My First Attempt With Autos

goofyfoot

Well-Known Member
Hello All in 420 land,
This is my first time having a go with Auto-flower strains and looking forward to it. I was able to get some good insight along with taking the commonly shared info. From multipule sources and sift it, looking in the crumbs. To fill in the gaps and questions I have on how to work WITH them. Mother Nature first and then the plant itself are the ones in charge. You are the one who needs to try and get your point across to them.
I have grown out doors since I was a kid and that helped me accumulate knowledge. Plus the insight to understand what the plant is doing thru its stages or cycles if left to itself. Then seeing what happens when my dumb ass got a bright idea. Then what it took for the plant to recover from it or if there was something beneficial of my actions. This is what I did when I started an indoor grow 5 years back for the first time. I should add that all the indoor grows I have tried, have some sunshine added to the mix. None have been totally artificial supplied light sources. They all have been in soil which I prefer and allows me to add some variables into the grow. As far as organic content and hand mixing in agents to lighten and drain.
So with NO HANDS ON experience with Auto's I wrote down what I thought I should do, my gut feelings on how to start. The 5 basic elements, so as I read up on them and found out.....dam I was close!! I see or looked at them this way. They have 8 weeks to do what others strains do in 8 months, give or take. One week is equivalent to one month across the board. But she is leading the dance. With that noted recovery from over applying something or neglect will greatly affect or have a huge bearing on the out come. Good or bad.
I LOVE THIS as I am impatient, not clumsy or wreakless. I have trashed more plants along the way and got it out of my system. Just hated to stand there and wait a week to 10 days to note the progress. Waiting 6 months to see if what I did to the soil had a better affect on bud development then the last grow. This is great as I am more into growing then getting stoned or showing off pictures. BUT big glistening diamonds crystal buds are the prize!! It is more of a challenge but enables you or more like what you can learn. In 1.5 years instead of 4 or 5 whole seasons.
With that said I have CFL's for my light source. They are bought and paid for and the LED options will be explored down the road. If I had disposable income I would use a combo bulb MH/HPS hood at 600/W. With 3 to 4 CFLs at 100/W to "tuck in" around the sides. As is, I have a 125/W 6K over head jumbo bulb and 3 105/W smaller size 5K CFL bulbs. The 5K spectrum ones are what my friend uses for his light canopies, the black umbrella lights he uses for mobile photo shoots. He said they are as close to natural sunlight (cool blue) for his photos. They do glow bright white and for the veg stage, 5K works. At 100+W's each they offer more then the basic household CFLs if you see were I am coming from. I have a 250/W 2.7K bulb to switch to in the over head when flowering starts.
My soil is hand mixed and will share whats in it down the road. I have a 36"X36" reflected grow box I am building. Nuit's will be explained and the seeds I will use are Feminized Auto's, and one plant at a time.

