Wonder Woman Grow Journal 2016


Well-Known Member
Hi everyone, it's been awhile since I've posted my last journals..

I'm back trying another go with Wonder Woman. After flirting with a few other strains I've come to realize she is my favorite..

First, the setup..

This grow is in a ventilated 192 cubic foot closet.

The strain is Feminized Wonder Woman from Nirvana.

I have a single 5" net pot sitting on the lid of a Rubbermaid 9 gallon tote.

Inside the tote I have 6.5 PH water sitting approx 826 PPM.
(my calculations are using a HM TDS meter calibrated at 0.5)

There are 5 large 2 inch x 4 inch aqua air stones driven by a EcoPlus air pump (793 GPH)

For lighting I am using an Apollo Horticulture 600 watt HPS (VEG), MH (FLOWER) under an air cooled hood. The hood is connected to 6 inch ducting in and out of the closet. The input fan (Ventech 6 inch 240CFM) is pulling fresh air from outside of the closet and pushing it through the hood and out the other side of the closet.

For ventilation and odor control I am using an iPower 16 inch x 6 inch carbon filter with charcoal along with another Ventech 6 inch (240CFM) fan. This fan is sucking air through the carbon filter and exhausting it outside of the room.

So far the room has been a steady 77 degrees around 22% RH.

I am using the AN Sensi Grow Part A and Part B with PH Perfect.

I think that about summarizes the set up..

So the reason I am posting is because I need help.. My girls are just under 6 weeks old and I have been fighting some type of deficiency for the last couple weeks.

The problem started on the lower leaves. First they would yellow and curl then dry up till they eventually wilted away. As the lower leaves have fallen the issue has spread to the upper leaves. I just performed a full water change about 4 days ago and have seen no improvement.






Hopefully you can help me turn this grow around.


Photo of the Month: Oct 2018
gosh,, karma sent to the plant,, a buncha

i so wish i could tell you exactly what to do,, alas, i can not,, no idea actually,, well,, maybe one

i am a soil grower, and failed miserably at my one pitiful effort at a soiless grow,, but i read a bit about em, just in case,,

i noticed your ph,, in the mid sixes,, i could oh so easily stand to be corrected, but maybe that is high??

mid to upper fives is what i think i have read,, and it might drift up a bit to six over time,,

again,, i could be so wrong,, just something to look into maybe for you,, cheers


Photo of the Month: Oct 2018
Hmmm, the roots, I am sure the problem is showing there, actually I am not sure, but i have seen pics of root masses, healthy ones, and they are pure white, could be the pic colour but yours are not white. What goes on below is reflected above, near always,,

Wishin I could help more,, karma sent


Well-Known Member
Yo you PM'd. I actually happened to be online for once at the same time how odd is that? That looks to me like nitrogen def. But the intervenial clorosis is a bit disturbing.

Ops just reread...yup you need to hang some wet towels in there. Get that humidity above 40%.

You look like you have poor uptake of multiple nutes so I am betting you are stunting form a poor temp / airflow / humidity combination. Anything below 40% will stunt to some extent and extend the growing process. Usually it isn't so bad on the plant...but 20% is low.

You know what I am gonna say... run the tea and it will be fixed. :morenutes:



Well-Known Member
Ok.. I'll hang towels now..

As for the tea, I'm in.. Am I still looking for the ingredients below or is there a more up to date version?

Tea Bag your DWC

recipe #1 (most aggressive)
- 1 ga water (if tap, let sit 24 hours or aerate)
- 1 tsp (5mL) Mycogrow soluble
- 1 tsp (5mL) ZHO powder
- 3/4 tbsp (11.25 mL) unsulfured molasses
- 1/8 cup (30 mL) Ancient Forest EWC

BTW, thanks for getting back so fast. I feel so lost some times.


Well-Known Member
Tea has many uses. In your case you really have a complete nutrient line you are using so you don't need to supplement much. When I go full tilt it is because I use this instead of nutrients. In hydro that gets hard as maintaining PPM requires so much with the uptake increase on clean roots.

You must have Worm castings and that also has the bulk of the nitrogen which fixes the problem you have. The base to a tea is worm castings and then everything else is just good science.

You make a tea by aerating the worm castings with an air pump and giving them sugars to eat and breed. Then you will leach out all the nitrogen from the shit and have a tone of beneficial bacteria.

All the rest of the stuff you add helps for all kinds of reasons. In general for everything else you add you are leaching or having the bacteria or enzymes break it all down for you.

