Need help diagnosing new issue

[mcurtin201]

First timer here.
Started plant in Mid-August.
Outdoor grow in pot
Hot humid climate
I figure the its been in Flower for 8 weeks.
Been using Emerald Harvest Cali Pro Bloom A & B per chart
Also using King Kola per chart

Plant was doing great until a few days ago when I noticed spots on some of the leaves. (pic's included)
Thinking maybe Calcium deficiency?

 

[Islandgrow]

First timer here.
Started plant in Mid-August.
Outdoor grow in pot
Hot humid climate
I figure the its been in Flower for 8 weeks.
Been using Emerald Harvest Cali Pro Bloom A & B per chart
Also using King Kola per chart

Plant was doing great until a few days ago when I noticed spots on some of the leaves. (pic's included)
Thinking maybe Calcium deficiency?

I would think either a P or K deficiency are you flushing?

 

[Scientific]

I'm going to guess a calcium deficiency.

Are you using reverse osmosis treated water by any chance?

 

[Cultivator]

They look rough mate. What exactly have you been feeding, what ec/ppm, ph?

Its a little strange to have a cal deficiency start at 8 weeks of flower, it would show way sooner if it was that. So if it is that its likely down to a ph issue or a root issue caused by pests most likely.

Check for pests under leaves and on top of the media.

 

[Scientific]

Check for pests under leaves and on top of the media.

Yeah, thrip damage occurred to me as well, but I've never seen it first hand, so...

 

[mcurtin201]

Not flushing atm.

 

[mcurtin201]

Cali Pro Bloom A and B 6.0ml twice a week
King Kola 8.0ml twice a week switching to 4.0ml
1 gal of plain water. Haven't been checking for PH. A bit late now for this one.

I have not flushed the plant.

Checked the plant no bugs at all.

Interesting thing is the this is just on one side of the plant. The other side is perfect. I do rotate the plant since the sun is lower on the horizon due to the time of the year. Temp is still in the 80's , humidity is dropping.

Doesn't seem to be spreading.

 

[Scientific]

Do you know anything about your "plain water," like how many PPM? Do you have hard water?

The reason I ask is I'm still thinking calcium deficiency, and that's less common in areas with hard water and higher PPM.

 

[mcurtin201]

Don't know about the water to be honest. I have ordered a ph tester. That should arrive any day. I have also ordered Calmag just in case. The Trichomes are still clear so I think I have some time yet.

thx for the feed back

 

[Scientific]

Don't know about the water to be honest. I have ordered a ph tester. That should arrive any day. I have also ordered Calmag just in case. The Trichomes are still clear so I think I have some time yet.

thx for the feed back

A PPM (parts-per-million) tester (a.k.a. an EC (electroconductivity) tester or a TDS (total dissolved solids) tester) is a worthwhile investment too if you have an extra $20--one of those things that think you don't need until you have one, then you wonder how you ever got along without it.

Be sure to order some pH 7.0 calibration solution for use with your pH tester. It's pretty much worthless without it, and storing the tester's glass electrode in pH 7.0 solution will help its accuracy and make it last longer.

 

[mcurtin201]

Ok just got my tester. It's a Newdy if that means anything. Gets good ratings. Going to get my solutions today. How do you store the glass electrode in the ph solution. I don't see where the electrode comes out. thx

 

[Oldbear]

Do you know anything about your "plain water," like how many PPM? Do you have hard water?

The reason I ask is I'm still thinking calcium deficiency, and that's less common in areas with hard water and higher PPM.

Hi Scientific - do you know of a range of different minerals in hard water thats acceptable? I have very hard water at the cabin and Ive wondered if there is such a thing as TOO hard?

 

[Scientific]

Hi Scientific - do you know of a range of different minerals in hard water thats acceptable? I have very hard water at the cabin and Ive wondered if there is such a thing as TOO hard?

Here's some info I got from two manufacturers that I think shows some of the lab peoples' thinking.

Advanced Nutrients support told me in email that ideally their nutrients are used in water with very low or no other mineral content. (I'm guessing that that allows you to have a simple, well defined solution with no hard water "wild cards" throwing things off?)

General Hydroponics makes a hard water version of their FloraMicro fertilizer. Called Floramicro Hardwater (approximately enough) GH says "FloraMicro provides rapidly growing plants with a combination of chelated micro nutrients uniquely formulated for hardwater conditions."

