Vic's Super Soil Recipes & Notes

Smokin Moose

Fallen Cannabis Warrior & Ex Moderator
Super Soil Mix

Original Recipe, as it was given to me.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix
2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source
1 L Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
1/2 - 1 bag chicken manure (steer, mushroom, etc) - nitrogen & trace
elements

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

Revised Recipe, after several failures due to bad manure sources, I now use the following recipe. Results have been excellent and the clones seem to take off right away instead of having a slow growing settling in period.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.


Substitutions
- The original recipe was a success, but I simply needed to experiment. In addition, sometimes not all ingredients were always available. Therefore, here are some possible additions and/or substitutions:

Blood & Bone Meal - when trying to cut costs
Kelp Meal - contains over 62 trace minerals. Good supplement for reducing the manure content to speed availability of soil.
Worm castings - excellent source of micro nutrients.
Bat guano - excellent for top dressing a week into flowering.
Seabird guano

Bugs
On a couple of occasions, I've ended up with fungus gnats with this soil mix. They are more of an irritation than anything but may harm weak or young plants. Some have said that putting a layer of sand on top of the soil in the pots stops the gnats from reproducing. Others can get rid of them by doing a soil drench with gnatrol or vectobac (BTI). Personally, I prefer to simply introduce fungus gnat predators (Hypoaspis miles). Once established, they not only control fungus gnats, but also thrips and mites. When there is no insect food available, they survive on dead plant material, so remain even after pests are gone to prevent future infestations. Actually, since they have been introduced, I've had no pest problems in over a year and I don't filter my intake.

Recycling Soil
Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils. That said; I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now.

As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while. I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it. After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro-nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.
 
i live in South America and have went to mary gardening stores and cannot find perlite (perlita) by the actual name and they have no clue what im talking about. I have seen some small white rocks which are for fish tanks and talk about being neutral in ph, will these work? what is perlite mainly used for other than growing ? can anyone please help me?
 
I don't know my friend. I just checked a spanish-english dictionary and there was no corresponding word in spanish. Perlite is light and airy volcanic rock. It's those little white pieces in most ready-mixed potting soil. Wait...Wikipedia says "perlita".
 
I find it very hard to source quality soil mixture ingredients in my location. Is there any where you can order these types of ingredients online? I imagine it'd even be cheaper than buying locally and hopefully wouldn't be too heavy in terms of postage.
 
Im in Colombia South America and Im very excited about my decision to harvest. I am buying things on ebay and so far i have the lights 400Wmh/hps and getting ready to buy the ballast that goes both ways! LOL Anyway... I am looking to buy all the nutrients that I will need for the next year and really need some advise as to which ones i need and what brands to buy. I bought Superthrive Plant Vitamins Hormones, CLONEX CLONE ROOTING GEL SOLUTION , and dont want to go nuts buying I wont need or getting them and killing the plants, what others should i get for the whole process...?

The seeds I bought were from attitude seed bank(feminized and advanced seeds) and got a couple of strains. I have set up a small closet 2ft x 2ft x 5.5ft. I would really appreciate any feedback and advise! This is one goal im very serious about!

Thank you in advance !!!

Rookie anxious to learn and enjoy my favorite plant !!!
 
I have grown with Vic's for a few years. It is a great mix. In a five gallon planter you will not need to add any plant food. Just add water, so damn simple. From clone to harvest it works killer.

I have taken out the trace elements and added some other instructions. This mix will stink to high heaven if you cover it wet. I am not kidding about the smell. So get it moist and let it sit a few weeks. Stir it now and then while it sits.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings


- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit (uncovered) 1-2 weeks before use.

Sunshine_Mix_2_3_8_cf.jpg

Sun Gro Horticulture | Products | | Sunshine Mix #2 / LB2

pro_mix_hp_small.gif

Premier Horticulture – PRO-MIX growing mixes & Peat Moss: The ultimate growing performance
 
I've been looking at Vic Super Soil Recipe after a bad experience and loosing my babies to "Weed-o-Vores" . Anyway , I wanted to find out if this recipe still stands the test of time ? Some input on this would be greatly appreciated . It's about time for another attempt at an indoor grow .
Thanks
 
I have grown with Vic's for a few years. It is a great mix. In a five gallon planter you will not need to add any plant food. Just add water, so damn simple. From clone to harvest it works killer.

I have taken out the trace elements and added some other instructions. This mix will stink to high heaven if you cover it wet. I am not kidding about the smell. So get it moist and let it sit a few weeks. Stir it now and then while it sits.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit (uncovered) 1-2 weeks before use.


Sunshine_Mix_2_3_8_cf.jpg

Sun Gro Horticulture | Products | | Sunshine Mix #2 / LB2

pro_mix_hp_small.gif

Premier Horticulture – PRO-MIX growing mixes & Peat Moss: The ultimate growing performance
 
@SweetSue @Van Stank is this similar to mixes either of you use? Is this a decent formula to incorporate into my VC?

Thanks in advance!!!
 
I like the simplicity of it, but I know little about soil mixes. I can see why it needs to cook with that much bloodmeal in it.

The CC-style soil I used can be planted in at the time you mix it up, it’s that safe. Cooking in advance helps get things better distributed throughout the medium, but there’s nothing hot in it.

This looks like an interesting medium and Rumple says he’s used it successfully, so given a good cook time I see no real concerns. There’re so many ways to skin this Canna cat. :battingeyelashes:

When Van shows up he’ll be better informed. bobrown14 is my go-to for soil questions. He keeps tabs with Van over at the organic soil thread. I’ll be interested in his take on this mix. First I’d heard of it myself.
 
I've heard to cover it and not to cover it...I'm reading a lot of mixed things. Mines been in a 55 gal garbage can covered for 2 days...I'm thinking about dumping it out putting it in smaller bins and covering it with something breathable to keep bugs out. Any ideas? Cheesecloth maybe?

Green recycling bins have airflow. There are designs on the net for DIY composters that would also work.
 
Super Soil Mix

Original Recipe, as it was given to me.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix
2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source
1 L Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
1/2 - 1 bag chicken manure (steer, mushroom, etc) - nitrogen & trace
elements

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

Revised Recipe, after several failures due to bad manure sources, I now use the following recipe. Results have been excellent and the clones seem to take off right away instead of having a slow growing settling in period.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.


Substitutions
- The original recipe was a success, but I simply needed to experiment. In addition, sometimes not all ingredients were always available. Therefore, here are some possible additions and/or substitutions:

Blood & Bone Meal - when trying to cut costs
Kelp Meal - contains over 62 trace minerals. Good supplement for reducing the manure content to speed availability of soil.
Worm castings - excellent source of micro nutrients.
Bat guano - excellent for top dressing a week into flowering.
Seabird guano

Bugs
On a couple of occasions, I've ended up with fungus gnats with this soil mix. They are more of an irritation than anything but may harm weak or young plants. Some have said that putting a layer of sand on top of the soil in the pots stops the gnats from reproducing. Others can get rid of them by doing a soil drench with gnatrol or vectobac (BTI). Personally, I prefer to simply introduce fungus gnat predators (Hypoaspis miles). Once established, they not only control fungus gnats, but also thrips and mites. When there is no insect food available, they survive on dead plant material, so remain even after pests are gone to prevent future infestations. Actually, since they have been introduced, I've had no pest problems in over a year and I don't filter my intake.

Recycling Soil
Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils. That said; I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now.

As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while. I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it. After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro-nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.
Good right up have U herd of companion plants to naturally keep mites bugs and stuff away makes for a good read
 
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