1. LSD-25 Auto

Gender: Feminized

Genes: Mostly Indica

Genetics: LSD x Ruderalis

Flowering Time: 8-9 Weeks

Yield: 450-500 gr/m2

Plant Height: 70-120cm

THC Level: 19%

CBD: 1.1%

SITES DESCRIPTION:
LSD-25 is a very unpretentious and easy growing strain that we can safely recommend even for your first growing, she'll forgive your mistakes and clumsy. Incredibly strong genetically, she will firmness to withstand and ph swings and the interruption of light and too high/low temperatures and unstable feeding. The only thing about we would like to warn you: this strain is a real water-gulp, do not forget watering it a lot and in time. It demonstrates the great characteristics of growth in all methods of cultivation: Coco, Hydro, Aero. Plants reach 70-100cm, chunky, feel free to bend it and move compact branches to the side. This is a real champion, fast start and fast finish, from the appearance of the first pair of leaves until the stage of ready to harvest is just 8 weeks. Like all strains in our catalog, LSD-25 is good for cultivation in outdoor, greenhouses and indoor. She steadfastly goes through adverse soil and high humidity, in which any hybrid would be subject to a mildew.
We should also mention the colors and shades that bushes will demonstrate: in the process of recruitment of bud's mass inflorescence acquire a deep purple shade with black splotches. In pre-harvest days buds look like black holes, they are so dense. This strain is not only the most bright and beautiful in our catalog, but also occupies top positions in the individual rating of many growers in the world. This aesthetically delightful sight, when in the last days of flowering purple buds glisten with white crystals and black resin, in which THC rolls over to 21-23%.
It has an odor of paint and varnish products, therefore, we strongly recommend the using of carbon filters. It exudes on the flowering pleasant sour-earthy aroma, which testifies about the potential quality and strength of the product for any experienced smoker. Although the effect could be called a classic powerful body stone, LSD-25, of course, has a psychedelic effect too, that shows up in the activation of creative activity, you are overflowing with ideas and inspiration. If you are an very active smoker, you will note some visual effects. Don't forget about a little curing, which will open some new faces in this strain. The effect of smoking is so long lasting and powerful that you will not soon over smoking to it, even with your very high tolerance to THC (which is rare for auto flowering strains).

LSD-25 is an ideal hybrid for making hashish. It is actively used as a remedy for insomnia, gastrointestinal disorders. Without any doubt, one the favorite strain of all our team and we are sure it will become for you the same.

2. Green Crack

Gender: Feminized

Genes: Mostly sativa

Genetics: Green Crack x Ruderalis

Flowering: 8 weeks

Harvest: 500 - 650 gr/m2; 70-300 g/plant

Height: 60-90 cm

THC: 20%

CBD: 0,7%

Auto flowering: Yes

SITES DESCRIPTION:
Green Crack is like an energy drink flavored Mango. A variety of marijuana that will offer you an adrenaline energy of pure cannabis.
This strain has a composition of 75% sativa mainly Afghani phenotype. The rest of his lineage comes from two genetic lines of sativa type descendants of Skunk # 1
It is a strong, vigorous, very productive and, like all our products, very easy to grow hybrid. Auto flowering and feminized, suitable for indoor and outdoor.
In conclusion; a safe bet.
Those who have tried it say that it is simply spectacular, given its combination of the 3 most important factors for a variety of marijuana:
Good performance, an easy growth, and energy buzz and exquisite fruity flavor.
We are very proud of this variety that now to be introduced in the European market, which already enjoys a strong following in the US market, especially in California.
It grows to medium-large size, with a minimum height of 1.20cm. It has leaves with a typical sativa sweet green. You will be surprised of its great inter-nodal distance. Be careful with their growth because this plant aims high. Beware of neighbors!
It flowers in just 55 days and has a very good production, almost 600g per plant.
Its buds are denser than the average of the sativas. In flowering season is literally covered with resin and are completely white.
The flavors that follows are ideal for lovers of fruits. Acids, citrus and earthy with an exotic touch, and aftertaste handle.
Green Crack, gives you lots of energy. Has a 18% THC and low CBD, so it is ideal for patients who are treating fatigue, stress and depression medication. Recommended for use during the day.
With its powerful fruity spicy, and sweet scent of mango, this variety is perfect for medicinal use throughout the day. Help problems of patients with chronic fatigue and high levels of stress and depression cases. It is also indicated for severe cases of Crohn's disease since it reduces nausea and regulates appetite.
Maybe it's for their aromas and terpenes that give off a feeling of well being and enhance the vigor and energy to take on more illusion.
Few strains can match the energy and concentration that produces this sativa. A cerebral level is an elixir for neurons; invigorating effect, and an adrenaline that keeps you going all day.

I will add pic's and explanations as to why I apply or do something as I go along. And to add my last residence had 4 huge rain barrels that the gutters drained into. I had fresh rain water 8 months out of the year. I am not afforded that in this new local. But right down the street is a new strip mall that has a dispenser outside one store. It is .35cents for a gallon or $1.50 for 5 gallons of R/O'ed water. They say be weary of the age of the machines and check if they post maintenance records on the outside housing. This machine is brand new so it should be doing what it is suppost to. Our town tap water has a 7 to 7.5 ph from the spicket and is very laden in calcium. So if need be storing tap water in direct sunlight un-capped for 24 hours destroys the chlorine. Then a teaspoon +/- Epsom salt should aleave the need for Cal/Mag supplement with the stripped down R/O'ed water.

