Why is my yield so low?

[PotChimp]

Ok guys, sorry this took me so long but I had to leave town. Everything looks to be fine in the garden except for the bubblegummers which i will post a couple pics of in a second, nut here are some recent photos from the flowering room to give you a better idea of what I am working with. I am also positive I just need to Veg the plants longer, I was only giving them a week or two after they hit maturity... But anyways my new major concern is the two bubblegummer. They have gotten exactly the same treatment as all the other plants but they look horrible and I don't understand. Also it seems that after the new growth comes in all nasty and twistedm it seems to get more normal over time. Someone please HELP!!!

This is ow all leaves look, post another in a sec.

From Hemp Diseases and Pests:

Phosphorus : Excess P reduces the availability of zinc, iron, magnesium, and calcium in new leaves. Watch for deficiency symptoms of these elements, especially zinc.

Zinc : Deficiency causes interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves. New leaves grow torqued and twisted, and may drop off the plant prematurely. Flowers grow small and deformed, stems are short and brittle.

Iron : Young leaves deficient in iron develop interveinal chlorosis with green veins, like symptoms of Mn deficiency. Leaves may turn completely white with necrotic margins.

Magnesium : Deficiency causes older leaves to develop interveinal chlorosis - the margins between leaf veins turn yellow, leaving only dark green veins. In extreme cases leaves turn white. Berger described grey-white spotting in lower leaves of stunted plants.

Calcium : Deficient leaves are distorted and withered, their margins curl, and tips hook back. Apical buds may wither and die. Plants are stunted, stalks are brittle, roots are discolored and excessively branched.

Excessive phosphorus or phosphorus toxicity, maybe?

 

[FrankFoster]

If you a looking at deficiencies then that's ph lockout calcium def, boron def, combine that with what is called fungal infection... Leaves look bad.

You probably let the ph go up. Lockout. Then the calcium def and lockout occurred similarly. Brown dry spots. Chlolosis started on most uncommon mgdef with boron def at the higher ph range...

Then you fixed the ph and nutes got back up takin...so the leaves got darker, but that sheen and that necrosis equals fungus foothold. Now it's just my opinion, but dump that line ASAP.

Pictures equal thousand words. But when new growth is doing this... Or it's around healthy plants, what if? Spreads, or is toxic, or micro-spored. What if.

 

[PotChimp]

From Hemp Diseases and Pests, Chapter 5 - Fungal diseases:
Fusarium Wilt
Disease Cycle and Epidemiology: F. Oxysporum overwinters as chlamydospores in soil or crop debris. In the spring, chlamydospores produce hyphae which directly penetrate roots of seedlings. In older "root hardened" plants, the hyphae must enter via wounds. Clarke reported a wet-dry-wet summer predisposed plants to a fusarium epidemic.
Fusarium wilt is a warm weather disease. Optimal temperature for fungal growth is 26 degrees Celcius.
There is no windborne transmission. Conidia arising on dead plants may be rain-splashed onto neighbors. Chlamydospores also arise on dead plants. F. Oxysporum invades Cannabis seeds.

Cultural and Mechanical Control: Methods 1 (sanitation), and 11 (avoid seedborne infection) provide a cornerstone for wilt control. Methods 2b&c (sterlizing or pasteurizing soil) often work. Flooding soil (method 2d) kills strongly aerobic Fusarium species while maintaining a beneficial bacteria population.
Generally, fibre plants have more resistance than drug plants.
Soil deficiencies in calcium and potash predispose plants to wilt disease and must be corrected. Excess nitrogen increases wilt disease.
Lucas cited interesting atmospheric studies: as CO2 increases, F. Oxysporum replication decreases. Supplementing a glasshouse with 20% CO2 cut F. Oxysporum growth rate and spore production by 50%.

Thawk I think that whichever problem it is flushing should at least help if not fix it completely. Won't hurt to try, I say.

Sorry about all the long-winded info; I cut some out to make it read a little easier reading. Good luck.

