Basic Tips and Information For Indoor Marijuana Cultivators:
Key Components of Plant life:
-Light
-Atmosphere
-Temperature
-Humidity
-Air Movement
-Nutrients
LIGHT
Light is obviously extremely important in the growing of any plant. In reality plants grab the energy from the suns light and transfer that through photosynthesis into energy for the plant. Inside however we must create an "artificial sun" by the use of electric lights. I will only go into fluorescents (including compact fluorescents) and HID lighting because I feel that any other light source is not worth having.
-Fluorescents: Recent advancement in technology has allowed fluorescents to emit enough lumens (particles of light over one sq. foot) to grow indoors, even to maturity. Fluorescents come in two categories: Compact and Tube. Compact fluorescents are just that...compact, usually having smaller tubes that spiral or loop up and down. Tubes are also just that, the long tubes that everyone is use to seeing in any public building. I have not used compact fluorescents, as I am partial to tubes. I personally use AGRO Sun grow tubes because my local Hydroponics store always carries them however there are many products available on the market today from companies like Phillips and Agrobrite. Some advantages of fluorescents include: low cost, low heat, less wattage, more compact. Some disadvantages include: less light output therefore more fluorescents are needed to produce larger plants.
-HID Lights: HID stands for High Intensity Discharge Lights. These lights are able to put out a much more substantial amount of light than fluorescents (one 400watt HPS or MH can produce around 40,000 initial lumens compared to a single tube that can produce around 5,000) but are more costly. They consist of a HID bulb (commonly high pressure sodium or metal halide bulbs) ballast, and your fixture. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLACE A HID LIGHT INTO A NORMAL LIGHTING FIXTURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLACE A METAL HALIDE LIGHT INTO A FIXTURE SUITABLE FOR ONLY A HIGH PRESSURE SODIUM, AND VICE VERSA. You can purchase these lights from numerous companies such as Hydrofarm, Growzilla, or AGRO Sun. These are the lights you will see larger growers or serious growers using. Some advantages of HID Lights: More light output, Larger grow area, More yield. Some disadvantages: Costly, high wattage, can get rather hot, must have a decent space.
Lighting Conclusion: As a key element of plant life you should definitely put some time and thought into which type of light source will work best for you. What is your budget? How large is your grow room? Do you have ventilation to pull away heat? Is your room so cool that you do not get enough heat? How long have you been growing? I would personally recommend a beginner to start out with fluorescents because of the lesser cost and less experience needed. As you improve in the fine art of marijuana cultivation invest in a HID and transfer your fluorescents into a veg room and separate your flowering plants from your vegetative plants.
NOTE: Light behaves as a particle and a wave. The increase in wavelength (nm) means less frequency, which translates into less energy. Now think about a lighter, which I am sure you use all the time to smoke your bud. The top of the flame where the energy is less is orange and the lower part of the flame is white or blue where the most amount of heat or energy is. This holds true to light. Increase wavelength translates into less energy that then translates into a "warm" color of reds and oranges. A decrease in wavelength translates to higher energy that then translates into a "cool" color of whitish blue. Now think back to the lighter again, the lower blue is hotter and the higher orange is cooler. Lights have color temperature measured in Kelvin. The higher the temperature the "cooler" the color and the lower the temperature the "warmer" the color. Plants love high-energy light during vegetative state when it’s trying to grow. This mimics the intense summer sun. Plants love lower energy light during the flowering season when it is trying to flower. This mimics the less intense sun of autumn. Use a higher color temperature during vegetative growth and use a lower color temperature during flowering.
Lighting Application: Now that you have decided on which light to use you will need to know how to use them. Things you are going to need are available electricity, adjustable hanging devices (get creative), and some sort of a timer device. Hang your lights as close as possible to the top of the plant without damaging it. A good way to test this is to place your hand about the top of your plant for a minute or so. If the heat of light is uncomfortably hot on your hand then the light is way too close.
-Plants work in two basic cycles: Vegetative and Flowering
-Vegetative cycle is the time from when your little ladies get their first set of actual leaves to the time you decide to flower them (unless the strain is auto flowering). In reality the vegetative cycle is during the late spring months through summer when the days are longer. During seedling to early vegetative I would run your lights a constant 24 hours. Once a few weeks old whip out your trusty light timer and set it on 18/6 (18 hours on light 6 hours off). This will give your vegging plants the amount of light/rest they need.