Just waiting on a few items from Amie'Z online, and Old Herbie. Getting lumber and charging the cordless driver. This is the laundry/ utility room I will commandeer and the box will be in the back corner. The water heater is electric and does not put off much heat.
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The apartment has a wall A/C ~ Heater unit that I dont use for heating. So I use two small oil filled electric radiators in the two most used rooms. Instead of heating the whole apartment with this inefficient beast. With the LSD being mostly indica, not heating this area except for what ever the CFLs generate. Last year through January to March a kitchen thermometer registered 55 to 65 degrees~day time. Then from 8:00 Pm till dawn would be 5* degrees warmer then the actual outdoor temp. Also the room has a ceiling drop staircase for the attic storage. I can use that to vent heat or lower the temp as I need. VERY COOL and it sounds like ideal indica temps as the lights should put it at 68 to 70 degrees.

For the lights themselves , the plant will determine the actual but my gut said: I should use 24 on for the first 2/3 weeks. Then 20/4 till pre-flower *plus*. Going to 18/6 for the last (?) 20 to 30 days as trich's dictate.
Again this is new ground for me and this is what my instincts say to do........

Well this is my intro and I welcome any and all comments or advice. I love to stare and admirer them and if I was told I could never indulge in them anymore I would still be digging holes. One of Gods many wonders and killer buds are cool!!! More to come and for now .....Peace.....

:420: :peacetwo:
 
Actually go lighter...one teaspoon for a gallon of water and you can give it 2 oz's 2X times a day. It is not a salt as say table salt. But dissolves easily in water and highly absorptive to the plant. If you water the plant with half of what you normally do, so to dampen it. Then add the 2oz's and again in the evening it will still be damp. Doing this gives it a better opportunity to get what it needs quickly. Then when you see recovery give it the other half of the water to flush out un-used salts. This way you dont have to wait till it is almost dry to flush it. Not over watering and adding another posable issue to the mix. What is left over place out of light in a capped container under a sink. Then you have it and just stir 2~3 oz's into every other straight watering, as a preventative!!
...Peace.....

Sulfate salts have diverse applications. Magnesium sulfate, or Epsom salt, is used for therapeutic baths; gypsum--the mineral form of hydrated calcium sulfate--produces plaster; and sulfate ions are used in some cationic drugs, according to New World Encyclopedia. Other sulfates include glucosamine sulfate, used for treating arthritis; hydrazine sulfate, commonly used in treating cancer patients; and copper sulfate, a fungicide that controls bacterial and fungal diseases of crops.

Read more : What Is Sulfate? | eHow

:420: :thumb: :welcome:
 
Thanks for the encouragement, while your here. Do you or now anyone what would now the duration to leave a "pony tail" in 1 day / 2?? I understand what it is doing to the plant and purpose. I just dont want to tie and re-tie as I dont know how ruff I can get with them. My other regular feminized grows by the 3rd node you do some MMA shit to them and they would rebound!! I all most dropped one but when I caught it. I had snapped one of the main stems were I pinched it off. 2 drops of diluted peroxide and a piece of scotch tape and it was the biggest bud producer of the two stems!! Thanks and ...Peace.....


:420: :thumb:
 
Thanks for the encouragement, while your here. Do you or now anyone what would now the duration to leave a "pony tail" in 1 day / 2?? I understand what it is doing to the plant and purpose. I just dont want to tie and re-tie as I dont know how ruff I can get with them. My other regular feminized grows by the 3rd node you do some MMA shit to them and they would rebound!! I all most dropped one but when I caught it. I had snapped one of the main stems were I pinched it off. 2 drops of diluted peroxide and a piece of scotch tape and it was the biggest bud producer of the two stems!! Thanks and ...Peace.....


