What are good ppm ranges to stay within?

THConnoisseur

New Member
whats up dudes? im within a WEEK of starting my first hydro grow (WOO HOO!! :yahoo:) and i believe i have as much of this shit figured out as possible except for a solid ppm chart to work from, or at least a relatively "safe" guidline for each week so i dont wreck everything lol i will be using sensi 2part grow & bloom, big bud, and piranha definitely, and im still deciding on including calmag grow & bloom and/or final phase.

what ppm ranges do you guys stay within each week when starting with well rooted clones? (i will be vegging about 2-3 weeks before i top em and start flowering so if you can consider that it would help a lot :grinjoint:)

thanks dudes :thumb:
 
whats up dudes? im within a WEEK of starting my first hydro grow (WOO HOO!! :yahoo:) and i believe i have as much of this shit figured out as possible except for a solid ppm chart to work from, or at least a relatively "safe" guidline for each week so i dont wreck everything lol i will be using sensi 2part grow & bloom, big bud, and piranha definitely, and im still deciding on including calmag grow & bloom and/or final phase.

what ppm ranges do you guys stay within each week when starting with well rooted clones? (i will be vegging about 2-3 weeks before i top em and start flowering so if you can consider that it would help a lot :grinjoint:)

thanks dudes :thumb:
I start with 600 PPm for week 1
900 PPm for week 2
1200 PPm for week 3
if you go over 3 weeks veg
1500 PPM week 4
1800 PPM week 5 and hold there
at bloom I flush and go to 1000 PPM week1
1300 ppm week 2
1600 PPM week 3
1900 PPM week 4
flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
and hold there until last 2 weeks and ad your bloom enhancers if your using them


this is double secret probation info..:yummy:
 
Pit your a BEAST!! THANK YOU BRO!! thats exactly what i needed to see... definitely keep an eye out for my first grow journal in the next week or so and i know youll have some helpful hints for me, AS USUAL. :thumb:

peace dude
 
I would like to offer a ppm chart as a rule of thumb or ball park target ppm, but each grow or garden is going to be different.

These numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:

Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700

Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

(this excludes the ppm of your water)



PPM-EC-C.jpg
 
personally. all the above posts are correct...start SLOWLY...i "nute by the number" meaning i start at 200 and the next day if the reading is higher i dillute...if the next day it is lower i increase the strength...all done in small increments.this allows me to run multiple strains and keeps from any burning on any of my plants....lush green forest...the plants will tell you how much to feed them,you just have to know how to ask...your meter will ask
 
I start with 600 PPm for week 1
900 PPm for week 2
1200 PPm for week 3
if you go over 3 weeks veg
1500 PPM week 4
1800 PPM week 5 and hold there
at bloom I flush and go to 1000 PPM week1
1300 ppm week 2
1600 PPM week 3
1900 PPM week 4
flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
and hold there until last 2 weeks and ad your bloom enhancers if your using them


this is double secret probation info..:yummy:

Perfect VP, the only thing I would add is it to give them hydrohen peroxide every day.
 
enlighten me

Sorry long read: I suggest getting 33% concentrate as the crap you get at the pharmacy is full of impurities. As far as how much,,,3ml/gallon in the rez at change and half that everyday. Works wonders and in soil too. Oh and use gloves as it will turn your slin milky white to the touch and it lasts awhile.

How it works
You can not "cure" pythium. It is a bacteria. It is always present.
You can prevent and "cure" the symptoms of a pythium infection. In this case, "cure" simply means ridding the plant of infectious symptoms. The actual bacteria will still be present.
The key is to make your root zone hospitable to the roots, not to bacteria, usually caused by low oxygen levels in the solution or high temp solutions (which also causes low O2 levels).
Cool nutrient solution temps (68-73 F) and proper aeration will not allow pythium to grow
So we pour hydrogen peroxide into our water, which gives a slight reading of EC or electrical current/conductivity so that needs taking into account.

The H2O2 is very unstable in its current form and it quickly breaks down once in the nutrient solution. Essentially, within a short space of time it’s present only in its component form (water and oxygen), and in reaching this form it releases a single oxygen atom.

This oxygen atom is ultra-reactive as well as aggressive. It’s looking for a fight, but instead of looking to cause problems it’s actually on your team.

So the unstable single oxygen atom sets off, looking for mischief to make.

If it comes across another oxygen atom, it attaches itself to the other atom, forming a larger, more stable oxygen molecule, or ion. This gets taken in by the plant through the roots, and benefits growth both above, as well as within the root zone.

If however, the rambunctious oxygen atom comes across an organic molecule, such as a virus, or fungal spore as it waxes & wanes through your nutrient solution, it will attach itself to the pathogen and quite literally oxidise itself, as well as whatever organism it had attached itself to.

