Wiring advice - 4 Drivers - 2 Potentiometers - 2 Drok DC meters

[Huktonponics]

Hey guys, Im going to be attempting to put my meters into my build today, and im hoping anyone has any wiring diagrams or some help to get me through this.

I have 2 drivers per array connected to 1 x 50k pot so i can dim them simultaniously. Now my Drok Meters have arrived

and im a little ( no, very ) confused as to how to wire these all up.

Can I connect 2 drivers to 1 meter ? As I have 2 drivers running 6 x cobs each per, array in series.

 

[Huktonponics]

Apologies to the admin for the links and photo.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

Not at all sure, but a AC ''Y'' connector before the drok might work (???)

Hope you figure it out and post the results

 

[Huktonponics]

No one ? I've seen these things on numerous builds, yet no one shows how it's done.

 

[Old Salt]

No one ? I've seen these things on numerous builds, yet no one shows how it's done.

This will work, assuming that you have the AC DROK. If you have the DC model things get trickier.

AC Wiring Drivers and DROK​

 

[TheMadDabber]

All the people I know running meters run them on the dc side I think? Here's some help coming @Derbybud @Pennywise

 

[Derbybud]

I'm running mine on the dc side so I can see what kind of wattage I'm putting out of the light so I can run it easier or harder at different times of my grow. I have 2 DRONK's that I use. One on my big light that I made and one on one of my HLG 260 watt kits. My other 2 HLG 260 kits I didn't bother putting them on them as I usually just set them at about 75% and use my meter and read my ppfd and adjust my heights accordingly. Hope this helps. I'm by no means a pro but I like what I'm seeing with what I'm doing.

 

[Old Salt]

As the voltage rating of the DC version is 6.5 - 100V, the meter must be adapted...

You must have the meter with the external shunt.

Both wires of one driver are connected to the meter. The voltage input must have a resistor added in series with the meter. This should be nine times the resistance of the meter itself. All voltage and power readings will then be 10% of the actual values.

The second driver has only one wire routed through the shunt. It must be of the same polarity as the one from the first.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

Wouldn't AC side be the same amps and volts all the time? But you see the total draw of the 2 drivers?

 

[TheMadDabber]

If you want to test the a.c. side wouldn't you opt for a kill a watt meter? Again I'm neither a light expert nor an electrical engineer (and certianly don't play one on TV) but for combined wattage I would use a kill a watt at the outlet. Then if you rig a drok to the dc side of one driver it's simple math from there. Or just order a second drok meter as they are relatively inexpensive when compared to a kill a watt meter, no?

 

[Old Salt]

Wouldn't AC side be the same amps and volts all the time? But you see the total draw of the 2 drivers?

The voltage will be whatever is on the incoming line. The current will vary with the load. The power (volts * amps) will read about 5% above what the load (COBs) are using. This is due to the 95% efficiency of the drivers. I'll be placing my meter on the AC side as it will be used for repeatability of the light levels. If I wanted, I could probably modify the meter's internals to compensate for the driver inefficiencies. I'd prefer that to running one on the DC side for two drivers.

If you wanted, you could probably run the on the DC side on only one of the drivers, and get a per COB power reading. I need one in my hands before I can give further details.

 

[Derbybud]

If you want to test the a.c. side wouldn't you opt for a kill a watt meter? Again I'm neither a light expert nor an electrical engineer (and certianly don't play one on TV) but for combined wattage I would use a kill a watt at the outlet. Then if you rig a drok to the dc side of one driver it's simple math from there. Or just order a second drok meter as they are relatively inexpensive when compared to a kill a watt meter, no?

Hell mad I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express and only thing I could come up with on the ac side was a kill o watt meter.

 

[Huktonponics]

Thanks for chiming in guys. Should I just go and get 2 of the AC versions with the following specs ?

D. Specifications:
1. Working voltage: AC 80-260V
2. Test voltage: AC 80-260V
3. Rated power: 20A/4500W
4. Operating frequency: 45-65Hz
5. Measurement accuracy: 1.0


Will this do the same thing as im intending to do ? Just so I can run both arrays at equal power draw ?

 

[Old Salt]

Thanks for chiming in guys. Should I just go and get 2 of the AC versions with the following specs ?

D. Specifications:
1. Working voltage: AC 80-260V
2. Test voltage: AC 80-260V
3. Rated power: 20A/4500W
4. Operating frequency: 45-65Hz
5. Measurement accuracy: 1.0


Will this do the same thing as im intending to do ? Just so I can run both arrays at equal power draw ?

Yes, it will get you very close to balancing the light output from the two lights.