WhiteWidow Fan Leaves Curling DOWN.

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gmskunk

New Member
Been having this issue for the past 1.5 weeks. Below is a comment from RaceFan on the same issue in another thread...I didn't want to hijack so I started my own...

Racefan said:
What are your temps like in the area? The only time you see a leaf curl is due to stress of some sort. Usually it's a defense mechanism of the plant trying to control transpiration. Heat stress usually causes a tacoing of the leaves in the opposite direction. the leaves fold up and they do so to allow the plant to transpire easier and more effectively. The stomatas (where the plants breaths and transpires from) are on the bottom of the leaves. When they open up they do so to allow more air to enter the stomatas allowing them to transpire more. usually when the leaves fold down like yours are it's in an attempt to conserve moisture. by closing off he stomatas the plant can't sweat (transpire) as much and it keeps things moister that way. but I don't see signs of a plant drying out. Things look good except for the humped leaves. Normally a plant that needs to conserve moisture looks leathery and shows other signs and problems.
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I've got a similar bowing going on with my leaves...humidity too low? The left is NorthernLights, the right (with the downward curling) is WhiteWidow. The WhiteWidow is closest to the fan.
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Here's a link to my journal for details...

WhiteWidow may have another issue as well...
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...I think its more than nute splash.

The downward curling didn't really start until I started foiler feeding the plants... 1/4 strength calmag+liquid seaweed. Please help...this is my second try at growing WhiteWidow...first time was a bust as I couldn't get a handle on the nutes.

Past 2 weeks...
Temps: Low 70F, High 85F
pH: 5.3 to 6.0 (been aiming for 5.4 when making adjustments)

Please help.
 
New growth looks twisted and downward "fold/curl" is moving up the plant.

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starting my flush now. according to the Problems, Pests & Disease Control thread, it could be Nitrogen toxicity (the leaves do look rather dark green), Mg deficiency (issue I had with this strain last grow), and/or Molybdenum deficiency...

Nitrogen Toxicity
Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have "the claw" look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing... mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.
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Mg Def
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell... the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that's not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn't show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolour and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
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Molybdenum
A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look, along with weird or retarded leaf growth. Yellowing of middle leaves can occur as well as twisted younger leaves which will eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble a nitrogen deficiency. A Molybdenum deficiency shows older chlorotic leaves with rolled margins and stunted growth. Looks like a nitrogen deficiency but with the red tips moving inwards to the middle of the leaves. Molybendum deficiency will usually show up in the older to middle aged leaves, then it moves to the young leaves. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient.

Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.0
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my money is on N toxicity...going to flush now for 12 hours and think about this. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
well that looks like you got that quote from my problem so ill chime in with what im going through if you havent read it...same similar problem..im finding that im thinking its a PH issue because i started to notice this really only when i started to use the flowering nutes and it causes a drop in PH (so i recently learned) which could cause a lock out which could cause these problems..either that or maybe the sun or light source in your case is heating up the roots too much??...so bottom line is to check your PH and tell us and we'll work from there...im thinking about amending some lime to the soil to raise the ph back up slowly...
 
yeah, I just switched to flowering nutes (Advanced Nutrition Sensi Bloom A+B) and my pH could be slightly low (5.3-5.8 is the range)...yours is soil though and that calls for higher pH.

Is it possible that flowering nutes (in hydro) do better with a little higher pH?
 
im not sure but i know that my PH levels are way too low for an outdoor soil grow...so im thinking that it could be a PH level thing...i havent done a HYDRO setup yet so i havent really looked into that side of the house as far as what the proper PH level should be...what is the proper PH level for a hydro setup?
 
Past 2 weeks...
Temps: Low 70F, High 85F
pH: 5.3 to 6.0 (been aiming for 5.4 when making adjustments)

previously I was targeting 5.6 pH when making adjustments...which I may start again since there weren't any issues. The only other change I can think of was a change to BLOOM nutes.
 
racking my brain on this one...I decided to check the foliar sprays - 1 water, 1 calmag/seaweed (1/4 strength)

both were over 7.0pH....ARGGGH. I'm nearly certain I pH'd them before bottling. How could the pH rise so much? Oh and there appeared to be some freaking algea in the calmag/seewead spray. Just fucking lovely...

tossed both and am going to complete the flush and reload the girl with some nutes around 500ppm.

FUCK.
 
so what you were spraying was too high and you were directly spraying them..ouch sounds like that could be it...hope your able to get this fixed..
 
yeah...i hope that's it as well. I had issues (Mg def) with WhiteWidow last grow and thought adding the CalMag to the mix would allow for solid results...

time will tell.
 
WW2 is still hanging in there...pic from yesterday (day 9 of flowering)
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Also, received a PM from another user about having the same problem and wondering if I have resolved it yet...here was my response.


i think i have the same proble as what your's did, what fixed it for you?
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not fixed yet. research has led me to believe that its either 1 or a combination of the following...

1. overfeeding. During the Veg cycle, I ramped the nutes up to 600ppm by week4. Then when I switched over to flowering, I continued the climb, and added flower nutes at 650-700 ppm...when you are supposed to back it up a bit. I should have added flower nutes around 350-400ppm and ramped from there. I have since backed the nutes up to 450-500 ppm and am using a combo of flowering and veg nutes.


2. nitrogen toxicity. the problem leaves are dark green and look identical to the description in the Problem Pictorial thread for N-toxicity. I may have just pushed the limits of Nitrogen with the addition of CalMag.

I use R/O water and had Calcium/magnessium deficiencies in my WhiteWidow last cycle, so this time I decided to add a bit of CalMag to the nutes (1-1.25 tsp / gallon). I just realized that the CalMag is 2-0-0 (NPK) so added an extra bump of Nitrogen to the solution. I've since cut the use of CalMag in half and added a tiny tiny amount of epsom salt (magnessium supplement w/out the nitrogen).

Hopefully I will start to see some improvement. The new growth still looks "ok". some of it is a bit curled, but that's because the plants grew too close to the lights over the weekend.
 
Ummm well this thread is old I HATE threads that lead to no resolution lol. If u were growing in soil, 5.4 as a ph is wayyyyyyyy too acidic(low)!!! As mentioned above a 5.4ph is catering to a hydro setup. That does look like nut burn and the curled/crooked leaves could be a deficiency of certain nutrients due to the low ph and nutrient uptake.
 
hello i,m also having this problem and as we all know there are lots and lots of various solutions i,ve spent all day combing the net and all things being equal, my opinion is too much nitrogen your pics are showing identical symptoms as my girls i believe as i,m growing in soil (which has nutes already) i need to flush and dial back the nutes any advice on how to properly flush would be greatly received. she,s a 5 wk old kandy kush auto and other than the curling happy and healthy:Namaste:
 
you dont have enough air in your dwc... add another air stone, or drop water temp. the burn is most likely coming from ph fluctuations or a lack of phos...
 

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