Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help?

BassPlayer

BassPlayer

New Member
Plant of the Month
November 2010
Im just about to transplant my seedlings into their new DWC homes...

**Does Anybody Know Why AN Nutrient Calculator Shows 956ppm in Week 1**
I thought the target max in wk 1 was 4-500ppm?
I hope someone can help me out kinda quick before I kill my babies...

I will be using G/M/B base with hobbyist bundle add ons...in a 8 liters/2 gallons bubbler..(tho im using biobizz root juice in place of voodoo juice (recd. by my growshop guy who says voodoo juice will be too violent for my small size DWC)
I dont have a ppm/tds meter, just a EC meter where 1ppm=0,5uS/cm,
I know the AN calculator is 1ppm=0,7uS/cm
Any help will be so much appreciated
:Namaste:
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

yeah, i noticed that too, but most people say use a quarter dose anyway, so that should bring it down...
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

supposedly they're ppm perfect, try it!!! >:3


kidding, I don't want you to hurt your plants, go with the 1/4 strength at first :bongrip:
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

Definitely don't just blindly follow any company's feeding schedule.

In the case of AN, I'd say to just call their 800 number if you want clarification. I'm not sure when they consider the first week to begin. Surely it's not in the seedling stage, but exactly when I'm not sure.

For vegetative growth I start at a very low dose (roughly 1/4) after the first set of true leaves is open and bigger than the baby leaves. As they grow I dial up the dose to full, or as full as they seem to want.

Go off the EC/ppm of the solution as they use it. If it goes up you're overfeeding, if it goes down they want more food.

IMHO the feeding charts are meant more for flowering anyway.
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

I had same problem I emailed AN and got this response.



Thank you for your inquiry,



Here is a relatively simple version of the feeding chart that includes a number of our supplements and additives, while still giving you great results and yields. Let me know if there is anything else I can add or if this is sufficient.



Vegetative growth



We do not recommend applying any nutrients until your plants have developed 3-4 sets of new or true leafs if grown from clones or seedlings. Also, if growing in amended soil, do not apply any nutrients until the plants have used up all the nutrients supplied by the soil. Having said that, here is what we suggest:



Until they develop 3 or 4 sets of new (clones)/true (seedlings) leaves feed them only water. You can foliar spray them with Jumpstart, use application rate suggested on the bottle or 1/4 strength B-52 (1 mL/liter) until then. You can also add 1/4 strength applications of Piranha, Tarantula or Voodoo Juice, to the water that you will use in the root zone.



Clones seedlings need high levels of moisture in the medium

(80% -85% is good 100% is too much)



They also like a warmer environment in the root zone 70 F – 80 F.









Week 1 – 300 ppm: GMB @ 0.5ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio (1.5 ml in total per liter) + Foliar spray B-52 once per week at the 2ml/L application rate.

Week 2 – 600 ppm: GMB @ 1.0ml/L of each in a 1-1-1 ratio + Foliar spray B-52.

Week 3 – 900 ppm: GMB @ 2.0ml/L of Grow, 2.0ml/L Micro and 0.4ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (4.4ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice at the rate of 2ml/L + Foliar spray B-52.

Week 4 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2.5ml/L of Grow, 2.5ml/L Micro and 0.5ml/L Bloom in a 10-10-1 ratio (5.5ml in total per liter) + Voodoo Juice + Foliar spray B-52.



If it is necessary to veg your plants for a longer period of time then 4 weeks, continue with the 4th week application rates. Apply voodoo juice for up to three week in a row, to properly inoculate the root zone, after which, you can discontinue the application. Also, we recommend growing your plants in veg until they are about 1/3 of their final finish height, since the plants will put on anywhere from 1/2 - 2/3 more vertical growth in the bloom stage. That is, if you want to finish your plants at 6 feet tall, veg until they are 2 foot.



Flower Production Stage



Week 1 – 1000 ppm: GMB @ 1.82 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio (5.46 ml in total per liter)

Week 2 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2.27 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio

Week 3 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.70 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio

Week 4 - 1600 ppm: GMB @ 3.33 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio

Week 5 – 1400 ppm: GMB @ 2.70 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio

Week 6 – 1200 ppm: GMB @ 2.27 ml/L each in a 1-1-1 ratio

Week 7 – Flush!