:420: :thumb:

IIRC Atrain advises 6 hour pony tailing session.

Haven't tried it myself but I think you wait until the plant looks like it needs it (centre getting much higher than side branches) then do daily sessions until you don't think it needs it any more.

Next time I grow one in soil I want to try it but for now LST suits my less regimented routines and I need a net to keep my hydro plants upright anyway ;)
 
Your CFLs are a true 100 watts each? Good work. I did my first grow entirely with 23 and 40 watt CFLs and had a decent harvest off of two monster bushes. Of course, I hung them to surround the plants. It was exciting. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I used ponytailing with my Carnival, with great success. This was her first session, and the picture illustrates what you're looking to do.

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Atrain's comments on the first day of training.

Look great sue....the Afghan will benifit a little from this but she looks rather open to begin with BUT that carnival is a prime candidate for "ponytailing" she's nice and bushy so most of her undergrowth will be covered most of the time. I Ponytail the top up for 6 hrs at a time as you stated and usually every other day. Just a gentle pipe cleaner as you have demonstrated does the trick. I do this at least 3 or 4 time and it benifit the under growth greatly. Especially when a 600w cfl can be placed right in there close. You can do it more but I usually can tuck the larger fan leaves under the new growth after 4 times so it's no longer needed.....

Ponytailing and fan tucking is the name of the game with young autos. NO STRESS

And here she is after the last ponytail session, just over a week later.

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Good luck with the grow. You appear to have thought it through and that preparation should serve you well.
 
I meant to mention that Atrain's played extensively with light schedules and autos and has determined that the most effective is 20/4. I'm not certain if he runs them 24/0 at any point in the lifespan. Some very significant things occur in those dark hours.
 
Thanks for the photos SUE as a picture is surly worth a thousand words in this case. I never needed to pony tail my non-autos feminized and just started LST one week after pinching the tops. I realize you could pinch these also but you lose VALUABLE days while it lays up. As the non-auto fem's would be dormant for a week. You could make that up with them by extending the light cycle to continue vegging. This option is void with autos as they have their own light timer. As I get better acquainted with them it may be worth doing a head to head with two sisters and actually pinch one off. So to see what happens as they share the equal amounts of everything else.

I do plan on the 24 on to start/ first 10 to 14 days. Then 20/4 from pre-flower start of pistils and through flowering. Adding 18/6 for finial 14~ or so days. Then again a head to head with sister seeds on the on/off per day schedule. Not that I dont take advice or what works for someone else. I have this argue to take things apart, see whats happening inside...WHILE IT IS SPINNING and not lose a finger!! Then re-assemble it. It started as a kid and continues today. I agree and know that darkness is needed. Weather sun or bulb, light is it energy source. That it stores like a battery and in lights off it is still working, but in a different way. I work in restaurants and it is like doing prep work (lights off) you are assembling, optimizing each ingredient and organizing these items. That you need to utilize to run and control that next shift ~ lights on, If that makes sense.

I also shot a PM to Atrain and he was nice enough to include that he applies. 6 to 8 hours of tying every day and continues it as the plant dictates. Tucking of the fan leaves a must also.

Thanks All and cant wait to get rolling and like I said in my starting thread. The fact that they move so fast is great for applied theories as you will know in days and not 3 to 6 weeks. ...Peace.....

:420: :Namaste:
 
I meant to mention that Atrain's played extensively with light schedules and autos and has determined that the most effective is 20/4. I'm not certain if he runs them 24/0 at any point in the lifespan. Some very significant things occur in those dark hours.

As an organic grower I doubt you would have had reason to look but recently when checking out the Dutch Pro line of nutes for auto flowers I noticed it says you can run them 24hrs.

No idea what real difference there is between auto nutes and photo nutes or if it's just a marketing thing.....I hope to try them one day but for now I'm running 20/4 as Atrain does and have noticed that at the end of a long day the plants can look a bit tired with droopy leaves then after a few hours darkness they perk up and look ready for a new day. I think there's something in the dark period too.
 