-Flowering Cycle: Once you decide to flower your plants you will need to "trick" them into thinking it is autumn when the days are shorter. To do this go back to the trusty timer and set it to 12/12 (12 hours on 12 hours off).
Atmosphere
-Temperature: The temperature of your growing area effects how your plants will grow. Too hot and they will burn up, too cold and they will freeze to death. Indoors we can control the temperature, outside we cant. To control the temperature ventilation can be installed (fans, blowers, ducting). An ideal growing temperature would be low to mid 70s to low 80s (°F)
- Humidity: Not quite as important as temperature but a factor nonetheless. Massive humidity and your plants will mold during their flowering and ruin your crop. Too dry and your plants will lose their moisture to the dry air. A humidity of around 40-45% is fine usually higher humidity is better in vegetative state and slightly dryer during the flowering state. Hydrometers measure this and can be bought at any home improvement store/aquarium store.
- Air movement: If you have a closet or a confined space odds are you will have excess heat. To remove that heat you will use ventilation. On top of the removal of heat ventilation moves away O2 from the plant and moves in CO2 for the plant to take in. Air movement is an important part of your grow area.
Nutrients
Ever heard you are what you eat? Well guess what it works for plants too. What you give the plant to take in will determine if you burn your roots, if your plant doubles in size and exceeds expected yields, or if it has droopy leaves filled with water. What type of nutrients you give your plant will be determined on what type of medium you are using. Two major ways of growing plants are by Soil or by Hydroponics.
NOTE: Hydroponics is a method of growing using water. Aeroponics, Drip Hydroponics, Flood and Drain and many others are different types of hydroponics applications.
-Hydroponic nutrients: Hydroponic nutrients are basically the same as soil nutrients, just formulated to work better with water and no soil. Nutrients are normally rated according to Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potash (K2O). Bonus's of hydroponics is the ability to play with virtually every aspect of the growing process. If you are going to use hydroponics make sure to include some sort of enzyme(sensizyme or hydrozyme), a metabolism booster (Liquid Karma), an ant disease solution (hydroguard), along with your basic nutes.
-Soil Nutrients: Less intense versions of hydroponic nutrients, usually less acidic. Nutrients are normally rated according to Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potash (K2O)
NOTE: some nutrients can be used in hydroponic and soil applications.
-Recommended nutrients and how to use them:
Some nutrients are synthetically produced, other are made by totally organic products. Some people love organic, some people love synthetic. I don't think there is a better or worse and I use different products that contain a little of both sides of the spectrum. One highly esteemed mainly synthetic nutrient manufacturer is Advanced Nutrients (based out of Canada) and another high esteemed organic nutrient manufacturer is Botanicare. I use a mixture of both in my hydroponic set up and use only Bontanicare in my soil set up. Whether you use organic or synthetic they both require the same things.
NOTE: Some nutrient manufacturers use combinations of Synthetic and Organic nutrients. Advanced Nutrients uses both however I consider it more synthetic.
Nutrient Listing:
Vegetative State:
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro: Excellent organic nutrient. Comes in Pure Blend Grow(suitable for both soil and hydroponics)
Advanced Nutrients SensiGrow: Excellent mainly synthetic nutrient. Comes in two parts that are mixed A and B. Even developed to do better in full sativa plants (ST) and for indica plants (IN) and also hybrids (STIN)
Flowering State:
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro: Excellent organic nutrient. Comes in Pure Blend Bloom (made in two different variations, one for hydroponics, one for soil)
Advanced Nutrients SensiBloom: Excellent mainly synthetic nutrient. Comes in two parts (A and B) that are mixed to desired level. Even developed to do better in full sativa plants (ST) and for indica plants (IN) and also hybrids (STIN)
--These are just two products in a huge industry. People have favorites and some people think some nutrients work better. This is just a starting point. Play around and see what works best for you after all, it will be YOUR smoke when you get done.--
THE LIFE CYCLE OF MARIJUANA:
Germination- many methods out there. Good seeds produce good bud. Bad seeds produce bad bud. I’m not going to go into germination techniques however if you place a seed in soil usually it will take as well as moist peat pellets or equivalent.
