Flittermouse 2017 Indoor Grow With Clones

Flittermouse

Active Member
Hi,

This is all one-and-the-same plant that I culled from the 5th Indoor Grow (2016) of my selective breeding project. This present grow is my 7th Indoor Grow.

While the history of the founding fund of seed is a little complicated, it may suffice to call it 'Bag Seed'.

The seven plants in the main grow are 192 Days from being viable clones, have been in #3 pots for 85 Days, and have been on a 12/12 (LED/Dark) cycle for 37 Days.

They top out at about 33", and are about 18" (at least) from the light. The recommended distance to the light is 20"-24"; but the plants show no significant signs of leaf spot - probably an indication that the plant is tolerant of high-intensity light.

They are growing in a 4'x4'x6.5' Tent. Here are four pictures:

20170630_075024.jpg

20170630_075455.jpg

20170630_075818.jpg

20170630_080134.jpg


The clones, ten in number, are 82 Days from the cutting, and have been in 22 Oz. cups for about five, or six Weeks, or-so. They are growing in a 2'-8"x2'-8"x5'-3" Hut. Presently they are on a 12/12 (LED/CFL) cycle.

The clones are about 15" tall and 31" from the light. The recommended distance to the light is 28"-32". They seem content. Here are two pictures:

20170630_073429.jpg

20170630_073900.jpg



I could probably say more about things - but I think the above covers the bare essentials. Creating this Grow Journal makes me feel, somewhat, like I am putting my 'toe in the deep end'. I hope things work out well for everyone. Thank you for listening.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

CORRECTION: In Post #1 I wrote: "[...] no significant signs of leaf spot". What I should have written was "[...] no significant signs of leaf bleaching".

At present the plants in the Main Grow are at least 17" from the light (recommended: 20'-24") with no significant signs of leaf bleaching - just a few signs of ordinary leaf die-back, that is, browning at the edges and tips and brownish spotting.

You may have noticed that the two plants adjacent to the Digital Forced Air Heater are somewhat advanced in their leaf defoliation. This would be because they are. I attribute this to excessive evaporation caused by the heater.

I see myself moving to all radiant heat. At present I supplement the DFAH with a seed mat heater with a thermostat. This helps to regulate the ambient heat in the tent.

I freely pinch off any leaves showing signs of die-back. I pinch the tips of some of the buds when they become pinchable. Some I leave alone, out of curiosity. The ones closest to the light I let grow and observe their fate. The pinched buds begin to get firmer at the tips after a week to 10 days.

As for the clones, they were looking somewhat pot-bound so I transplanted them from 22 Oz. Tumblers to #1 Pots on Monday, July 3.
They all plopped out of their tumblers like this one - plopped out of their tumblers like a loaf of bread plops out of the pan:


20170703_123010.jpg


I transplanted the ten of them into #1 Pots:

20170703_152454.jpg


Flittermouse
 
Hi,

A few comments on the Clones:

The day after I transplanted them, I made a few judicious cuts on the stems. This brought the plants down to a height of around 10" - 13", resulting in a distance of about 30" - 34" from the lights. (28" - 33" recommended).

Because space is at a premium in this hut, I would have liked the plants to have been a tad shorter - but that's the way the mop flops.

They spent 7 Weeks in the 22 Oz. tumblers. I am confident that I could stretch that out to 8 Weeks if I were repressed. Doing so might include running on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle for some time.

In any case, they now continue on a 12/12 (LED/CLF) cycle. The plants showed some evidence of shock from the transplanting as exhibited by some minor leaf die-back in a few of the weaker leaves. Running the lights on a 24 Hr. CFL cycle for a day or two might have prevented this.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Following are photos of the Main Grow at 7 Weeks into the 12/12 (LED/Dark) flowering cycle.

You may notice that the two plants proximate to the heater exhibit less foliage. (See Post #2)

These plants resemble plants in my previous grows, in which there were fewer plants in the tent. I am guessing that these two plants are buffering the other plants from the conditions created by the heater. The 'protected' plants have more foliage and that seems to be helping the bud formation.

I thought I was 'seeing' more potential in this plant and I am looking forward to the harvest so that I can further evaluate things.

Here is a photo of the overall grow:

20170712_055312.jpg


Here is a detail:

20170712_060431.jpg


As for the Clones, I have sequestered the two plants that went through 'transplant shock' to the rear left (facing) of the Hut. And, yes, they exhibited somewhat more than "minor" leaf die-back.