I feel the 24 on for the first 10 - 16 days or till it shows its third node is about the only thing they MIGHT have in common with full photos. Just for the simple fact that the leaves collect the light. So with very little foliage starting out. All the possible light and time exposed will only help it to create more...?? Hell but what do I know, dam newbie's... I dont even have a bean yet!! ...Peace.....

PS. And all I have to base anything on is what I have done.

:420: :thanks:
 
Howdy All,
Just crawled around attic storage for goodies and got a few things dropped off today. Checked all bulbs and glowing well. Got soil and additives to be mixed up, just need some more sphagnum. Had half a bag and must have lost in in the move here. Going for wood tomorrow so no biggy. Checking camera and added a few pic's.

The soil is plain Jane top soil, add a shit ton of perlite, crushed coquina rock instead of sand. I was turned onto charcoal chips that I add equally with the perlite. They are found in orchid supply spots. There are used as a medium for them.
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The photo shows the size comparison between the two. I have no scientific proof but feel it helps out in many ways. They will float and allows air pockets to build preventing soil compression. It helps to help rejuvenate new growth after a forest fire. I dont feel it will prevent root rot but its oder controlling and refreshing properties will help. Maintain and establish a better environment for the entire root system.

In the pic's you will see the silver water heater supply line.... it will be a flexible light bar by feeding wire though it. The reconnecting it back in the socket, you dont need to be an electrician to do it. I can mount it to the wood side or wrap a bungee around the pot. Then secure it under cord. They come 18,24,32 inches and the copper ones are cheaper. My friend is a plumber so I get cost!! But have to give samples!! But 8 to 12 bucks each and then a couple of old lamps for parts from a garage sale. You are golden...

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Hummmm...is there a limit on the amount of photos you can include?? Clicking on the camera icon on the tool bar is doing nothing now?? Will try this........
 
I guest there is a limit anyhow as of now I have three bulbs for veg and flower:

Veg: large 125w 6.4K 2x 105w 5.5K 335 total watts the 5.5's are for photography and dont want to get yelled at. But can provide who's they are and were to find in a PM

Flower large 250w 2.7K 2x 60w 3.2K 370 total watts

They were great for full photos being the duration of months not weeks and I supplemented them with 4 to 6 hours of sunlight. If I added two more of each smaller bulb to the mix that now hits:

veg- 545w and flower- 490w Which I know will help them and it is only 5 bulbs not a mess or tangle of 12 or more.
My feet are not that small just big bulbs!!
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I have used Foxes stuff for years and comfortable with it and will leave it at that, will have to get used to the needs of the Auto's though. Small essentials, timer, humidity gauge but they did not send ph thingy. If you see the Mylar survival blankets: each on measures 52"x84" almost 7 foot by 4 foot. They come in a 10 pack @ .75 cents each. So 28sq. feet each x10 = 280 square feet for $7.50 look for that many square feet in a roll and see what it costs!!
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The container is from any Mart or LOT store. It is 15"x12"x11 and holds 5.75 gallons of soil you need to drill so holes. I like the fact that my box is the same shape and being clear you can watch the root formation// development. They bottom out really quick and my non auto's did not create a "ball" but more of a mat. I feel creates more root surface area. More like a plane for all the watering to pass THROUGH, instead of some of it going around it. just my opinion and if you ever had an ant farm...it is just as cool to see what the roots are doing as well.
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Last is the box

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So I still need wood, ph tester, moss, 2 more each bulbs....and the beans!! Have a great one and more to come soon, thanks for stopping by...Peace.....

:420: :peacetwo:
 
Hello to All 420 peoples and Happy New Year!!

Been busier then shit at work but things finally calming down. Just today got the beans from good ol' Herbie.....you got to love that guy!! He said with the holiday push to expect a delay and could be the 10th to 19th for delivery dates. It took only 7 days and happy they are here.