Seedling- Once your seed pops and roots form you have a seedling.
Vegetative- Once you have a set of leaves you have a vegging marijuana plant.
Flowering-Once you start your 12/12 you have a flowering marijuana plant.
DRYING AND SMOKIN- Yeah, the best part, you know what to do.
BEGINNERS DOS AND DONTS
DO READ THE BACK OF THE CONTAINER TO FIND THE APPROPRIATE APPLICATION: Every nutrient is different and how to apply them is also different. If you are unsure about how much to use or what to use ALWAYS ERROR ON THE SIDE OF CAUTION. If you under fertilize then you will loose a little yield but if you over do it you can loose everything.
DO CHECK YOUR PH REGULARLY: The PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is 1 being highly acidic, 14 being highly alkaline, and 7 being neutral. If you are growing hydro you want around a 5.5- 5.9PH and if you are in the soil you will want around a 6 to 6.5 PH. You can check you PH by buying a simple PH test kit at any gardening supply store.
DO NOT OVERWATER YOUR PLANTS (Soil growing only): One common mistake in new growers is thinking the plant needs more water than it does. A good way to know how much water to give your plant is to lift the container. If it feels really heavy odds are there is a lot of water. If it’s really light then you know you have little to no water. What you want is to lift it and feel weight around 1/4 of the bottom of the container
DO NOT UNDERWATER YOUR PLANTS (Soil growing only): People who think they are over watering all the time tend to underwater. As stated above if you pick up your container and it is really light you should add water. When watering your plant be sure to let water drain out of the bottom so the roots don’t try to grow upwards.
DO PLACE AN AIR STONE IN YOUR HYDROPONIC RESEVIOR: Air stones lie in your reservoir and attach to an air pump which pumps air into your water. Its mainly common knowledge that plants take in CO2 and release O2. For the roots it is the exact opposite. Roots love O2 so the more of it at your roots the better.
DO MAINTAIN A CONSISTANT LIGHT, HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE: Plants love regular patterns of light, humidity, and temperature. A light timer guarantees normal and consistent light patterns. Obviously at night when your lights go off the temperature will drop, this is normal. What you want to check is to make sure your night temperature is consistent with other night temperatures and that your day temperatures are consistent with your other day temperatures. One tip for this is to have your temperature probe inside of your grow area and the display outside of your grow area so you can check the temperature at night without disturbing its sleep cycle. There are also thermometers that can measure daytime highs and lows.
DO SPEND TIME CHECKING YOUR PLANTS DAILY: If you don't spend time with your plants then your plants have a higher chance of failing. Checking PH, Temp, Light, and just overall health are an important part of your growing process. Just give your plant some tender loving care and it should turn out fine. BEWARE of dropping or dead leaves, this could be the start of more serious problems. BEWARE of mite and insects. BEWARE of mold and fungus. BEWARE of open cuts in your plant, this opens it for infection.
DO CLEAN YOUR HYDROPONIC RESEVIOR REGULARLY: You resevior will collect minerals and nutrient deposists as well as slime and algae. Cleaning your resevior and changing the water regularly will prevent this. Also if you have a water pump in your resevior make sure you remove the filter and clean any nutrient or minerals in there as well.
DO TRANSPLANT YOUR PLANT: A big mistake is having a container too small for your plant. Be sure to transplant as it grows. I usually start in a solo cup and move into a five gallon bucket to finish its life out. Be sure to loosen the root ball when you are transplanting.
DO SMOKE AND SPEND TIME WITH YOUR PLANTS: A: its cool to hang out with your lovely ladies B: you will notice problems if they come and C: you will produce CO2 for your plant to take in.
DO CLONE YOUR PLANTS: Cloning will give you an EXACT replica of your mother plant. This isn't the easiest process so search the forums and do some research.
DO LOOK AT 420MAGAZINE GROW JOURNALS: If you are thinking it, odds are its already been thought, tested, and done. If you want to know how to start germination look at a nice grow journal. If you don't like that technique then move to another one. If you can't figure out the right nutrient solution, look at someone else’s who has had success and try to improve.