As fundamental to my approach, I operate understanding that any horticultural operation has potential casualties. As a consequence I try to first ask what I can do to minimize those potentialities. Secondly, I try to work in numbers such that any casualties will not significantly effect the quality and/or quantity of the final product.

As I see things now, I should have run them on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle for several days after the transplanting. (A day or two of 24 Hr. CFL might be a good idea.) This will be standard practice for me now.

I almost got away with it (80%), but the mistake reminds me of my capacity to harbor less than a circumspect view of things.

I am keeping these plants in order to observe the plant's ability to rebound from this condition:

20170710_053242.jpg


The Clones have been on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle since Sunday 9-7-17. I have used this cycle before and it seems to work well - it slows the plant down while producing healthy new growth.

A stray thought: just how small can I grow this plant and still produce a viable crop. I suspect that the bud size, genetics aside, is more closely related to the root size and less closely related to the plant size (above ground). This plant gives me a lot to think about.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Notes on the Main Grow:

I could have named this Journal: "A Demonstration of the Effects of a Forced Air Heater on Plants in a 4'x4' Tent."

But we only come to understand ourselves retrospectively.

Today I might title it: "Consecutive Grows Demonstrating the Difference Between Forced Air Heater and Radiant Heater."

In any case, here is an overall photo of the Main Grow at 9 Weeks of flowering on a 12/12 cycle:

20170726_063023.jpg


I have the heater on 'swivel' and centered into the left front corner of the tent. By appearances, the hot, dry air flows along the two walls to the adjacent corners. In addition to this, the air seems to 'ricochet' out of the left, front corner, flowing toward the diagonal corner of the tent, being the right, rear corner.

The following three photos were were taken panning from left to right. I think they indicate the air flow.

20170726_063106.jpg
20170726_063118.jpg
20170726_063133.jpg


Here is a sample of trimmings. Other than the excessively dry air, I think they were compromised for not having large enough stems to support the growth.

20170721_175301.jpg


The clones I will flower using an Oil-Filled Radiant Heater. This may be a 'watershed' grow for me, and I am happy to be able to share it on 420.

If you think this tent setup is suspect, you should have seen my first grow (2014). I had 24 plants flowering in #1 Pots and a similar heater in the center, on a pedestal. I felt that I needed to maximize my plant numbers - and that was my solution.

Now that I have a plant that I think is worth perpetuating, I am focusing on maximizing the growing conditions.

As for the Clones, here they are at 3 Weeks in #1 Pots:
20170724_070351.jpg


The two plants that were traumatized during transplanting are gone. And this is just as well because I will only be able to flower 6 plants using a Radiant Heater, because of space constraints. In addition I can more easily run 2 CFLs with new space. And I still can grow 8 plants at this stage, meaning that I have 2 'extra' plants to 'experiment' on. (Espalier. etc.,...)

The Main Grow has produced 2 seeds, so far. I do not know what to expect from them. But I have seeds from a plant from my 5th Grow (2016) that I am very anxious to germinate. Smoking a joint from the mother of those seeds glazed the mouth with a resin that tasted like candy - and the flavor lasted a good while. Very pleasant, indeed.

I also have seeds from this plant and a male grown in my Grow #6 (2016). This male plant had such strong growth qualities that I Tried to clone it (unsuccessfully) for future grows. I wanted to keep Grow #6 seed free, but the plant, thankfully, flowered anyway. At present I have only two of these seeds.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

I have a twofold problem: firstly, too much dry hot air, and, secondly, too much water.

These two conditions seem to have contributed in creating an environment to the liking of fungus(?), which produced mottling on the stems - on the part of the stem drawing water and nutrients up to the flower. Here are two photos showing the result:





In my naivete I thought that I could offset the effects of the dry heat by giving the plants more water.

Some things seem to have to be learned from one's own experience.

A successful cloning of the crop is, or has been, to date, the most enjoyable part of the grow. At that time I know that I have another chance to 'get it right'.

I am grateful for all the good growers out there who show the rest of us that it is possible to grow fine plants. They have sustained my hope for a long time.

I feel that I am in the right neighborhood, but knocking on the wrong door.

I hope to redeem myself with the clones.

If you have not learned anything from this post, I hope you are amused.

I will be ready to germinate more seeds when I learn how to grow these plants to maturity.

Flittermouse.
 
Well written journal! I'm sorry you've ran into issues. Hope you're grow goes better in the future.
 
Hi,

I'll try to post the two photos mentioned in Post #7:


20170731_082101.jpg


20170801_073225.jpg


I hope that worked. As ugly as these photos are, I am happy to share them.

Events such as this deepen our intimacy with the plant. This plant does seem to create a lot of resin. Nipping the leaves with the thumb and forefinger leaves the hand good and stinky and stinky for a long while. This plant has potential and I am going to see it through to maturity.

My next significant maneuver will probably be to transplant the clones into #3 Pots, move them into the tent, along with the Veg Light,...

My primary concern is to time things so that I can find a radiant heater on sale before I start flowering. In any case, I only start flowering after the clones taken from the plants have rooted and have become viable. (About 10 Days to 2 Weeks) Cloning a plant in the flowering stage is a P I T A !!

Flittermouse.
 
Hi,

Here is an overall photo of the Main Grow at 11 Weeks on a 12/12 cycle:

20170809_082502.jpg


Some of the Buds are somewhat 'airy', but others are, although smallish, firm to dense. There are too many variables involved to attribute any one condition as the cause of a phenomenon - I feel that any one phenomenon is the result of a multiplicity of conditions working together.

Here are three photos of three buds:

20170809_083039.jpg

20170809_083125.jpg

20170809_083509.jpg


Although I am using potting soil with time-release nutrients, I think the plants would develop better if nutrients were added during the flowering stage. I thought about this earlier but decided to wait until I got a radiant heater.

Once I get the foundational conditions right then I can 'experiment' with nutrients, and other things, and be better able to see the results.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, here are the Clones @ 5 Weeks in #1 Pots:

20170807_185132.jpg


I have been trying to cut them back as much as I can - Leaving, generally, at least 2 Growth Nodes below each cut.

Roots are starting to protrude from the bottom.

They are about 12"-18", or so, and 28" or more from the light, with no signs of Leaf Bleaching. :)

The Main Grow will probably not come to much more than it has come to thus far - so moving the clone to the tent after harvest time will give them more room to grow.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Not much has changed since last week. Here are five photos of five flowers. The quality of the photos leaves a lot to be desired, but I try to make improvements as I go.

These buds are 'firm', but not quite 'dense'. This, in part, may be a function of the compromised stems. The last photo is interesting - I think it is a demonstration of the propensity of this plant to flower - even under adverse conditions.

The denser buds are typically on stems with a larger diameter, while the airy buds tend to be on weaker stems with a smaller diameter. When I flower the clones I will try to trim away most of the smaller stems - on the whole, they seem to take away more than they add.

I do think that if I do that trimming, and add nutrients during flowering, then the buds will turn out to be more dense than firm.

Even with stems compromised by fungus (?), and excessive evaporation, this plant does produce a leaf that burns slowly. I think this is a function of its resin content. I look forward to seeing the radiant heaters for sale. Hence, I have time to watch how long this plant will flower. Presently they are at 12 Weeks.

In any case, the buds:

20170816_110458.jpg

20170816_110610.jpg

20170816_110634.jpg

20170816_111050.jpg

20170816_111118.jpg


NOTES on the CLONES

I think the clones would like to move into #3 pots, but they will be OK as they are. They look about the same as in Post #10. They are at least 26" from the lights and still on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle. I will let one or two plants grow until the leaves get bleached. This way I will have a positive indication of just how tall I can grow these plants in the Hut - one less thing to worry about.

The branching is getting a little 'thin' down low. They really do need more space to grow. I don't like to treat them this way, but I only have two tents. Maybe I should seriously think about acquiring a third. (I have already thought about it not-so-seriously.) (Perhaps when I get this plant to bud the way I think it will bud.)


Flittermouse
 
Hi,

I continue to flower the main grow, even though the plants are seriously compromised. I do this with the hope of gaining a better understanding of what I might reasonably expect in Grow #8 (Clones).

Here are four photos of a few of the better buds. The last two photos may be of the same cluster, but they are representative of the hand-full of better buds in the clutch. Notice the contrast between these buds and the traumatized buds in the rear.

This will be a demonstration of what this plant is capable of producing in the wake of trauma:



I will continue flowering on a 12/12 cycle and try to pay attention to minute detail.


