Yet another LED light question!

[HayStack]

Sorry ya, I know, I forgot to mention it consumes 390w. It seems I'm ok, I just wanted someone with some better experience to be sure. Here are the specs:

Specifications:
- Dimension: 20.66x8.46x2.36 inches
- Replaces a 1400 watt HPS/MH
- Item Weight: 10.36 pounds
- Full spectrum for all stages of plant growth
- Core Coverage Area: 7.8ft x 7.5ft at 24" Height
- LEDs Angle: 120°
- 200pcs Dual-Chip 10W Bridgelux/Epileds LEDs
- Avg. Power Draw: 390W
- Input Voltage: AC85-265V
- Working Temp: -68~104℉
- Frequency: 50-60Hz

You could add an identical second light and have a better overall light coverage which would produce a better grow. When I first started using LED's earlier this year I only had 950 LED watts and thought adding more might be too much. But the end of the grow I ended up using two 1000 watt lights, one 650 watt light, a 300 watt light and a 350 watt CFL. I ended up with a really nice harvest.

 

[Rosie44]

Sneaky bastards. Should be good enough for now. I'll probably add someday if I feel like I can get more. In Canada we'll be allowed to grow 4 plants starting Wednesday. So much info to take in, trying to be prepared. Thanks for the help.

Hello Gainguy. For my very first grow I was using one 600W LED along side a 400W Hps in a. 4x4 grow tent. As it can get cold in Canada, the LED light was bright enough for my plants, but it was the HPS that kept them warm (basement setup)
This setup gave me over a pound of White Widow, using just soil along with the basic vegetable, & bloom nutrients, plus a bloom booster near the end.

 

[Elvin]

BTW, I was being facetious about the loppers.

Of course you were; nor would I ever snip the plugs off, strip the wires then twist them together using wire nuts and a wrap of Scotch 33 to hold the nuts in place ;-)!

 

[Ennui]

Of course you were; nor would I ever snip the plugs off, strip the wires then twist them together using wire nuts and a wrap of Scotch 33 to hold the nuts in place ;-)!

You and I wouldn't, but there are others who might think it a good idea. I know I thought some really stupid human tricks I've accomplished in my life sounded like a good idea at the time. Results varied, never came away unscathed.

 

[Elvin]

Since this all hypothetical, what I would do first is look at the cord to see how heavy it is before proceeding (read the gauge size printed along the length IF it even is there)
The reason I refrain from daisy chaining (or ghetto-rigging like cutting ends off) is that I don't trust Chinese made line cords being heavy enough to safely do it.
I rather use a power strip with a built-in surge protector (to power my 3 lights) hooked to my 15amp rated timer that then is connected to a 12 gauge multi-tap extension cord which then is connected to a power source that is within 10 feet of the breaker box. (sorry about the run-on sentence)
Personally, I find it well worth it to spend a few extra dollars buying surge protectors and heavy gauge extension cords then buying cheap stuff.
If I was using a room instead of a tent I'd certainly would run electrical dedicated to each device and a separate dedicated breaker box for the room, all rated for wet conditions.

 

[LEDXpert]

Best way to understand everything is to look at par measurements. It us imperfect as it does not account for spectrum but will help you understand your room requirements.

There are charts you can find to balance co2 with your par values to optimize growth so you dont under or oversaturatr co2.

There is a lot of bad spec-manship of LED out there where they say total potential wattage of LED chips but not actual wall wattage. Then if you know wall watts it doesnt tell yoi efficiency. HPS and CMH bulbs are relatively all the same efficiency. LED can be all over the place. Look for umol/w or umol/j/s (same thing, a watt is a joule per second).

Then get a local thermometer to measure temperature at leaves to know if its too intense.

I could make reccomendations on actual fixtures in private.

 

[LEDXpert]

Hello Gainguy. For my very first grow I was using one 600W LED along side a 400W Hps in a. 4x4 grow tent. As it can get cold in Canada, the LED light was bright enough for my plants, but it was the HPS that kept them warm (basement setup)
This setup gave me over a pound of White Widow, using just soil along with the basic vegetable, & bloom nutrients, plus a bloom booster near the end.

Cheapest way to heat is through a natural gas heater in your home but if you don't have that or for some reason or can't vent it down there and have to rely on an electricity source for heat (the HPS) you might as well get some light for the heat. So buy more LED or buy cheap vanity light bulb holders and hang them like strips and buy cheap A19 LEDs? The A19's arent efficient and is not a viable layout for a full grow but if you need to add watts cheaply might as well get some light.

The LED heat signature is more diffused to begin with compared to HID sources and the goal of the fixture designer is to dissipate it away from where the light shines. Two opposites of HID. So if your grow area is vented poorly and you needed that radiating infrared heat from the HPS then you would have to just give up and stick with HPS or figure out how to contain the heat you create.