And this stuff actually works!

So what this means is not only does H2O2 supply the nutrients (and indirectly, the plants) with a massive boost of pure oxygen ions, it will also play a huge part in keeping your reservoir fresh, highly oxygenated, as well as free from organisms such as Pythium, Fusarium, mould as well as a plethora of other nasties we encounter daily as hydroponic growers.

Not only that but when the crop comes down there is no better cleaning agent to use (albeit in higher concentrations) than hydrogen peroxide. Not only will it clean as effectively as bleach but, as explained earlier it attaches itself to other organic micro-bad guys, and oxidises them into nothingness. They simply cease to exist, leaving your grow room clean, sterile and ready for the next crop.



O2
If it even needed saying, a fresh and regular exposure to pure oxygen will work wonders in how your plants look and “feel”.

Oxygen invigorates, it heals, it’s present (and necessary) in every living form and plants just can’t get enough of it.

With lots of oxygen available nutrient uptake is massively boosted and if the plants getting the nutrients, it will use them.

Also, this extra nutrient, along with a blast of oxygen is going to increase the production of proteins at cell level across the board, especially if the plant is getting plenty of CO2 (the carbon source the plants use to actually “build” themselves). This means thicker stronger stems with shorter inter-nodal spacing, as well as lush deep green healthy foliage.

Which is also better equipped to handle the complicated conversions as a result of the photosynthetic processes the plant carries out, in the creation of the sugars and starch’s necessary to feed it.

As a result of this mad growth, your plants will supply readily, the smaller side branch’s necessary to facilitate a productive run of cuttings.

So, no matter what your chosen growing method is, get some hydrogen peroxide in the grow room.


Either used for oxygenation, or for pathogen destruction and prevention, or as a cleaning agent, H2O2 fills all these rolls and more, with aplomb.
 
Sorry long read: I suggest getting 33% concentrate as the crap you get at the pharmacy is full of impurities. As far as how much,,,3ml/gallon in the rez at change and half that everyday. Works wonders and in soil too. Oh and use gloves as it will turn your slin milky white to the touch and it lasts awhile.

How it works
You can not "cure" pythium. It is a bacteria. It is always present.
You can prevent and "cure" the symptoms of a pythium infection. In this case, "cure" simply means ridding the plant of infectious symptoms. The actual bacteria will still be present.
The key is to make your root zone hospitable to the roots, not to bacteria, usually caused by low oxygen levels in the solution or high temp solutions (which also causes low O2 levels).
Cool nutrient solution temps (68-73 F) and proper aeration will not allow pythium to grow
So we pour hydrogen peroxide into our water, which gives a slight reading of EC or electrical current/conductivity so that needs taking into account.

The H2O2 is very unstable in its current form and it quickly breaks down once in the nutrient solution. Essentially, within a short space of time it's present only in its component form (water and oxygen), and in reaching this form it releases a single oxygen atom.

This oxygen atom is ultra-reactive as well as aggressive. It's looking for a fight, but instead of looking to cause problems it's actually on your team.

So the unstable single oxygen atom sets off, looking for mischief to make.

If it comes across another oxygen atom, it attaches itself to the other atom, forming a larger, more stable oxygen molecule, or ion. This gets taken in by the plant through the roots, and benefits growth both above, as well as within the root zone.

If however, the rambunctious oxygen atom comes across an organic molecule, such as a virus, or fungal spore as it waxes & wanes through your nutrient solution, it will attach itself to the pathogen and quite literally oxidise itself, as well as whatever organism it had attached itself to.

And this stuff actually works!

So what this means is not only does H2O2 supply the nutrients (and indirectly, the plants) with a massive boost of pure oxygen ions, it will also play a huge part in keeping your reservoir fresh, highly oxygenated, as well as free from organisms such as Pythium, Fusarium, mould as well as a plethora of other nasties we encounter daily as hydroponic growers.

Not only that but when the crop comes down there is no better cleaning agent to use (albeit in higher concentrations) than hydrogen peroxide. Not only will it clean as effectively as bleach but, as explained earlier it attaches itself to other organic micro-bad guys, and oxidises them into nothingness. They simply cease to exist, leaving your grow room clean, sterile and ready for the next crop.



O2
If it even needed saying, a fresh and regular exposure to pure oxygen will work wonders in how your plants look and "feel".

Oxygen invigorates, it heals, it's present (and necessary) in every living form and plants just can't get enough of it.

With lots of oxygen available nutrient uptake is massively boosted and if the plants getting the nutrients, it will use them.