I HOPE THIS INFORMATION WILL HELP YOU GUYS--FEEL FREE TO ADD TO/CORRECT ME IF YOU SEE ANYTHING
Sedo out
Key Components of Plant life:
-Light
-Atmosphere
-Temperature
-Humidity
-Air Movement
-Nutrients
LIGHT
Light is obviously extremely important in the growing of any plant. In reality plants grab the energy from the suns light and transfer that through photosynthesis into energy for the plant. Inside however we must create an "artificial sun" by the use of electric lights. I will only go into fluorescents (including compact fluorescents) and HID lighting because I feel that any other light source is not worth having.
-Fluorescents: Recent advancement in technology has allowed fluorescents to emit enough lumens (particles of light over one sq. foot) to grow indoors, even to maturity. Fluorescents come in two categories: Compact and Tube. Compact fluorescents are just that...compact, usually having smaller tubes that spiral or loop up and down. Tubes are also just that, the long tubes that everyone is use to seeing in any public building. I have not used compact fluorescents, as I am partial to tubes. I personally use AGRO Sun grow tubes because my local Hydroponics store always carries them however there are many products available on the market today from companies like Phillips and Agrobrite. Some advantages of fluorescents include: low cost, low heat, less wattage, more compact. Some disadvantages include: less light output therefore more fluorescents are needed to produce larger plants.
-HID Lights: HID stands for High Intensity Discharge Lights. These lights are able to put out a much more substantial amount of light than fluorescents (one 400watt HPS or MH can produce around 40,000 initial lumens compared to a single tube that can produce around 5,000) but are more costly. They consist of a HID bulb (commonly high pressure sodium or metal halide bulbs) ballast, and your fixture. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLACE A HID LIGHT INTO A NORMAL LIGHTING FIXTURE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PLACE A METAL HALIDE LIGHT INTO A FIXTURE SUITABLE FOR ONLY A HIGH PRESSURE SODIUM, AND VICE VERSA. You can purchase these lights from numerous companies such as Hydrofarm, Growzilla, or AGRO Sun. These are the lights you will see larger growers or serious growers using. Some advantages of HID Lights: More light output, Larger grow area, More yield. Some disadvantages: Costly, high wattage, can get rather hot, must have a decent space.
Lighting Conclusion: As a key element of plant life you should definitely put some time and thought into which type of light source will work best for you. What is your budget? How large is your grow room? Do you have ventilation to pull away heat? Is your room so cool that you do not get enough heat? How long have you been growing? I would personally recommend a beginner to start out with fluorescents because of the lesser cost and less experience needed. As you improve in the fine art of marijuana cultivation invest in a HID and transfer your fluorescents into a veg room and separate your flowering plants from your vegetative plants.
NOTE: Light behaves as a particle and a wave. The increase in wavelength (nm) means less frequency, which translates into less energy. Now think about a lighter, which I am sure you use all the time to smoke your bud. The top of the flame where the energy is less is orange and the lower part of the flame is white or blue where the most amount of heat or energy is. This holds true to light. Increase wavelength translates into less energy that then translates into a "warm" color of reds and oranges. A decrease in wavelength translates to higher energy that then translates into a "cool" color of whitish blue. Now think back to the lighter again, the lower blue is hotter and the higher orange is cooler. Lights have color temperature measured in Kelvin. The higher the temperature the "cooler" the color and the lower the temperature the "warmer" the color. Plants love high-energy light during vegetative state when it’s trying to grow. This mimics the intense summer sun. Plants love lower energy light during the flowering season when it is trying to flower. This mimics the less intense sun of autumn. Use a higher color temperature during vegetative growth and use a lower color temperature during flowering.
Lighting Application: Now that you have decided on which light to use you will need to know how to use them. Things you are going to need are available electricity, adjustable hanging devices (get creative), and some sort of a timer device. Hang your lights as close as possible to the top of the plant without damaging it. A good way to test this is to place your hand about the top of your plant for a minute or so. If the heat of light is uncomfortably hot on your hand then the light is way too close.
-Plants work in two basic cycles: Vegetative and Flowering
-Vegetative cycle is the time from when your little ladies get their first set of actual leaves to the time you decide to flower them (unless the strain is auto flowering). In reality the vegetative cycle is during the late spring months through summer when the days are longer. During seedling to early vegetative I would run your lights a constant 24 hours. Once a few weeks old whip out your trusty light timer and set it on 18/6 (18 hours on light 6 hours off). This will give your vegging plants the amount of light/rest they need.
