I've heard someone mention this on this site before and there's a few posts about it. BUT none this straightforward, this fast, with graphs and pictures to get the point accross.
I just tripped over this on another site.
*MIND BLOWN*
(credit to *BlackSail* @ autoflowernet)
Flower Initiation
For photoperiods, flowering is triggered by a pigment called phytochrome. It has an active state(Pfr) and an inactive state(Pr). In the dark it takes about two hours for all the phytochrome to switch from its active form (Pfr) to its inactive form (Pr). When it all stays inactive (Pr) for 10 to 12 hours every night the plant goes into flower.
If you give the plant 730nm far red for 15 minutes after lights out, all the phyotochrome switches to its inactive state in 15 minutes instead of two hours, effectively lengthening your dark period and speeding up the flowering process. This shit really works! Especially during the stretch phase, photoperiod plants will go through this phase in 1 week instead of 2. Since the dark cycle doesn't effect flowering for autos you probably won't get the same results.
If you want to try flower initiation you can get a 7 Watt (you don't need much!) growmau5 far red puck for less than $40 at Rapid LED, it's plug & play and it'll cover a 3'x3'.
The Emerson Effect
Photosynthesis is a two step process. Chlorophyll A absorbs ~660nm red light into an electron, does its thing, then passes the electron off to Chlorophyll B. Chlorophyll B absorbs ~730nm far red light into the same electron, then finishes off the cycle:
Emerson figured out that since the two systems work together, when you give the plant 660nm + 730nm together you get almost twice the results!
3000K 90CRI
Higher CRI comes at a cost in efficiency, but it shifts the light more towards the red end of the spectrum. So, in the case of 3000K you might get more growth from the increased red even though the total amount of light is a little bit lower. 80 CRI is usually your best bet, but for 3000K the difference in far red between 80 CRI and 90 CRI is pretty huge:
As you get below 3000K you lose efficiency and barely get any gain in far red, so 3000K is the lowest Kelvin I'd go for. 3000K 80CRI is a great flowering light, but if you want that extra far red go for some 3000K 90CRI. Mixed 50/50 with 3500K 80CRI either one will rock out.
Happy growing!:vibe:
I just tripped over this on another site.
*MIND BLOWN*
(credit to *BlackSail* @ autoflowernet)
Flower Initiation
For photoperiods, flowering is triggered by a pigment called phytochrome. It has an active state(Pfr) and an inactive state(Pr). In the dark it takes about two hours for all the phytochrome to switch from its active form (Pfr) to its inactive form (Pr). When it all stays inactive (Pr) for 10 to 12 hours every night the plant goes into flower.
If you give the plant 730nm far red for 15 minutes after lights out, all the phyotochrome switches to its inactive state in 15 minutes instead of two hours, effectively lengthening your dark period and speeding up the flowering process. This shit really works! Especially during the stretch phase, photoperiod plants will go through this phase in 1 week instead of 2. Since the dark cycle doesn't effect flowering for autos you probably won't get the same results.
If you want to try flower initiation you can get a 7 Watt (you don't need much!) growmau5 far red puck for less than $40 at Rapid LED, it's plug & play and it'll cover a 3'x3'.
The Emerson Effect
Photosynthesis is a two step process. Chlorophyll A absorbs ~660nm red light into an electron, does its thing, then passes the electron off to Chlorophyll B. Chlorophyll B absorbs ~730nm far red light into the same electron, then finishes off the cycle:
Emerson figured out that since the two systems work together, when you give the plant 660nm + 730nm together you get almost twice the results!
3000K 90CRI
Higher CRI comes at a cost in efficiency, but it shifts the light more towards the red end of the spectrum. So, in the case of 3000K you might get more growth from the increased red even though the total amount of light is a little bit lower. 80 CRI is usually your best bet, but for 3000K the difference in far red between 80 CRI and 90 CRI is pretty huge:
As you get below 3000K you lose efficiency and barely get any gain in far red, so 3000K is the lowest Kelvin I'd go for. 3000K 80CRI is a great flowering light, but if you want that extra far red go for some 3000K 90CRI. Mixed 50/50 with 3500K 80CRI either one will rock out.
Happy growing!:vibe:
