Watering and nutrients

Budman x

New Member
Q. How often should you water?
Once a week or once every two week for soil and twice a day with a hydroponic flood and drain system.
*When top 2 inches of the soil dry out.* Occasionally provide periods of extra dry and wet soil.
*Allow 10% extra water to drain out of the bottom of the tray.* This will prevent toxic fertilizer build up.

QUOTE is from the 'how often should you water question in the following thread

What are common mistakes made by first time growers?


Only info for soil grows

Watering once every 7 - 14 days is absurd for soil grows unless you are pumping them full of nutes every watering. Under-watering is nearly just as dangerous as over watering cannabis plants and although they are very resilient and will take much abuse, they will not reward you for it.

Watering should be done when the top inch of the growing medium (soil) are dry to the touch, not bone dry as this is under-watering. What happens if you go past that? The growing medium becomes dehydrated which means that rather than accepting the moisture you are offering it neglects it and means that the first 25% you apply run across the top and down the sides, then out the bottom (The % you are meant to let run through) without even saying hello to the roots. What does water do? PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE!!! So why penetrate dry growing medium when you can just run down the sides of the pots?

This is ALL EASILY ELIMINATED BY :

-Water in regular intervals, once you understand your plants requirements, it takes a lot of over watering to get root rot and it's easy to solve by transplanting into dry growing medium after root trimming, however, it doesn't take much to waste time and money on nutes and water.

- Nutes should be only applied in a strict pattern to be useful and always to the plants needs. If this is kept to, plants never need to be flushed.

(I've seen a 16 year old asparagus mother that was more like a bush, living in a 2 litre plastic pot that had never been flushed but still supplied 100+ babies a month)

If for instance, you knew exactly (or approx) what nutes your plant needed, say in a month, then you could divide that by how many watering's you needed in that month.

So, hypothetically you came to the calculation that you need to water 8 times in a month. Then you portion your nutes to be applied 4 times in a monthly period, thus feeding every second watering meaning the frequent watering / feeding cuts out any flood or drought scenario and lowers plant stress since they like regularity. In the end it means that the watering with no feed acts as a mini wash eliminating salt build up and also helps the plant to use up any stored or built-up nutes. ultimately saving you money and time on expensive nutes.

And we all know time is money these days ;).
 
Never used any set pattern or time really. For soil it is super important to keep the biology in the soil alive as this is what is needed to break down organics and make them available for uptake by the roots. Biology in the soil also plays several other very important roles.

Never understood why some let the soil dry out or actually wait for the plant to wilt before watering. If you let any part of the soil dry out, then the biology that is in the soil will die.

Have found that it is best to never let the soil dry out, not even the top 2 inches as you kill off precious biology that is very much needed by the plants.

Keeping the soil moist at all times also makes you need to inoculate the soil less often. The better and more abundant the biology is in the soil, translates to better healthier and bigger plants!

Going by this information above, you would want to time your watering/feeding regiment to whatever it takes to keep the soil moist 24/7. If you keep it to wet or moist, then you have a different set of problems, like stem rot and some other issues as well. It is important to find a "balance" of not dry and not to moist.
 
Over watering is WAY worse than under watering. Transplanting into dry soil will not cure an over watering problem. Too much water in the medium causes the roots to swell, preventing them from absorbing anything. The classic nute lock out look that most blame on PH.

There is no timeline to water your plants, water them when they need water, it's that simple. Water once every week or two?? Yeah if you want a dead plant. Imagine a 2 foot plant in 1 gallon smart pot not being watered for a week, lol.

IMO, no, don't let the plant wilt before giving it water, not good. Lift the pot, when it feels light, water. Feed lightly, every other watering (teas and additives with almost no N-P-K can be added every watering). If she starts to show a deficiency feed her a little more, meaning up the PPM's on feeding days.
 