If plant needs longer than 6 weeks of feeding (7 week strain, the 7th week is a flush week), repeat week 4 for each extra week.



Overfeeding



If the very tip of the leaves get yellow, it is an early sign of overfeeding. Reduce the solution strength slightly (100 – 150 ppm), if not increase slightly.



Deficiencies



If the margins or any other part of the leaves yellows off it is a possible sign of deficiencies. Check pH in medium and reservoir, if the pH is off from the ideal levels lock out conditions may develop. At first symptom of a deficiency apply rule # 1: “When in doubt flush them out.”

If growing in a medium that takes some time to dry up, allow the medium to dry and feeding them plain pH adjusted water when they are ready, rule #2: “Don’t apply until it’s dry.” If growing in a re circulating system, find a way to give them only pH adjusted water for the length of a light cycle, a second reservoir just for water may be a simple solution, then it is just a matter of moving the pump over, maintain the regular water pump cycle during the flush.



pH conditions in medium



In Soil/Soiless (Soil or Soiless mixtures that may also contain peat moss but not Coco Coir) adjust the pH to 6.3



In Hydro (It includes products such as Rockwool, Hydroton Rock, and Lava Rock) adjust to 5.6



In Coco Coir adjust the ph to 5.8 – 6.0. You may want to supplement with SensiCal when growing in coco with a base nutrient that in not specific to growing in coco



Root damage



Another possibility is damage in the root zone, check for the possibility of root rot, or insect larvae as potential causes for root deterioration, brown, mushy, smelly roots are a good indicator of root damage. Hydrogen peroxide is an efficient way to destroy root rot causing bacteria.



Mixing instructions



When mixing your reservoir, always mix the product that has the highest nitrogen content first (the first number on the NPK rating.) This will more often then not, be your base nutrients. Make sure you properly dissolve each product before mixing the next one into your reservoir. After adding everything into the reservoir, allow the solution to sit for at least 1-2 hours. This will allow the pH to stabilize, making it easier to adjust. Once the pH is stabilized, measure it, and adjust according to the medium you are growing in.



When using a re circulating system, you will be dealing with one of two situations, either the reservoir is large enough to feed the plants for a week without the need to be topped up during the week or it is a small reservoir and in order to feed the plants through the week it will require to be topped up.





In case of reservoir that does not need to be topped up.



Add to the reservoir the amount of water that the plants are going to be using for the week, include some extra water to allow for evaporation.

Mix the nutrient solution at 1/6th of the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Example: If the plants need 1200 ppm for the week, divide 1200 by 6 and mix the reservoir at 200 – 250 ppm.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants.

Allow the plants to feed on the solution and the pH to rise for 1 1/2 – 2 days before re adjusting the pH.



In case of reservoir that needs to be topped up with water during the week.



Add to reservoir the amount of water that the plants will use in 3 – 3 ½ days.

Mix the nutrient solution at the strength that is suggested in the calculator for that week.

Allow the solution to sit long enough to stabilize the pH. Adjust pH

Feed the plants



Allow the plants to feed on the solution for 1 1/2 – 2 days, top up with water to the original level first before re adjusting the pH, after adding the water allow solution to sit for an hour and re adjust the pH.



If growing in soil adjust the pH 6.3, in coco 5.8 – 6.0, in hydro 5.6.



When using a re circulating system having the pH rise after you start feeding the plants is a good thing, It means that the plants are up taking nutrient, it is important that it rises the plants up take different nutrients at different pH levels, allow the pH to rise for 1 ½ - 2 days at that point adjust the pH down to 5.6 again



Nutrient Calculator, Hydroponics nutrient calculator



Measurements:



1 gallon = 4 liters (quarts)

1 tsp (teaspoon) = 5 mL

1/2 tsp (teaspoon) = 2.5 mL

1/4 tsp (teaspoon) = 1.25 mL

1 tbsp (tablespoon) = 3 tsp (teaspoon) = 15 mL

We use a 700 ppm/uS/m scale or a 0.7 scale to convert from EC to ppm.
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

There was a problem with their calculator...this is what AN replied to me after I mailed them...

