What color temp to buy? Induction bulb

[SnowBender]

I am going to play with induction lights, and have a decent deal on single kelvin rated bulbs. Not dual spectrum

What Kelvin should i get for flowering? 2200K? or 2700K? 5000K? A mix?

I am wondering if a color temp in the middle, like 5000 might actually have both a blue and red output, that looks like white to the eye, but for more total PAR than a bulb limited to a redder temp?

My (limited) understanding is it the bulbs coating's chemistry that determine the color temp. And that color temp does not necessarily correlate to actual spectrum, but is more of a description of what a light sources varying spectrum's combine to appear in color temp to our eyes.... Since induction is supposed to be "broad spectrum..." does it any make sense that a lower kelvin rated bulb is just lacking more blue and lacking overall PAR, and a high rated kelvin is just lacking the red side...while the one in the middle of the kelvin scale has both ends of the spectrum, and higher PAR?

I am thinking of going with a 400 watt, but maybe I should get some smaller ones of different temps and see whats best???

Also kicking around the idea of mixing in MH or CMH to add in UV that induction apparently lacks...

Thanks-

 

[SnowBender]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

bump for all the 420 hommies on the right coast that might have some input on K temp for induction lights...

 

[SnowBender]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

thanks for all the input 420mags. that clarifies things a lot.

 

[Jacob Bell]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

no one replied to thread? well, i will. the best light spectrum for vegatative growth is 6500K. The best for flowering is 2700K. I use a mix of both during my veg. stage, which is where i am at right now in my novice grow. i use 6 6500k and 2 2700K, cfl. i have a journal going if u want to check out growth.

 

[Hogdady]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

thanks for all the input 420mags. that clarifies things a lot.

I don't know about you, but I prefer provolone with my whine....

 

[SnowBender]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

I put off my purchase till next week, so I could relax this weekend and sit here enjoying my beer and cheez-its.

 

[Hogdady]

Re: What color temp to buy? Induction bulb.

i put off my purchase till next week, so i could relax this weekend and sit here enjoying my beer and cheez-its.

 

[jstepp590]

I am going to play with induction lights, and have a decent deal on single kelvin rated bulbs. Not dual spectrum

What Kelvin should i get for flowering? 2200K? or 2700K? 5000K? A mix?

I am wondering if a color temp in the middle, like 5000 might actually have both a blue and red output, that looks like white to the eye, but for more total PAR than a bulb limited to a redder temp?

My (limited) understanding is it the bulbs coating's chemistry that determine the color temp. And that color temp does not necessarily correlate to actual spectrum, but is more of a description of what a light sources varying spectrum's combine to appear in color temp to our eyes.... Since induction is supposed to be "broad spectrum..." does it any make sense that a lower kelvin rated bulb is just lacking more blue and lacking overall PAR, and a high rated kelvin is just lacking the red side...while the one in the middle of the kelvin scale has both ends of the spectrum, and higher PAR?

I am thinking of going with a 400 watt, but maybe I should get some smaller ones of different temps and see whats best???

Also kicking around the idea of mixing in MH or CMH to add in UV that induction apparently lacks...

Thanks-

2700k. Here is a grow using a 200w in 2700k with The Other Tomato nutes. Just remember that is in the flowering color range, unlike the 5000k range like the purple ones for good vegging.

YouTube - Inductiongrow

Also, here is the only site I found that had both the best price and the best selection of lights to choose from in the higher range. No, I am not affiliated with them.

InductionLamps.com: Remote Ballasted Induction Lamps

Happy Growing!!

 

[SnowBender]

Thanks! I emailed those guys in the link a few months back and they dont sell large wattage's without the fixture, which is what I really want.

I spoke to a manager at a big commercial electrical contractor and he said he just had some growers sepcial order a batch of 2200k 400watt w/o fixtures... Maybe they're on to something...or just daft... I guess im waiting to see what the report is on the 2200's before pulling the trigger.

 

[G-Dog]

The opinions about color temperature have been constant in the community regardless of the bulb type. I am a rebel and veg in 2700 and then flower in 2700 unless I just happen to have something else. Then I veg in something else and flower in something else.

 

[Envirotech]

I am going to play with induction lights, and have a decent deal on single kelvin rated bulbs. Not dual spectrum

What Kelvin should i get for flowering? 2200K? or 2700K? 5000K? A mix?

I am wondering if a color temp in the middle, like 5000 might actually have both a blue and red output, that looks like white to the eye, but for more total PAR than a bulb limited to a redder temp?

My (limited) understanding is it the bulbs coating's chemistry that determine the color temp. And that color temp does not necessarily correlate to actual spectrum, but is more of a description of what a light sources varying spectrum's combine to appear in color temp to our eyes.... Since induction is supposed to be "broad spectrum..." does it any make sense that a lower kelvin rated bulb is just lacking more blue and lacking overall PAR, and a high rated kelvin is just lacking the red side...while the one in the middle of the kelvin scale has both ends of the spectrum, and higher PAR?

