Co2 bag or pad

mrweedco

New Member
Hi guys,

Since I have been having issues with high temps, I have read that one of the alternatives is to use CO2. When looking into solutions I saw these 2 products.

I was looking at these 2 products

GreenPAd: Indoor Garden CO 2 Products | The Green Pad CO 2 Generator
Exhale 365: ExHale 365 | ExHale CO2

Has any one used them to help plants combat heat issues?

I know co2 has many benefits however my main interest here is to help my plants with high upper 80F temps.

Cheers!
 
I personally don't like either of those options but they will be better than not trying.

There are 2 issues with using that type of option.

#1 For CO2 enrichment to really be effective you really have to get it up there...not just a little but a lot. It is hard to do that especially if you are in a small space (like a grow tent) and venting as fast as you can. if you have a good fan venting the grow space rather rapidly you are just wasting it.

#2 You need to remove the CO2 at night. If you are in veg and run 24 hours no problem. but if you are running a dark cycle or are in bloom you have to remove the generator at night. when the lights are out the chemistry in the plant changes and it starts to absorb oxygen and does a totally different process. if you don't remove the generator at night it will stunt growth.


A proper CO2 setup has a separate lung chamber where you recirculate and cool the air. So your vent fan pushes the air into a cooling room and the intake brings it back so the CO2 is not wasted. It also has a controller that will shut off the generator ant night and vent the room to get rid of it or push it all into the cooling chamber and then close that.

Those options will help but just be sure to pull it out at night and place it by the intake so it gets well circulated. Typically you want to place it high as CO2 is heavy and falls but depending on the rom or tent size if you place it high and have a vent fan at the top pulling out the hot air you will just lose it all.


:goodluck:
 
i have a 1000w cool tube its hook up to the inline fan so it sucks the heat right out of the cool tube but the back of the cool tube is open sucking the room out first then passing throw the light and out in the roof

should i cove the back of the cool tube so its just sucking the heat from the light or keep it open to vent the room then the light ill find a pic it will help show what I'm talking about as if i use CO2 I'm thinking all the co2 will just get suck out of the room sorry pic is side ways but see the cool tube the back is open

IMG_56023.JPG
 
i have a 1000w cool tube its hook up to the inline fan so it sucks the heat right out of the cool tube but the back of the cool tube is open sucking the room out first then passing throw the light and out in the roof

should i cove the back of the cool tube so its just sucking the heat from the light or keep it open to vent the room then the light ill find a pic it will help show what I'm talking about as if i use CO2 I'm thinking all the co2 will just get suck out of the room sorry pic is side ways but see the cool tube the back is open

IMG_56023.JPG
Your Temps will likely increase, because you wouldn't be removing much heat from the room it's self, You would also need an AC unit that supply and returns from the space. That way your space stays neutral and your still removing heat from the space.
 
um..I think I do not understand the question.

But this is a real simple concept.

CO2 enrichment only works if the levels get real high. To do that you need a good source and can not be venting the room very much. One way to do that is to use a sealed lighting device like a cool tube or air cooled reflector and have the inlet to the reflectors coming from outside the grow space so it is a separate air system completely. Then you will need to run 2 fans or a y splitter into 2 ducts one running to the reflector one running to a carbon filter but that is a a bad idea. much better to have 2 fans especially in bloom so the light cooling fan is off when the light is off.

ALSO a common mistake I see you have done is not using insulated ducting. By using just normal flex ducting a significant portion of the heat you are trying to remove from the grow space is radiated right back in as that hose is very thin walled and metal so it absorbs the heat and radiates it right back. So what happens is you are reducing the brightness of the bulb by cooling it, reducing the brightness of the bulb having it behind the glass, spending money on electricity to remove the heat and the bulk of the heat is radiated right back in. So your overall yield per watt goes way down. (Especially with that turn in the hose. better to adjust the slack out and make the run as straight as possible.)


But you can get much close like you show because you are effectively running something closer to a 750W setup.

And the glass doesn't stay clean very long reducing the PAR even more.

CO2 is hard to do reasonably in a small space. But a small space is a great place for a cool tube if you can't solve the heat any other way.
 