Notes on the Clones:

They have 'filled out' a little since Post #10 - lots of thin growth down low and in the middle.

I have not been pinching them back so much, recently, and they are at least 23" from the Veg light with no signs of leaf burn. I'm not sure why I am so concerned about leaf burn, other than it is a drag when that happens. I do not recall that I have had any troubles of that nature with this plant - so far.

My main concern is that they will produce a good crop of choice stems to clone. And, in harvesting those stems, the crop of flowers will not be compromised - and, hopefully, improved.

I am trying to stretch out time while I wait for the oil-filled space heaters to become available, locally. The 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle slows them down quite a bit, while producing healthy new growth.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Lets see if I can get those photos up :

20170830_094535.jpg


20170830_095251.jpg


20170830_100040.jpg


20170830_100245.jpg


I hope this works - I will be happy when I "get the hang of"this. My apologies.

I hope your own grows are going well, and that they make you happy. This is one fascinating plant.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

The Main Grow is harvested. Post's #12 and #13 constitute the end of my Grow #7. I will try to apply what I have learned in that Grow to Grow #8.

Here are the Clones (from Grow #7) in #1 Pots, in the Hut. They have been in #1 Pots for 9 Weeks and 5 Days. (I think I was hoping to get 8 Weeks out of those pots.) (Post #3 says I got 7 Weeks out of the 22 Oz. Tumblers.) In any case, here are the clones, looking a little cramped for space, in the Hut:

20170906_082929.jpg


Here are the same eight plants, in #1 Pots, In the Tent:

20170906_095617.jpg



I transplanted six of them Into #3 Pots on 9/9/17. They were not as pot bound as I thought they would be:

20170909_114610.jpg


Here are the eight plants in the Tent. The two plants in #1 pots are to the front, left of the Tent (facing).

20170909_131123.jpg


This is the beginning of my Grow #8. My approach, at this point, historically, would be to take the best looking stems - typically about three good, strong stems per plant, +/- - and cut them back to the top most growth node - in effect, doubling the number of stems.

In Post #5, near the end, I commented on the size of the root mass, suspecting that root size had a lot to do with bud size.

In Post #11, near the top, I commented on stem size (diameter) and its apparent relation to bud size.

I now understand the stems as 'Nutrient Straws'. By cutting the stems back, in the past, I now understand that the emerging stems did not have time enough to grow into mature and viable 'Nutrient Straws'.

My approach, in this Grow #8, will be to leave the good, strong, stems alone and cut away most of the smaller stems.

The stock for the clones will be harvested from the two plants in #1 Pots (front, left). With these two plants and the small stems from the others, I will cut 18 stems for cloning. I need 6 plants to fill the tent, so I will need to be able to be 30% successful. I 'should' be more successful, but, if I am, I will have plants from which to choose the better specimens.

I kept the plants on an 8/16 cycle (LED/CFL) for 4 Days and then switched to a 12/12 cycle (LED/CFL). I moved the Veg Light into the tent, along with the plants. I took my cuttings last time during this 12/12 cycle and it worked well - so I will do the same this time.

I will bring back the two Bud Lights before I flower and run them for awhile on an 18/6 cycle (LED/CFL).

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Notes on the Main Grow:

I could have named this Journal: "A Demonstration of the Effects of a Forced Air Heater on Plants in a 4'x4' Tent."

But we only come to understand ourselves retrospectively.

Today I might title it: "Consecutive Grows Demonstrating the Difference Between Forced Air Heater and Radiant Heater."

In any case, here is an overall photo of the Main Grow at 9 Weeks of flowering on a 12/12 cycle:

20170726_063023.jpg


I have the heater on 'swivel' and centered into the left front corner of the tent. By appearances, the hot, dry air flows along the two walls to the adjacent corners. In addition to this, the air seems to 'ricochet' out of the left, front corner, flowing toward the diagonal corner of the tent, being the right, rear corner.

The following three photos were were taken panning from left to right. I think they indicate the air flow.

20170726_063106.jpg
20170726_063118.jpg
20170726_063133.jpg


Here is a sample of trimmings. Other than the excessively dry air, I think they were compromised for not having large enough stems to support the growth.

20170721_175301.jpg


The clones I will flower using an Oil-Filled Radiant Heater. This may be a 'watershed' grow for me, and I am happy to be able to share it on 420.