"There is a problem with how the caclulator figures the EC or ppm when certain values are selected though so thank you for bringing that to our attention. I mentioned it to Big Mike, one of the owners of AN in Barcelona this weekend and he was going to get someone on it right away.

I also suggested to them to explain the use of the calculator better if they want our new system to be easy to use. They designed the system to be simple but the nutrient calculator was only easy to use if you were already familiar with it..."

seems it wasnt just me, but I think now we have it sorted...if not from ANs site yet, then definately from the post and info above by hillbillyj.
I havent encounter any problems yet and Im 2 weeks in, :thanks: and :high-five: to you all for replies to this thread
:Namaste:
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

The way AN always seems to be improving their recipes I'm not really surprised that the calculator wouldn't always reflect the right mix rate. And right now there's at least two major different versions of most of their base nutes on shelves and it's important to know which you have.
 
Re: Advanced Nutrients - Nutrient Calculator Help!?

On my 1st go around with AN. 3 weeks in and I am very impressed so far I'm getting 1"1/2 growth on some days and at least 1" on other days. Roots are unbelievably healthy I have used various other nutes in past grows and nothing compares to this AN Grow Micro Bloom. I will start flowering in 1-2 weeks and hope the same can still be said.
 
Thanks for the good luck VapedOutJoe. When you were using AN 2 part were you using the sensi line or a Lucas like of the micro & bloom? I'm always on the look out for a good inexpensive line of nutes to use. What have you found that works for you? The nearest Hydro store is more than 100 mi. away so to say the least what ever I need for my grow I get online. I'm not a large grower just need a few for personal use. Thanks again.
 
I used the Sensi 2 part line. I've still got a ton of it. I will use it again, but after trying cheaper stuff from the store, the results are, either works fine. AN is strong stuff. GH has good prodect for much cheaper, and I've used a product I had for my outdoor plants called algoflash, it says it can be used in hydro, it's a liquid, and it did a fine job. I got AN after using a powder that i had to mix into the water for my hydro, and that was a pain. Looking back on things I do not believe I needed to invest so much into nutes. I could have gotten cheaper nutes, and saved my money for better lights, filtration, climate control, RO (I have one now but didn't back then), design, etc. I found that the best money spent is on dialing in your grow area so you can have the most control over your environment. Nutes are cheap if you don't believe in the hype. My veggies do great on cheap nutes, not on overpriced stuff Made useing the best ingredients so you can have 20 lb tomatoes that are better tasting than anything you've had before. I can rock out tomatos for a few dollars worth of nutes for the whole season. Just my thought.
I don't have a true recommendation for any product really. I've used quite a few and am always pretty pleased. I like easy, no mixing powders, stuff. Best thing I've learned is cheap nutes can give you great buds. Get a good N-P-K product that has micros in it, or get a 2 part that is very easy to use. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the advice I will give cheaper nutes a try next go around. I wish I could find something from walmart, lowes or home depot. My shipping cost was 1/3 the price of my nutes it was over 40.00 to get the grow micro and bloom shipped to me. That sucked.

I love my home grown tomatoes too.
Last summer we had temps in the mid 90s to 100 for weeks on end and severe drought conditions. It kept the yield a little low my biggest was 1.75 lbs avg was 1 lb. That hot weather made for some great tasting tomatoes tho.
 
In CA we have another option OSH. I saw they are now stocking GH products and a few hydro growing systems too. I haven't checked lowes or HD for hydro nutes for a long time. I would think they would start stocking something sometime??? I know I have never seen any hydro specific nutes in Wallyworld, i couldn't even find simple items like zinc there.
 
Nutrient Calculator Question

BassPlayer said:
**Does Anybody Know Why AN Nutrient Calculator Shows 956ppm in Week 1**
I thought the target max in wk 1 was 4-500ppm?
I hope someone can help me out kinda quick before I kill my babies...

I will be using G/M/B base with hobbyist bundle add ons...in a 8 liters/2 gallons bubbler..(tho im using biobizz root juice in place of voodoo juice (recd. by my growshop guy who says voodoo juice will be too violent for my small size DWC)
I dont have a ppm/tds meter, just a EC meter where 1ppm=0,5uS/cm
Any help will be so much appreciated
Click to expand...