GH recommends using the hard water version if your water reads 250 total PPM or higher or 70 PPM Ca. (Interestingly, they only make a hard water version of that one bottle in a three bottle solution. There is no hard water version of FloraGro or FloraBloom).

If memory serves, GH also recommends using a mix of FloraMicro and FloraMicro Hardwater for lower levels (like if you have 125 PPM, use 1/2 regular and 1/2 hard water?).

All that said, I was just on a thread with a guy here the other day whose water reads about 320 PPM and he says his plants do fine with no special treatment (however, he was posting about some weird calcium problem he was having, and his water pH was in the 8s--not ideal).

I hope that helps give at least an idea?

 

[Scientific]

Ok just got my tester. It's a Newdy if that means anything. Gets good ratings. Going to get my solutions today. How do you store the glass electrode in the ph solution. I don't see where the electrode comes out. thx

In the lab, we would just leave the probe immersed in a little beaker of pH 7 calibration solution.

I store my pH pen vertically with the cap on and the cap filled with calibration solution when I'm not using it.

 

[Oldbear]

Thats a great help

Here's some info I got from two manufacturers that I think shows some of the lab peoples' thinking.

Advanced Nutrients support told me in email that ideally their nutrients are used in water with very low or no other mineral content. (I'm guessing that that allows you to have a simple, well defined solution with no hard water "wild cards" throwing things off?)

General Hydroponics makes a hard water version of their FloraMicro fertilizer. Called Floramicro Hardwater (approximately enough) GH says "FloraMicro provides rapidly growing plants with a combination of chelated micro nutrients uniquely formulated for hardwater conditions."

GH recommends using the hard water version if your water reads 250 total PPM or higher or 70 PPM Ca. (Interestingly, they only make a hard water version of that one bottle in a three bottle solution. There is no hard water version of FloraGro or FloraBloom).

If memory serves, GH also recommends using a mix of FloraMicro and FloraMicro Hardwater for lower levels (like if you have 125 PPM, use 1/2 regular and 1/2 hard water?).

All that said, I was just on a thread with a guy here the other day whose water reads about 320 PPM and he says his plants do fine with no special treatment (however, he was posting about some weird calcium problem he was having, and his water pH was in the 8s--not ideal).

I hope that helps give at least an idea?

 

[Furcifer]

Cali Pro Bloom A and B 6.0ml twice a week
King Kola 8.0ml twice a week switching to 4.0ml
1 gal of plain water. Haven't been checking for PH. A bit late now for this one.

I have not flushed the plant.

Checked the plant no bugs at all.

Interesting thing is the this is just on one side of the plant. The other side is perfect. I do rotate the plant since the sun is lower on the horizon due to the time of the year. Temp is still in the 80's , humidity is dropping.

Doesn't seem to be spreading.

####
I have to say by what you said here!
And leaves are twisting up, down, and to the sides also. (Viewed in pic)

This is WIND BURN leaves affected cannot exasperate.

 

[mcurtin201]

Thats great info. Another question. I was told to add the nuits to the water then test for PH? Or should the testing be done before hand, then adjust the water prior to adding nuits? does it make a difference?

 

[mcurtin201]

@Furcifer

Wind Burn thats interesting. We do get some crazy winds on occasion. Just out of the blue. Should I do anything with those leaves? Remove them? They haven't gotten any worse and it was only on one section of the plant.

 

[dj1714]

Thats great info. Another question. I was told to add the nuits to the water then test for PH? Or should the testing be done before hand, then adjust the water prior to adding nuits? does it make a difference?

Always ph last. Adding nutrients will change ph.

 

[Furcifer]

Thats great info. Another question. I was told to add the nuits to the water then test for PH? Or should the testing be done before hand, then adjust the water prior to adding nuits? does it make a difference?

You should always test pH after adding nutes. Depending on the type of nutrient used. You should wait up to 15 minutes.

Unless you are using a continuous use monitor. All testing should be done on still (not bubbling or moving) water.

@Furcifer

Wind Burn thats interesting. We do get some crazy winds on occasion. Just out of the blue. Should I do anything with those leaves? Remove them? They haven't gotten any worse and it was only on one section of the plant.

The leaves are fine. If it is WIND BURN (which I believe it is). The leaves not being able to complete there process. Are showing pH fluctuations.

Protect the windy side with a wind break.
Keep an eye on it.
You already stated that it's not spreading (another clue to probably not a deficiency).

8th week of flower! . Have a great finale!