-Flowering Cycle: Once you decide to flower your plants you will need to "trick" them into thinking it is autumn when the days are shorter. To do this go back to the trusty timer and set it to 12/12 (12 hours on 12 hours off).
Atmosphere
-Temperature: The temperature of your growing area effects how your plants will grow. Too hot and they will burn up, too cold and they will freeze to death. Indoors we can control the temperature, outside we cant. To control the temperature ventilation can be installed (fans, blowers, ducting). An ideal growing temperature would be low to mid 70s to low 80s (°F)
- Humidity: Not quite as important as temperature but a factor nonetheless. Massive humidity and your plants will mold during their flowering and ruin your crop. Too dry and your plants will lose their moisture to the dry air. A humidity of around 40-45% is fine usually higher humidity is better in vegetative state and slightly dryer during the flowering state. Hydrometers measure this and can be bought at any home improvement store/aquarium store.
- Air movement: If you have a closet or a confined space odds are you will have excess heat. To remove that heat you will use ventilation. On top of the removal of heat ventilation moves away O2 from the plant and moves in CO2 for the plant to take in. Air movement is an important part of your grow area.
Nutrients
Ever heard you are what you eat? Well guess what it works for plants too. What you give the plant to take in will determine if you burn your roots, if your plant doubles in size and exceeds expected yields, or if it has droopy leaves filled with water. What type of nutrients you give your plant will be determined on what type of medium you are using. Two major ways of growing plants are by Soil or by Hydroponics.
NOTE: Hydroponics is a method of growing using water. Aeroponics, Drip Hydroponics, Flood and Drain and many others are different types of hydroponics applications.
-Hydroponic nutrients: Hydroponic nutrients are basically the same as soil nutrients, just formulated to work better with water and no soil. Nutrients are normally rated according to Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potash (K2O). Bonus's of hydroponics is the ability to play with virtually every aspect of the growing process. If you are going to use hydroponics make sure to include some sort of enzyme(sensizyme or hydrozyme), a metabolism booster (Liquid Karma), an ant disease solution (hydroguard), along with your basic nutes.
-Soil Nutrients: Less intense versions of hydroponic nutrients, usually less acidic. Nutrients are normally rated according to Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potash (K2O)
NOTE: some nutrients can be used in hydroponic and soil applications.
-Recommended nutrients and how to use them:
Some nutrients are synthetically produced, other are made by totally organic products. Some people love organic, some people love synthetic. I don't think there is a better or worse and I use different products that contain a little of both sides of the spectrum. One highly esteemed mainly synthetic nutrient manufacturer is Advanced Nutrients (based out of Canada) and another high esteemed organic nutrient manufacturer is Botanicare. I use a mixture of both in my hydroponic set up and use only Bontanicare in my soil set up. Whether you use organic or synthetic they both require the same things.
NOTE: Some nutrient manufacturers use combinations of Synthetic and Organic nutrients. Advanced Nutrients uses both however I consider it more synthetic.
Nutrient Listing:
Vegetative State:
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro: Excellent organic nutrient. Comes in Pure Blend Grow(suitable for both soil and hydroponics)
Advanced Nutrients SensiGrow: Excellent mainly synthetic nutrient. Comes in two parts that are mixed A and B. Even developed to do better in full sativa plants (ST) and for indica plants (IN) and also hybrids (STIN)
Flowering State:
Botanicare Pure Blend Pro: Excellent organic nutrient. Comes in Pure Blend Bloom (made in two different variations, one for hydroponics, one for soil)
Advanced Nutrients SensiBloom: Excellent mainly synthetic nutrient. Comes in two parts (A and B) that are mixed to desired level. Even developed to do better in full sativa plants (ST) and for indica plants (IN) and also hybrids (STIN)
--These are just two products in a huge industry. People have favorites and some people think some nutrients work better. This is just a starting point. Play around and see what works best for you after all, it will be YOUR smoke when you get done.--
THE LIFE CYCLE OF MARIJUANA:
Germination- many methods out there. Good seeds produce good bud. Bad seeds produce bad bud. I’m not going to go into germination techniques however if you place a seed in soil usually it will take as well as moist peat pellets or equivalent.