I will post a link here below where I spailns it better.

You need:

* Good clean water without Chlorine or chlorimate
* Worm castings
* Some concentrated sugar. Many use blackstrap molasses...I use that in a pinch or sometimes when I want just to keep things barely alive. I prefer to use stronger stuff that is way more spendy like Aphrodite's Extraction or Sugaree.

Good to add...

* Some enzyme product (I use Hygrozyme)
* Bat Guano (needed in bloom for sure...this is high in Phos)
* Humis soil (has many nutrients and mirobes and more goodness)
Sometimes I even add some Humis extract that concentrated stuff but that is best for the soil really not the tea.
* Fulvic acid (helps with Uptake (HEY THIS MAY ACTUALLY ALONE REALLY HELP / fix your problems...AN has a bottle that may not be as good as what I use found at the link but you can get if you can't get the good stuff)
* Alfalfa (many micro nutrients...This helps to make it a fully complete food)
* Atlantic Sea Kelp (has many benefits and contains like 60 micro nutrients)
* And I use Silica to get the PH right. You need to keep the pH about 7. Using the silica to keep it there will end up giving you all the Potasium you need.

So there you have N-P-K plus tons of Micro nutrients plus tons of beneficial bacteria. I have grown great plants in soil on this only.

VI's - Subcool Based - 2 Worm - Multi-Strain - Mother Hunt - 2016

Also ...AN bottles all of this stuff individually. You can go buy their whole line of stuff to get this with fancy labels if you don't want to bubble water for a few days. ;)

Nirvana is Alfalfa and Kelp plus a surfactant which is unnecessary. They bottle microbes in like 3 different bottles. I gave you 3 different sources there.

They also bottle a Humis and Fulvic extract.

They bottle an enzyme...

If you want to go all hog wild you can add oatmeal and that should bring in some good fungi. I like to do that but in general I also add fungi at certain steps too.

I make it at home all at once in a bucket and apply the ratios I need for the stage of growth...for a lot cheaper.



Well-Known Member
And the ratios...Well don't be too bothered about it being so strict. It is not necessary to be all that precise. At the link I should have the recipe but don't worry at all about being a bit off. This isn't baking. A 1/4 cup per gallon for the dry stuff is decent. The liquid stuff follow the instructions on the bottle.

In hydro it is easier to come up with a base recipe and adjust the top off to be inline with the stage. So make a constant base tea and don't up the phos in bloom just add some bloom nutes to the top off.

Be prepared to be topping of the res fast. They suck up so much that there is no need to be bothered with this being exact. The tea will be all gone in a day or 2 and you will be adding more to the res so fast that the initial PPMs almost don't matter.

This will come out at a PPM of about 800.


Well-Known Member
You can hold it for a few days but it is not needed to be the only thing you do. The point is making a High bacterial content to fix what ales ya. In doing so you get a horde of goodness with a little effort.

The bacteria will last for up to 5 maybe even 6 days depending on the availability of food and the temps and what nots and stuffs.

So for the 5 days they are alive and in there you can just keep topping off like normal.

Then you could do it again with a fresh batch but that is unnecessary. Even Advanced Nutrients suggests to do this once every 2 weeks if you understand the nutrient program.

The point is putting in the bacteria into a desert waste land is a waste. They will all die. You want to put them into an abundant garden of Eden. You want them to breed and take over. The reason they die off in 4-5 days typically is because they ran out of food. So you wait a week and do it again.

I recommend a tea every 2 weeks in hydro just like AN does. Then run the base the rest of the time. You can add fancy stuff with the tea every 2 weeks much cheaper and have great benefits. You can also supplement with things in-between but that is all your call. I can run real cheap and get great results. I use a very generic brand single bottle through veg and supplement with this and they are as good or better than any program. In bloom I let in some fancy things but it depends on what they want and likely I can give it through the tea.

We been through 2 grows ... that were great doing things by the numbers... it is time to put on the big boy pants. :)


New Member
Here's is what I would do I would add some H202 to the res for a day then I would change it, give them the nutes, ph the water to 5.8 then add some benificials like Plus O, or something similar, be prepared it stinks but it will go away, then cut the light intensity for a few days and keep an eye on them for improvement when they improve turn the light back up. Keep your res Temps between 64 and 68 and get the humidity up. Ph everytime to keep the plants happy city water ph can vary and the nutes only have so much buffer built in if your water goes beyond the capacity of the built in buffers your ph varies and your plants suffer.



