Light proof passive air intakes on grow tent?

kazz

Well-Known Member
Hi all. I just started my first grow over the weekend when it occurred to me that the three rectangular passive air intakes at the bottom of my grow tent will most likely admit quite a bit of light when I get to the flowering stage.


Amazon: Lighthouse Hydro Hydroponics Grow Tent, 32 by 32 by 60-Inch

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I've searched the forum over the past couple of days and even did a google search. I can't find anything about "light proofing" these intakes.

Is this something that needs to be done? If so, any suggestions about how to achieve it?

Thanks!
 
Wost case you could make a cardboard light baffled air intake box. Box,duck tape,scissors,needed.
 
Wost case you could make a cardboard light baffled air intake box. Box,duck tape,scissors,needed.


I'd considered that. I actually ran some 4" dryer duct from the electrical access holes toward the bottom of the tent with a sharp curve for light and netting for insects. But, if i put my fan over around 30%, it still sucks the sides. So I'm going to need to keep at least one of the pre-made vent holes open. Thought I would check and see if someone had already had a solution before I overheated my brain trying to design something :)
 
Have you tried moving the fan down the line farther. The longer you make the fan intake line the more you will slow down the air pull
 
Take a look at my link 144x3 Top LED Grow Light I Had to move fan until it stopped pulling tent in. you will see how long my fan line is. I do have a controller on it as well but I wanted to be able to run it at 100% then turn down.
 
Take a look at my link 144x3 Top LED Grow Light I Had to move fan until it stopped pulling tent in. you will see how long my fan line is. I do have a controller on it as well but I wanted to be able to run it at 100% then turn down.


When I click on that link it takes me out to the main forum page (the one that the News, Medical Marijuana, Industrial Hemp, etc)

But to be honest, I don't think I could move the fan any further away without moving the entire tent. I'm not home right now, or I would take a picture--but inside the tent is a carbon filter connected to a vented hood by duct. From the other side of the hood, duct exits the tent and connects to a cent. fan. The fan then vents to a chimney.
 
It wont let me post it lol Its down on the bottom of my post. When you get around to it take pic I will help ix the problem with you.
 
sorry its on page 4 and says Making air exhaust quit and has a youtube video

Ah! after some detective work, I found the video. You have a NICE setup!

Yeah, I do not have nearly enough room to stretch my intake out that far. If I keep one of the passive intakes open along with my rigged intakes, I believe I will be fine. I just need to figure out how to control the light from it.

Thanks for your replies!
 
Maybe you guys can answer something for me, is there a reason most growers don't like it when the tent sucks in? Lately, I've set up my grow box to suck in slightly when the exhaust fan is running and I've noticed an improved temperature reduction with this setup. I have a temperature controlled exhaust fan, with the thermostat right at soil level, and if I open up a lower side vent, once the exhaust fan turns on it rarely turns off, it seems that the air just rushes from the intake vent to the exhaust fan without really cooling the box at all and I have 2 clip fans circulating the air inside as well. But if I set it up to create a little negative pressure in the grow box, air is sucked in from all around the box through all of those tiny gaps/holes, with this setup I get many exhaust fan cycles during lights on rather than only 1 or 2 with a lower vent open. On top of all that, I'm pretty sure that the CFM rate is knocked down a lot with the negative pressure, but even so it cools the box much quicker that opening a vent.
 
I'm afraid your question/observation is far beyond my expertise. Hopefully someone will post an answer for you.
 
5 Minutes per Air Change and no more than 1-2 MpAC to keep stress down on the plants. High airflow rates cause excessive dehydration which is hard on the plants. One air exchange per minute is excessive and causes undue stress on the plants. Now you can increase the duct size or connect the duct to a large cardboard box to drop the air speed down while maintaining the air flow rate. So bottom line Negative is not bad just be careful on drawing to much out. Its a preference on tent sucking in I guess. There ways to fix that just play with the system. Sorry I am well medicated and just typing away lol
 
CO Finest, that's another reason I prefer a more sealed up grow box, with multiple exhaust cycles thoughout lights on, the humidity can build back up between cycles. When the exhaust fan runs continously, there is no chance to get the humidity levels up, the moisture is just sucked right out of the box.
 
Hey kazz I dealt with this exact same issue in my Jedi Death Star grow. I first tried a light baffling box which I took an entire Saturday constructing only to ditch it. JJ Bones has the best idea. Close up the rectangular meshed vents. Use 6" ducting and wrap it around the bottom of the tent. Use a Bug filter on the outside of the tent duct opening. Only use an exhaust fan at the top of the tent drawing hot air out and have the cool passive air intake at the bottom. This made my life way easier and I hope it helps you.
 
With my Hydro and being in SoCal I have the opposite problem with humidity. If my fan isn't going strong my humidity can go up to 90%.
With the fan and AC cooled air being fed in I can keep temps below 80 and humidity in 50% range.

I have two of my three vents shaded so direct light can't get there. The vent that gets the most AC I have taped wide open to get as much cool air into the tent as possible. It has not effected my grow that I can notice. It seems that a little light seeping into the tent is less than the moon on an outside grow, and should not be a problem. Have other people reported problems?
 
Here's another suggestion to use during flowering for getting 12 hours of total dark:

Put your light schedule to match closely to the natural sun cycle. Have your lights come on when the sun rises and go out when the sun sets. This way you can more easily get 12 hours of total darkness.

During veg cycle complete darkness is not super critical. Remember in nature there is the moon which is different in brightness every night. So during the "night" cycle the plants can be exposed to varying amounts of low intensity light. By low intensity I mean just enough to see in the dark. So any light leaking through your vents if minimal should be no problem during the veg cycle.
 
Hey kazz I dealt with this exact same issue in my Jedi Death Star grow. I first tried a light baffling box which I took an entire Saturday constructing only to ditch it. JJ Bones has the best idea. Close up the rectangular meshed vents. Use 6" ducting and wrap it around the bottom of the tent. Use a Bug filter on the outside of the tent duct opening. Only use an exhaust fan at the top of the tent drawing hot air out and have the cool passive air intake at the bottom. This made my life way easier and I hope it helps you.

That seems like the best plan I've found. Thanks for the reply!
 
Hey kazz I dealt with this exact same issue in my Jedi Death Star grow. I first tried a light baffling box which I took an entire Saturday constructing only to ditch it. JJ Bones has the best idea. Close up the rectangular meshed vents. Use 6" ducting and wrap it around the bottom of the tent. Use a Bug filter on the outside of the tent duct opening. Only use an exhaust fan at the top of the tent drawing hot air out and have the cool passive air intake at the bottom. This made my life way easier and I hope it helps you.

I know this is old, but it's GOLD. Thank you for this little gem my friend!:thanks:
 
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