SmokeyMacPot
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21.4 Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower
potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds
usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on
growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the
leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This
gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as
chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of
yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The
destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of
them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to
cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in
specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be
adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated
with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists,
or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches
(a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some
chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens
the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more
slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent
mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the
temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of
chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan
installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather
than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air
circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight
curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be
cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container,
such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is
maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive
immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns
a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees,
until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour
develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be
brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature,
out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a
slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles
about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually
incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in
the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that
it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour.
Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while
using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels
absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a
heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and
helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles,
and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about
an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should
be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer
between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach
it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one
to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are
most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot
which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and
float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An
occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried
again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances
(pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure
may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves.
The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.
21.5 Drying
Living marijuana leaves are 80 percent water; colas are about 70 percent water. Marijuana dried for smoking contains
only eight to 10 percent water, or about 10 percent of the original amount. There are several methods used to evaporate
water; these have little effect on potency, but can affect the taste, bouquet, and smoothness of the smoke. Generally,
the slower the dry, the smoother the taste. Excess drying and drying methods that use heat will evaporate some of the
volatile oils that give each grass its unique taste and aroma.
Grasses which are dried as part of the curing process usually have a smooth, mild taste, because of the elimination of
chlorophyll and various proteins. Cured marijuana may also be a little sweeter than when first picked, because the curing
converts some of the plant's starch to simple sugars.
Some grasses are tasty and smooth-smoking when they are dried without curing, especially fresh homegrown buds which
retain their volatile oils and sugar. Many homegrowers have acquired a taste for "natural" uncured grass, with its
minty chlorophyll flavour; such marijuana is dried directly after harvesting. {Figure 89, Male plants drying on a
tree. Cheesecloth holds loose leaf for drying.}
Slow Drying
Slow drying is probably the method most commonly used to dry marijuana. Because of the slowness of the dry, a slight
cure takes place, eliminating the bite sometimes associated with quickly dried grass.
There are many variations of the technique, but most commonly whole plants or separated colas are suspended upside
down from a drawn string or from pegs on a wall in a cool dark room, closet, or other enclosed space. A large number
of plants may take a week or two to dry. The drying time for small numbers of plants can be increased (for a slight cure)
by placing the plants in large, open paper sacks that have ventilation holes cut in their sides. The drying room should
have no heavy drafts, but mould may form on the plants if the air is stagnant. If weather is rainy or the air humid,
increase ventilation and watch for any mould. Plants should be dried quickly under moderate heat if any mould appears.
Many experienced growers prefer slow drying to curing. There is little chance of error with this method, and buds
usually smoke smooth and develop a pliable consistency. Slow-dried ripe buds retain their delicious, sweet aroma
and taste.
Fast Drying
The fast dry-method produces a harsher smoke than slow drying, but it is often the most convenient method to use.
The plants are suspended in the same way as for slow drying, but the temperature in the drying area is increased to
between 90 and 115 degrees, often by means of electric or gas heater. The drying area is kept well-ventilated with a
fan. As the plants dry, they are removed from the drying area. By this method, plants in a tightly packed room can be
dried in less than four days, but the exhaust will contain the deliciously pungent odour of drying marijuana.
Indoor growers often hang plants to dry over radiators or stream pipes. Leaves are dried by placing them on a tray over
a radiator or on top of the light fixture.
Marijuana that is fast-dried retains its original green colour and minty taste.
Oven Drying
Oven drying is often used by gardeners to sample their crop. Small quantities of material can be quickly dried by being
placed in a 150 to 200 oven for about 10 minutes. Larger quantities can be dried in trays that contain a single layer of
material or in a dehydrator. Oven-dried and dehydrator-dried marijuana usually has a harsh taste and bite, and loses
much of its bouquet. The method is often used to dry marijuana which has been cured and dried but is too moist to smoke,
or to dry marijuana which is to be used for cooking or extractions. It is an adequate method for obtaining dry material
for testing and emergencies, but the main harvest should not be dried in this way. Oven drying works best with leaves.