Well-Known Member
Yeah for sure temporarily you can sterilize it a bit...Throw in some enzymes too to clean up what comes off.

But in the end you gotta make your choice brutha.


New Member
Glad I found this thread the village idiot is saving me some money from now on thnx Guys I hadn't considered making my own bennies



Well-Known Member
I saved many grows on here with this tea where no amount of chemicals could solve the problems.

It is fun but a pain a bit. You can buy this all in bottles or make it yourself. Doing this you can easily maintain a res and dump just when you want to but easily over 4 weeks a res. Just keep topping off. Everything works out until something goes south. Then you flush and everything is fine and that thing that went south is gone. I usually only change at bloom as I whole sale change out the nutes after a mild transition period. Then for flush too. But you don't need to flush the res regularly if you keep it alive right.

There are cool things you can do to make it easy to brew this but you want to learn how to breed the bacteria by hand first. Gotta crawl before you can run. Learning to make a great tea is fun but it is a 60-70 hour process. Something you do over a weekend or so. The first 12 hours you don't see much happening. But you need to be on it. You can achieve a decent tea in 48 Hours to effect a fix to a problem in a pinch. 60 hours is typically a much better resultant solution.

You must stir it regularly through the process or bad bacteria take over and it is a fail. That said it is easy to bring them back and get it started again if it hasn't gone too far. It is fun to learn...then you can build some cool contraptions to make it mix for you but you really need to make it yourself by hand a handful of times first and see how you fail a few times too. This is like you have to learn to drive a stick before learning to drive an automatic. I still drive stick. I might make a nice system after I move. It is unnecessary.


New Member
I have been brewing teas for organic soil for a while now but never considered it for hydro I like to use an aquarium air pump and air stones in the bucket to keep the dissolved oxygen up and stirred



Well-Known Member
OK, supplies were picked up and what I couldn't get locally I've purchased online and they are en route..

Since I'm going to be using tap water I just put 3 gallons of water in a bucket with two air stones to dechlorinate for 24 hours.

This is what I've got..

Worm Castings
Nectar For The Gods Aphrodite's Extraction
GH Ancient Forest
AN Golden Goddess (Fulvic Acid)
Down To Earth Alfalfa Meal
Maxicrop Kelp Meal

For measurements, you said about 1/4 cup per gallon of the dry stuff and to just follow the labels for the liquids.. Since I'm making 2-3 gallons of tea I base the measurements on that not the size of the res, correct?

I'm just waiting on the Alfalfa and Molasses. As soon as it get's here it's game on :)


Well-Known Member
I am a bit more aggressive. You can't really over do it. It is hard to brew a small amount...about 1.5 gallons is the limit I have found. I try to brew 1.5 - 2 gallons at a time. I have made many modifications and I have learned to play it by ear. I can tell what it is supposed to look like now.

As far as application goes....I introduce 2-4 cups per basket through the basket, 8 if there is a real problem. That gets the microbes right in there. If you got a situation at hand then yes I would add additional to the res. I tend to do so anyway as I have it and don't want to toss it. Again you can't really over do it. The bacteria create a living eco system. The pant just loves it and eats it all up. The plant will just explode. I have put 5 gallons of tea into a 27 gallon res. That is like 3 cups per gallon. I didn't have a problem just wanted to try it.

The main reason not to over do it is you don't want them in there breeding too fast. If you dump in too much they eat it all up and bam you inadvertently wait a very long time to apply again. Better to put in a few cups and let them go to town.

So the molasses you can get at any grocery store near the baking stuff like flower...by syrups.

Anyway...yeah the directions on the bottle thing is for the brew. So you brew say 2 gallons of tea and the bottle says 15mL per gallon. you put in 30 mL . If it is the Enzyme the reason is that is the right concentration for it to work in there breaking down stuff. If it is the few liquid ferts it is because your res aint empty. This is just another top off. This will be a super strong top off already of 1.5 gallons at 800 PPM. 800 aint nuthing to squawk at. Depending on the infestation after it stops breeding and dies off you will need to top off with good stuff and all the learnings about how to read and adjust the pH based on PPMs we did...well here it all comes together.

You will take a measurement the next day and see what it tells you and it will say feed me. It may need help staying at pH of 7 for 2 days to let them breed. But n the end...it will ride at a pH of 7 while they are winning and breeding and that is great. When they are done...like magic...it will go to 6 and be all happy.

If you read my journal entry or the other place I posted the step by step there should be pics of how to do it. Just ask if you want me to dig em up again.

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