I am thinking of going with a 400 watt, but maybe I should get some smaller ones of different temps and see whats best???

Also kicking around the idea of mixing in MH or CMH to add in UV that induction apparently lacks...

Thanks-

Hey everyone,
I'm have offered a loaner light for a test grow on a different thread. I'm looking someone that has good experience to test our new 300 watt 2700K Parmax induction light with enhanced red led supplimental lighting. We only had a few members interested and want to have more options. We are waiting for our led's to arrive to get this light built. Any interested members? Our plan is to build in about 50 watts of three wavelength led right into our fixture. The led's are 630, 660 and 690nM. We came up with this formula after examining our SPD chart and noticed our light was weak in these wavelengths.
The link that jstepp posted is our 2700k light. I think this supplimental led thing will knock this light out of the park!

 

[jstepp590]

Hey everyone,
I'm have offered a loaner light for a test grow on a different thread. I'm looking someone that has good experience to test our new 300 watt 2700K Parmax induction light with enhanced red led supplimental lighting. We only had a few members interested and want to have more options. We are waiting for our led's to arrive to get this light built. Any interested members? Our plan is to build in about 50 watts of three wavelength led right into our fixture. The led's are 630, 660 and 690nM. We came up with this formula after examining our SPD chart and noticed our light was weak in these wavelengths.
The link that jstepp posted is our 2700k light. I think this supplimental led thing will knock this light out of the park!

As near as I can tell the HPS systems are difficient in those wavelengths also and yet they work well. What effect does losing those wavelengths of light do to the grow? The video I listed looked great with the 2700k, so how does it compare with an HPS? Sometimes "The Best and Greatest!!!" is the enemy of good enough, and the light is already expensive enough without adding to it.

I just want something comparable to HPS but without the heat.

 

[Envirotech]

As near as I can tell the HPS systems are difficient in those wavelengths also and yet they work well. What effect does losing those wavelengths of light do to the grow? The video I listed looked great with the 2700k, so how does it compare with an HPS? Sometimes "The Best and Greatest!!!" is the enemy of good enough, and the light is already expensive enough without adding to it.

I just want something comparable to HPS but without the heat.

HPS actually has good red wavelengths upto 660 were it starts to rapidly drop off after 660 and then spikes again at IR Were as 2700K is very difficient at 640 and up so i think this would deffinatly improve flowering substantially. As for cost this light will be still cheaper than most 600 watt LED panels. So having an alternative that actually works is worth looking into deeper in my opinion.if we accept everything as "good enough" we still be riding horses.

 

[jstepp590]

HPS actually has good red wavelengths upto 660 were it starts to rapidly drop off after 660 and then spikes again at IR Were as 2700K is very difficient at 640 and up so i think this would deffinatly improve flowering substantially. As for cost this light will be still cheaper than most 600 watt LED panels. So having an alternative that actually works is worth looking into deeper in my opinion.if we accept everything as "good enough" we still be riding horses.

LOL, that's true! I like horses but I wouldn't want to ride them every day. It's just that making the system better is important but if it works somewhat comparable to hps then I am happy.

I was thinking about this post last night and was wonder why not get a 300w (instead of the 500w I wanted) induction and pair that to a 150w or 250w hps? The difference in price between the 300-500w induction is almost $200, which is enough to pay for the extra hps.

Not too sure what the result in heat would be, but it seems likely to be much less than a 1000w hps and I may get some more spectrum overlap. As for the LED's? I guess I'm just not sold on them at their current power and light. It seems like the more diffuse lighting of the induction compared to the more narrow focus of the led would lead to coverage gaps. Plus every time I see an led grow the plants look different somehow, more straggly looking than an HPS grow.

Seriously though adding the HPS would be nice but I just hoped it would be unnecessary.

 

[Envirotech]

LOL, that's true! I like horses but I wouldn't want to ride them every day. It's just that making the system better is important but if it works somewhat comparable to hps then I am happy.

I was thinking about this post last night and was wonder why not get a 300w (instead of the 500w I wanted) induction and pair that to a 150w or 250w hps? The difference in price between the 300-500w induction is almost $200, which is enough to pay for the extra hps.

Not too sure what the result in heat would be, but it seems likely to be much less than a 1000w hps and I may get some more spectrum overlap. As for the LED's? I guess I'm just not sold on them at their current power and light. It seems like the more diffuse lighting of the induction compared to the more narrow focus of the led would lead to coverage gaps. Plus every time I see an led grow the plants look different somehow, more straggly looking than an HPS grow.

Seriously though adding the HPS would be nice but I just hoped it would be unnecessary.

