Use of Predator Mites for Red Spider Mite Control

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Here is a list of predatory mites that are currently available online. I personally have used Phytoseiulus persimilis myself and found them somewhat effective. The trick is to introduce them in large numbers dispersed around your plants, as soon as you spot mites. You must not use Neem oil or pyrethrum while your predator mites are active. Phytoseiulus persimilis can be seen quite easily by the naked eye. They are bright red and move quickly. One hassle with them is that they get on your arms as you tend your plants and the little suckers bite you leaving tiny weals.

Phytoseiulus persimilis.
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This bright orange predator is native to the tropics of South America. It does best in a humid environment of 60 to 90% relative humidity. Does best where tempertures remain below 90 degrees F. Persimilis is sensitive to high tempertures and low relative humidity. A humidity of 60% or lower has a negative effet on the hatching of the eggs and the development of Persimilis. If spider mite problems occur in a hot and dry environment, Longipes or Californicus will provide better control than Persimilis. Persimilis can reduce spider mite population to very low numbers in two to three weeks. Since Persimilis are faster and stronger than their prey they easily catch and eat them. When released they smell their prey, then move quickly throughout the plant. Persimilis work best from tempertures of 50 t0 90 degrees F. They then die from lack of food. In situations where the pest reinfest the plants, we suggest introducing persimilis every 3 to 5 weeks or introducing either Occidentalis or Californicus in combination with Persimilis.

Galendromus occidentalis
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is a very versatile mite predator and tolerates high temperatures low and high humidity (40-85%) well, both indoors and out. Does best in warm weather (80° to 110° F). Tolerates low humidity of inland valleys. Does not do well in cool coastal areas. Goes into diapause (hibernation) in colder temperatures. Recommended for greenhouses only if plants are maintained as low as 40% relative humidity. It is native to California and has ben researched for spider mite control in almonds, grapes, and many other ornamentals and plants. This predator is well adapted for outdoor use and can perform in hot situations where humidity remains above 40%. Use G. occidentalis to control spider mites, two spotted mites, Russet mites, and others on gardens, greenhouses, and orchards of all types. Adults eat 1-3 pest adults or up to 6 pest eggs/day. Release rates indoors, 2-3/sq. ft. bi-weekly, 1-2 applications; outdoors, 5,000-20,000/acre, bi-weekly, 1-2 applications.

Neoseiulus californicus
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predatory mites consume their prey at a more leisurely pace than do their friends Mesoseiulus longipes and Phytoseiulus persimilis, one adult or a few eggs per day, they can survive longer under starvation conditions and can also live on a diet of pollen. In plants where it is very hard to detect the first spider mites, Californicus may be introduced preventatively, Completes a generation in one to two weeks depending on temperature (12 days at 64º F, 4 days at 90º F). The female lays about 3 eggs per day for two weeks and lives about 20 days. At 77º F the female can consume 5.3 spidermite eggs per day. Does best in warm humid conditions, but will also tolerate low humidity (40% - 80% RH at 50° - 105°F). Occurs along coast and inland valleys of California. PESTICIDES: Susceptible to pesticides. Avoid using any pesticide one week prior or one week after releasing predators. STORAGE: Highly perishable, should be used immediately upon delivery. If storage is absolutely necessary, refrigerate at 40°-50° F. (6°-10° C). Not to exceed 3 days, to minimize mortality. They are not canabalistic and survive shipping very well. Release 1 - 4 per plant or 1 - 2 per square foot in greenhouses at the first sign of spidermites. Use 10,000 per acre in field. Later releases will require much higher numbers to be effective. Releases of californicus can be made when Spider mites are present and laying eggs. even if no spider mites have been found yet. N. californicus need a minimum of 40% humidity and ideal temperatures 60-90 degrees F. Can tolerate temperatures up to 105 degrees F. Works great in gardens and greenhouses.

Mesoseiulus longipes
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is similar to P. persimilis but can tolerate lower humidity 40% at 70 degrees F. but requires higher humidity as tempertures increase. M. longipes are effective in temperatures up to 100 degrees F, although a comparable increase in humidity is required. Apply these predators in warm greenhouses and interiorscapes with artificial lighting. The lifespan of the adults, the form in which they are shipped, is 34 days. Release rates indoors, 3/sq. ft. bi-weekly, 1-2 times; outdoors, 5,000-20,000/acre, bi-weekly, 1-2 times.

A spider mite web may be so small it is only seen under a magnifying lens, a microscope or Macro lens.
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The following spider-mite images were contributed by: Squilly

The Collective:
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Close up:
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The eggs:
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Im getting some predator mites today and was wondering what about the mites that have ventured from my grow room. I noticed mites on my buds as I was trimming them on my bed, after a closer look they were crawling all over the trays I was useing. So now they are in my bedroom. Will they just die out or will they feed junk on my bed? Also what should be done with the drying boxes I used? Should I throw all of them away?
 
Very nice work thanx Ive used all predators you listed and more lace wing was the most fun for me. Longipes like my enviorment best I love my pet predators
 
ive used phyto persimilis, Orius Vicinus and Amblyseius Cucumeris quite extensively over the years and find them GREAT, ESPECIALLY when you introduce them into your pest control schedule as part of a preventative measure. the one thing i loved about Phyto pers is they have a tendency to cannibalize each other once their foodsources(=two spotted mites) have disappeared.
I have used these by the thousands in my larger commercial grows over the years and consider them an indispensable part of any commercial grow pest schedule, 'Phyto Pers', 'Orius Vicinus' (Orius predates on quite a large variety of prey including thrips, aphids, white fly, mites(including spider mites), psyllids and larvae of larger insects like moths and butterflies) and 'Amblyseius Cucumeris'(highly active predator of thrips especially but eat two spotted mites also) make quite a comprehensive pest control measure and i would recommend them to anyone who have mite issues currently or merely as a preventative measure.
 
I detected Red Spider Mites in my 4 week indoor flower room. I first sprayed with Pyrithrium. Two days later I used a Liquid Organic Concentrate a few drops in water and sprayed all the leaves and buds. I then bought some Preadator Mites from my local Hydro Store and spread them around both in the flower room and next door in my Veg room as a precaution. I am not sure what variety I bought but will look for the invoice tomorrow or call the Hydro store and ask them. I bought a vial with 1,000 predator mites in it.
There are lots of little buggers running around the plants.
I am wondering now how to tell if the Spider Mites are still there or what I am seeing is the Predator Mites and their offspring? I do not have a camera that will get that close up of a photo of them. I am now seven weeks into flowering 10 GDP's. What should I do at this point? Thanks, Joe
 
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