Ash Fertilizer

Brett2theMax

Brett2theMax

New Member
Would using ash in soil be a good idea? Not from dubies or what ever but burnt wood or burnt grass. I know it works in nature, a forest burns and later from the ashes new growth. I read wood ash is high in P values. Thoughts suggestions?
 
Wood ash is what is known as "potash" when using it as fertilizer. It is very high in potassium and can burn the plants if not used carefully.
 
i've used ash on potatoes when planting, i would cut a potato in half and rub ash on the open wound, keeps bugs and shit out. works well.
 
Ashed remains of the plant are always incredibly fruitful for any plant. cannibus is no different. as a new gardener, I have done some research, as well as my own troubleshooting. I have added simple nutrients in variable doses, as well as tried different "Ancient Chinese Secrets" and the remains of smoked bowls, bong water, fish tank water, etc.. all are very assistive to you plants. Just use like your introducing a drug to newborn. Limited doses, at first, and increase as you see the results. Your plants looooove the nutrients ash produces.
 
Wood ash is such a good fertilizer that when the United States became a British colony one of the things America sent over to England was shiploads of wood ash for use as fertilizer because England had badly depleted soil. Even in contemporary times poor farmers around the world use it as a cheap and readily available fertilizer. I have a fireplace and after a fire I collect a plastic bag full of the finest ash I can find with very few pieces of charcoal. I add this to my plants not during the veg cycle but about a week into the flowering cycle. This gives the plant a little extra NPK to help it grow big juicy fat buds. If you do not believe me, try it. I grew two clones cut from the exact same plant and both were planted in 3 gallon smart pots. One plant was given just wood ash and the other plant I fed the Fox Farm nutrient line up. The plant I gave straight wood ash had bigger thicker healthier buds and the overall look of the plant was more healthy than the one I fed nutrients.
 
Wholeheartedly agree with you... What ash are you using? how do keep out insects? cause I do have an insect, "Fruit Fly" dilemma. No matter what I do, I can't get rid of em. The house i dwell in is a very old, under maintained house. So insects are apart of the living environmental, and with just wood ash, wouldn't it attract more species of insect? I have been lead to wood ash, or the ash from that white tree... I personally add in once a week, burnt remains of my bowl and bong are given to my plants, when I as well add my nutrients(MIRACID/ & Orchid Mix) of my own Mixture, they also receive the bong/fish water with the ash from my bowls, daily in a spray mist, and weekly in a large dose watering.
:reading420magazine:
 
I don't know how to explain the specifics, I Would say it has to do with the resign, which as well, is the remains of the fruit of the same plant. I just know I use it as an addition to my plants in their weekly spraying in the shower... hehehehe I don't actually water my plants, but more spray mist them... It's more, I guess just a touch of my own recipe of nutrients...
:tokin:
 
MasterLynxx said:
Wholeheartedly agree with you... What ash are you using? how do keep out insects? cause I do have an insect, "Fruit Fly" dilemma. No matter what I do, I can't get rid of em. The house i dwell in is a very old, under maintained house. So insects are apart of the living environmental, and with just wood ash, wouldn't it attract more species of insect? I have been lead to wood ash, or the ash from that white tree... I personally add in once a week, burnt remains of my bowl and bong are given to my plants, when I as well add my nutrients(MIRACID/ & Orchid Mix) of my own Mixture, they also receive the bong/fish water with the ash from my bowls, daily in a spray mist, and weekly in a large dose watering.
:reading420magazine:
Click to expand...

The fruit flies or white flies can be a big problem because they are attracted to rotting organic matter and lay their eggs (maggots) which feed on your roots. Thankfully these pests are not too hard to get rid of. What you can do is lower the frequency of how often you water for starters. Over watering is often the primary cause of these pests invading. If the problem still persists you can use a food safe pesticide such as AZAMAX to drench your roots. It may take 2 or 3 applications to totally kill all the flies and maggos. Another remedy you can try which was told to me by a guy who runs a dispensary is to mix up some water and lemon juice and do a root drench with the lemon water solution. Not sure I would do this one myself but if you cannot afford AZAMAX than this might be an option for you. Good luck on the flies. Cheers.
 
