100% Organic Soil Mix (MSC, ATTRA, OMRI, WSDA)

[Jack Dos]

(This is a re-post to the right section)

organic mix for:

Seelings / Early Growing (Flowering is below);


50~55% Organic Soil - No Fert. No Nothing. No slow release (mcenroeorganicfarm.com - (518)789-3252 for orders))

1~2% powder seaweed (if not/then use liquid seaweed in spray/watering mix) - Used for its nutrients.

1% Alfalfa Meal (N,K) BURNS ROOTS USE CAUTION AND SMALL AMOUNTS (Alternative to blood meal, but mostly used to start composition) *Buy any garden store

1~2% Blood Meal (N+) High Nitrogen, Certified for organic use, BUT not for plants/food that animals will later eat [ie. growing corn to feed cows]) *But at any garden store

1~2% Bone Meal (P+) - acidifies *Buy at any garden store

1~2% Granite Meal (K+) *Buy at any garden store

15-20% Worm Castings (Use 10% if using different soil then stated, or if its included within the soil) (fertilizeronline.com) Organic matter for plant nutrients (Same as vermicompost/but cheaper)
Contains: Nitrogen, Patassium, Calcium, Iron

OR

15-20% Vermicompost (localharvest.org) Organic matter for plant nutrients / More nutrients than plan worm castings (more expensive too) always hand made usually by yourself, but their is one company (link above) - this is all matter from which tiger worms or red wigglers feed on and then poop out. )
Contains: Nitrogen, Patassium, Calcium, Iron

( Since I have both, I use approx 10% of each/ 10% worm + 10% vermicompost)


10% Rock Dust/Stone Meal (fertilizeronline.com) Used for basic minerals (Iron, Calcium, Magnesium ect..)

5% Humus (Acientforrest.com) (For basic plant nutrients) Alternative to Compost (all natural material) Nitrogen Mostly

5% coarst builders sand (Make Sure/No Sand Subs./ No Polymers) *Buy at any hardware store


Too Much (N) can cause bacteria growth. Too less, plans wont survive. This should be the perfect mix for (seedlings/pre-flowering)


Flowering Soil Mix;

Same as above, just add Fish Meal N+,P (5%) and subtract 5% from soil

MIX FOR WATERING:

Bio Vega - Read Instructions (For seedlings, do not use/pre-flower use slightly, then use as recomended)

Liquid Seaweed (IF NOT IN SOIL MIX ALREADY use = maxicorp powder seaweed.)

Thrive Alive B-1 0.5ml/gallon (First 2 weeks then 1ml/gal the rest)

Molassas - Use as wanted... I've found no reasonable doubt that this makes anything better... I do not use this...

Water.... Tap works best, but check pH levels... 6.5-7.2max.


MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH!!!! STOP USING FERTILIZER/MIX WATER AND USE PLAIN WATER 10 DAYS BEFORE HARVEST (WEEK 8 OF FLOWERING)


This mix is what ive reasearch for the past 3-5 days, about 4-6 hours a day. to be the best mix to what ive READ. I have not tried this yet, will get the supplies in about 5 days, then transplant everything to 3gal bags. (4gal if i can find them) but the mix will be the same nonetheless.

This mix will be truely organic. It will have all natural elements for growth, nutrients, with a mix of about 15~19 N,P,K across the board.

This Mix will drain properly, and will maintain the proper levels naturally for plant growth. Becuase the mixture is truely natural and has all elements to properly drain and keep nutrients you can water this normally keeping the soil evenly moist, and it shouldnt cause root rot, mold, algee, or mildue or bacteria. It contains natural fungi and bacteria that will kill unwated mildue or mold and prevent algee from forming. (should)

Remember to watch for damage and adjust acordingly. Do not add any Fish Meal unless your in flowering small seedlings cannot handle this much N content (stimulates growth) and can burn plants.

DO NOT USE FERTILIZER!:

Any manure, even if its bat guano... (I dont care what you say, any manure is bad. And once added to a soil, it does not leave. EVER!


REASON FOR ORGANIC:

Best taste from the plant, naturally.
Natural like enviorment.
Easy to maintain
NO TOXINS!
Let the green stay green. Smoke the Green. TruelyGreen, Green.