 

[PotChimp]

I've never read up on symtoms of excessive amounts of CO2 to cannabis, but I wonder about it a lot. I'm at about 82 degrees in my grow areas which is good for CO2 absorbtion, but at your room temps of mid-to-low 70s, I don't know if the plants can take CO2 in easily.

 

[68camaro]

the temps are key to absorbtion and the rate of absorbtion. lower temps equals less neuts.absorbtion, no matter what they are, certain criteria must be met to grow an outstanding plant.
peace

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Interesting leaf deformation... reminds me of an ex girl friend


I'll have to give this some thought with out the beer goggles on.

 

[Thawk]

Ok thanks guys, the fungus sounds like a possibility, as these plants haven't looked normal at any point in their lives and every other plant in that room looks great. I will try flushing today.

 

[Icemud]

It doesn't quite look like photo's I've seen but it does also resemble tobacco mosaic virus....

Sorry to hear of your troubles with the plant... I've had my share with one of my varieties and its been puzzling me too...I traced it to a severe ph lockout, where more than one micro/macro was getting locked out which led to very odd leaf distortion...

Sorry I couldn't help more

 

[FrankFoster]

Keeping that gene-line is a waste bro. Have you considered the ramifications of that fungal virus spreading?

That looks like a wood chipper fodder write-off.

It was probably already infected in the seed-pod, the bubblegummers are bad when they are accompanied by the wilt. BTW the person you secured that gene-line from, has this problem in their garden and knew about the problem when the seeds/clones were given.

 

[nibec]

in regaurding low yeild...

lst, and you say there is plasma in there?

i was watching a grow journal where they had a 180W plasma, and did a run, then added 80W of LED to it as well, and in the exact same conditions, were getting smaller flowers... then soon as they turned the LED off. The plants increased thier growth rate again.

everyone involved in that was stumped... you would think, more light = better... but from what it seems... LED and plasma arent very compatible... they are running some more trials on them soon to see if it was a fluke, or what exactly is going on there.

 

[68camaro]

the right light makes all the difference, you can grow with a lot of different lights. only a few will give you what your lookin for, buds as big as your arm! spectrum and intensity is key to larger yields!
peace

 

[Mark30g]

Mmm all that equipment makes me wonder some days.


Well the plants don't like something their & you mentioned something about very high temperature in one of the journals more likely a problem with your enviroment ?

Is their much difference between lights on temps & lights off temps ?

Total average temps etc

Do you have good enough ventilation for air exchange ?

Hi Fuzzy, i'm also wondering if this us also we're I could also be going wrong as my day time temps are 83.3° f and @ nite time I purposely open the window to get my temps den to 63.°. As my day time temps was @93.°f+ before my new exhaust fan.

 

[Thawk]

Well I am limited on lights due to heat and space issues so let's assume lighting can not be improved enough to really matter. I have a plant coming off before long that looks to be a high producer, it had a good bit longer in veg so I imagine this is my problem. As far as the bubblegummer, it came from a seed bank and one looks like it is showing signs of recovery. Updates soon.

 

[68camaro]

what r on the walls for light reflection?

 

[bigchief1000]

Have you thought of trying a regular HPS 1000w to run during flower cycle on your third attempt? If not I would recommend that you try it I bet you get the results your looking for.

LED lights have been provender and over again that they are far better than HPS in every aspect. The problem with low yield is the amount of Lumens per square foot. I am a light technician and 98% of growers over look lighting and have the worst lighting set ups money can buy. Read lighting and plant charts and learn what the plants use and what spectrums.

 

[Kriaze]

Funnily enough I was just thinking about the differences in growth because of spectrum today, I'm not sure about your LED theory, especially over say HPS. I'm of the thought that HPS has proven health/yield results for a reason, although it wasn't just HPS that got me thinking about it, more of the full spectrum vs split spectrum LED concept. How did you find this thread? It's been asleep for over 4 years. Good catch