Plant leaves are getting stiff

Rockskipper

New Member
O.K. guys and girls, I need a little help here. When you push on a leaf and it don't bend like its supposed to, is it time to harvest this girl? The trics are all clear from what I see in the 30x loop but they are everywhere.

I've never been this far on a plant, lol, but dang if I did'nt get one to produse something.
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The cola white hairs are all brown now but there are some white hairs on the popcorn buds on the lower plant.

I figured it had another month to go, but I'm not sure now.
 
Rockskipper: It's a bit late to mess with the nutes. I know that YOU know that you stop N and up the P & K for bloom. Putting that aside, in both my grows so far, as the Ladies approached harvest, they did get brittle. Outdoor plants do the same thing when they approach harvest.

From this point on, it's downhill. She is dying and giving her all to the next generation. It's up to you when you harvest.

In my first grow, I called a halt at 100 days in flower, since I had a sativa, and she was brittle as sugar glass, but gave some good smoke, according to the family members who do smoke.

My current Lady is damned near ready, too. Medusa is a shadow of herself, and extremely brittle, due to all the stresses I have put her through, in addition to alternating formulas of mite treatment, I'm going to harvest her at the very latest, in 1 or 2 weeks, and do a bud wash to get the last neem and soap/oil spray off her buds and sugar leaves.

Your ladies look a lot better than mine, probably because you didn't put them through a mite-extermination regime.

I suggest doing a gradual harvest, top colas first, then wait for the lower flowers to mature, then finish up in about a week or two, however long it takes, and how much your Ladies will tolerate.
 
Yea actully I hav'nt giving her anything except straight tap water for the last 40 days,. I think if I remember right on this plant on July 20th was the first day for 12/12. ( the big one was in 12/12 on the first of july.) so if that was the case it only has 72 days on her in the flowering stage. Hmmm.( I gotta keep better records )

Just was'nt sure about the glassy look on some of the leaves either.

Should I start trimming some leaves?

I am open to all suggestions. Thanks.

AKgramma I might clip a couple off the top and see how she is. I just keep reading that alot of people harvest to soon because of lack of patiance and I don't want to be one of those. But at the same time I don't want some bud that went past there limit.
 
This bud was taking off the top left stem of the 4th picture, we will see what others think about it after it drys out for a couple of days.
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My guess is that you will want to give your ladies another 2 - 4 weeks. I don't see much in the way of trics on them. But you'll know after you test the bud.

I had some old cannabudder in the freezer. I don't remember if I used just fan leaves or if I added some shake to it, but the cookies I made hit me like a brick, made me so dizzy I had to practically crawl to the recliner, then my body started to tingle, and I couldn't move a muscle! I certainly felt no pain whatsoever from the arthritis! That was a 3-1/2 hour nap, solid with lots of nice dreams. I can live with that.:dreamy:

Tonight, I just took HALF a cookie. I don't like the head stone-thingy, but I sure liked the body tingle. Will be heading for bed as soon as things start getting fuzzy. LOL!
 
I second that. Really dark leaves with some looking like they are burning up. Flush the heck out of her and give her a bit more time.

L8r

I think you gentlemen missed something Rockskipper said:

Re: Plant leaves are getting stiff

Yea actully I hav'nt giving her anything except straight tap water for the last 40 days,

;)
 
Rockskipper,

"it only has 72 days on her in the flowering stage." "actully I hav'nt giving her anything except straight tap water for the last 40 days"

Your plants would have had to gone into flower (12/12) with an abundance of high nitrogen nutrients.

In addition you probably have given them more NPK for the first thirty days of flower.

Tap water can cause some unexpected problems. 40 days of no nutrients should have taken the leaves back to a much lighter green.

I would switch to distilled water in normal quantities and add some hydrogen peroxide to it.

Normally reducing fan leafs is part of flowering plants. However, in your case the additional water uptake the larger leaves require should help use up the extra nitrogen. I would treat any extra shading as secondary until the leaves started showing some yellowing.

