green color tell me that we are looking at Nitrogen toxicity... you have given too much nutrient. The yellowing at the base of a few leaves looks like a phosphorus lockout, caused by too much Nitrogen... hence the name toxicity when referring to N... too much of it locks out many things, and can be quite toxic to the plant.

Another point is that in an organic grow, there is no need to adjust pH. The ONLY reason we adjust pH is for bottled synthetic nutes, so we can put them in a narrow range where the nutrients break free of their salt bonds and become available to the plant. You don't need to adjust pH on your rain water in an organic grow.
 

RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
The clawing, tip burn and dangerously deep green color tell me that we are looking at Nitrogen toxicity... you have given too much nutrient. The yellowing at the base of a few leaves looks like a phosphorus lockout, caused by too much Nitrogen... hence the name toxicity when referring to N... too much of it locks out many things, and can be quite toxic to the plant.

Another point is that in an organic grow, there is no need to adjust pH. The ONLY reason we adjust pH is for bottled synthetic nutes, so we can put them in a narrow range where the nutrients break free of their salt bonds and become available to the plant. You don't need to adjust pH on your rain water in an organic grow.
Will the plant grow out of the toxicity or do I need to flush it and lose all my soil nutrients because Im growing in living soil?
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019, June 2022 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020, Aug 2021, June 2022
Will the plant grow out of the toxicity or do I need to flush it and lose all my soil nutrients because Im growing in living soil?
I think it will grow out of it... just give plain water for a bit and lets see what the baseline looks like.
 

RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
The clawing, tip burn and dangerously deep green color tell me that we are looking at Nitrogen toxicity... you have given too much nutrient. The yellowing at the base of a few leaves looks like a phosphorus lockout, caused by too much Nitrogen... hence the name toxicity when referring to N... too much of it locks out many things, and can be quite toxic to the plant.

Another point is that in an organic grow, there is no need to adjust pH. The ONLY reason we adjust pH is for bottled synthetic nutes, so we can put them in a narrow range where the nutrients break free of their salt bonds and become available to the plant. You don't need to adjust pH on your rain water in an organic grow.

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RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
I think it will grow out of it... just give plain water for a bit and lets see what the baseline looks like.
Thanks I uploaded 4 more pictures. The largest plant is my gorilla glue and the other three are my northern light autos all in living soil and so are those not bud sites that I’m looking at on two of the four plants because I don’t really know what I’m looking at
 

Emilya

Member of the Month: Mar 2019, June 2022 - Grow Journal of the Month: Jan 2020, Aug 2021, June 2022
looks like you have been overwatering a bit too... the leaves should be lifting up, not laying down. Wait until the soil dries out all the way to the bottom before watering next time, and lets see the difference.
 

RetiredRN

Well-Known Member
Hey RN,

Welcome to 420. Your girl looks pretty good. Typically the prong type moisture meters are very inaccurate and best used for roasting hotdogs or marshmallows. Think part of the discoloration is from watering too frequently. I did notice some tiny spots, bumps, chewed edges and specs on your leaves that could be pests. Mites and other garden pests are camouflaged or freaking tiny and most go unnoticed until they have a firm grip on the host plant. Do you have a jewelers loupe, mini microscope or magnification device? If not there is smartphone app called magnifyer that should work. I would snip a few affected leaves and scope the underside for eggs.

based on that pic I’m not seeing bud sites but I would get after the pest thing pronto cuz you want to figure out that part right away. Also don’t let your fabric pots sit in runoff water - if possible get them elevated on a grate above a drip pan and get airflow underneath, weed plants don’t like wet feet.

Can you add a few more pics?

that’s my 2 cents more will jump in soon

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5970EB71-5249-47A7-BD51-F5C557C1CA7B.jpeg


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SoGnotSOG321

Well-Known Member
? What is "a living soil" specifically a commercial brand bag mix, or something you put together with various ingredients ? Either one should have enough nutrients well past the first month unless the commercial stuff was some low nutrient stuff. I'm using a well recommended pre-mix called Ocean Forest in 5 gallon fabric pots filled to the brim (16 pounds or half a big bag roughly) after using a mixture I had been using for decades on mostly outside grows with great results. It just didn't work so well inside.
 
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