Hey Jstepp,

How's the saddle sores!! just kinding.
I think that's what is wrong with leds is the lack of available wavelengths. I finnally found a supplier of 690nM which is suppose to be the best wavelength of far red. I think this would be benificial to any grow light source. Your idea of using induction to suppliment hps makes sense too but the heat would be a problem. Exploring new light combonations rather than relying on one type of light to do the job makes more sense to me. All the heated discussion of which light is superior just doesn't make sense when the end goal is the same. I think it's greed that drives it.
Keep an eye out for our test grow with our induction/led light comming soon we have chose a member to do the test.

 

[TorturedSoul]

It just occurred to me that matching the footprint/penetration of your fixture to the LEDs that you're adding to it is important. I have not yet had the chance to use any LEDs for growing, but I've read a little and learned that there are different lenses, 60°, 90°, 120° I believe (there may be others). I guess you'd want them so that they'll provide the same characteristics in regards to their light spread & penetration as the main fixture will have in its expected use.

I guess that's why you guys spend so much time (and probably money) in R&D and testing when you're dealing with something new - and in this case, "marrying" two different technologies together.

Sounds like fun!

 

[jstepp590]

Hey Jstepp,

How's the saddle sores!! just kinding.
I think that's what is wrong with leds is the lack of available wavelengths. I finnally found a supplier of 690nM which is suppose to be the best wavelength of far red. I think this would be benificial to any grow light source. Your idea of using induction to suppliment hps makes sense too but the heat would be a problem. Exploring new light combonations rather than relying on one type of light to do the job makes more sense to me. All the heated discussion of which light is superior just doesn't make sense when the end goal is the same. I think it's greed that drives it.
Keep an eye out for our test grow with our induction/led light comming soon we have chose a member to do the test.

Looking forward to the test grow definitely be there. How much is the addition of leds going to cost, do you know yet? That is going to be a deciding factor as well as light coverage overlap. Little by little the price of led's are going down and the quality is going up so you actually have an advantage there. Personally I am drooling to see the test grow, and I'm desperately hoping you knock it out of the park!!

 

[jstepp590]

It just occurred to me that matching the footprint/penetration of your fixture to the LEDs that you're adding to it is important. I have not yet had the chance to use any LEDs for growing, but I've read a little and learned that there are different lenses, 60°, 90°, 120° I believe (there may be others). I guess you'd want them so that they'll provide the same characteristics in regards to their light spread & penetration as the main fixture will have in its expected use.

I guess that's why you guys spend so much time (and probably money) in R&D and testing when you're dealing with something new - and in this case, "marrying" two different technologies together.

Sounds like fun!

Exactly! A much more well spoken way of what I mentioned earlier. The tight focus led's would cause light coverage overlap issues with the wide light footprint of the induction. A wider focus led is interesting though, didn't think of that!

 

[scamexposer]

SnowBender, If you take a look at the spectural output of a HID HPS bulb there is "in every one I have looked at" a little bit of of blue in the chart. I had a lighting engineer take a 400 watt 2700 kelvin Induction bulb and put it into a testing sphere. There was absolutely no blue at all coming out of it. That is not good. The flowers will not grow outward and develope just kind of curl into themselves. With Induction you do not have to change bulbs. Just get a 4100 kekvin and use it all the way through start to finish.
Could you please tell me where about the guys are trying to get the bulbs from ? I am curious because the guys who just came out with a monster 400 watt Induction light are trying to make everyone believe they are having the bulbs for their fixture specially produced. And they are buying the bulbs for about $85.00 and selling them for about $350.00. I had heard they were going to try to get a 2200 kelvin bulb. Sounds like you ran into there supplier.......Is it in Michigan ? Thank You in advance for any help that you can offer.

 

[offworld]

SnowBender, If you take a look at the spectural output of a HID HPS bulb there is "in every one I have looked at" a little bit of of blue in the chart. I had a lighting engineer take a 400 watt 2700 kelvin Induction bulb and put it into a testing sphere. There was absolutely no blue at all coming out of it. That is not good. The flowers will not grow outward and develope just kind of curl into themselves. With Induction you do not have to change bulbs. Just get a 4100 kekvin and use it all the way through start to finish.
Could you please tell me where about the guys are trying to get the bulbs from ? I am curious because the guys who just came out with a monster 400 watt Induction light are trying to make everyone believe they are having the bulbs for their fixture specially produced. And they are buying the bulbs for about $85.00 and selling them for about $350.00. I had heard they were going to try to get a 2200 kelvin bulb. Sounds like you ran into there supplier.......Is it in Michigan ? Thank You in advance for any help that you can offer.

about induction for flowering. did you find them to work just fine if they were close enough, and did they produce tight buds.
any suggestions on where to get supplemental bandwiths...and are supplemental bandwiths needed.
thanks is advance....from an advanced colorado grower