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Also got the PH tester and two more bulbs for veg. I got the two flex extensions for them working and just need to install. So that gives me 4 105W@5.5k's that I can wiggle in close as I train them. Then the overhead 125W@6.4K that I will drop on her head. So I will have 545W total and ordered two more for flower.

That combo will be 2 85W@2.7K // 2 60W@3.2K on the flex extensions and the overhead 275W@ 2.7K giving flower a total of 565W. Not bad to push almost 600W on CFL's, only 5 bulbs total also.


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My battery charger took a shit but my buddy has on I will borrow this weekend to wrap up building grow box itself. 36 inch square was large and I initially was going to do two plants. But doing only one at a time it can be smaller, changing it to 32 square inches. There is a ulterior motive behind this: measure twice cut once!!! It would fit BUT I did not allow for the drop ceiling stair case being down. YEP Making it 4 inches smaller I will be able to use the stair case!! I need to get a few more cardboard boxes from work to build the panels to attach Mylar to. I did it as modules so I can brake it down quick and it will fit under a bed. The property managers do a walk thru inspection of what comes inclusive with the unit and to make sure there are no wholes in the walls. This happens every November before turkey day. So I can commando stealth it and get at least two grows in, with any luck 3. But will see!!

I have soil mixed and filled plant container, I also did a trick I would do for my non-auto feminized plants. I layed three foam strips in the bottom of the box @1"X1". I fold over layers of window screen and place on top of foam. Top that with a 1/4 inch layer of perlite and then soil. This gives a almost 1" air gap for drainage and almost eliminates rot root. I dont plan on flooding them but as Atrain had also mentioned how it effects the tap roots. As soon as they hit it they cant go forward, thus forcing the plant to produce another one instead of coiling around into a ball.


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The plant box is filled and found a foil dip pan to catch any run-off.


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That's about it for now and hopefully next time will be seeing a germinated baby Auto!! I can wait but know from past experience that if you push it and get antsy. You will make mistakes, so there is no start date... will be in touch and ...Peace.....


:420: :peacetwo:
 
Hello All and just a quick update, box is done and doing the little fine tunings on it. The 5 veg bulbs are in and had to re-adjust them a bit. The flex heads worked great with the smaller 45 to 60 watt bulbs in my other grows. I also had the plants outside for 6 to 10 hours in direct sun. So they were just supplemental for the other 8 to 10 hours of lights on. The weight and size of these was a bit to much, but having 4 square and one above. Will turn out better in the end.

I ran the box for 45 minutes and in dropped to 48 to 45% humidity but hit 86 to 88* before I moved the fan. I have pic's that show a cool air intake, a 6 inch fan to fan plant directly. The 100 CFM fan on the exhaust is not pulling enough. I will have that one blowing its 100 CFM into the box at the bottom. I ordered a 190 CFM and it will be here Tuesday'ish. That will double the exhaust and having cold air blown in should drop it into the low 70's. The units are on a sub-basement....basically a 3.5 foot cinder block foundation wall. With support pilings for the floor joists to rest on. So what ever the outside air temp is I will be sucking that into the box... BONUS!!

Just need to set timer for on and off times. Mix a batch of nuits and work with ph tester. Also found a 4 " charcoal filter on sale for $45 dollars. Don't need it till flower's start but don't want to take a chance with the neighbors. I have an old wool saddle blanket to cover the box to tighten it up. Here are a few pic's.....

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This is were I will pull cool air from and just need a 16"x16" air handler filter to kept out any crawlers. I can slide the trap door thingy to reduce air if it drops into the 40's or lower. I also plan to have lights off time from 11:00 AM till 3 then 5 PM.

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That is were I will exhaust it out and the 190 CFM fan will get the temp inline with the smaller one feeding it.

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OHH and a bin of dirt, spectacular huh.

Well time to charge the camera battery cook dinner and wait for UPS to finish her up. I have Thursday off so with a little soak on the bean and popping it in dirt...... I don't know maybe Sunday or Monday a little auto fem will be working. Will let you know!! ...Peace.....

:420: :thumb:
 
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