I hope this helps with the ppm and ec comparrison
PPM-EC-C3.jpg
 
Well I followed there calulator for my DWC 5 gallons on their SensiGrow/Bloom. Their calculator stats 1040ppm all weeks... pfft. If I go over 200ppm its like battery acid to the roots, way too strong.

I started at 1040ppm like stating in week 1 veg and the plant didn't show any signs of problems until few weeks later when growth stops, and roots are thin and dark and leaves finally show burns. I mean the stuff works good, maybe too good and too strong but if you can throttle it back in DWC it looks like a good alternative to GH Lucas 2:1 formula.

Now I am at micro dosages in the 5 gallons (100 to 200ppm in veg and 400/500 flower) grow is now amazing and green and they love it. Good for me as I use WAY less nutes which I am glad since they are not the cheapest salts in the game. It took me weeks to get that low after weeks of watching them go good and turn bad when they just cant keep up with the potency. I mean it seems way too low but the results speak for themselves.

Just be careful start 1/5 to 1/4 dosage and go from there, as even 1/3 to 1/2 is still too strong.
 
It's a common misconception to think that "week 1" is the first week the plant is alive. Whether you're growing from seed or cloning you should be growing them out a little before you put them into "veg". Exactly when you start counting as week 1, week 2, etc depends on the grower. So when a company makes a feeding chart they have to draw the line somewhere.

You can bet they're assuming your plants aren't tiny in week 1.

The newest pH Perfect feeding chart (the fold-out in the latest issue of Rosebud is what I'm looking at) has down at the bottom the feeding schedule for veg. Weeks 1-4 show 4ml/L of base nutes, but then to the left it has this:

Base Nutrients Directions:
Cuttings and Seedlings: 1ml/L
Small Plants: 2ml/L
Mature Plants: 4ml/L

There you have it. Full strength is for "mature plants" and that's apparently where they start counting Week 1. Ultimately it's up to you to decide when you want to start and end what you want to call "Veg". And it's up to you to decide how much to feed your plants at each step along the way. These guys have to print up some kind of schedule and no matter how carefully they plan it out it will end up wrong for someone.
 
I use the m\g\b grand master never had a problem with it.I always went half on what it says and i dont put nothing iv veg until 4 or 6 leafs. as far as my ph went and ppm i adjusted it to how the pplant reacted to it. But i do do know start off little and work your way up and you should be fine.Plus keep records on your progress if that the strain you intend to grow for awhile. And once you have that dialed in. Away you go!!! But if your changing strains after every harvest. You might what to look for a differnt Nut.... that works for any strain something simple and not alot of addtive with it.

Some people I have been talking to have been making a change to Ionic. Ihave been looking into to ths as well.Its cheaper and not alot of additves. Not to knock advance or anything. MY pockets are deep but if i can save alittle i will. the money can go towrd other things for my rooms.But i'm still doing research on Ionic.
 
Ruhaa said:
I use the m\g\b grand master never had a problem with it.I always went half on what it says and i dont put nothing iv veg until 4 or 6 leafs. as far as my ph went and ppm i adjusted it to how the pplant reacted to it. But i do do know start off little and work your way up and you should be fine.Plus keep records on your progress if that the strain you intend to grow for awhile. And once you have that dialed in. Away you go!!! But if your changing strains after every harvest. You might what to look for a differnt Nut.... that works for any strain something simple and not alot of addtive with it.

Some people I have been talking to have been making a change to Ionic. Ihave been looking into to ths as well.Its cheaper and not alot of additves. Not to knock advance or anything. MY pockets are deep but if i can save alittle i will. the money can go towrd other things for my rooms.But i'm still doing research on Ionic.
Click to expand...

Changing strain after every grow can complicate things, but not so much that you'd have to find simpler (cheaper) nutrients to compensate. If you've got some good experience at your back you can simply dial back to - like you suggest - about half strength and go from there. Plus it's not that hard to do a little homework on the next strain you're starting ahead of time and find out if it's a heavy feeder or a light feeder or whatever.

I've personally never had that big a problem but I do like to stick with popular strains that I can read up on extensively.
 

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