If you think this tent setup is suspect, you should have seen my first grow (2014). I had 24 plants flowering in #1 Pots and a similar heater in the center, on a pedestal. I felt that I needed to maximize my plant numbers - and that was my solution.

Now that I have a plant that I think is worth perpetuating, I am focusing on maximizing the growing conditions.

As for the Clones, here they are at 3 Weeks in #1 Pots:
20170724_070351.jpg


The two plants that were traumatized during transplanting are gone. And this is just as well because I will only be able to flower 6 plants using a Radiant Heater, because of space constraints. In addition I can more easily run 2 CFLs with new space. And I still can grow 8 plants at this stage, meaning that I have 2 'extra' plants to 'experiment' on. (Espalier. etc.,...)

The Main Grow has produced 2 seeds, so far. I do not know what to expect from them. But I have seeds from a plant from my 5th Grow (2016) that I am very anxious to germinate. Smoking a joint from the mother of those seeds glazed the mouth with a resin that tasted like candy - and the flavor lasted a good while. Very pleasant, indeed.

I also have seeds from this plant and a male grown in my Grow #6 (2016). This male plant had such strong growth qualities that I Tried to clone it (unsuccessfully) for future grows. I wanted to keep Grow #6 seed free, but the plant, thankfully, flowered anyway. At present I have only two of these seeds.

Flittermouse
Those pics look like bud rot, what was your humidity?
 
Hi,

CORRECTION: In yesterday's Post #14, I said that my usual way of pruning, at this juncture, was to 'cut back to the upper most growth node'.

Well, what I should have written is something like the following:
Historically, at this juncture, I would have taken cuttings (for the clones) from the better branches of the plant. Typically I would take a length of the tip of a good branch, about the length of my forefinger (3+"), making sure there are at least 2 or 3 growth nodes above and move downward to the next growth node with 2 shoots.

This would leave me with a cutting 3.5" to 6" long, say, and having 2 or 3 growth nodes on it. I trim all of the fan leaves of the cutting, cut them to size, stick them in a glass of water for a drink, then stick them in re-hydrated peat pellets.

I take the cuttings when the stem has ridges on it but is still green - and has not started to turn brownish. The stems at this point have an unmistakable 'feel' to them.

In my Grow #8 I will not harvest clones from these better branches, but leave them to bear fruit.

I will post my proceedings on this operation when it is time.

As to the look of 'Bud Rot', yes - it looks like 'Bud Rot'.

It is not the white 'Mildew' which can turn the bud to mush, and impart a tangy flavor. I had this 'Mildew'(?) in my first grow. This necessitated the acquisition of the forced air heater. If the temperature is kept above 70 Deg F the mildew can not live.

The buds are still smoke-able, (the buds from Grow #7), but have lost some of that beautiful sweet taste one gets from the first hit off the vaporizer.

Take a look at the photo on Post #6. The blotching of the stem happened after I began over-watering. Typically I would water when the top of the soil would start to get dry. I would water until this top soil got re-hydrated. In Grow #7 I watered, regularly, until water started to leak out of the drain holes.

While I do not have a hydrometer, the humidity was probably fairly high. This was probably the main fault of the grow, but the forced air heater will tend to dry the plants and compromise them further.

I am not advanced enough in my growing to be giving out sound and reliable advice. I am tending this journal so that the growing world can see my mistakes, understand them, and be able to recognize them or avoid them.

The forced air heater works in a pinch, and it might not be a bad thing to have as a backup. The lower cost makes it a good starter model.

I will continue using the forced air heater in the Clone Hut, with the clones, because it moves the air around. Circulating air is a good thing. My clone setup is a little complicated, but has worked well so far. I will get into the details when it happens.

Thank you for listening. I hope you are amused and, or, enlightened.

Don't take my word for it - find out for yourself.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

I took all my cuttings, as described in Post #16. I was able to take 19 cuttings from the two extra plants I kept in #1 Pots.

I could have taken them from the lower branches of the other six plants, but those two gave me fine options. I took the cuttings in three lifts, three days apart. I noticed that branch tips that I was hesitant about cutting, for immaturity, would be ready to cut in three days.

In any case, I was able to root and plant 15 of 19 cuttings (78%). This compares with 10 of 18 (55%) on the previous try. The one thing I can say, without hesitation, about cloning, is that it is like walking on glass. (You may have heard this before, and you are likely to hear it again.) There is an element of luck involved, but each cloning is only practice for the next one, and I have found that the more I practice, the luckier I get.