When leaves are dried together with buds or shoots, remove the material from the oven periodically, to separate the
faster-drying leaf material (before it burns) from the slower drying buds. One way to do this is to place all the
material on a wire screen over a tray. Every few minutes rub the material across the screen. Dried material falls unto
the tray and is removed from the oven. Repeat until all the material has dried.
Oven curing works well when closely watched. Dried marijuana that is left in the oven will lose potency quickly. Any time
the marijuana begins to char, most of the potency will already have been lost. This should not be a problem unless you are
careless, or allow the temperature to go above 200 degrees.
Sun Drying
Some growers dry their crops right in the field. There are many methods of sun drying. In Oregon, some growers break the
main stem about two feet from the ground. The leaves and buds dry gradually, since they are still partly attached to the
plant. Other growers spread burlap and cover it with plants left to dry. Fan leaves are left on the plants to protect the
drying buds from the sun. The grass is manicured after drying. Growers in Arizona shade drying plants with cheesecloth.
Sun-dried marijuana usually has a taste similar to that of oven-dried. Often the sun bleaches it slightly but also destroy
some of the delicate bouquet. Prolonged exposure to the sun will decrease potency, although there is no noticeable loss
if drying is done quickly.
Dry Ice
Many homegrowers have written to us that the dry-ice cure increases the potency of marijuana considerably, and we would be
remiss not to mention it.
Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. When it melts (sublimates), it turns from a solid directly into a gas. This gas absorbs
some moisture from the frozen marijuana and partially dries it.
There are many variations of the dry-ice method. Fresh or partially dried material is usually used, although some
enthusiasts claim that the cure also works with dried material. The marijuana is placed in a coffee can or similar
container with a lid, along with at least an equal volume of dry ice. Puncture the lid so that the gas can escape
as it evaporates. Place the can in a freezer to prolong the evaporation process. When the dry ice is gone, the
grass is dried, but still moist.
Some growers claim that simply freezing the grass increases potency. They often freeze fan leaves or other less-potent
material for a couple of months before smoking it. This is said to work only with fresh (wet or dried) grass.
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower
potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.
Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds
usually are not cured.
Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on
growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the
leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This
gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as
chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of
yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The
destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of
them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to
cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in
specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be
adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated
with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists,
or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches
(a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some
chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens
the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more
slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent
mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the
temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of
chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan
installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather
than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air
circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight
curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be
cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container,
such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is
maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive
immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns
a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees,
until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour
develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be
brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature,
out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a
slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles
about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually
incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in
the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that
it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour.
Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while
using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels
absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a
heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and
helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles,
and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about
an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should
be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer
between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach
it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one
to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are
most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot
which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and
float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An
occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried
again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances
(pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure
may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves.
The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.
21.5 Drying
Living marijuana leaves are 80 percent water; colas are about 70 percent water. Marijuana dried for smoking contains
only eight to 10 percent water, or about 10 percent of the original amount. There are several methods used to evaporate
water; these have little effect on potency, but can affect the taste, bouquet, and smoothness of the smoke. Generally,
the slower the dry, the smoother the taste. Excess drying and drying methods that use heat will evaporate some of the
volatile oils that give each grass its unique taste and aroma.
Grasses which are dried as part of the curing process usually have a smooth, mild taste, because of the elimination of
chlorophyll and various proteins. Cured marijuana may also be a little sweeter than when first picked, because the curing
converts some of the plant's starch to simple sugars.
Some grasses are tasty and smooth-smoking when they are dried without curing, especially fresh homegrown buds which
retain their volatile oils and sugar. Many homegrowers have acquired a taste for "natural" uncured grass, with its
minty chlorophyll flavour; such marijuana is dried directly after harvesting. {Figure 89, Male plants drying on a
tree. Cheesecloth holds loose leaf for drying.}
Slow Drying
Slow drying is probably the method most commonly used to dry marijuana. Because of the slowness of the dry, a slight
cure takes place, eliminating the bite sometimes associated with quickly dried grass.