I personally don't like either of those options but they will be better than not trying.

There are 2 issues with using that type of option.

#1 For CO2 enrichment to really be effective you really have to get it up there...not just a little but a lot. It is hard to do that especially if you are in a small space (like a grow tent) and venting as fast as you can. if you have a good fan venting the grow space rather rapidly you are just wasting it.

#2 You need to remove the CO2 at night. If you are in veg and run 24 hours no problem. but if you are running a dark cycle or are in bloom you have to remove the generator at night. when the lights are out the chemistry in the plant changes and it starts to absorb oxygen and does a totally different process. if you don't remove the generator at night it will stunt growth.


A proper CO2 setup has a separate lung chamber where you recirculate and cool the air. So your vent fan pushes the air into a cooling room and the intake brings it back so the CO2 is not wasted. It also has a controller that will shut off the generator ant night and vent the room to get rid of it or push it all into the cooling chamber and then close that.

Those options will help but just be sure to pull it out at night and place it by the intake so it gets well circulated. Typically you want to place it high as CO2 is heavy and falls but depending on the rom or tent size if you place it high and have a vent fan at the top pulling out the hot air you will just lose it all.


:goodluck:

Thanks for the info man! I have 2 tents that I would like to add CO2. Yes using the co2 at night is a waste, however i did not know it stunned growth. Yikes!

Another Option i have seen is the CO2 boost bucket: All Natural CO2 Generators for the purpose of CO2 enrichment and air fertilization « All Natural CO2 Generators for the purpose of CO2 enrichment and air fertilization All Natural CO2 Generators for the purpose of CO2 enrichment and air fertilization

This is another idea since the bucket is run by an air pump, I can place the bucket outside of both tents and add a T and split the lines and pump CO2 into both tents. ( 1 tent is 2 x 2.5 and the other 3x3 ). I can then direct the co2 directly to the canopy.

Also since it has a pump I can put it on a timer. Problem here is one tent is in flower and the other is in veg ! I guess I can keep it on the 12 hour timer.

This video seems to assure use it works ok and some tips:

The main reason I am looking into co2 is because of current heat issues in one of my 2 tents. I have lowered the temps and water temps a bit however I am still currently testing.

This tent has 2 vents open with no intake fan, so im not sure if CO2 would go to waste. What do you think?

in case you want to check out the tent with problems you follow this link: Heat issues 3x3 with LED and exhaust
 
So there is a lot of science behind this so I would recommend confirming what I am about to say for yourself.

As I recall you need to get the air up to over 900PPM to get a measurable impact in any meaningful way. Now you are not trying to do that you are trying to solve a heat problem so maybe it doesn't matter if it actually works for growth as long as you have enough to help with the heat. But the issue with these mini generators is they really don't pump it enough to get you to 900PPM especially if you are venting the room. And since you are dealing with a heat problem I must assume you have a huge vent fan running and you will never get the PPM high enough.


They key to CO2 is that you need a sealed room. That means you need a good sealed ventilation or air recycling system with a cooling duct. So I just don't think this is going to work for you.


This is a case of trying to solve the problem the wrong way and maybe if you get lucky it might work but I doubt it.


Yeast generation will no way get you there. So option 2 is a waste.

I trust monster gardens and they say it is good for a small tent. If you were running LEDs in a tent and had a long flexy hose to duct out the air into a cooling system and recirculate it back then you may be able to make that work well.

Why is it you can't get your heats down. Are you in like a place like Arizona and not willing to grow indoors with AC? I mean don't tell me where you live just what is the issue that makes it that you can't make a proper setup?
 
So there is a lot of science behind this so I would recommend confirming what I am about to say for yourself.

As I recall you need to get the air up to over 900PPM to get a measurable impact in any meaningful way. Now you are not trying to do that you are trying to solve a heat problem so maybe it doesn't matter if it actually works for growth as long as you have enough to help with the heat. But the issue with these mini generators is they really don't pump it enough to get you to 900PPM especially if you are venting the room. And since you are dealing with a heat problem I must assume you have a huge vent fan running and you will never get the PPM high enough.


They key to CO2 is that you need a sealed room. That means you need a good sealed ventilation or air recycling system with a cooling duct. So I just don't think this is going to work for you.