Here is the Inside of the Hut:

20170929_080945.jpg


The laundry bin has a level top rim and a section of a light disperser (as found in light fixtures) sits flush on the top, textured side down. The pebbled texture allows air to flow out of the bin.

The forced air heater works well, in this instance. It is adjustable to 1 Deg F. I set this between 75 Deg F and 83 Deg F. I also drape a large polyester quilt over the whole Hut and keep outside (room) temperature at 55 Deg F or higher.

Inside the bin I have a layer of 3/8" polystyrene insulation on top of which I put the seedling heat mat, set at 83 Deg F with a thermostat. On the mat I put the pellet trays. I stuff paper towels around the whole nine yards to help absorb any standing water. These I might replace once or twice during the whole operation. Once or twice daily I will wipe condensed water off the sides of the bin. This is a P I T A but it is therapeutic. Water will condense on the lid and drip back down.

Here is the inside of the bin:

20170929_081101.jpg


They took 11 Days to 15 Days to root:

20171006_090719.jpg


I found 10 Oz. clear plastic cups, measuring 2" across the bottom, 3" across the top, and 4" deep. This is a significant improvement over what I had been using. I put the cover on the bin and use insulation to protect the plants from the heater:

20171006_090824.jpg


Here are the 15 clones, which are my Grow #9 in its infancy:

20171009_043132.jpg



I like the synchronicity between the main grow and the cloning. I was able to start the 12/12 (LED/Dark) flower cycle 13 Days after taking my last cuttings. This compares with 45 Days on the previous grow.

My baseline timing is something like this:
22 Oz. cups - 7 Weeks
#1 Pots - 9 Weeks
#3 Pots - 4 Weeks until begin flower

I used a lot of the 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle to determine this timeline, and I am not sure if I could, or would want to, go much slower. I think these plants need AT LEAST 8 Hours of full sunlight per day.

On this grow I ran the full spectrum lights on an 18/6 (LED/CFL) cycle for 9 Days before running the 12/12 flower cycle. This compares with 11 Days on my previous grow. This came to my attention after the fact. I was eyeballing it, both times - I was waiting until the plants looked like they were growing at full tilt. I guess this takes a little short of 2 Weeks, in this instance.

I will get into more detail about the main grow in my next post. (2 of 3 Days, or so (?)).

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

NOTES ON THE CLONES:

You may have noticed that I had more than 19 cuttings in the photo in Post #17. This is because I took 7 'experimental' cuts - three in the second lift and four in the third lift. These 'experimental' cuts were made further down the branch after the tips had been cut.

I was able to root one of seven and then lost interest in them and so abandoned them. They were all still green and upright when I abandoned them so I assume they were still alive.

If you look closely you may be able to identify them - the four on the third lift are all on the left side. I did not factor them into the statistics.

The 19th cutting is accounted for by the fact that I got a little 'aggressive' on the first lift and cut 7, instead of six, before I had realized it.

As for the Main Grow, here are the plants at the end of the 12/12 (LED/CFL) cycle, run under one Veg Light centered in the tent, and the beginning of the 18/6 (LED/CFL) cycle, run under two full spectrum lights, one centered over the back half of the tent and one centered over the front right quadrant:

20170929_082211.jpg


I left the two plants in #1 Pots in the tent until all the clones were planted. This was in observance of 'the first rule of wing-walking': Never let go of one hand hold until you have a firm hand grasp on another. I know I had the lower, thinner branches of the other six plants, but this is another way I challenge myself, manufacture pressure on myself.

I pruned the lower branches of the main six, and this is the result:

20171003_064604.jpg


Here is another view, with the new oil-filled radiant heater:

20171003_065011.jpg



During the 18/6 cycle I arranged the plants so that the taller parts of the plant were outside the light 'footprint', or, if you will, the light print of the lights. This is mostly in the corners:

20171006_101358.jpg


Here are the plants at the beginning of the 12/12 (LED/DARK) flowering cycle. I slightly rearranged the plants so that the taller and stronger stems were in the light print:

20171009_042106.jpg


I could add a third light - two, side-by-side, centered over the back half, and one centered over the front right quadrant - but I feel it is not necessary.

Minimum distance to the light, from the plant is 11". This is OK. I still have 8" above the yo-yo s .

