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Would this be considered heat stress?

LB07

Well-Known Member
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Can't read or give advice.
 

LB07

Well-Known Member
Because the advice you gave was horrible. Feeding a ph of 6.5 to coco is trash. Also flushing coco is horrible, it throws off the cations in the coco. You only flush when necessary. Every last bit of advice you gave was some janky shit you probably do in your trash of a grow.
 

LB07

Well-Known Member
It looks to me like you have a Phosphorous (P) or Potassium (K) deficiency. These types of deficiencies start in the older leaves and affect the margins between the veins of your leaves first. As it gets worse, brown rust spots appear and grow from the outside of the leaves inwards. Leaves and stems often turn red or purple and then progress to falling off the plants eventually. These types of deficiencies drastically slow down plant growth and can diminish harvests significantly.

There may be phosphorous and potassium in your >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>soil<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<but it’s unavailable to the plant roots due to salinity (too much fertilizer salts in your mix) or pH fluctuations. Before adding any fertilizer containing potassium, first flush your medium with plenty of plain pH balanced water. Then slowly introduce some mild NPK balanced fertilizer and be patient; new growth won’t show signs of healthy behavior for several days.
 

LB07

Well-Known Member
You don't flush In coco. You feed to runoff to prevent salt build up noob. Everyone knows that. If you're flushing in coco you're wrong.
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Haven't flushed once. I feed daily to 20% runoff. Such unhealthy habits.
 

MastahMan

New Member
Hey all, thx for the replies, sorry you guys disagree;

Regarding molasses, i never had heard of it, been growing for 13 years aprox, and the more you grow the more you know, allthough i do not think highly of using such product, i would after some thorough research.

I had to level my pH to 5.8~6 due to manganese deficiency in the past, and i'm not planniong on comming back.

LB07 thx for all the input, i would agree in a phosphorus deficiency, so in that case, should i bulk up the BioBloom? should i be worried of salts in my soil after feeding constantly biobizz products according to chart?.

Seems the way here for me to go would be flush generously with water, then retake nutes. or should i use a flushing agent to raice EC and then retake?

thx
 

Pyr0

Well-Known Member
Hey all, thx for the replies, sorry you guys disagree;

Regarding molasses, i never had heard of it, been growing for 13 years aprox, and the more you grow the more you know, allthough i do not think highly of using such product, i would after some thorough research.

I had to level my pH to 5.8~6 due to manganese deficiency in the past, and i'm not planniong on comming back.

LB07 thx for all the input, i would agree in a phosphorus deficiency, so in that case, should i bulk up the BioBloom? should i be worried of salts in my soil after feeding constantly biobizz products according to chart?.

Seems the way here for me to go would be flush generously with water, then retake nutes. or should i use a flushing agent to raice EC and then retake?

thx

Stop right there, you've just provided the best answer, no need to buy flushing agents, etc.
Most of the problems I had with my previous first grow were due to nutrient lockout and not some deficiency that I could solve by adding more stuff from the grow shop. I ended up following similar advice and flushed with plain tap water ph'd down to around 6.3/6.5 and did nothing, gave it a mild feed after 6 days and never looked back.

Try it :thumb:
 

NOOOBIENOT

Well-Known Member
hey , I would say yes as to the amount of plants you have in your grow room they can`t absorb all the light but I don't know the strength of the lights (watts etc ) and the exact distance from the bottom of the light to the very tip of the plant , I grow 1 light for every 6 plants , doesn't matter on room size as long as there is a good reflector on it and the distance to the plant is correct amount .I start at 24 inches and work from there and monitor every few hours and look for very minor changes in plant leaves
 

MastahMan

New Member
hey , I would say yes as to the amount of plants you have in your grow room they can`t absorb all the light but I don't know the strength of the lights (watts etc ) and the exact distance from the bottom of the light to the very tip of the plant , I grow 1 light for every 6 plants , doesn't matter on room size as long as there is a good reflector on it and the distance to the plant is correct amount .I start at 24 inches and work from there and monitor every few hours and look for very minor changes in plant leaves

heya, thx everyone for replying

sorry for delays, had to change places twice and been kinda crazy.

Noobienot ; using a 315 watt LEC, in a 80 x 80 x 1.80 m growspace, growing in light mix with biobizz products according to their charts (never been sure if i have to use a mix every time i water my plants or not), temps usually around 25°-27° C tops.

what else could i add, back growing again and flushed a couple days ago because i noticed some problems in my leafs, same problems i have had in every grow i ever had, and i have tried with every variable there is :(
 

NOOOBIENOT

Well-Known Member
soil ph is a 6.2 must only and coco is 5.8 , you can flush soil but do not ever flush coco, the stronger the light the more the plants transpire , the more heat (high temps) the more the plants transpire .when plants transpire they drink more ,sucking in water and nutes , keep your ppm`m low as young plants, and very slowly increase as they get bigger and get a good water supply to start with ,get a water that is as low as you can find in ppm`s -r.o. water is best -0 ppm, you want to have total control over what your plants are getting , any water over 100 ppm is garbage and only causes problems later in grow with salt and nute build up. plants will only take in what they need, the rest only causes nute build up of the other nutes the plant doesn't need causing lock out .eg if a plant needs calcium it will uptake calcium and leave the nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil ,over time this causes a build up of these 2 chemicals in the soil and this is how you get lock out .soil is like a sponge and holds nutes and salt unlike coco .feeding plants is just that , you feed when it shows signs of a problem .light, water, air are all a plant needs, you add nutes when the soil has become drained (deficient) of 1 or more of the chemicals because the plant has used up that chemical in the soil .under feed is better than over feed as you can always add more to the next watering but it is a bitch to get rid of excess nutes .I use 200 ppm on a r.o water as a starting point for plants that have 3 sets of leaves and add some calmag making 250 ppm total in the water .I said plants not seedlings .always know what the ppm`s are of the plain water you are using to start with and build it from there . let your pots dry out ,this allows air to be sucked down into the roots . roots need to get air , leaves should be standing straight out from the stems ,when they start to droop slightly it is time to water again .I said water, if the leaves are showing a form of discoloring then you add nutes to the water and always water till some of the water runs out the bottom of the pot as this will wash out excess salts ,most nutrients are salt based ,so this starts to build up over time (organic nutes excluded )I always inspect my plants very closely every day looking for a very early start of a problem don't wait till it is located all over the plant to fix .ps ,if the leaves are showing a problem the roots are already in bigger trouble. damaged leaves will Not repair them selves watch the new growth (leaves )this will tell you if you have fixed the problem or not .the trick is to learn what the plant is trying to tell you what is wrong ,so be very careful as to who you take advise from there is a lot of bull shit in these forums and a lot of very good advise , cultivator , pennywise , just to name a couple are great knowledgeable growers , these people know their shit and can be trusted , go with the pro`s not the weekend warriors sorry for the long windedness but these are the true facts , ask the pro`s !!
 

NOOOBIENOT

Well-Known Member
the difference between a grow and a successful grow (stress free) are 2 things, knowledge (or good advice) and the proper equipment , the 3 pieces of equipment I would never go with out are a good ph meter and a good ppm meter and a laser temp probe .the ppm and ph meter are self explaining but I use the laser light temp probe to tell me exactly what the temps truly are at the top of the plants so I know if I need to move my lights up or down to find that sweet spot ( not to much and not enough light ).$20 bucks at Canadian tire , mechanics use these to work on car engines but they work great for plants .don't let the true temps of the top leaves of your plant get over 76 degree`s, lots of new clean air is very important also as it brings in co2 and this is what plants need for photosynthesis.to me organic nutes are best for soil grows as it is a lot harder to over feed plants in soil with them and synthetic nutes are for dwc , hydro etc .what we are trying to do is copy MOTHER NATURE IN A INDOOR ENVIORMENT.
 

MastahMan

New Member
heya, atomic post, read it all and learned quite a few, been growing for almost 14 years here in Chile (and one in canada lol), so i got my basis, but i always end up in damaged leaves when trying indoor. always ween placing nutes i drop the same amount of water afterwards to see water coming out of the plant.

A big deal where i am living now is we use well water, which is freaking delicious, but not sure how it will work on plants.

So according to what i read, i should not always use biobizz products.

i got a pH meter, a lux meter and a microscope, that would be my basic setup, got a temp reader on top of my leaves, guess i will lay it low on nutes. will post a couple pics when the girls wake up :)

cheers, bless and thx :D
 

NOOOBIENOT

Well-Known Member
get a ppm meter if you have problems outdoors it's either ph or ppm`s , because you can't change the sunlight they get .well water is probably high in calcium and nitrogen and Sulphur , it is most likely you have a ppm problem try just well water only ph`d to 6.2 and water only when the pots are dry for the top 2-3 cm and if they are getting rained upon being outside that will add ppm`s to the pot also .rain water is the best you can give your plants you just need to control how much they get it doesn't even need to be ph`d then if you use organic nutes but don't do both synthetic nutes and natural well water or rain -it's one or the other they do not mix well together .
 
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