Well thank you... Ironically I did just get back from the store today with a new pesticide. I have tried out egg shells, as well as a couple of water soluble "Household" barriers treatments. However, I don't actually water the plants. I spray them with a misting bottle daily, and once a week in the shower, which as well is just a mist shower, for barely 5mins. So over-watering em, isn't a big factor. I have gardened, just a first time "Canni" Gardening. Like I said I did just buy a bottle of "Garden Safe" Fungicide... an insecticide/fungi/mit:high-five:icide for flowers...
 
That should do the trick then. The other thing you can do if your pest problem get's really bad or as a preventive measures is to use "HOT SHOT" no pest strips. Last year when the temps began to drop the mites infested my grown room 5 weeks into flowering. I was so bummed out. I had to bomb the room with Pyrethryn bombs and buy 2 or 3 HOT SHOT STRIPS. Luckily I caught it in time that I was able to salvage the crop but it really opened my eyes to how quickly pests can take hold and literally eat your buds to death. Another problem I had a while back were these big ass moths taking huge bites out of my leaves and leaving slime behind like I was attacked by Slimmer from Ghostbusters, I have my grow room in a sealed room now that exhausts air through a carbon filter so pests really are not a problem for me but the chemical they use in those "NO PEST STRIPS" is called Dychlorvos and it works really well at killing pests but it is not exactly safe for humans.
 
Sweet... well I do use fly-strips, if you check the pix I've recently posted, you'd see em in a couple. lol but I appreciate the input. I was actually just planning a transplant into even more organic of a medium. Slow finances, have kinda made this garden a little bit drawn out. this all started because I accidentally germinated a shit-load of seeds, and well instead of wasting em, cause well I was already in the final design stage- of my garden when it happened, I just put em some home made compost medium, and have slowly constructed and upgraded the entire process actually over the past four months... planned on long term vegging the first strand anyways... but long story short, I thank you and gladly welcome any and everything you may have to say on this topic. :wood:
 
MasterLynxx said:
I don't know how to explain the specifics, I Would say it has to do with the resign, which as well, is the remains of the fruit of the same plant.
:tokin:
Click to expand...

Explains why Pilots and Fighter Pilots eat chicken wings before takeoff.

Don't dare ask what you do while sexing the seedlings, lol.
 
Be carefull with the wood ash. I believe it will raise PH to a higher level similar to Lime. Small doses are benificial but check your soil PH now and again.
 
Use wood ash sparingly and know your soil pH. Applications of wood ash will raise soil pH. It's like using agricultural limestone. A three gallon bucket of wood ash is about equal to a 50 lb. bag of limestone. It's quite strong. Be careful. If you pour water through wood ash it makes lye. Lye is very caustic and will burn plant roots just like it can burn your skin.
 
Have started using a cup of hardwood ash in a 5 gallon can of water, epsom salts added to combo at rate of 2 ozs
per pail.....great results on first 2 waterings in sandy loam soils. Pro mix type soiless mixes deplete magn very rapidly,
epsom salt replaces in fast order. Wood ash is ultra high in rapid response potash.

FWIW the epsom salts counter the ash. To get a lye solution you'd have to pour 5 gallons of water thru hundreds of
pounds of ash. Old farmsteads used to have huge cast iron 'potash' cauldrons the size of bathtubs for rendering soap and
making lye for export back to the old world.

Im no expert, but this rapid growth stage is very taxing on nutes, if you see even slight chlorosis in leaf or redening of
stems, fix a batch of bath salts and wood ash to promote flowering.

Another great trick is to work wood ash heavily into soils about 2-3' from plant, allows plant choice of reaching out
via root system for nutes.
 

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