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

The Oil-Filled Radiant Heater is working fine. The thermostat can be set at 5 Deg F intervals. I use an 'instant-read' cooking thermometer plunged into the soil, as a check, and this reads about 72.5 Deg +/- F when the heater is set at 70 Deg F, on 'Economy' setting.

The #3 Pots start to dry out evenly, unlike the Ceramic Forced Air Heater; the Ceramic Heater tended to dry the pots closest to the heater.

The Oil Heater and the Ceramic heater both run a 1,500 Watts.

I let the plants grow toward the lights until they showed signs of stress. This happened when one plant got to about 1" from the light. Spots appeared on the leaf that are consistent with spots from ordinary leaf die-back, but leaf die-back commonly occurs on larger, older leaves. Other leaves around the affected leaves showed no signs of stress. To be cautious I spun the pot around 180 Deg and tucked the stem between other stems so that it drooped toward the other light and gained another 5" of space.

This is just as well - I can easily keep the buds 1" from the light, and I don't have to worry about the bud resin soiling the glass on the lights.

Here are two photos of the leaf spot:

20171018_050630.jpg

20171018_050847.jpg


Correction of the Clone Statistics:

I abandoned 3 of the fifteen clones because they were not viable. So, my final tally is 12 of 19 (63%), not 15 of 19 (78%). I thought 78% was a little high.

Here are the clones, 12 in number, with a new Infra Red Quartz Heater:

20171015_134415.jpg


Actually, there are 13 plants in this photo - the second plant from the lower right was abandoned. (Notice the yellow color.)

The heater purrs along at 1000 watts, on "Economy" setting. This setting keeps the hut at about 68 Deg F in an efficient way. The cooking thermometer plunged into the soil confirms this, (plus or minus a degree (F) or two).

The thermostat is adjustable to 1 Deg F, but I am happy with 68 Deg F. To use this heater during flowering, it will probably need to be set on "High" setting, and at a higher temperature, in which case it runs at 1,500 watts.

The word is that IR Quartz heaters do not dry the air as much as forced air heaters, and this seems to me to be true.

The clear plastic cups are quite an advancement as the roots can be seen as they develop. I drilled one drain hole in the bottom of each cup.

Flittermouse
 
Hi,

Here are the Clones, two Days short of 3-4 Weeks in 10 Oz. Cups. (4 Weeks for lift 1, and 3 Weeks for lift 3.)

I have had them on an 8/16 (LED/CFL) cycle. I figure this is a good time to slow its growth down; the plant being in its infancy. The clear plastic 10 Oz. cups are very good in that they allow a clear view of the roots - no guessing.

The larger clones, from lift 1, I nipped back 'hard' yesterday - nipped the stems to above 2 or 3 green shoots at growth nodes. Of these 6 plants, 3 plants look to have 3 healthy shoots, while 3 plants look to have 2 healthy shoots, with a third 'on the edge'.

When these shoots develop into leaves I will transplant them into the 22 Oz. Tumblers. Last Grow, the one that 'failed', I had the clones in 10 Oz. Cups for 17-21 Days. In that Grow I ran them on a 12/12 (LED/CFL) cycle. I think the present 8/16 (LED/CFL) stretched the time line another week. (1/3 less light, 1/3 longer time ?).

In any case, here are the 12 Clones:

20171027_051840.jpg


The IR-Quartz heater works 'like a champ'. I feel that I am using less water.

I will continue to use the Ceramic Forced Air heater for cloning, though. The air in the hut needs to be dry and hot in order to draw air and moisture out of the bin. It sounds good in theory and works well in practice.

As for the Main Grow, I clipped the lower, thinner branches off, supported the larger, main stems with bamboo, and removed the Yo-Yos from the lights. The lights now hang from the rafters. As it worked out, all of the potentially good buds are within 1'-2.5' from the lights. For some time they were growing at a rate of about 1"/Day. I am comfortable with this distance as they are close to the optimal distance from the light. The bamboo rods keep the potential buds in the 'light print'.

Here are the 6 main plants at 2 Weeks of flowering (12/12) (LED/Dark):

20171022_045816.jpg


The Oil-Filled Radiant heater, also, works 'like a charm'. The #3 Pots dry out very evenly. I am very impressed with the engineering reflected in these heaters, not to mention the lights.

Flittermouse
 
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