Solis-Tek 10k Finisher & UVB Penetration

jimb0b

New Member
So I currently run 2 hortilux HPS bulbs in cool tube reflectors in my flower room. I got the cool tube reflectors to have minimal drag to the air blowing through. My temp is great right now, and I dont need AC. I am however looking to widen my spectrum, and add some UV rays to increase resin production. I have been looking at using 2 400w CMH bulbs, which I already have ballasts for, but after reading "The Basics Of Plant Lighting" post:
The Basics Of Plant Lighting

I have come to the conclusion that the Solis-Tek 10k "Finisher" bulb will better suit my needs. I have been reading about this bulb, and I have few questions:

1. Why is this bulb called the "finisher" it looks like it would be the perfect addition in a 2-1 configuration with HPS thru the whole flower cycle, since it has super UV and most of the blue spectrum, but teeters down towards the red/yellow, that is well covered by the HPS. Why would you not want UV light until the last week or three?

2. UV light penetration. Since I am using cooled hoods, I would ideally like to use one on this bulb too, as It will probably be a 1000w, but I am reading that any sort of glass even boroscilate, blocks UV rays. Even CMH bulbs seem to be made of glass that would block some of the UV. Solis-tek is the only bulb I know of that uses "Low-E" or Low Iron Glass, specifically to let UV pass through. Am I stuck using barebulb if I want UV? or does anyone make a cooled hood with this "low-E" low iron glass?
If I do end up going barebulb, how hot does this bulb burn compared with CMH or other HID lights you might be using? CMH is supposed to be very efficient, not only because it has more usable light than other HID lights, but people say it burns much cooler than your average 400w HPS or MH. This bulb seems to blow the CMH out of the water for horticultural purposes, particularly those that could benefit from UV, which is exciting because I thought CMH was the next best thing that everyone would be using before long, but it looks to me like we have something better available. I have not heard anything about how hot it burns. I am hoping to run a 1000w DE but Might be convinced to run a 600 instead if the heat is gonna be too much. Should I plan on needing AC? I would rather know upfront if this is a monster to cool. I am hoping to get away with upgrading my intake and exhaust fans, and putting the cooltubes on a separate circuit. aka separate fan/ducting. I am hoping to hear from people currently using this bulb in their setup.

3. From My research this bulb is supposed to run on a Pulse start ballast, which to me means a MH magnetic ballast. Unless of course you buy a Solis-Tek electronic ballast. Is this just an advertising scheme, or do I need a magnetic MH ballast if I dont want to buy their E-ballast?

4. My last and final question:
They also they make a Double End version of this bulb, which is what I will probably end up using. I have an electronic ballast made for Double End Bulbs, but it is not made by Solis-Tek. I assume this will work just fine for the solis-Tek 10k DE bulb, but I wanted to make sure. since they seem so specific on what kind of ballast to use.

How many of you are using this bulb? how are your results? Does anyone use it for the full flowering cycle, or just in the last 1-3 weeks like they say?

Thanks for any light you guys can shed on this.
 
re: Solis-Tek 10k Finisher & UVB Penetration

I ran their 1000w 10k in cooltube integrated reflectors on some Super Lemon Haze, didn't seem to heat too badly.. I have a Solis Tek Matrix that I can adjust in addition to light spacing/distance. If need be, just dim the ballast output down (if capable). I actually called Solis Tek to ask them this very question, about the tube/glass and the degree in which you loose spectral output, in my case concern for UV reduction as it relates to running them "bare" or out of the tubes exposed and if the increase of UV was worth the hassle of increase of heat.. it all depends. BUT, basically, if you're not in a "laboratory" environment (we're not, we are home guys) then the reduction is minimal in comparison to the heat increase. AKA just leave it in the tubes. They will still output the spectrum we expect from the bulb. Yes, reduction can and does occur to some degree, NOT to the point it is hyped up online in some threads. The 10k and UV are all still there and all still being used and available.
 
Back
Top Bottom