If you can establish a good water uptake, your plants should finish out with at least twice the bud weight you are looking at now.

Best
canyon
 
I didn't miss that but the tap water may be part of the problem. Excess mineral salts from tap water cause the exact problem with the stiff, burning leaves that over-nuting does. Excessively dark green leaves is either excess nitrogen that may be in the soil already as the plants doesn't use a lot of N in later flowering so without a serious flush previous N buildup can still be there. Excess Ca has dark green newer growth as one of it's first indicators and just look at the colour in those newer bud leaves.

It's likely a bit too late to get any more yield from that plant by flushing now tho it may put out more flowers once it's flushed. It will help the taste and burn if it were well flushed and allowed a bit more time but without new growth to use up the stored nutes in the leaves the old fans won't likely start going yellow.

That's my call on what's going on. I've burned enough fans over-nuting my own plants to see the same thing here. Tap water usually contains a lot of calcium carbonates and need regular flushing to get rid of the excess minerals that build up in the rootball over time. With real hard water, 400 - 500ppm, flushing every third or fourth watering is needed to prevent toxic salts buildup. I only use RO or distilled water for all my growing to prevent that and have grown in soilless medium with hydro nutes for over 10 years without needing to flush my plants at all by regulating the amounts of nutes they get fed so they aren't getting more than they need at each stage of growth.

A water quality report from the supplier is usually free to get and can help a grower decide about flushing needs or whether to use the water for growing at all.

L8r
 
OldMedUser,


The reason tap water jumped out for me was a personal experience I had. I blew a RO membrane and was not monitoring the output PPM for a long time. I was also adding cal-mag. I am still rebuilding from misjudging what was going on then.


January will be four years of scaling up lights, and everything else here.


Best,
canyon
 
I probably will never have giant ladies with my economy 6-plant grow, but I don't run a business to recoup my expenses, either. That means, for me, no $300 gorilla tents, no LEDs, no built-in venting and filtering systems, no special water. Nutes and insecticides are what I can afford or provide naturally.

So whatever photos I share will never be showcase quality. But my grow WILL put you on your butt, and is guaranteed non-toxic. This is my source of pride.

But I continue to learn from you all every day, and try what methods and materials I can afford. Thank you for that! :thanks:
 
Rockskipper,

“it only has 72 days on her in the flowering stage.” “actully I hav'nt giving her anything except straight tap water for the last 40 days”

Your plants would have had to gone into flower (12/12) with an abundance of high nitrogen nutrients.

In addition you probably have given them more NPK for the first thirty days of flower.

Tap water can cause some unexpected problems. 40 days of no nutrients should have taken the leaves back to a much lighter green.

I would switch to distilled water in normal quantities and add some hydrogen peroxide to it.

Normally reducing fan leafs is part of flowering plants. However, in your case the additional water uptake the larger leaves require should help use up the extra nitrogen. I would treat any extra shading as secondary until the leaves started showing some yellowing.

If you can establish a good water uptake, your plants should finish out with at least twice the bud weight you are looking at now.

Best
canyon

So how much proxcide for a gallon of water? Its well water.

And Old Med would you still flush them with this cocktail?

Guys I'm just learning this so don't get me wrong if I ask questions.

I'm on my sixth month on this plant and would like to see her come out good.
 
Well, I don't actually know. (g)

There is a chemical ratio that is optimal. The idea is to increase the available oxygen in the water. It allows otherwise pure h2o to carry more oxygen. The effects dissipate after about 30 hours or so.

What it allows is over watering to saturation (flushing) while maintaining an oxygenated environment that a dryer breathing soil would have.

A small amount is better than none, too much will kill everything.

I have not seriously tested the upper limits.

I have used it often and for other reasons to the extent that I just give a gallon of water a squeeze of peroxide.

10 to 15 ml per gal is safe for several waterings.

Distilled not spring

All you are trying to do is keep enough good water available to the root system to allow the plant to rebalance it's uptake system

Best
canyon
 
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