Let's see this in action soon - PLEASE COMMENT, LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK!

 

[OG13]

What's wrong w/ manure/guano? Does it matter if it ever "leaves the soil"?

 

[Jack Dos]

Well manure as stated before contains, (usually over) 3.0ppm of ammonium, will have sulfides, has Co2, has ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites.

1. This will not certify as organic.
2. A lot of these chemicals are for decomposition, and if you have the right soil, all of these can be avoided.
3. Basically their added chemicals, and that, you dont want anyways. The soil above will contain everything for decomposition naturally without the chemicals.
4. It's healthier. Less chemicals, less its doing on your body, even if you flush your plants, the end product, was produced by using chemicals. (This has been even passed by the FDA with blood and bone meal products, that cant be used on anything that is going to be fed to the animals for food sources.) Same thing here, you dont want to have chemicals in the end product, produced with materials you dont want/need in the first place that could be harmful.
5. Manure/guano doesn't break down. It will continue to make the same chemicals in your soil. Kinda like back in the day when people put raw crude oil in the soil for a finer product. Just something you don't want to be ingesting. And doesn't go away, ever. 6.Things that are used in embalming fluid, personally, I just don't want in my product.
7. I'm not saying this to be directed as a non-thing to do, just what I chose personally to not do. Please don't take offense to this post.

 

[Droopy Dog]

IDK, I would be less concerned with the 100% organic and more like 100% natural. Pretty much any 'natural' anything that contains no carbon will not be considered 'organic'.

Like, perlite, a natural mined whatever that is not 'organic'. but far from synthetic. Same thing with lime, which comes from ground limestone. Rocks aren't considered 'organic'. Natural, yes, but not organic.

BTW, both of these should be added to your mix. One for airation and drainage (perlite), and the other, a soil pH buffer and source of cal/mag (dolomite or garden lime).

Don't get all that caught up in terms and see what's in what and how it all works.

DD

 

[Jack Dos]

This is very true, maybe an @, can change my title to 100% organic/natural mix. This would be very much needed, as you are right, Double D.

My ingredients are the closest thing you will find to nature, organic, but yes, all natural. Nothing will be derived from anything other than that but not limited to natural elements.


Thank you Double D for clarifying this.

 

[Jack Dos]

and it ended up using 70%CocoGro instead of organic/natural soil with a higher percent,

also, used 5% wormcastings (or) vermicompost *(Yes they are two different things)

max use i found out with more research is 10%. Any more than this and its trouble.
So, if you use worm castings or vermicompost, only do a max of up to 10% total.

I used 5%.

Also, I will sprinkle this stuff called insect frass (onfrass(dot)com), that is amazing at 2N 2P 2K across the board. I sprinkle it across the top of the soil once a week, and water.

 

[Jack Dos]

(This is a re-post to the right section)

organic mix for:

Seelings / Early Growing (Flowering is below);


70% Organic Soil - No Fert. No Nothing. No slow release (mcenroeorganicfarm.com - (518)789-3252 for orders))
(Ended up using CocoGro)

1% powder seaweed (if not/then use liquid seaweed in spray/watering mix) - Used for its nutrients.

1% Alfalfa Meal (N,K) BURNS ROOTS USE CAUTION AND SMALL AMOUNTS (Alternative to blood meal, but mostly used to start composition) *Buy any garden store

1% Blood Meal (N+) High Nitrogen, Certified for organic use, BUT not for plants/food that animals will later eat [ie. growing corn to feed cows]) *But at any garden store

1% Bone Meal (P+) - acidifies *Buy at any garden store

1% Granite Meal (K+) *Buy at any garden store

5% Worm Castings (Use 2.5% if using different soil then stated, or if its included within the soil) (fertilizeronline.com) Organic matter for plant nutrients (Same as vermicompost/but cheaper)
Contains: Nitrogen, Patassium, Calcium, Iron

OR

5% Vermicompost (localharvest.org) Organic matter for plant nutrients / More nutrients than plan worm castings (more expensive too) always hand made usually by yourself, but their is one company (link above) - this is all matter from which tiger worms or red wigglers feed on and then poop out. )
Contains: Nitrogen, Patassium, Calcium, Iron

( Since I have both, I use approx 10% of each/ 10% worm + 10% vermicompost)


10% Rock Dust/Stone Meal (fertilizeronline.com) Used for basic minerals (Iron, Calcium, Magnesium ect..)

5% Humus (Acientforrest.com) (For basic plant nutrients) Alternative to Compost (all natural material) Nitrogen Mostly

5% coarse builders sand (Make Sure/No Sand Subs./ No Polymers) *Buy at any hardware store

Bloom/Flowering Soil Mix;

Same as above, just add Fish Meal N+,P (5%) and subtract 5% from soil

MIX FOR WATERING:

Bio Vega - Read Instructions (For seedlings, do not use/pre-flower use slightly, then use as recomended)

Liquid Seaweed (I used powder in my mix, and use liquid in my water, 1cap per 1gal)

Thrive Alive B-1 0.5ml/gallon (First 2 weeks then 1ml/gal the rest)

Molasses - Use as wanted... I've found no reasonable doubt that this makes anything better... I did not use this

Water.... Tap works best, but check pH levels... 6.5-7.2max.


MAKE SURE YOU FLUSH!!!! STOP USING FERTILIZER/MIX WATER AND USE PLAIN WATER 10 DAYS BEFORE HARVEST (WEEK 8 OF FLOWERING)

DO NOT USE FERTILIZER!:

Any manure, even if its bat guano... (I dont care what you say, any manure is bad. And once added to a soil, it does not leave. EVER!

This is what I ended up using.

Here is the measuring units I used to make 5gal (so this will make 2.5 2 gals);

1% = 190ml = ~ 0.75 cups
5% = 946.35ml = ~ 4.0 cups
10% = 1.89L/1890ml = ~ 8.0 cups
70% = 12.300ml = ~ 56.0 cups

1 cup = 236ml
1/2 cup = 118ml
56 cups = 3.5 gal
1/2 gal = 8 cups/64oz
5gal = 80 cups

 

[pot grower]

Hi there guys.Just wanne know if any of you have ever used mushroom compost to grow with?

 

[Jack Dos]

never thought of that.. i will look into it and see what i come up with

Well, with the research ive found with m.compost, is that it has its advantages and disadvantages.

To break down the bacteria in the mushrooms for it to become sterile is a vigorous process. It requires high temp and chemicals. They do have organic m. compost companies that supply them, but the breakdown process still uses chemicals.

There is a high sodium content in m. compost. Also, sometimes there are high chemical compounds still found in the lower end compost deposits. (they will have a smell). Also, if no chemical is used, you will have organic material mixed with other animal fertilizers to break down the mushrooms into a composts. Such materials being chicken fertilizer. (gross, gross and more gross). I wouldn't ever want anything like this touching my plants but this is up to you. People love bat guano, which contains ammonium nitrat and sulfides, which are in your soil perm. once you use them. They will never be flushed out. I stick with fish emulsion or fish fert. This is just fish, broken down into a dust or like I use, a paste type liquid. (raw fish fert).

Nonetheless, people look at m. compost because its ridiculously cheap. @ about 13 dollars a bag. (40 lbs). at some places. The quality and breakdown of m. compost will always be different, always.

So what they use to break down the mushrooms is totally up to the company and the quality will differ from each company, based on the process they use.

After reading, I wouldn't use it personally. But, then again. its up to you.
The only thing m. compost is used for mostly, is to retain water, it does have a high concentration of nutrients and salt, so this would not work during germination also, microbiology is present but not a complete micro content is present for a complete breakdown of nutrients, that your plants would need. Nothing that a substitute like fish fert, could be used to do with a complete line of microbio's included.

IF your in a grind to use with a LOT of soil. sure.
IF your in a grind and not using a LOT of soil, use something else.

It could contain a lot of bad mineral deposits as well as non organic material processing. - a no no.
But, strains very from supplier to supplier, so taking a chance, I would try a small dose..

 

[pot grower]

Thanks altfour. I'm from South Africa and its really tough getting propper soil here and local soils usually has a ph of 8. I'm waiting for my order for 5 auto white widow fem seeds and I wanna get the soil right for them. The mushroom compost I found here has a ph of 6.7.