Hi guys, well my girls just about 22 days, has her 5th set of leaves.7 fingers, she had a prob with her first single bladed leaves and a little spread up to her 3 bladed leaves, its not too bad on them but i dont want it progressing, and those leaves are starting to yellow, ive been told to trim em off?? But i just flushed and gave her light nutes,as i rekn she's def. due to listening to ppl about my watering schedule- i know my soil?? So the pot had nearly dried totally and now ive wet her let it soak and then gave sum light nutes.. Hopin she will continue to grow well from now!
 
my indoor babies are around a week old wid 3 set leaves out.. Used potting soil and perlite- 90-10% leaves are healthy wid nice red stems.. When must i start wid da nutes? And what kind of nutes would you recomend?
 
Well mate,
In my opinion, i wouldnt use any strong nutes for a little bit.. I use a nutrient solution called - Nitrosol ( 10%N,6P,8K ) and i started my girl on that about a quarter strength when she was about 3-4 weeks and had around 6 sets of leaves.. Maybe only fed nutes every 3rd water or so, just ph yur water to about 6.4 and water only when the soil is drying out, i bought a cheap soil moisture meter, its not perfect but gives you a rough idea of whats going on..keep the lights at right height, watch temps and you should be right:)
Hope this helps some, later pal. Smokem..
 
alryt.. will pure nitrogen fertilizer be bad? Coz i read only nitrogen helps faster growth during vegging.. Dis is my 3rd try now.. Something keeps goin wrong.. Water pH, moisture, lighting, air is at da perfect level.. Been checking almost every 6 hrs..
 
I use a natural product that is soluble or you can spread it on the soil.. Its about 47%N and somethin like sulphates make up the rest.. The stuff i use is called 'Urea'.. I use this if im making up an N,P,K nute solution,I have some products, like Sulphur of Potash - Potassium -41% ans sulphate 18% and such i dissolve to feed Cindy, but i dont hit her with this much..
I mainly feed her some of my Nitrosol as it has other nutes like calcium etc; I dont like to over load her with nutrients, as my soil has some slow release ferts, coupled with the soil retaining and building nutrients on its own, i think i have an adequate active nutrient content in my soil as Cindy hasnt shown me any major signs of any deficiency so far..
She goes into flower soon, so she needs her strength and she will have trace elements of N in the soil even after i cut out N during flower, so she shouldnt yellow early hope fully. If she needs a small hit of N ill give it, but until she shows deficiencies im continuing with what i do.
Having no dark period or under/overwatering will slow your plants growth too mate.. I know, my plant when she's thirsty - after her drink she grows nearly 2 inches least over the next 12-24hrs..
Goodluck mate, but yeah be careful with the N, as you may make things go from bad to worse.. All da best. Smokem..
 
I read someone say above that keeping the top 2 inches of soil hydrated is important in keeping the biology of the soil alive.. but isn't that what promotes the growth of mold? In my experience, and especially with growing indoor veggies during the winter, that top layer is the make or break when it comes to getting nasty growths on the top layer. So my question is - are there any other ways to get rid of that mold? I've had it on a couple of pots already this year and was able to move them before it spread from the soil to the plant.. but it's becoming annoying. If I don't water enough the plants don't get what they need, but if I water enough they start molding. I even have a couple of those contraptions that pull the moisture out of the air in an attempt to help. It's kinda working, but there has to be a better way I'm just not thinking about.

Also, someone mentioned asparagus.. My lady and I just planted our first one this year (indoor pot, 2 gal), and it's HUGE! Almost 5 feet tall in less than 2 months.. But for such a large root system it's surprising to see one tall, lone "tree". I've never seen this stuff grow before, but it's fascinating to watch. I was getting 4 inches in ONE DAY! So how do I clone this bad boy? It's started branching, and a few of it's branches are 3-4" long. I'm worried about trying to clip anything at this stage of it's growth. Not sure what would happen..?

Last, my soil wouldn't dry out so I took every single plant out of it, tossed all the soil together and mixed it about 50/50 with sand. I don't know if this will help that molding problem, or if it will only allow the excessive water/nutrients to run through..?

The great northwest is MOLDY in the winter. I think that will be my largest challenge with this indoor veggie garden.
 
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