Also, this extra nutrient, along with a blast of oxygen is going to increase the production of proteins at cell level across the board, especially if the plant is getting plenty of CO2 (the carbon source the plants use to actually "build" themselves). This means thicker stronger stems with shorter inter-nodal spacing, as well as lush deep green healthy foliage.

Which is also better equipped to handle the complicated conversions as a result of the photosynthetic processes the plant carries out, in the creation of the sugars and starch's necessary to feed it.

As a result of this mad growth, your plants will supply readily, the smaller side branch's necessary to facilitate a productive run of cuttings.

So, no matter what your chosen growing method is, get some hydrogen peroxide in the grow room.


Either used for oxygenation, or for pathogen destruction and prevention, or as a cleaning agent, H2O2 fills all these rolls and more, with aplomb.

H202 is not something people using organaic nutes should use.....Right? I'm using the Botanicare Pro line and figured H202 would kill all the good stuff?
 
In 8 grows, I needed it as a CURE once, for three days, and I used 3%, three tablespoons to one gallon of water. I needed and used it because my water temp was too hot .

I have read that it can be a great PREVENTATIVE if you are not using organic nutes, by adding ONE or TWO tablespoons of 3% per gallon of water.

Why take cough syrup if you don't have a cough?
 
well trainreck, i just went through that acutally..

it was BAD, my root ball looked like a huge white gob, there was floaties everywhere in my res.. and overall, it was just disgusting.

i knew if i didnt act, my plants would die... heres how i got rid of it.

took the plants out ofthe dwc, and dropped the root masses directly into 1 liter of water, to 20ml of 30% h202... super strong.

i left them there for about 45 min while i did the following

dumped the res, washed the res with bleach, rinsed with HOT water.
bleached and rinsed my hoses.
put in new airstones,

then wiped down and bleached everything in my grow cab, just like i were trying to clean up spider mites.

now after EVERYTHING was bleached, and sterile, i loaded my res with the normal nutes, etc. but also added 1ml of 30% h202 per liter of my res (so if the res is 20L, add 20ml of h202)

then i went back to my plants, and ran the root ball under tap water, and massaged the roots with my finger tips to rub off all the slime i possibly could..

a lot of root hairs, and roots got ripped off in the process, but i was determined to get rid of it.

there was still a little bit of it left in my hydroton that i couldnt get rid of, but, either way, 95% of it was gone. (along with a lot of roots :()

now, i put the plants back into the dwc, and woke up the next day to see them extremely stressed and droopy (as i expected after taking such a beating)

for the next 5 days, i would water them through the pots with 10ml 30% h202 to 500ml water threw each pot. wait 10 min, then flush it off the roots and back into the res with 500ml fresh RO water in each.

by day 4, the white goo i couldnt get, was completly gone, and hasnt returned.
by day 5, shes all perky again, and resumed normal growth

but also since then, im loading my res with 10 ml h202 every 3 days to keep it from never returning.

i use AN 3 part with epsom, and dont have issues. if i was using organics, i wouldnt touch the h202, as it will kill your beneficial microbes etc.

sorry for going off topic.
 
I start with 600 PPm for week 1
900 PPm for week 2
1200 PPm for week 3
if you go over 3 weeks veg
1500 PPM week 4
1800 PPM week 5 and hold there
at bloom I flush and go to 1000 PPM week1
1300 ppm week 2
1600 PPM week 3
1900 PPM week 4
flush weekly.....VERY IMPOTANT
and hold there until last 2 weeks and ad your bloom enhancers if your using them


this is double secret probation info..:yummy:


I hate to say it but this is HORRIBLE information!

Allow me to qualify. What meter is being used?

If used with a .500 conversion meter, the e.c. on the final weeks above is nearly 4.0 e.c. and will burn the hell out of your plants!
If used on a .700 conversion meter, the e.c. on the final weeks will be 2.7 e.c and still hot but not nearly as hot as a .500 meter.

Hence you must know the conversion factor use with your tds meter.

Tulip's scale above gives some reference to this very important aspect.
 
lol with all the conflicting advice im more confused than i was when i found this thread ...:goodjob:
 
personally. all the above posts are correct...start SLOWLY...i "nute by the number" meaning i start at 200 and the next day if the reading is higher i dillute...if the next day it is lower i increase the strength...all done in small increments.this allows me to run multiple strains and keeps from any burning on any of my plants....lush green forest...the plants will tell you how much to feed them,you just have to know how to ask...your meter will ask

This is the best info here, My plant's in seven weeks of bloom or at 680ppm Hanna and clones and seedlings at 3 weeks veg are at 400ppms, much more than that they start to show signs of burn, it's dif for everyone one depending on lights ,DO at roots and many other things,. Best way way is find a happy place for your girls
 
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