This is a case of trying to solve the problem the wrong way and maybe if you get lucky it might work but I doubt it.


Yeast generation will no way get you there. So option 2 is a waste.

I trust monster gardens and they say it is good for a small tent. If you were running LEDs in a tent and had a long flexy hose to duct out the air into a cooling system and recirculate it back then you may be able to make that work well.

Why is it you can't get your heats down. Are you in like a place like Arizona and not willing to grow indoors with AC? I mean don't tell me where you live just what is the issue that makes it that you can't make a proper setup?

Hey man cheers for the info, I do have 4 inch fan + carbon filter + silence + 2 intake vents open + 2 recirculating fans in the tent. so yea Co2 will be flying all over the place.

Yes im having heat issues, and temps here range from 70F - 83F so its hard to keep emm down. I did a thread which people helped me a bit. This is tent is 1 of out 2, but this tent holds my second grow, but first grow with problems unfortunately.

Here is the link: Heat issues 3x3 with LED and exhaust

I basically insulted the buckets, took out the air pumps raised my LED and opened 2 side vents in my tent. I also have been adding frozen water bottles to the 5 gallon pots.

I may have to add an AC, I have a buddy that wants to sell a 12,000 portable BTU AC for $200 bucks.

Cheers!
 
I will have to read up later but 83 is not catastrophic. It aint super wonderful but it also aint bad. The plant will deal with that especially if you hang a few wet towels around and run up the humidity.

If you can't keep it out of the upper 80's and low 90's you will have issues but if you run up the humidity you can run up to 84 no prob.

Just keep the air moving and run all hot air through insulated hose out of the grow space. A big problem people make is to not use insulated hose so the venting reflects the heat right back into the grow space. Run insulated hose for all hot lines out of the space for optimal efficiency.

I will check the other thread tomorrow.


:peace:
 
I will have to read up later but 83 is not catastrophic. It aint super wonderful but it also aint bad. The plant will deal with that especially if you hang a few wet towels around and run up the humidity.

If you can't keep it out of the upper 80's and low 90's you will have issues but if you run up the humidity you can run up to 84 no prob.

Just keep the air moving and run all hot air through insulated hose out of the grow space. A big problem people make is to not use insulated hose so the venting reflects the heat right back into the grow space. Run insulated hose for all hot lines out of the space for optimal efficiency.

I will check the other thread tomorrow.

:peace:

Hey man do you have any experience with Humidifiers to lower temps? My veg tent has high heat 79 - 88F ?

Current humidity is at 41 - 53 %

Maybe if I raise the humidity a bit the temps will go down a bit to?

Cheers,
 
The temps wont go down but the plants will be more tolerant.

I always break humidifiers. So instead I do a triple punch. I hang wet towels all over. I fill drip pans with old used grow stones and water as the surface area of the stones aids in rapid evaporation and place them in front of the fan. I also have a fill sized towel in a bucket of water hanging out over the inlet vent so it wicks up water and the incoming air is drying it. That works quite well

rags.JPG



Only real downside is depending you may have to re soak the towels every 4-6 hours. But in general the other stuff works well and you can just keep adding stuff until you hit it right.


If you can keep that above 60% you should be good to go.

:peace:
 
The temps wont go down but the plants will be more tolerant.

I always break humidifiers. So instead I do a triple punch. I hang wet towels all over. I fill drip pans with old used grow stones and water as the surface area of the stones aids in rapid evaporation and place them in front of the fan. I also have a fill sized towel in a bucket of water hanging out over the inlet vent so it wicks up water and the incoming air is drying it. That works quite well

rags.JPG



Only real downside is depending you may have to re soak the towels every 4-6 hours. But in general the other stuff works well and you can just keep adding stuff until you hit it right.


If you can keep that above 60% you should be good to go.

:peace:

Cheers for the info man!

I saw these guys today in the store today : Honeywell CL30XC 63 Pt. Indoor Portable Evaporative Air Cooler with Remote Control

1666925058584.png


I wonder if one of these will cool the air around the intake fan enough to bring the grow tent temps down.

any experience in these?
 
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