Seedling- Once your seed pops and roots form you have a seedling.
Vegetative- Once you have a set of leaves you have a vegging marijuana plant.
Flowering-Once you start your 12/12 you have a flowering marijuana plant.
DRYING AND SMOKIN- Yeah, the best part, you know what to do.
BEGINNERS DOS AND DONTS
DO READ THE BACK OF THE CONTAINER TO FIND THE APPROPRIATE APPLICATION: Every nutrient is different and how to apply them is also different. If you are unsure about how much to use or what to use ALWAYS ERROR ON THE SIDE OF CAUTION. If you under fertilize then you will loose a little yield but if you over do it you can loose everything.
DO CHECK YOUR PH REGULARLY: The PH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is 1 being highly acidic, 14 being highly alkaline, and 7 being neutral. If you are growing hydro you want around a 5.5- 5.9PH and if you are in the soil you will want around a 6 to 6.5 PH. You can check you PH by buying a simple PH test kit at any gardening supply store.
DO NOT OVERWATER YOUR PLANTS (Soil growing only): One common mistake in new growers is thinking the plant needs more water than it does. A good way to know how much water to give your plant is to lift the container. If it feels really heavy odds are there is a lot of water. If it’s really light then you know you have little to no water. What you want is to lift it and feel weight around 1/4 of the bottom of the container
DO NOT UNDERWATER YOUR PLANTS (Soil growing only): People who think they are over watering all the time tend to underwater. As stated above if you pick up your container and it is really light you should add water. When watering your plant be sure to let water drain out of the bottom so the roots don’t try to grow upwards.
DO PLACE AN AIR STONE IN YOUR HYDROPONIC RESEVIOR: Air stones lie in your reservoir and attach to an air pump which pumps air into your water. Its mainly common knowledge that plants take in CO2 and release O2. For the roots it is the exact opposite. Roots love O2 so the more of it at your roots the better.
DO MAINTAIN A CONSISTANT LIGHT, HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE: Plants love regular patterns of light, humidity, and temperature. A light timer guarantees normal and consistent light patterns. Obviously at night when your lights go off the temperature will drop, this is normal. What you want to check is to make sure your night temperature is consistent with other night temperatures and that your day temperatures are consistent with your other day temperatures. One tip for this is to have your temperature probe inside of your grow area and the display outside of your grow area so you can check the temperature at night without disturbing its sleep cycle. There are also thermometers that can measure daytime highs and lows.
DO SPEND TIME CHECKING YOUR PLANTS DAILY: If you don't spend time with your plants then your plants have a higher chance of failing. Checking PH, Temp, Light, and just overall health are an important part of your growing process. Just give your plant some tender loving care and it should turn out fine. BEWARE of dropping or dead leaves, this could be the start of more serious problems. BEWARE of mite and insects. BEWARE of mold and fungus. BEWARE of open cuts in your plant, this opens it for infection.
DO CLEAN YOUR HYDROPONIC RESEVIOR REGULARLY: You resevior will collect minerals and nutrient deposists as well as slime and algae. Cleaning your resevior and changing the water regularly will prevent this. Also if you have a water pump in your resevior make sure you remove the filter and clean any nutrient or minerals in there as well.
DO TRANSPLANT YOUR PLANT: A big mistake is having a container too small for your plant. Be sure to transplant as it grows. I usually start in a solo cup and move into a five gallon bucket to finish its life out. Be sure to loosen the root ball when you are transplanting.
DO SMOKE AND SPEND TIME WITH YOUR PLANTS: A: its cool to hang out with your lovely ladies B: you will notice problems if they come and C: you will produce CO2 for your plant to take in.
DO CLONE YOUR PLANTS: Cloning will give you an EXACT replica of your mother plant. This isn't the easiest process so search the forums and do some research.
DO LOOK AT 420MAGAZINE GROW JOURNALS: If you are thinking it, odds are its already been thought, tested, and done. If you want to know how to start germination look at a nice grow journal. If you don't like that technique then move to another one. If you can't figure out the right nutrient solution, look at someone else’s who has had success and try to improve.
I HOPE THIS INFORMATION WILL HELP YOU GUYS--FEEL FREE TO ADD TO/CORRECT ME IF YOU SEE ANYTHING
Sedo out