 

[Jack Dos]

if you can, id recommend organic coco fiber, mix your own nutrients in, like organic humus and vermiculite, this will be very suitable for your watering also, you can add things like, liquid or powdered seaweed and bone/blood/alfalfa meal to add the nutrients and such to your soil/

these should be able to all be found in your area. but, with your high heat your soil maybe just right for going outdoors

If you want you can always heat your soil to about 160-170 degrees for about 1 to 2 hrs to burn off any bacteria and lower your ph

 

[Dragonian]

I am starting with a mix by McEnroe that has org compost, peat,sand, rock phosphate, calcinated clay, gypsum and blood meal that has a ph 6.2 to 6.8.

I want to make a soil mix which will
be used indoors and outdoors.

To three 22 qt bags of McEnroe mix I will add :

Ewc 40 lb
Coco 64 qt
Harmony org composted poultry manure 5-4-3
Azomite
glacial rock dust
gypsum and epsom salt rather than domomite,
thorvin Kelp,bone meal,blood meal,
And powdered humic and fluvics from bioAg
I will innoculate with vermaplex and biodynamics field spray.

I also have 40 lb org composted horse and steer manure.
I would love to hear from some organic growers some adcice for my portions to use and cook this batch soon.

I am so tired of reading and typing on on my android phone all the threads about getting high.
I need help please !
I plan to grow seeds and a clone of misty pearl.
Its for myself.
Thanks,
Intolerantsensitive

 

[Dragonian]

Ps
My stash got robbed and the only thing I can smoke is some ruedialis dirt weed. The friend who is growing both rudialis and misty pearl is somewhat iliterate and has no clue about soil ammendments. He is afraid of using kelp or azomite. But at leaat he knows the strains he has are old and very nice when grown well.
Any advice on my portions would be awesome.

 

[Dragonian]

Pss our limestone topography makes water pH 7.7
Will a britta filter reduce the pH or do I need to buy RO water?
I can water in calcium carbonate if I need to raise pH but I dunno yet. With this mix I know I will have to wait and see what it turns out to be. I will wait 30 days to cook; but is that really necessary if I am going to bury it in the bottom of the pot/hole
How long must it cook before I can get an idea of what the ph will be?
Thanks
Intolerantsensitive

 

[Dragonian]

Yes I am obcessed with getting some portions figured
But have trouble with math.
If I follow the menu :
50 % potting soil and I have 22 qt of peat based McEnroe premixed
20% ewc. I have 40 lb
I have 16 qt of coir
40 lb composted org horse steer manure
Composted poutry manure 5-4-3
I need help figuring the right portions please

 

[Jack Dos]

Im going to state what @Droopy Dog Stated;

Don't be so concerned about organic. And this mix, well any compost mix, is mostly at that point natural.

But, I am going to state, that going natural, yes I knew what I could use to make the mix truely natural at that point, question is, was it worth all the added minerals and nutrients, No.

After all said and done, going completely OMRI ;organic; instead of going completely ;natrual; I didnt notice any difference at all. Actually when I started using just OMRI base pro-mix and coco coir, and just used organic molasses and fish fert with b1. I noticed the plants actually were a lot better off than the natural. This was tested with over 4 different strains..

So all in all was natural worth it? No, I had too much ;natural; invorment which I ended up spending more money on preditory mites to kill the bugs. I had to use more Yellow Strips which cost more money. I had air pots -(which are horrible by the way. The fibers collect eggs, so if you go to re-use them you have to wash them, bake them, then wash them again) total waste of time and extra money to just have these air pots. Plus having such a natural mix, it held too many mites. Was there reasonable difference... No. Personally I would say yes, but only because I knew what it was growing in. But I could just have used pro-mix (spag peat) and coco coir and add my fert and minerals from b1 and molasses or other bloom/flower nutes. The coco coir and pro-mix is a light enough mix to aerate itself. So No noticeable difference from the, medium, medium material, and ingredients used.

So, what would I tell you to do, if you want to grow outside and make a garden, add these things, if you want an indoor garden, use OMRI listed products, go organic, and do not go gung-ho 'natural' because its just not worth it, nor is there any difference.

This is what I've seen, and learned from first hand. Not from word of mouth or seen through someone's garden, this is from my own experience.