There are many variations of the technique, but most commonly whole plants or separated colas are suspended upside
down from a drawn string or from pegs on a wall in a cool dark room, closet, or other enclosed space. A large number
of plants may take a week or two to dry. The drying time for small numbers of plants can be increased (for a slight cure)
by placing the plants in large, open paper sacks that have ventilation holes cut in their sides. The drying room should
have no heavy drafts, but mould may form on the plants if the air is stagnant. If weather is rainy or the air humid,
increase ventilation and watch for any mould. Plants should be dried quickly under moderate heat if any mould appears.
Many experienced growers prefer slow drying to curing. There is little chance of error with this method, and buds
usually smoke smooth and develop a pliable consistency. Slow-dried ripe buds retain their delicious, sweet aroma
and taste.
Fast Drying
The fast dry-method produces a harsher smoke than slow drying, but it is often the most convenient method to use.
The plants are suspended in the same way as for slow drying, but the temperature in the drying area is increased to
between 90 and 115 degrees, often by means of electric or gas heater. The drying area is kept well-ventilated with a
fan. As the plants dry, they are removed from the drying area. By this method, plants in a tightly packed room can be
dried in less than four days, but the exhaust will contain the deliciously pungent odour of drying marijuana.
Indoor growers often hang plants to dry over radiators or stream pipes. Leaves are dried by placing them on a tray over
a radiator or on top of the light fixture.
Marijuana that is fast-dried retains its original green colour and minty taste.
Oven Drying
Oven drying is often used by gardeners to sample their crop. Small quantities of material can be quickly dried by being
placed in a 150 to 200 oven for about 10 minutes. Larger quantities can be dried in trays that contain a single layer of
material or in a dehydrator. Oven-dried and dehydrator-dried marijuana usually has a harsh taste and bite, and loses
much of its bouquet. The method is often used to dry marijuana which has been cured and dried but is too moist to smoke,
or to dry marijuana which is to be used for cooking or extractions. It is an adequate method for obtaining dry material
for testing and emergencies, but the main harvest should not be dried in this way. Oven drying works best with leaves.
When leaves are dried together with buds or shoots, remove the material from the oven periodically, to separate the
faster-drying leaf material (before it burns) from the slower drying buds. One way to do this is to place all the
material on a wire screen over a tray. Every few minutes rub the material across the screen. Dried material falls unto
the tray and is removed from the oven. Repeat until all the material has dried.
Oven curing works well when closely watched. Dried marijuana that is left in the oven will lose potency quickly. Any time
the marijuana begins to char, most of the potency will already have been lost. This should not be a problem unless you are
careless, or allow the temperature to go above 200 degrees.
Sun Drying
Some growers dry their crops right in the field. There are many methods of sun drying. In Oregon, some growers break the
main stem about two feet from the ground. The leaves and buds dry gradually, since they are still partly attached to the
plant. Other growers spread burlap and cover it with plants left to dry. Fan leaves are left on the plants to protect the
drying buds from the sun. The grass is manicured after drying. Growers in Arizona shade drying plants with cheesecloth.
Sun-dried marijuana usually has a taste similar to that of oven-dried. Often the sun bleaches it slightly but also destroy
some of the delicate bouquet. Prolonged exposure to the sun will decrease potency, although there is no noticeable loss
if drying is done quickly.
Dry Ice
Many homegrowers have written to us that the dry-ice cure increases the potency of marijuana considerably, and we would be
remiss not to mention it.
Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. When it melts (sublimates), it turns from a solid directly into a gas. This gas absorbs
some moisture from the frozen marijuana and partially dries it.
There are many variations of the dry-ice method. Fresh or partially dried material is usually used, although some
enthusiasts claim that the cure also works with dried material. The marijuana is placed in a coffee can or similar
container with a lid, along with at least an equal volume of dry ice. Puncture the lid so that the gas can escape
as it evaporates. Place the can in a freezer to prolong the evaporation process. When the dry ice is gone, the
grass is dried, but still moist.
Some growers claim that simply freezing the grass increases potency. They often freeze fan leaves or other less-potent
material for a couple of months before smoking it. This is said to work only with fresh (wet or dried) grass.
